Shaft Rotation
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=74
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 9:18am
Topic: Shaft Rotation
Posted By: Guests
Subject: Shaft Rotation
Date Posted: January-04-2004 at 11:48pm
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Hi All,
I currently have the engine and transmission out for fresh ups. The boat is on chocks in my barn. When I manually rotate the prop from astern its relatively difficult to spin the shaft. Is this normal? I know the packing in the bilge will cause some resistance but I was wondering if it should not turn easier? I can turn it with one hand but there is quite a bit of resistance? Has anyone else ever encountered this? Thanks very much. Jerry |
Replies:
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: January-05-2004 at 1:50am
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the strut bushing will cause some friction since it is dry. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: January-06-2004 at 12:00am
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Also, since the engine and trans are out, your shaft with the coupling on it is most likely hanging free and downward and thus not aligned perfectly and putting even more friction on the strut bushing. ------------- ReidP /diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: January-07-2004 at 11:29am
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Thanks for the replies! I appreiciate your help very much.
Jerry USCG Retired, Litchfield CT |
Posted By: curbsidegold
Date Posted: January-13-2004 at 1:22am
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As long as we are talking prop shaft ... My (new to me) CC has been out of water for a number of years. Uncoupled from the engine, the shaft turns freely, with some resistance. Do you know if there are any bearings in there that might need to be greased, or will water lubricate the brushing? ------------- sm |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: January-13-2004 at 12:02pm
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there is a $40 strut bushing in the strut that has a recommended replacement interval of 300 hours. it is lubricated by the water.
if your prop shaft is out, you can inspect the bushing for wear. it is held in by a couple very small set screws in the strut housing. DON'T STRIP THEM. them there is a special tool to remove the bushing, but it is not a necessity. if it has siezed in the housing , but some proper size washers and some all thread will get it out. you may have two 2.5" or one 5" section. i would not judge it by a spin test. if you boat has been out of the water, the rubber will deteriorate from exposure. if you do remove it, a little never sieze will make 'the next time' easier. the hardcore racers run a fiber bushing. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: curbsidegold
Date Posted: January-14-2004 at 2:25am
Hey Tryan, you "Da Man!" Thanks ------------- sm |
Posted By: aldo
Date Posted: January-31-2004 at 7:16pm
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While we are talking packing box shaft seals.
I installed teflon packing material in both the prop and rudder shaft seals about 10 years ago and have been very pleased. There is far less friction and no grease is required. Also, after it "breaks in", there has been less adjustments needed. (Compared to the original). I'm using 1/4"dia smooth rope style bought from WW Grainger. regards Al |
Posted By: curbsidegold
Date Posted: February-10-2004 at 10:19pm
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Does anyone know where I might find a schematic of an inboard prop shaft and housing. I would like to replace the bushing and packing, but I am not sure exactly how it all fits together. Thanks. SM ------------- sm |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-10-2004 at 11:21pm
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elberts.com
notes........ soak the small set screws on the strut and shaft flange in pb-blaster for a couple days first. use the biggest screw driver that will fit on the strut. removing the rudder makes the job easier. if the set pins on the prop flange are siezed, i would just cut the shaft off and buy a double taper shaft from elberts. i trashed every drill bit i owned drilling a broke set pin out. replace all the flax packing while everything is out. never-sieze on everything as it goes back together. do a preliminary engine alignment when you reinstall the shaft and do a final alignment with the boat in the water. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: curbsidegold
Date Posted: February-12-2004 at 1:22am
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Thanks. The elberts.com site was just what I needed. It confirmed that what I have looks good, but if to much H2O cuts through, I now know where to go for upgrade. ------------- sm |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-12-2004 at 1:07pm
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i still support skidim for elberts products. vince and richard are an asset to the inboard community. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: tryan
Date Posted: February-12-2004 at 6:35pm
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i have seen a few shafts posted on various sites. most get severe wear at the shaft log and strut bushing from engine mis-alignment.
hitting reverse pulls on the set pins on a single taper shaft. this will wear a little groove in the soft stainless steel. once the shaft can start working back and forth from the forward/reverse cycles it will wear on the flange bore and cause vibration and alignment problems. this takes years, but most of our boats are as old as we are. 
the elberts double taper system and all stainless construction is a forever 'thing' and makes swaping the strut bushing a breeze. if anybody has never taken the time to align you motor, i suggest you do so. just my opinion and i'm sticking to it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=146&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - promo http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=192&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970 - #2 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-22-2014 at 1:17pm
I just happened to run across this old thread that a member was reading. I'd like to comment regarding Thomas's statement about the coupling set screw before the wrong idea is conveyed. First, the set screws are secondary to retaining the shaft and only there if the coupling/shaft become loose due to fretting from misalignment. Second is keep in mind that the shaft is primarily retained by the heat shrink fit of the coupling. Also, don't forget there's a key between the coupling and shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
tryan wrote: