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1985 2001 help

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51532
Printed Date: November-30-2024 at 11:22am


Topic: 1985 2001 help
Posted By: captian kilroy
Subject: 1985 2001 help
Date Posted: April-14-2024 at 7:04pm
I bought this boat for literally nothing the guy was using it to catfish in the river. The hull and underside components are in great shape. I cannot believe he was running the river and never hit anything. Anyway the motor has a couple burnt valves but runs. So my engine builder is taking care of that. There is no bilge pump in the boat. I got that figured out. The blower is on top of the fuel tank and no hoses run anywhere. Where is the blower supposed to be and how are the hoses supposed to run. I had a glastron before and understand where they should go. but not sure on a 2001 exactly how they are supposed to be run to be correct. The floor and stringers were done by the owner before last. I couldn't beflieve he had his family out with no bilge pump and no blower. Just lucky I guess



Replies:
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-14-2024 at 10:17pm
The suction side of the blower had two ducts that go down the transom by the pitot balancers to near the bottom of the hull, which draws air from under the motor.
The exhaust side hooks into the rear vent on the transom top side.


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-14-2024 at 10:30pm
ok so the blower is mounted over the fuel tank? Did it have a y split to get two ducts down the floor to the engine compartment?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-15-2024 at 6:10am
Here's a picture of somebody's 85 blower and hose arrangement without the gas tank in the way

https://ibb.co/6FYx8Gx" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: April-15-2024 at 3:57pm
The hose on the left in Ken's picture above is not connected to the blower - it terminates at the vent box. So only one of the vent hoses is connected to the blower.

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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-15-2024 at 9:41pm
awesome thanks. This thing is a mess. I want to get it right.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-16-2024 at 7:27am
You didn't ask about the front ventilation hoses that take air from the front scoop and direct it to the bilge, but your ventilation system takes that fresh air in from the front and it goes to the bilge area.

Then the blower sucks it out discharging to the rear vent box 

At higher speeds when you probably have the blower turned off, the other hose lets air flow through the bilge and out the back.

Nothing says your blower needs to physically be up above the gas tank, later years and different models had them in different locations, but the flowpath is still the same....fresh air into the bilge and then out the back with an assist from the blower when needed Wink




Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-17-2024 at 4:19pm
Yes I have to redo all of the hoses. I am assuming the bilge pumps out the hole in front of the drivers cockpit.   Do you guys run a manual bilge or an automatic bilge pump?


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-18-2024 at 11:03am
My 1995 SN Blower mounts on the driver side of the engine down by the starter.  Works fine and the blower sound is muted by the engine cover.  


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-18-2024 at 5:14pm
Yes, the newer boats have addressed the potentially dangerous gas fume buildup by adding more hoses and blowers. 
I updated my '82 (same as your '85) with an additional blower under engine box and a long hose exhausting out the rear deck vents.

Can't be too safe...


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1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-18-2024 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by captian kilroy captian kilroy wrote:

Yes I have to redo all of the hoses. I am assuming the bilge pumps out the hole in front of the drivers cockpit.   Do you guys run a manual bilge or an automatic bilge pump?

Good assumption on the discharge hole location

Probably the best way to answer your bilge pump question would be to say that every CC built since the mid 80's including yours came with an automatic bilge pump with a manual override switch or some fancy electronic circuitry..

There have been numerous different pumps, but they all had an automatic feature


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-18-2024 at 7:47pm
How hard should it be to turn the prop shaft with the tranny out and the packing nut backed all the way off?


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-19-2024 at 3:12am
You can back the packing nut off but the actual packing will not loosen, if you over torque it on install it must be replaced.  At least in my experience having done that.   You should be able to grab your prop with one hand and move it.  It is designed to be water lubricated so wet the strut bushing to feel a decent test.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-19-2024 at 6:50am
Originally posted by captian kilroy captian kilroy wrote:

How hard should it be to turn the prop shaft with the tranny out and the packing nut backed all the way off?

What are you trying to figure out by doing this with the transmission out and not supporting the front  end of the shaft?




Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-19-2024 at 8:42am
I was pulling the motor and tranny and couldn't turn the shaft to turn to take the bolts out of the hub. But I have been doing as much study on these boats as I can. And the boat is a basket case and has been out of the water since november. I didn't realize the bearing had rubber in it. So i will spray some water on it and see if it slides and turns.


Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-19-2024 at 12:29pm
To Kens point, with the engine and tranny our you have 2 foot of prop shaft unsupported hanging in front of the shaft log.   Hanging down like that will also add drag to your attempt to spin the shaft.
I have cut a small piece of 2x4 and put a v on the top and used to support the shaft, helps when trying to dial in your Happy Place where the shaft spins most freely before you line up the engine and trans to match.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-19-2024 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by captian kilroy captian kilroy wrote:

I was pulling the motor and tranny and couldn't turn the shaft to turn to take the bolts out of the hub.

And also to Ken's point Wink..........it sounds like you were turning from inside the boat with the transmission hooked up and if you couldn't turn it, you have some issues with alignment. It turns harder from inside grabbing the coupling than it will from outside using the prop for leverage but it still turns.

Right now, wetting the strut bearing won't tell you a whole lot in the condition things are in

And also..........no engine or transmission in the boat, now is the time to pull the shaft and check it for straightness and check or replace the cutlass bearing and check the straightness of the strut also.

You pull the prop off and grab the coupling and pull the shaft into the boat while nothing is in the way and put it back in before putting the engine and transmission in.

The alternative (removing the coupling and pulling the shaft out from below) is not much fun at all since you have an interference fit coupling if things are original.

The installation from below is even less fun when installing the coupling. It's so much less fun that it doesn't qualify as fun at all Wink


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-27-2024 at 6:17pm
Can you put dishwashing liquid on the cutlass bearing? It has been out of the water for nearly a year. If you force it to turn by using your hands on the prop is sounds like dry rubber. I put water on it but it seems like is it just too tight.


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: April-27-2024 at 6:19pm
Does anyone know where to find the plastic pieces that go into your vent hose at the rear vent. The black part of the plastic is fine. The white part that goes inside has completely deteriorated?     And by the way thanks to everyone for the help.


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-27-2024 at 6:22pm
Heck, spray it with WD-40
Sounds like it needs replacement anyway...

But, as you say,  it was still connected to the trans, and you were trying to rotate it to access the flange bolts, there may something else amiss...


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1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"

'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"


Posted By: captian kilroy
Date Posted: May-05-2024 at 9:30pm
Well found out why I couldn't turn it by hand. The strut is ben all to hell. So now I am taking the shaft, prop and strut to the prop shop and go from there. I appreciate all the advice. My engine builder is building a sweet little power plant for this ride. I will post some pics of a before and after. This has been a real interesting project.



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