POURABLE STRINGERS "a no brainer"
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5211
Printed Date: November-22-2024 at 9:11pm
Topic: POURABLE STRINGERS "a no brainer"
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Subject: POURABLE STRINGERS "a no brainer"
Date Posted: November-13-2006 at 7:44pm
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This is so incredible it should be criminal.
A CERAMIC POURABLE COMPOUND #6011. Made by ARJAY PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS. This company is local to me . www.arjaytech.com The procedure is so simple it is ridiculous. A) Take measurements of your stringers and especially motor mount positioning (Height is critical) B) Cut just the tops off the stringers (just the gla$$ tops). C) Peel out and remove the old wood stringers (They should come out like Butta!) D) Clean out stringer spaces then scuff with sand paper. E) Mix and pour compound #6011 and let it kick. F) Re-gla$$ the caps and your DONE! ------------- hasbeenskier |
Replies:
Posted By: Shortline
Date Posted: November-13-2006 at 8:31pm
Sounds like the boys at the lumber store might want to press charges. How much money does it take to create your own ceramic stringers? Will a ceramic hold up to long term vibration? Is this something that is already being used in modern boat manufacturing? ------------- It wouldn't be that hard if the balls weren't so far apart and the boat wasn't going so damn fast! |
hasbeenskier wrote:Posted By: huffy420
Date Posted: November-13-2006 at 9:44pm
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I'd like to think it would be that easy, but nothing is that easy! I would be intersted in knowing how long they've been using it in stringer applications? I would also like to hear from some people who have this product in there boat. The websight makes it sound like its fairly new application for boats.
huff |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 7:29am
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Quote: I've had a vision and the whole world is wearing bifocals.
Butch Ca$$idy ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 7:36am
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we use to what's called chalk in engine mounts and transmission mounts, you would build a dam around the area you needed chalked and mix this stuff up and pour it in, this stuff held up v-12 Catarpillers, it was space age and it worked, maybe it's the same stuff ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 11:04am
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2 & 3 part ceramic systems are for high heat.
Are not as strong as epoxie's in shear or peel and don't stand up well to wet enviroments. |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 12:03pm
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Has anyone ever had old stingers come out "like butta?" Isn't it more like trying to get a plastic straw out of the spark plug whole or out of the wrong hole in the transmision? ------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 12:22pm
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west systems;two part epoxy.If there is enough meat that the wood will not remove easily,thought to consider.drill holes in the top of stringer,drill to find where the rot starts and stops.then a series of 1/2" holes along the top of stringer,Coleman lantern funnel needed tool,pour full and wait for it to Kick.Shop vac fist to remove as much water and debris first.I know this stuff will stand up to the rigors stress and flex. Have used this method before to repair the area around engine mounts, lag screws loose,still tite after 5 years.......... boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 12:35pm
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Lets see? Boat builders are using the stuff to build TRANSOMS on new boats I'll go with their judgement. ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 1:26pm
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Hasbeenskier,
Have you taken out a stringer like you posted above? I have never tried, but I can't imagine that they would come out that easy unless they are completely rotten. Do you know what boat builders use this method for their transoms? Looks like it might be a product to explore, but I'm not converted yet. ------------- Greg http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 2:38pm
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''ARJAY formulates its Ceramic Pourable Compound with premium polyester resins and high strength ceramic spheres ''
The ceramic sphere matrix add volume and crush resistance to the polyester resin but polyester resin is not epoxy resin. Epoxy resin and mill fiber or chopped gla$$ is a better choice ;IF, someone was going to try this. |
Posted By: Shortline
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 5:23pm
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Boat Dr,
Using the method of drilling a series of holes on top of the stringer and filling them with a West System Epoxy, I have two questions: o What is the spacing for the holes on top of the stringer, ie...every two inches? o Do you thin the epoxy to fascilitate absorption into the wood? ------------- It wouldn't be that hard if the balls weren't so far apart and the boat wasn't going so damn fast! |
Posted By: skidawg635
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 5:35pm
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I've been looking into this stuff for a while, for both my stringers and floor boards:
http://transomrepair.com/zk/index.shtml - SEACAST I think someone on this site mentioned this company a while back and it's been talked about on other forums as well. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 6:07pm
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Shortline,2" would be about what i would use , more to find out where the good is and the bad ain't.the West System is fairly "thin" and flows real well.pour slowly, use of Coleman funnel helps greatly,allowing air out as epoxy goes in.
there is already a form in place,just try to remove as much rotten wood and moisture as possible. ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 8:55pm
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I here of guys pouring epoxies down into thier rotted transoms..... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 8:03am
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IF you sold your boat would you tell the buyer
the stringers were rotted & repaired ? Or would you buy a boat with the stringers repaired like this. I would like to know the stingers were replaced ! I'd be OK with the job done right. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 8:21am
Yes I would tell them they were rotted and replaced so they know they are getting a structurally sound trouble free boat. I would have to do some research on the epoxy systems for stringers before I would do it that way but my thoughts would be that it would be an acceptable if not better design than the original wood stringers. If the repair is performed correctly it will never need to be done again which is more than can be said for the original wood. There would certainly be no more rot or water absorbtion issues ever. I also think the epoxy repair would add more value to the boat than a wood stringer replacement. Atleast thats how I would market the boat. For clarity on the issue I am refering to FULL stringer replacement not patching with either material. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 8:33am
That works Doc and has been done by many but it's just a bandaid. I'd be pissed if I got suckered into buying a boat that was patched and was not told by the seller. I looked at a Nautique for sale last year and he did tell me he had patched his stringers like that. He repaired the motor mount area and the screws would not budge but I yanked on the pylon and it broke free and moved about 3 inches. The guy swore he didn't know the rest of the stringers were falling apart. This was a boat that was advertised for $5500 and needed a couple thousand dollars worth of repairs. The buyer of that boat is going to be in for a surprise. Not to mention when he started it up it rapped like hell til the oil pressure came up. Got back in the car as fast as I could, found my current boat the very next day. ------------- You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 9:38am
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Hey just a thought. I have heard everyone talk about taking key motormount measurements before cutting stringers away to help find the right locations again.
Idea: Why not cut the stringer tops off except the motormount areas? This way they are not moved in the slightest. It could be done for just a epoxy repair or the full pourable cast material replacement. Just dig the wood out from under the left behind motor mount stringer top with an auger bit and chistles and fill the material up to the original level. Drill new holes for mounts through the old ones. Done! NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: Shortline
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 6:01pm
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I am so confused. When this string started I was ready to go out and buy some ceramic compound and pour new stringers. Then I decided to just drill, fill, and patch the stringers. Now I am thinking I will completely replace the stringers. Good thing there aren't any other options, I would be totally lost. ------------- It wouldn't be that hard if the balls weren't so far apart and the boat wasn't going so damn fast! |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 7:15pm
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I am pleased to see this post take on the life it has and if nothing else it has prompted thought and conversation. I am a strong advocate of doing something right, in hopes it never has to be done again. Additionally, I do seek the insight of industry professionals. Regardless of ones method, wood, foam, epoxy or a ceramic compound. It just goes to illustrate there is more than one way to hang a roll of toilet paper. Having been down the laborious road of stringer replacement and with more boats to do I want to utilize the best methods the industry has to offer. I am working on a 1974 C.C. Tobago with the stringers out, (okay it wasn't exactly like butta but close) and the plan is to go with the Arjay. ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: skicat
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 8:01pm
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Make sure you take some pictures of the Arjay process & let us know how it goes. Good Luck! ------------- Greg http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2427&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - 86 BFN |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: November-15-2006 at 11:02pm
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hasbeen, keep us posted on your progress on that Tobago. We like pics too! ------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport |
Posted By: skidawg635
Date Posted: November-16-2006 at 6:28pm
| Does anyone have any input on http://www.http://transomrepair.com/zk/index.shtml.com - SEACAST or is the Arjay process the way to go? |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-17-2006 at 7:54am
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Skidawg-
I just finished pouring Seacast stringer material into my 78'SN. The process is quite straight forward and I love the results. It was somewhat costly for the material but you only do it once and... IT WON'T ROT! EVER!!!! Sounds like you are well into it but I will be detailed for those who may be embarking on this repair. 1st thing to check out is to make sure the boat is well positioned on the trailer. If it is not centered or well supported before removing and pouring the new stringers you may introduce some oil canning into the hull. I went a step further and only removed one of the main stringers' wood @ a time. I chistled out the wood in the morning then poured it in the afternoon and left the garage for the night. The stuff has one strong odor and I wanted to let it cure without my weight/ movement in the boat. Before pouring the new Seacast and removing the wood I found I had to fix some of CC's work first. CC seemed to cut a few corners and there was quite a few voids to fill on the stringer sidewalls. After the fibergla$$ repairs were cured I sanded any proud surfaces flush with the wood top. The next thing I did was carefully cut the original fibergla$$ tops out. Using a dremel and a 1/8" milling bit I cut the very top of the fibergla$$ just inside the tangency of the radiused corners. This left me a top refference point to fill to and it kept that original rounded look. I also left the top on the gla$$ @ the four motor mount spots for that no fuss motor re-install. The wood acually came out relatively easily by using a 6" x 3/4" auger bit and chistles. I drilled straight down to the hull every 6" to 8" (being carefull not to blow through the sidewalls of the fibergla$$ shell). Then I used a chistle on the endgrain to pop out 1/2" tall x 6' to 8" chunks of wood. Before removing the wood In the back end of the secondary stringers I had to do another prep step. There was a spot where the 3/4" wood was doubled up with a foamed center island. The inside of the foam cavity was too tight to fibergla$$. For this area I removed the old wet foam, let dry and then repoured new 2Lb US Composites closed cell urethane foam. I trimmed the top to match the stringer after curing then carfully removed the wood around the foam island. This foam island was now part of the stringer mold form and did not change the stiffness/weight in these areas. Before pouring the Seacast, extra drainage holes were also added to the secondary/ main stringers. I did this by cutting holes throught the now hollow gla$$ skins and inserted a waxed medium size rubber hose. Then after Seacast pouring/ curing I removed the hoses. The pours were pretty straight forward and I found a small masonry trowl handy in getting the material where I wanted it. I over filled the tops just slightly then sanded flush when curred. Another material which I am using is KOMA board. It is a solid 3/4" PVC material available from good lumber yards. This is a home building product for exterior trim. It cuts and shapes like wood but will not rot. This is what I am replaceing the the cross members with. It's also great because it does not require gla$$ing. Just epoxy and stainless screw it to the stringers. Where it needs to be doubled up just glue two peices together with PVC cement. It's nice stuff! This is were I am @ now. I still plan to regla$$ the stinger tops and coat the inside of the hull with West System epoxy to insure no hydrolysis starts. I will then refill the correct cavities with the 2lb foam and reinstall the old gla$$ floor. Overall I found the Seacast great to work with, just wear rubber gloves and a good respirator. I think it is going to really pay off during the rebuild. With this process no dimentions or locations have been changed and the boat should just fall back together. It is also going to be nice to screw everything back on and never hit a soft spot of wood ever again. NICE!!!!! Over and Out and good luck with yours- NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-17-2006 at 9:10am
| How are the motor & trans mount lag bolts installed ? |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: November-17-2006 at 5:52pm
How many gallons of material were required to pour all of your stringers? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: huffy420
Date Posted: November-17-2006 at 7:49pm
| Did you take any pictures of this? |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-18-2006 at 7:55am
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Waterdog-
Installing the lags are done just like the originals. Predrill through the old hole in the fibergla$$ top (if you left that area intack)with a drill slightly smaller than the threads of the lag. Bolt down. Skibum- My 78'SN took five 5 gallons buckets (25 gallons total). Here's the breakdown: 10 gallons per side for the main stringer. 5 gallons per side for the sencondary stringer set. Huffy420- I pull some photos together and post them. NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-18-2006 at 9:53am
Wouldnt this be a total of 30 gallons? How expensive is this stuff? ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: November-18-2006 at 11:33am
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The SeaCast website breaks it down like this:
o 5ea self-leveling 5 gallon buckets $866.18 o 10ea 2.75oz tubes of BPO catalyst $ 65.00 o 5ea 1oz tubes of BPO catalst $ 16.50 Cost without shipping $947.68 I suspect that $1,000.00 is a pretty good estimate. Then there may be another 5 gallon bucket and catalyst about $200.00. Pretty expensive but if it is a life-long repair it should be worth the cost. This brings up a question about weight. The shipping weight on all of that stuff is 185lbs. I imagine you can add about ten more pounds for the gla$$ to recap the stringers. Almost 200lbs total. I consider extra weight to be counter productive to producing soft slalom wakes. How much heavier is this system compared to the traditional stringer replacement? ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-18-2006 at 4:39pm
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Guys-
Sorry, it must have been 1 1/2 5 gallon buckets per main stringer, because I bought 5 total and used one per secondary. As far as the weight is concerned try weighing the soggy wood you pull out of your current boat. I pulled 2 1/2 big trash cans worth out of the boat and they weighed a ton. The waterlogged foam I pulled out was also a huge amount of weight as well. I think it was 8 commercial size trash bags worth and they were not lite. It's hard to say if my restored boat will be exactly the weight of an original "DRY" 78'SN, but it will be a ton lighter and more dependable than my old "WET" 78'. So because of this I am acually looking foward to a faster more responsive boat in the spring! Dry= Faster! Sweet!! Food for thought... If you want to compare apples to apples look up the weight of Old Growth Douglas Fir which was the original material and do the math. I think you would be surprised that the weight is going to be very close to the Seacast product. Old Growth Fir is pretty heavy as it has a high sap content. I myself am not that concerned with the minor weight difference as I'm going to load the boat full of 30 packs before I go out anyways. Back to my sanding... NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: November-18-2006 at 5:32pm
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Great job on your boat. I really mean it. I bet you shed several hundred pounds of soupy wood and foam. That should pay great dividends in performance. It is much less of a head ache to pour self-leveling compound than to trim wood to fit. Plenty of advantages to using Seacast.
As for the 30 packs...that is far too much weight for me. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-19-2006 at 9:02am
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OK -My "doubting Thomas" self is starting to come around. I think I'll do it. With my own recipe of epoxy resin ,a pinch of LP-3 for ductility and ground gla$$ - kevlar matrix.
The lag bolts will have to go though. The resin system just won't stand up to the shear forces they will see in a 180s. And I will do 180s. When a wood stringer yeilds it rots over time, a resin system fails catastroficly. So I'm thinking about fabing up some stainless/steel brackets with nuts tig welded to them and encapsulating them in the poured stringer. |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: November-19-2006 at 1:11pm
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My thoughts would be to build an aluminum cradle like 1980 S.N.'s and after. So you can through bolt the cradle to the stringers and then bolt the engine to the cradle.
bj ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-19-2006 at 3:26pm
| I've got real problems sinking lag bolts into the resin. The ceramic matrix filler is just trapped(suspended ) in the resin. They are not tied together like fiber. Composite materials get there strength from the solid matrix part(gla$$,kevlar.carbon,boron ect..) and the resin holds it in the desired shape.There are epoxy thread repair systems for "cosmetic" repairs that work for a single striped out thread hole,but won't stand-up to the torque of the origanal thread.But;this system is designed for an engine to be thrugh bolted at the transom sandwitching it with a nut, washer & bolt. The only way to connect the engine & trans mounts to the composite stringer is with an encapsulated bracket. The resin lag bolt interface will fail, not if ,when. |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-20-2006 at 6:54am
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Guys-
The Seacast material comes with long gla$$ fibers to mix into the concoction. Do you think that changes your oppinion on using lags? Also, Seacast does not mention anything about using a through bolt technique only. Do other manufactures (Ajay) mention it? Lastly if it is an issue... How about this idea? I have already poured my stringers so what if I drill two 3/4" holes perpendiciular through the stringers 3" below the mount holes. Then I can fabricate two 3/4" stainless rods to insert into the stringers. These SS rods will have threaded holes to correspond to the bolt locations and then I can use threaded SS bolts to go through the regular mounts, pa$$ through 3" of Seacast and then through the side of the threaded SS rod. The idea is like Ikea uses on there modular furniture but in a much more robust fashion. Whould it work? Would you change any of the dimentions or configurations? Thanks for the ideas and encouragement! NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-20-2006 at 9:28am
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N/M
I like your idea,it will tie the mounts to the stringer in a horazontal plane. Maybe use the 3/4 S/S rod 4 inch lenghts or so ,drill & tap one end about 1 1/2 or 2 inches deep. Drill a 3/4 dia. hole in the stringer top so the rod is flush with the top of the stringer. Cross drill the stringer & rod , pin it with 1/4 pins.Use 3M 5200 to bond the whole mount in place. If anyone is going to use lag bolts,they could be cross drilled and pinned through the lag bolts , maybe two 1/8 solid pins per bolt 1 1/2 inchs apart, but that will permantly set the lag bolts in the stringer. |
Posted By: Nautique Mike
Date Posted: November-20-2006 at 2:09pm
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H20 Dog-
I am acually thinking of CROSS DRILLING the stringer 3" from the top W/ a 3/4" hole going from one side of the stringer to the other. Then inserting a 3/4" SS rod through that hole. The rod ends will be seen on either side of the stringer when your done. Now looking down @ the stringer top, drill down 3" + with a clearance hole (for a 3/8-16 threaded bolt)till you hit the side of the 3/4" rod. Then drill and tap on the side of rod and go right through. With this configuration force is distributed more evenly with the 3/4" rod, rather than a thin pin. Also,for it to rip out the whole fibergla$$ woving from both sides of the stringer plus the 3" of Seacast would have to come with it. If you wanted to make it permanant then you could gla$$ over the ends and hide the rod ends to give the bilge that cla$$ic look. If you don't gla$$ them in than it will be possible to remove them if the threads ever strip down the road. Just remove the 3/8-16 bolts which hold the mount and tap the rod out with a hammer. What do you think? Thanks- NM ------------- Nautique Mike |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-20-2006 at 2:34pm
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NM, perhaps it would be better (and easier) to build an aluminum cradle like hasbeenskier suggested? ------------- |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-20-2006 at 3:34pm
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N/M
That's a good idea - Any type of encapsulated nut / retainer is better than a theaded hole in resin . If you can temp mount the S/S rod and mark it from the top, remove it, drill ,tap, then reinstall. A couple hours it,s done. Man by the time we get to mine it should be gold plated ! See Ya |
Posted By: 25XS
Date Posted: November-25-2006 at 8:31pm
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As usual: Been there, done that.
Here is another company with a section dedicated to "pourable stringer & transom replacement". http://www.seawolfindustries.com/seacast.html Very nice and have used it on raceboats with up to 50hp motors and speeds to 85+mph with not failures and no sign of weakness. Downpoint in the case of racing is that it's twice the weight of wood transoms. Tom ------------- "Stock Stuff" by day... Racing Mercury outboards on the weekends. 1991 Nautique Excel "thousands" of hours... |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: November-26-2006 at 9:02am
I thought that might be the case. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Yak3
Date Posted: November-30-2006 at 12:00am
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hasbeenskier,
any dimensions for that aluminum cradle you suggested? |
Posted By: hasbeenskier
Date Posted: November-30-2006 at 7:10am
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Yak, I can get the dimensions for you. It will take me several days to get the time to get to it. What year boat do you want use it on? The reason I ask is that I have seen them for sale on this site. Seems to me 79Nautique had one. It may have sold. You might post a request for one. In any event I will get the measurements as quickly as posible. bj ------------- hasbeenskier |
Posted By: Yak3
Date Posted: November-30-2006 at 9:55am
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I have a 79 CC w/ a 302 Commander. I was just curious what the thickness of the aluminum was.
Thanks |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: November-30-2006 at 8:22pm
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It's 1/8" thick on my 87SN. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Jesse
Date Posted: May-24-2014 at 7:56pm
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Well how did the arjay and seacast stringers hold up? Do you still have your boats? are the stringers still solid? Did anyone add extra support for the engine mounts? I still need to rip my floor and all up but I am hoping to be able to pour new stringers. I can get polyester resin for like $50-75 for 5 gallons locally and I have a giant box of fiberglass mainly 6oz E glass. I would use the is it 1708 or whatever glass is suppose to be used and epoxy for re-glassing the caps and any extra support. From my understanding epoxy has a 20% better bonding ability and bonds really well to polyester resin, opposed to polyester resin which does not bond well to epoxy. Would love to hear the end out come and I sure others would as well. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-24-2014 at 9:58pm
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Well I think hasbeenskier went a different route with I believe cooska and nautique mike has not been on since '11 I think his boat folded up and he went down with the ship--------- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |