Stuck Federal Prop?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5449
Printed Date: October-31-2024 at 9:33pm
Topic: Stuck Federal Prop?
Posted By: 79Tique
Subject: Stuck Federal Prop?
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 1:11am
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I'm trying to remove my original 1979 Federal prop to replace it with my new Acme 542 and the old prop dosent want to come off. I'm going to try some heat and bilateral tapping tomarrow. I would like to keep the original prop for this old boat so I am hoping not to beat it up too much.
Any good ideas; I'm looking for suggestions. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Replies:
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 8:55am
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Prop pullers are a sore subject for me. Before I made my own, I used one of those small propane torches to heat the prop. I direct the flame on the hub (for several minutes). It would make a "popping" sound and slide right off. Sometimes, to give it a little "encouragement" I would tap it with a ball peen hammer. This causes some discoloration of the prop, may have some other adverse effects on the shaft and the strut bushing, but it does get the prop off. Another thing, leave the prop nut just on the end of the shaft so the prop doesn't just fall off the shaft.
I have had pleny of success with the "c" clamp looking prop pullers. Good ones run as low as $60.00. I have built several but found that the geometry must be precise or the puller itself does not work.  ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 12:41pm
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SkiBum,
Do you remember wich prop pullers are worth trying? No boat shops in my area so I'll be buying one on the internet and I'd like to get the right one the first time. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 1:46pm
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I don't have a brand name for you, but I do have a warning. A prop puller for a 4 blade prop should work for the 3 blade as well. A prop puller for a 3 blade prop, may not work on a 4 blade. If the puller is too wide, it won't fit between the blades of the 4 blade prop. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 2:18pm
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I used a 3-arm gear puller from Advance Auto worked fine and was only $20. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 5:18pm
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The top one here is the one I have http://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=624
Works good on my CC Mustang and a Shamrock, but I don't think it will fit a 4 blade |
Posted By: dans
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 5:50pm
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79Tique,I just removed my 82 federal & put on the 542.I used the acme puller & kit my wife got me for X mas.I followed the directions from acme & used the hammer on the puller.Tighten puller & hit it on both sides of the puller.Tighten more hit again ,then it busted loose.It was stuck good & I had to hit the puller hard.Dan
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1404&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1981&yrend=198582 - 82 2001 |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 6:04pm
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I have used pullers as much as 1/2" wide on four and three blade props. If I were to buy one it would be from ACME because it is forged steel 3/8" thick with stainless bolt. IMHO. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: Behl
Date Posted: January-02-2007 at 10:38pm
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Any one tell how the ones from SKIDIM are?
Steve ------------- Steve in Indy http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1702&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - Redone 1977 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 11:06am
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I've used a couple different types of pullers and like the plate style puller the best.
If the prop is really stuck on there hard, tighten the puller as tight as you can and leave it overnight. Come back to it the next day and go at it again. That method worked twice for me. Good luck -Brad ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 12:44pm
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I'm looking at the two on boatdesigns.com (I don't want to sepend a over $100 for the Acme)should I go for the plate type or the "C" clamp one. The tap with the hammer method described with the C-Clamp one sounds effective, but folks seem to like the plate style better. Suggestions? ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 1:24pm
I'll agree that the Acme is very nice. Its over $100 because it is only included in a kit that adds a prop carrying case, an adjustable wrench, plus a spare lock nut, cotter pin and key. IMO, for $30 extra the kit is a good buy. If you only want the puller, there is one at http://deltaprop.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=37&cat=Pullers+%26++Kits - Delta Propellor for $74 before our 5% discount. ------------- |
79Tique wrote:Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 2:15pm
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FWIW - I just got a ARE prop puller. It's one of the most expensive pullers out there but it's also the most heavy duty puller I've seen. It even has a little swivel on the end of the screw-down portion so it doesn't marr the end of your prop shaft. It probably weighs twice what most pullers I've used weigh- it's a beast.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=IRonMANG10 - Ironman Puller |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 4:30pm
| I agree with M3fan. I have an Ironman that I got from SKIDIM and it works awesome. I liked it so much that I got another one for my brother-in-law for a Xmas present. It is a heavy one and the fact that the head swivels won't ruin the end of the driveshaft or anything else. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 4:48pm
I cant be 100% sure, but I believe the Acme has this feature as well. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 6:15pm
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The Ironman is less than 100 bucks as well. Good choice unless you want to make a monster like the one in picture above. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 9:03pm
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I'm ordering the Ironman this evening. Seems like the best I can get for under a 100 bucks. I did the heat thing today and some more tapping with a hammer and no luck. I'm not hitting the prop very hard as I really want to preserve the the old prop. I hope this Ironman puller does the trick. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: MaddMarxx
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 10:42pm
| 79Tique...did you try spraying it with something like (PB-BLASTER) that stuff can unfreeze anything, and its cheeper then a puller. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-03-2007 at 10:48pm
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Thanks MaddMarxx, I'll try the blaster with the puller as it is already ordered. Can't hurt to add some chemicals to the effort. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-15-2007 at 8:21pm
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The Ironman puller got the prop off. Now I'm putting the new Acme on and it seems to sit on the shaft nice. I spun it around on the shaft and it snugs up tight, the slots for the key line up well.
How do you go about putting the key back in? I want to do this right so I don't bugger things up. Any other tricks or details I should know about? Thanks for the help, Gabe ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: dans
Date Posted: January-16-2007 at 12:35am
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Mine only slid in one way smoothly.I had A new key & didn't force it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1404&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1981&yrend=198582 - 82 2001 |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-16-2007 at 12:58am
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Did you set the prop all the way on to the shaft then push the key in? What's easy? Pushing by hand or tapping with a hammer? Mine does not seem even close to pushing in by hand. Might even be hard to drive in with a hammer. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: January-16-2007 at 6:46am
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No hammer.
To start, make sure the key can slide in the prop, and the key can slide in the shaft. Else remedy the situation by deburring and if necessary run the key down a fine file to take a thousanth or two off. Then using some rubbing compound, lap the prop to the shaft. Clean. Mark the shaft with a sharpie where the prop seats. Now a$$emble with the keyway. The prop had better slide to the mark, else the key is binding. You want the key to float, not bind. Never draw the prop on with the nut. When you can a$$emble it all without bind, and seated as well as without the key, its time to add the washer add the castle nut or new nylock nut, and pin. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: January-16-2007 at 9:10am
Do not use a hammer. If you can't get it on by hand something is wrong. Take it off and try again. Make sure the key is not already sitting high up on the shaft, I have success if it slides a little of the way up with the prop. ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: January-16-2007 at 11:11am
| I agree with everybody else. The key must be able to slide into the prop and the shaft without binding. I put the prop on and get the key started and then just push it in so it's flush with the prop with a needle nose pliers or something similar. Then you can put the prop nut on. NEVER, EVER use a hammer. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-17-2007 at 2:30am
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OK no hammer. I think I need a new key as this old one seems way too tight and it's ugly. I may try grinding it down but if they don't cost much then I'll order a new one. The weather here just got real cold -5 at night and 10F in the afternoon. Too cold to work on the boat so I have the time to wait for the part. I like the snow around in the winter but this sucks! ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-17-2007 at 3:01am
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Anyone know what size key goes with my 79 Ski Tique and a new Acme 542 prop? ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: January-18-2007 at 3:46pm
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I think I read where someone buys 1/4"x1/4" bra$$ bar stock and makes his keys from that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-18-2007 at 9:30pm
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Thanks, I found a new key to fit from Acme for $6.50 and it's on it's way to me. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-25-2007 at 2:02pm
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The New 542 is on and seems to fit great. Pleanty of clearance, and went on easy following everyone's advice. I put a new castle nut from Acme on with the new key. Does any one have experience with the newer style nylock nut on the older CC boats that came with the castle nuts? ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: January-25-2007 at 4:35pm
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I have been running the acme 540 on my 69 SN for about year now with the nylock, no problemo.
Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: January-26-2007 at 12:46pm
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Cool, thanks. I'll get one next time I take my prop off. ------------- Work to live, not live to work. |