Print Page | Close Window

i need rudder help...

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6301
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 5:06am


Topic: i need rudder help...
Posted By: acedizzle916
Subject: i need rudder help...
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:34pm
So my strut was worn out and nobody in town wanted to press a new bushing into it for me so i bought a new strut for almost $400, then realized that the old strut was so worn that it damaged the drive shaft, so i spent another $300+ on a new drive shaft. now to install the new drive shaft i have to remove the rudder, and for the life of me i can't figure out how to do that.

i removed the four bolts that come up through the bottom of the boat and tried loosening everything i could but i'm stuck i don't know where to go from here, can anyone help me out?



Replies:
Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:36pm
i guess i should also mention, its an 83 ski nautique :)


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:38pm
No need to remove the rudder housing- you can put those 4 bolts back in. If you remove the tiller arm, the rudder will drop right out. It good to have a helper hold the rudder so it doesnt drop on the ground.

-------------


Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:39pm
well thats good to know. how do i remove the tiller arm? do i remove the bolt on the very top?


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:46pm
Originally posted by acedizzle916 acedizzle916 wrote:

well thats good to know. how do i remove the tiller arm? do i remove the bolt on the very top?


Yes.

-------------


Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:53pm
ok cool! thats what i was trying to do but that bolt didn't want to budge, i guess i'll just find a longer wrench and put some muscle into it..hahah. thanks very much for your help :)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 2:42pm
Don't forget to reseal the 4 bolts with some 5200.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 5:41pm
there should be safety wire on the bolt that holds the tiller arm on.


Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:12pm
well i got the rudder off fine but i don't have anough room underneath the trailer to drop the rudder out of the boat so i'm going to have to jack the boat up off the trailer a little bit. can someone tell me are there certain lift points or somthing that i need to use? im afraid of damaging the bottom of my boat.


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:40pm
Ace, block the wheels and jack it up at the tail end. Put something between the jack and the gelcoat to protect it. If you have overhead lifting capability you can use the lifting rings.


Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:54pm
i dont have overhead lifting capability.. is there any specific point at the tail end i should use? and would a block of wood and a beach towel do ok for pretecting the gel coat?

a friend told me that i should just get 3 or 4 people together and try to push the boat back on the trailer a couple inches so that the rudder will not hit the prop guard. is that a good or bad idea? and are we going to be able to slide it back on the trailer or is it too heavy?


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: April-12-2007 at 8:38pm
place your jack as far back and as close to directly under the stern that you can. Use the lowest point and use the block and towel to protect gel and so that it doesnt slip. Your boat weighs about 2400 pounds so you would need more friends to move it back.


Posted By: acedizzle916
Date Posted: April-14-2007 at 2:27pm
I just went down to a shop and rented an engine hoist for $25 to lift the back of the boat up. working so far. thx :)


Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: April-16-2007 at 11:32am
May be a silly question but you did drop the front of the boat first, right?

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique

FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-16-2007 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by Mark Mel Mark Mel wrote:

May be a silly question but you did drop the front of the boat first, right?


the guard is going to tilt with the trailer. waiste of time doing that.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: April-17-2007 at 10:55am
Ah, I don't have a guard so I didn't even think of that. :)

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique

FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct


Posted By: redmondschmidts
Date Posted: April-18-2007 at 12:27pm
I am glad to see this thread since I am in the process of fixing my steering on my 76 Ski Nautique. I've dropped the rudder (found the grease had turned to goop)and am preparing to re-pack the shaft, having cleaned it up.

Am thinking about drilling and tapping the rudder housing to install a grease point, but am really wondering if anyone knows where I can get a replacement for the wax seal. The old one was over-tightened by the last owner (which I think is why the steering cable is wracked) and I need to replace it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: April-18-2007 at 12:47pm
I think it's just wax rope packing.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique

FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct


Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: April-18-2007 at 4:06pm
Here's a link to http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO1/4X24 - skidim packings

I like to cut the rope packing into lengths (4 or 5) that will go around the shaft without overlapping at the ends. Then make sure you don't line up the joints- as opposed to spiraling the rope packing in one continuous peice..

The grease fitting is a neat idea- though you may need to replace the entire rudder port with a dripless style-

-------------
Former:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda


Posted By: Darrel
Date Posted: April-18-2007 at 4:12pm
I tapped a grease fitting into my rudder port last year. Its worked great, no problems.


Posted By: redmondschmidts
Date Posted: April-20-2007 at 11:14pm
Great advice. I picked up the rope packing and the grease fitting. Tomorrow I'll drill, tap and re-assemble. Then I hope not to have to mess with this for another 31 years


Posted By: redmondschmidts
Date Posted: April-21-2007 at 5:31pm
Installed the grease fitting today w/no problems, re-packed the rudder and re-assembled the rig. However, when I tightened the compression nut, I noticed it has a vertical crack! I think the prior owner must have done it when cranking it down so tight. I think it will still work ok, but does anyone have any ideas where I might find a replacement?

-------------
Homelake: Sammamish


Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: April-21-2007 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by redmondschmidts redmondschmidts wrote:

but does anyone have any ideas where I might find a replacement?


Try here:

http://www.henrysmith.com/hhsindex.htm - Rudder Parts

Chuck

-------------
Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me


http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique


Posted By: redmondschmidts
Date Posted: April-21-2007 at 10:14pm
Yes. That link looks like a good bet. Thanks very much for sharing!

-------------
Homelake: Sammamish


Posted By: 74SkiNautique
Date Posted: August-14-2008 at 11:16pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don't forget to reseal the 4 bolts with some 5200.


Whats up with the 5200 stuff? I saw it on skidim? Whats all the hoopla about it?

-------------
74SkiNautique


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: August-15-2008 at 8:43pm
   74 S N,    5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant made by 3M      All under water hardware should be installed with this stuff.   Boatlife sealant will wash out in 3 years maybe less.
Lets say you take out the 4 bolts to your rudder log, and put them back in dry with no sealer, water will leak right around the bolts no matter how tight you get them.

AT


PS: When I bought my 74 Nautique in 2004, every thing was leaking, except for the fins and drain plug fitting.
Removed everything under water, cleaned and resealed with 3M. Use a lot, don't get it in your hair, if you do, cleans up with paint thinner.
A dry bilge is a happy bilge.




Posted By: Booty
Date Posted: August-15-2008 at 10:13pm
I just dropped my rudder , I unbolted the prop gaurd to drop it down and lowered the tounge of the trailer down to raise the rear of the boat with the front wheel jack , and yes have someone catch the rudder when it drops out. if it is welded use a floor jack to raise boat. If not welded replace nuts and bolts with grade 5 or even better grade 8 I use grade 8 on everything


-------------
Booty
82,2001 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3701 - 82,2001



Print Page | Close Window