Boat Lift Modification
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5972
Printed Date: December-23-2024 at 5:06am
Topic: Boat Lift Modification
Posted By: CCrider89
Subject: Boat Lift Modification
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 12:57pm
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Question to all. I am modifying my old steel boat lift to be able to lift my Ski Nautique 89. The lift had a bow "V" and a stern "V". From all the lifts which I have seen, they all seem to be bunk style.
So the question is, can I use carpet covered treated wood for the bunk and what dimensions should the wood be or should I get rubber covered aluminium channel (as seen on new lifts). I really would like to use the wood but am worried about central support. Any advice would be appreciated Craig ------------- CCrider89 Boating in the northern Adirondacks |
Replies:
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 1:47pm
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My first Shorestation lift had a carpeted bunk at the front and two carpeted pads on a pivot in the rear which sounds similar to what you may have, it worked fine for my 80' Ski Nautique. Currently have a newer model http://www.shorestation.com/pages/l_h_b_alum_feature.html - Shorestation similar to the one in the link, the 2x6 wood bunks run front to rear and have a carpet covering, works great, the 2x6 gives while under load to follow the hull of the boat.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 1:49pm
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CC, Don't forget about the clearence needed for the prop and shaft. Alot depends on how far forward you put the boat on the cradle though. It may come from the wooden boat in me but I prefer almost full length bunks running fore to aft just like the bunks on a trailer. With a wood boat, this is a MUST for proper support in the middle as well as the fore and aft. On my Shoremaster, I ran 2 10' lengths of 6" aluminum "I" beam and then beveled treated 2X4's on top to staple the carpet to. I modified the rear cross member of the cradle into a broad V to handle the prop clearence. I do not like what all the lift manufacturers offer as their solution to handle a inboard.
Just a side note but do check the condition of all the pivots and cables. Those old steel lifts can be a real problem when they get old. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: CCrider89
Date Posted: March-11-2007 at 2:39pm
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Quinner
Your old lift had the same set up as mine. I have already removed the cross beams and am now thinking (working) on the bunk problem 2x6 sounds good, it bends to the shape of the hull and has enough residual strength to hold where the motor is. I figure the main stringers in the boat also disipate the weight of the motor over the full length of the boat. 8122 Thanks for reminding me, I think it will be the fins that I will have to build clearance for. I have already built new bottom cross members and vertical supports. I still have to change the cable and may even go to a double block setup to lessen the stress on the winch. All I need to do now is get rid of 4 feet of snow. Next question. From tip of center fins to top of trailer bunk would be about what measurement. I measured 12" but it was damn cold and snow everywhere. Thanks craig ------------- CCrider89 Boating in the northern Adirondacks |
Posted By: CCrider89
Date Posted: March-19-2007 at 4:02pm
Here a picture of the back beam of my boat lift after being modified. Thanks for your suggestions. ------------- CCrider89 Boating in the northern Adirondacks |