Please help me and my issue!!😡
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51676
Printed Date: January-15-2025 at 6:51am
Topic: Please help me and my issue!!😡
Posted By: srbranum
Subject: Please help me and my issue!!😡
Date Posted: July-06-2024 at 10:45pm
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Hello group. This may be long but I need y’all’s help. I have been without my boat for three summers because of a carburetor/vapor lock/actuator or some other issue. Here is the problem. Engine is a stock 225 OMC 307 engine with a quadrajet carburetor. 903 original hours. 1975 Cc Skier. The problem is I start it, run a few miles, runs great, slow down going under bridge, start to speed up and the engine shuts off just like I pulled the kill switch. Start it again, let it idle, slowly put it in gear and bam the engine dies. Repeat this two or three times then look for a tow back to the ramp. New parts attempting to fix it: -fuel pump -condensor -new coil -new coil to distributor wire -new plugs -rebuilt carburetor -new fuel filter What I have been told are the possible issues: -Vapor lock -Accelerator pump not functioning -get rid of the quadrajet and buy a Edelbrock 1409 marine carburetor per Woody at White Lake Marine -if the issue is vapor lock, add another blower motor to vent hot air from under the engine cover -wrap the fuel line from the filter to the carburetor in heat resistant tape or simply eliminate the stainless fuel line and go with a fuel hose -I lined the underside of the engine cover with heat shielding insulating tape to keep the heat from discoloring my newly refinished engine cover. Maybe the tape is now keeping all the heat enclosed and causing the gas to boil in excess and thus a vapor lock -the gas made for vehicles today is different that 50 years ago and is not suitable for the quadrajet I would be extremely grateful for all your expertise in helping me solve this disappointing situation I’m in. I’ve owned the boat for 35 years and it’s stunning on the water but I can’t use it as it is and I am tired of knowing I will most likely be towed in again trying to find the problem. Thank you. Scott Branum ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Replies:
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-07-2024 at 3:22am
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I am thinking your fuel supply. may be blocked or plugged. Maybe at the sock in the tank if it has a sock is plugged. Sock problems or Filter if you wish sometimes can be caused by dirt in the bottom of your tank. Start the engine and the dirt or junk in the tank is sucked to the sock/filter, drive a little and it plugs completely. Let is sit a while and the stuff floats away till you start it and try to drive when it does it again. Maybe your vent for the tank is plugged creating a vacuum as you run the engine and shuts off your fuel supply. There is a simple vent hose on the gas tanks. Find the vent at the rear of the boat and trace the vent hose from the vent to the tank, verify it is not kinked or plugged somehow blocking your vent.
I don't know about the 1975 but later models all have a check valve on the gas tank to keep gas from spilling should your boat tip over. Anti Siphon Valve. These can stick and cut off your fuel supply. They are mounted at the tank. You are running it a few miles before the issue starts. Next time try loosening your gas cap to release any vacuum. If there is not vacuum at the time of failure you ruled a vent issue out. If opening the gas cap releases vacuum you can fire it up and drive a few more miles and repeat. If you are convinced you have vapor lock remove your spark arrestor and pump your throttle while this is happening. If you see the normal squirt of fuel your bowls have fuel in them and not vapor. If no fuel it could be a supply issue as mentioned above. Fuel pressure from your new pump can be verified to rule out fuel supply issues. Set up an alternate fuel supply to the carb and route your fuel supply line into at least a 2 gallon gas jug. Firing up the engine should move a gallon into your jug pretty quick. Should pump about 1/2 gallon in less than one minute. Stock pump figure 25-30 gallons per hour but at idle it will be a little less. Run it and watch for your fuel supply to continue or cut out. Obviously be careful, take all fire precautions and do not spill the gas you pump. I ran for 20 years with a Rochester 4 barrel on our 350 engine in a Malibu we had zero issues, only put 780 hours on it in 20 years but never had an issue. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2024 at 6:45am
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What happens if instead of slowing down to go under the bridge, you just turn and go back where you started, without slowing down and do a few laps like that? Or in other words does it run good the whole time till you eventually decide to slow down or will it quit while running at speed? This issue must have existed before your rewiring job? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-07-2024 at 7:35am
Here's a little light reading in the link below, that'll tell you that the Anti siphon valve has nothing to do with tipped over boats.  Around page 93 of the manual is a good place to start, but the whole thing is full of good info. http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf" rel="nofollow - link
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MrMcD wrote:Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-07-2024 at 1:53pm
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Hi MrMcd, First, thank you for the lengthy response. I appreciate your time in doing so. Paragraph 1: I forgot to mention I had drained the tank before, used real non ethanol gas, and even replaced the fuel pickup device. I did not see anything on the screen or looking in the tank. I hope I installed it correctly but I’m questioning my installation. The gage bounces all over the place while riding around. Paragraph 2: The vent line is only about 2ft from the time of the tank to the outside of the boat on the transom Paragraph 3: Not sure. I can check Paragraph 4: I don’t think this is an issue Paragraph 5: Here is something I forgot to mention. When my boat last failed me before being towed in, the fuel filter was FULL which only left the short distance for fuel to travel in that stainless steel line entering the carburetor. Paragraph 6: The fuel pump is brand new and I know it fills the clear Fram fuel filter ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-07-2024 at 1:58pm
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I haven’t recently done a complete wiring job. I obtained a wiring diagram and checked different gauge requirements from when I did rewire the boat haphazardly about 13 years ago And no it quit after running a few miles in the past. Thank you for replying👍 ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-11-2024 at 6:29am
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Any chance to check your antisiphon valve yet. (paragraph 3) ? When it quits and you restart it, what do you have to do, crank it a while before it starts (like you're filling up an empty carburetor) or just turn the key and it starts right up and idles till you try to put it in gear and give it some gas?
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Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-11-2024 at 9:47am
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Yes it’s like your second i ok paragraph. It starts easy BUT any forward motion to put it in gear immediately kills the engine. ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-11-2024 at 9:49am
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And like I mentioned initially, the fram fuel filter one foot from the carb is full ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-12-2024 at 10:07am
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Still kinda thinking about it, but it sure seems electrical in nature. It must be points ignition since you replaced a condenser. Did the points get replaced too? The ballast resistor for the coil usually either works or doesn't work but they're cheap. They usually work and if the resistance winding breaks the boat won't run. What was the new coil that you installed? Brand and part number if you know I've had coils that worked fine for a little while then did what you're experiencing
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Posted By: srbranum
Date Posted: July-12-2024 at 11:27am
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It could be electrical. I have the wiring diagrams but it ran forever the way it is now so I don’t know. Yes it has points. Ran very little since last replaced. Runs like it was brand new for 45 mins and idles as good as it can get. Condenser replaced recently because I was told to try it. Coil to distributor wire replaced because there was resistance and the coil end filled with coil lubricant when the coil blew up. Replaced the coil as well. Balist resistor replaced recently. I don’t know the brand and part number for the coil. Bought it at a parts store. I will say it used to get SUPER HOT for whatever reason and I think it exploded and thus the reason for fluid in the distributor wire cap. This whole thing is so frustrating that for the first time in 35 years of owning this boat I wish I didn’t have it anymore even knowing that when it’s right, there’s nothing I like better ------------- I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one |
Posted By: uncle-buck
Date Posted: September-29-2024 at 12:08pm
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srbranum, your boat's symptoms are very similar to those of my 1990 SN a few years ago. Replaced the anti-siphon valve, fuel pump, fuel line, plugs, and coil (which was also getting super hot). The issue turned out to be a faulty electronic module in the distributor and low voltage in the ignition system. Purchased a new (old stock) Prestolite distributor on eBay for $100 and fixed the low voltage issue by cleaning some contacts and connections. Boat ran well, but I decided to upgrade to a D.U.i. Boat then ran better than ever and still does. Well worth the $400 spent. I don't know what's up with your boat, but suspect that Keno is correct and it is an electrical issue. Good luck with it. P.S. You may want to check with Skidim and make sure you are using the correct coil for your application. ------------- 1990 Ski Nautique (original owner) PCM 351W with D.U.I. |