over heating
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5742
Printed Date: November-10-2024 at 4:31pm
Topic: over heating
Posted By: olebots
Subject: over heating
Date Posted: February-15-2007 at 9:45pm
| Hi, I am new to the forum but have been reading it for sometime. I have a 1969 - 289 ford interceptor - with an irrad*ck heating problem. The temp goes up to 212 degrees then drops back to 140 degrees and then back up to over 200 degrees. Has new water pump impeller, new 160 thermostat, manifolds.. maintains raw water temp thur mainifolds and exhaust until temputure starts to drop then water out of block will travel into the mainfolds and thru exhaust. As soom as temp drops the flow out of the block will stop and exhust temp will go back to raw water temp. This engine has block circulator pump.The temp was checked by head gun to elimanate gauge or sender Thanks for any help |
Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 7:33am
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maybe possibly go to a 140 thermostat, it sounds like its spiking due to the 160 therm.it maybe heating to 160, it opens then you get cold water back to it and it closes. the 140 may close the gap and regulate the flow consistantly. this was my first thought.....just an idea. by the way welcome to the site! Eric ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Munday
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 8:31am
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Is hose routing stock?might look in dairies to compare.
look for pieces of old impeller in system. try a new t stat,bad parts make big headaches might try gutting a t stat just to restrick flow but not stop it see if temp ever evens out. good luck Munday |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 9:27am
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the old interceptors have some tricks to them, uneven T's that need to face a particular direction thermostat bypa$$es that should or shouldnt be there etc, Take a picture if you can of your current routings and components.
-Joe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 10:56am
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diffently a routing issue. If it was a piece of impeller somewhere it would be constant. The readings are irradic because the t-stat is opening and closing and that's when you are see the spikes. take some pictures and post and we'll be able to narrow it down for you. There most likely is a tee- backwards allowing more to flow in one direction that it shouldn't and not having enough flow where it needs it. What you don't want is the water coming from a small fitting then dumping into a larger fitting. It should be a larger line going into a couple of smaller equal sized lines ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 5:22pm
We need some pics. Have you checked the circ pump? When I changed mine years ago, the blades were gone, worn off, it wasn't pushing water at all. What style of thermostat did you get? I've noticed that the one on the right below works better. I would go with a 140 or 142 degree stat.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: olebots
Date Posted: February-16-2007 at 6:34pm
| Thanks for the help i hope to get pictures tomorrow |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: February-17-2007 at 9:10am
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Olebots,had a 302 that no amout of money could cool down,PO thru money at it from pumps ,raw water and circulating,thermostats in and out. Reworked the heads, possible cracks,fixed the problem,SOLD THE BOAT.
My buddy bought the problem,along with all the old parts,his fix was to change the entire motor,boat ran cool.......... I end up with the complete motor,manifolds,pump,risers,etc.Sets in my shop for a year,no time nor desire to chase rabbits on that old a motor. On day while walking past looked inside the port riser,there was no hole or channel at the top for the dump,rust and sediment plugged the channel,a set of risers fixed the overheat problem. check the flow at the manifolds .this is how the engine purges the hot water.My .02 worth ..............boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: olebots
Date Posted: February-17-2007 at 11:46am
Hope that these pictures will help. The line runs from rrp to 1x1x11/4 with restrictor going to circulator pump 11/4 bypa$$ line run to to 1x1x11/4 tee with restrictor on port or left manifold. I pulled out thermostat and engine ran cool  
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Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-17-2007 at 12:11pm
OK, you've got the same set up as my mustang, except for the pvc pipe. You need to check the bypa$$ hose that goes from the circ pump to the intake manifold to the left of the distributor. Take that hose off, pull off the thermostat cover and check to see if the 90 degree fitting is clogged. Push some wire or something to make sure it's not clogged. I found impellor blades in that fitting twice after my impellor pump shredded 2 years ago. Also verify that when you turn the circ pump pulley, the water blades on the pump are turning. Here's a pic of my '66.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2007 at 9:29am
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it's hard to see but it looks like the hose going to the pa$$enger side manifold is larger than the hose going to the t-stat housing and this is backwards the small line should go to the manifold and the larger line should feed the t-stat. If the t-stat cover does accept the larger hose size then I would say that it was replaced at one time with the wrong t-stat cover. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-18-2007 at 6:33pm
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What do you mean by "larger line should feed the t-stat"? ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2007 at 7:56pm
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say 1/2" i.d. hose is on one side and a 1" i.d. on the other side of a tee that has a 1 to 1.25" line that feeds it, More water will flow to the 1" side...... larger i.d. = less resistance.
but that larger dimater side is then split in to two other smaller lines which then balances the system to feed equal amounts of water each way. That is provided the cross sectional area of the two lines is equal to the cross sectional area of the single line or a proportional of required flow or someting like that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-18-2007 at 9:55pm
The "T" which has a small outlet and a larger outlet (red arrow) does not cool the engine. It supplies the exhaust manifolds a constant flow of water.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 10:26am
it does supply constant flow to the ex manifolds, but it also feeds the block too otherwise it would not be attacted to the t-stat housing. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Tim D wrote:Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 12:57pm
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Let me get this right, you think water enters the motor at the thermostat? ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 1:06pm
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open cooling system right? it's not a closed system right?
the pick-up hose from the bottom of the hull feeds the tranny cooler then continues to the rwp then goes to the tee right? there's only one hose on the output side of the RWP and it flows into the TEE without and branchs correct? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 2:43pm
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"there's only one hose on the output side of the RWP and it flows into the TEE without and branchs correct?"
If thats the case then that is a problem, he should have two lines coming off the RWP, one that goes to that T up top, and one that goes to the large inlet of the Circulating pump. The circulating pump needs to increase the pressure of the water inside the block to a level higher than that of the RWP so that when the thermostat opens it allows the hot water to be pushed out of the engine (against the pressure of the RWP that is being provided to the manifolds.) There is also a bypa$$ from the manifold down to another inlet on the circulating pump that keeps the water in the engine moving. Its not the best system ever devised. Even with the special T that restricts flow on the port side so some water will make it over to the starboard size its hard to keep the two sides the same temp. It is imperative with this setup that your thermostat has a pretty low pressure drop, similar to the one on the right, or the pressure from the RWP can prevent the hot water from making it out. If you are missing impellor blades on one of these interceptor type setups they are most likely in the caps on the front of the manifolds they have a relatively large intlet but then channel the flow of the water into the small jackets around the manifolds, I have had a couple sets of these manifolds and found old broken impellor blades in both at this spot. I have changed my routing at this point and it works great, even temps on both manifolds, temp is always rock solid on the engine but its real ugly.... -Joe. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 6:03pm
This is the same subject from way back when Jim in Houston was asking about the T. Some people were saying crap like feed the engine not the exhaust. Any way I'll use a pic of mine, same set up this guy has. T # 1 feeds the exhaust a constant flow. T #2 splits water to circ pump and sends to T #1. Hose #3 sends water to the circ pump. With this set up, you'll have more hot water going out the driver side exhaust when the thermostat opens, its closer to that side (shorter hose) and the flow from T #1 across the thermostat housing. Water enters the block behind the circ pump and comes out the thermostat.
 ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 7:01pm
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so then the output to the RWP then Tee's to feed the circ pump and exhaust, and on the exhaust leg from that it tee's again to feed both ex manifolds. ok. The other systems seems a little easier with the different style t-stat housing and circ pump compair to this set up.
Seems like there's nothing that can be done to keep them equal the drivers side is always going to be hotter. Sure glade I've got the other style fewer hoses and connections. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: olebots
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 9:29pm
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I have been reading all the responses but no cures. Tin d has the right flow for the water and mine is the same way. 79 Nautique you are right for the Waukesha and later pcm model because your water from rrp enter the block at the thermostat housing and entering the return to the circulator pump not on top of the thermostat . Your system is much better same as on my 74 South wind. No one said interceptors was a good system but I have to live with it
Let me clear up a few question I have checked every hose from intake to exhaust and every thing is Clear including the return line from intake manifold to circulator pump. I put a 140 deg. Thermostat in and all it did was lower the temp but the spike is still there. Tim D Does your circulator pump have one line for the return from manifold? Mine has two lines the same as you would for heat core in a car. Spoke to previous owner and in talking he thinks it was doing the same thing when he stop running the boat 10 year ago but did not think there was any thing wrong. I am thinking someone has put an auto pump on and with the ccw rotation it is turning the wrong way. Any thoughts |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 10:38pm
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Yes mine has the "bypa$$" hose from the intake to the circ pump. On the circ pump, one of the fittings has a rubber plug, I think you can barely see it above the pulley in that last photo. My circ pump is fairly new, one of those rt. hand only models from ski dim. Do you have sufficient water flow? Can you run it on a fake-a-lake? There is a cam plate in the bottom of the rwp that can be replaced, its on the bottom where the pump pulls water across the holes. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: February-19-2007 at 11:56pm
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This may be a far shot , but my 302 had heat spikes and I tryed everything I could think of . My last thing to do was to do a compression check to see if my head gasket was bad and blowing the water away allowing it to not cool correctly . then winter set in and I had other projects to do . Still dont have compression check.
Pat ------------- Pat http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier Rock River Dixon,ILL. |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: February-20-2007 at 4:01pm
Me too.... You guys with these motors really do need to watch your gauges and impellers.. To many darn hoses 
Moj' ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |