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Cant get the crank hub bolt out

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5871
Printed Date: November-30-2024 at 4:33pm


Topic: Cant get the crank hub bolt out
Posted By: wannabeSS
Subject: Cant get the crank hub bolt out
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:15pm
Some of you read my thread about breaking the timing chain, well i've started tearing down the front of the motor to replace it. I cant seem to get the crank hub bolt off because the motor just keeps turning over when i wrench. I tried putting the trans in gear but that obviously didnt work. I need some way to stop the motor so i can take this bolt off.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137



Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:18pm
Are you using an impact gun?

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Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Are you using an impact gun?
no because the ski pole is in the way, i tried to loosen the nuts for the pole but the bolt starts to spin

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:45pm
I would think that is gonna be a tough one without the impact gun. Could you possibly get a strap wrench around the balancer to hold it? Not sure if that will work and then you still have a problem tourqing it back down when re-installing. I'd work on that pylon again.

You could pull the tranny and try to hold the crank in place from that end but it's probably easier to pull the motor.

Here's another thought for you, do you have enough room to get a puller on the balancer even if you do get the bolt out or is the pylon still in the way?

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

I would think that is gonna be a tough one without the impact gun. Could you possibly get a strap wrench around the balancer to hold it? Not sure if that will work and then you still have a problem tourqing it back down when re-installing. I'd work on that pylon again.

You could pull the tranny and try to hold the crank in place from that end but it's probably easier to pull the motor.

Here's another thought for you, do you have enough room to get a puller on the balancer even if you do get the bolt out or is the pylon still in the way?
The thing is the bolts just spin when i turn the nut on the pylon, arent the bolts part of the boat? I cant seem to get my hand to the back of the bolt.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:52pm
I hate to say it but put a breaker bar on it and try hitting the breaker bar with a deadblow hammer or equivalant, that acts like a impact, i use heat(propane or mapp) on the bolt in case there is locktite on it but you have to be careful with the heat, worse case remove starter and lock flywheel, even worse case remove engine

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:54pm
ok two ways of doing it, the first the postion of the wrench makes a hugh difference. Also can't remember if it has left hand threads or not so you might try turning it the other way.

method one is with a long breaker bar or ratchet and you have to have the wrench handle at just before 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock and that will help direct the torque to the bolt and not spin the crank.

The second is a little easier. get two old bolts and screw them into the holes used to mount the pulley then use a long pry bar against them to keep it from turning.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:55pm
The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 4:59pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.


There should be nylon lock nuts on the back side and you while have to reach in the inspection cover by the battery box to get to them but you really don't need to do all that if you just screw in two bolts into the harmonic balance and use a pry bar against them. Don't make the job harder than it all ready is.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:10pm
***Edit*** I'll let the pics do the talking twinkle fingers.

This is SkiBum's cradle, notice no "V" welded in, I don't know the exact specs throughout the years. What the '84 cradle looks like I don't know, should be similar.









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Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.
loosened the 4 bolts, i thought they were u-bolts at first, took out the bolt and nut at the bottom but i cant get the pole to come out, tried hammer, wiggling, and prying at the bottom

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.


There should be nylon lock nuts on the back side and you while have to reach in the inspection cover by the battery box to get to them but you really don't need to do all that if you just screw in two bolts into the harmonic balance and use a pry bar against them. Don't make the job harder than it all ready is.
I was scared to do that thinking i might break them, but ill give it a shot

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:27pm
Kevin I'll give you that one the one that I saw had bolts and not u-bolts, didn't even have the side braces either.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:30pm
Chris, I threw in the disclaimer that I don't now what the '84 one is exactly. Just doing a little "armchair engineering" here based on the '88. Either way, loosen the clamp however it needs to be done, remove pin and the thing should come out.

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 5:37pm
I agree but even f you get the bolts and pin out it still will catch on the floorboards some as well. might try twisting it a little back and forth as you pull out on it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

I agree but even f you get the bolts and pin out it still will catch on the floorboards some as well. might try twisting it a little back and forth as you pull out on it.
It's ok i used your method and got the bolt out / Got the cover off, the chain didnt break but the cam gear is . Do you guys have a list of all the sizes of the timing cover bolts b/c mine are pretty rusty and some are shot.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:12pm
I just took the pylon out of the 82. There were four bolts and nuts clamping the pylon into the aluminum bracket. Not the U bolts as Hollywood depicted above. The nuts on mine were nyloc. You can reach through the bilge hole in front of the motor box and get a wrench on them. It will probably take two people. One to reach through the bilge hole and one on the bolt end near the motor. There's also a small bolt through the pylon/floor receiver at the bottom. I had to twist the pylon pretty good as it was rusted in at the bottom assembly. BKH

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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:12pm
just order a set of S/S ARP's from summit or Jeg's. They'll have a listing for bolt kits for teh timing cover.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:14pm
don't frget you have to drop the front of the oil pan a little to get the timing cover off and a couple of the pan bolts screw into the cover it's self.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:23pm
wannabeSS,

How many hours on the motor? I've seen chains stretch but never busting a gear like that. Especially on these boats where the prop never breaks free. That seems a little odd to me.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:47pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

wannabeSS,

How many hours on the motor? I've seen chains stretch but never busting a gear like that. Especially on these boats where the prop never breaks free. That seems a little odd to me.
700 on the boat, all the teeth on the gear are worn off and a lot are chipped. I went to advance auto and it was a little difficult to find the right gear, but they are getting one transferred to the store. how do you guys usually buy motor parts for these?

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 6:59pm
is this the right bolt kit? it's from jegs

070-454-1504      SB-Ford Stainless Hex

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 7:09pm
I don't know if I would have bought it from advance, but I wouldn't have just bought the gear only and would have got both gears and a chain as a set. A lot of the gears are actually nylon not all but alot, doesn't really suprize me it striped the gears once one or two go the rest go quickly.

I'll have to look for the bolt kit. Should be the right one.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 7:44pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

I don't know if I would have bought it from advance, but I wouldn't have just bought the gear only and would have got both gears and a chain as a set. A lot of the gears are actually nylon not all but alot, doesn't really suprize me it striped the gears once one or two go the rest go quickly.

I'll have to look for the bolt kit. Should be the right one.
I didnt buy the gear, i bought a new chain and they ordered the gear so i can compare and see if it's the right one. if i were to buy it from jegs or something, would it just be a 351 timing set?

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 7:55pm
go to NAPA and get it there and ask if they have a roller timing chain and gear set and ask if they have more than one brand to select from and get the one that cost a little more and is a brand name like speed pro, clevite, sealed power. get the NAPA brand if you have too or the others are too much cash.

I never trust the guys at autozone, advance, o'riely's most can't find their a**hole let alone parts. NAPA, CARQUEST or a mom and pop parts store are much safer then most of the national chains, besides unless you ask for name brand parts at autozone/advance and the like, your going to get the cheapist crap on the market.

If I Buy parts from one of those stores I'm going and asking for a specific brand and part number and never let them look it up.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-01-2007 at 9:40pm
79,

I was surpised to see the gear set that came off my motor had nylon gears. Cheap piece of crap. I'm a firm believer that these motors need a timing chain set at 700 hours.   I got a double roller cloyes set at summit for about $40.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 8:32am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

79,

I was surpised to see the gear set that came off my motor had nylon gears. Cheap piece of crap. I'm a firm believer that these motors need a timing chain set at 700 hours.   I got a double roller cloyes set at summit for about $40.
Did the double roller fit w/o cutting the cover? I know on my camaro motor i had to remove some material to fit the DR.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 8:37am
Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 8:55am
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit.


Same here.

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Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 11:41am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit.


Same here.
good news, but ALSO i went to NAPA and they had the set so im going to buy it

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 11:56am
your going to need to remove the valve cover on the drivers side to verify that the cam is in the right postion when the #1 cyl is on TDC before you install the gears and chain. This will allow you to make sure that it is also on the correct phase, intake/exhaust of the cam.

Since the gear striped you have to get everything lined up and timed correctly otherwise your in for a major oh sh*t.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

your going to need to remove the valve cover on the drivers side to verify that the cam is in the right postion when the #1 cyl is on TDC before you install the gears and chain. This will allow you to make sure that it is also on the correct phase, intake/exhaust of the cam.

Since the gear striped you have to get everything lined up and timed correctly otherwise your in for a major oh sh*t.
When i go dot to dot, the motor should be in perfect time, i dont understand what you mean. Another ford thing?

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 12:28pm
Ok if you say so

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-02-2007 at 3:23pm
Did you know that they changed the timing set on december 10, 1984? The ones that they had at NAPA didnt match, advance ordered the one that looked close to this one, what a pos.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 7:25pm
WannabeSS, no need to pull the valve cover, take off the dist. cap ,make sure you are on #1 line up the dots. You are on the right track, some people on this site talk out there ass,kinda like the harmonic bolt could be left hand threads,79 that is bullsh*t, Ford ain't never had a L/H tread.
Talk is cheap and so is your advice79..............And you tell this man to buy his parts a NAPA,yea...

WannabeSS, gears and chains can be bought at Sumitt or Jeggs for about the same money,and you won't get any chinese or jap crap..
just me talking.........boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-05-2007 at 9:12pm
always a day late and dollar short, where were you when he was having trouble getting it off, nowhere, but you always have time to critize (sp) after the fact, days later, Doc your just a JACK ASS. If your half the man you say you are then you should have spoke up earlier but as always, there wasn't anything to drop ship at cost or collect towards your Hy-Tek dealership.

All you really are Doc is a blow hard coward that won't help out unless it all ready done so you can crittize what was done or suggested we really don't need you comments.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-09-2007 at 7:24pm
Im flattered that you guys are fighting to help me . Anyways, got my timing set from advance, all is good. Now I need help getting the distributor back in. I have the dots lined up on the timing set perfectly, I just need to know where to position the rotor and distributor.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-09-2007 at 7:59pm
YO DOC WHERE ARE YOU HELLO DOC CAN YOU HELP A GUY OUT?

Didn't thing so had time to tell someone about a trailer part but help on putting a dist in is too much to ask I guess.

Since you have the dots lined up you should have the #1 on TDC as well so there are two ways to go about it.

one is just drop the dist in and what ever spark plug tower it points to is your #1 and then you need to change all of the wires accordingly following the firing order of the engine. Don't recommend doing it this way but it will work.

the other way is trace back the #1 lead back to the cap and where that tower is is where the rotor tip should point. Just keep in mind the rotor will rotate some while you are inserting the dist. And you have to pay attention to where the key in the cap is to so that you know where to line the dist base up because it can rotate and will rotate.

So lets try this a little different. With the cap off look for the key/indexing feature of the cap, might be on the bottom of the cap or side, depends on the dist. make and model,

then locate which tower the #1 wire goes too. Now postion the cap in it's normal postion, just hold it in the air over the dist opening in the block with the dist base out. Now look for the indexing feature of the cap and where the #1 tower is these are your refernce marks that you need to line up once it's all done so make some chalk marks, use tape or just remember where they are.

Next instal the dist base so that the rotor lines up where your reference of the tower is, then you want to rotate the base of the dist until the indexing feature is lined up with the other reference point. Now sit the cap on the base and the #1 tower should be over the tip of the rotor. If it's not then you might have to rotate the base a little so that it is. Snug the bolt a little so that the base doesn't rotate too easily on you, start it up and set the timing.

Worse comes to worse and this is confusing to you go back to method one and remember the rotor turns CCW

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-10-2007 at 11:29am
Ok some of that was confusing, but i think i got it. I have the dist in with the rotor facing the #1 tower when the cap is installed, engine is TDC #1. Now for the timing part... My balancer is all rusty and i cant see the marks on it, how do i set the timing?

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-10-2007 at 11:36am
well the marks should be ingraved in the balancer spray some carb clear/brake clean on that area of the harm. bal and wipe it down to clean it some. Now get a piece of chalk or a lite colored crayon and rub it over the ingrave has marks. now litely wip it off so that it is only in the grooves and numbers. You should also see different length lines. You really only looking for the 8 or 10 degree mark. doing this will make it easier to see the marks now hook up the timing light and set it at 8-10 btdc. once it is there then tighten down the dist clamp and recheck the time to make sure it did not move when you tightened it. hope this helps but if not you are going to have to do it by ear.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

well the marks should be ingraved in the balancer spray some carb clear/brake clean on that area of the harm. bal and wipe it down to clean it some. Now get a piece of chalk or a lite colored crayon and rub it over the ingrave has marks. now litely wip it off so that it is only in the grooves and numbers. You should also see different length lines. You really only looking for the 8 or 10 degree mark. doing this will make it easier to see the marks now hook up the timing light and set it at 8-10 btdc. once it is there then tighten down the dist clamp and recheck the time to make sure it did not move when you tightened it. hope this helps but if not you are going to have to do it by ear.
thanks!

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-26-2007 at 3:18pm
I just got around to trying to clean the balancer, it's really pitted from the brackish water use the previous owner did. I cannot get the engraved lines to come up. Do you think you could maybe measure the engraved lines from a mark like a pulley bolt so i can make new lines? Or how would i go about setting the timing by ear? I called skidim because i was going to buy a new balancer, but it is $477

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-26-2007 at 3:44pm
If it were me, Id just put some timing tape over the current balancer. To figure out where to install it, you need to locate top dead center (TDC) on cyl #1. Get a piston stop like http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900189&N=700+%2D111338+115&autoview=sku - this one and follow steps 1 through 6 for the intake center line method described in http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf - these instructions.

This method would require you to remove a valve cover and the crank pully. Maybe someone else can suggest an easier method.

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Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-26-2007 at 6:53pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If it were me, Id just put some timing tape over the current balancer. To figure out where to install it, you need to locate top dead center (TDC) on cyl #1. Get a piston stop like http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900189&N=700+%2D111338+115&autoview=sku - this one and follow steps 1 through 6 for the intake center line method described in http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf - these instructions.

This method would require you to remove a valve cover and the crank pully. Maybe someone else can suggest an easier method.
Well i still have the timing cover off and the timing set is still at TDC #1.

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-27-2007 at 8:54pm
If you have it lined up, (dots/TDC) then the pointer should be pretty much on Zero then and that is where zero on the tape well be as well.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: wannabeSS
Date Posted: March-27-2007 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

If you have it lined up, (dots/TDC) then the pointer should be pretty much on Zero then and that is where zero on the tape well be as well.
i love this place

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96 Camaro SS #1157
84 Ski Nautique, fat sacks, fly high pole
06 LF Fish 125
06 LF PS3 137



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