Ford Interceptor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7587
Printed Date: January-18-2025 at 2:23pm
Topic: Ford Interceptor
Posted By: billlong
Subject: Ford Interceptor
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 3:09pm
Hello everyone, I am the proud new owner of a 1962 Correct Craft Compact Skier. The boat has been in storage for the past 14 years but is in basically very good condition. My first interest is to learn something about the engine and transmission. I see in the original literature posted on this site that the boat was available new with either an 85 hp or 100 hp Interceptor engine. I've always presumed that the Interceptors were Ford engines but maybe not. My boat is powered with a V-8 engine with Interceptor cast into the exhaust manifolds. It has two side draft carburetors. Can any of you give me any information about it? Any idea on where to purchase parts and manuals? Any help you can give me would be very much appreciated.
------------- Bill Long
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 3:46pm
Bill, It is the old Y block Ford engine and was marinized in the 272, 292 and 312 CI versions. You can get the manual from marineengine.com
Since it has 2 of the Carter YH carbs, It would be the 292 or 312. Rebuild kits for the carb are available and please don't let anyone talk you into putting a 4 bbl on it because you will then need to cut a hole in the dog house (engine cover) to clear the carb. I'm known as the purist here and encourage originality. There is nothing wrong with the carbs if the floats are set correctly. You will find people that will tell you that the rear carb was always leaking gas but that is because they didn't set the float correctly. I have the 312 in a X55 Dunphy and haven't touched them since I got it and rebuilt the Carters. That was 28 years ago!!
Congrats on getting the boat. You will have lots of fun with it. Keep this site in mind with any questions as it has the people that offer a valuable resource.
You may have the Dearbomatic trans. If it isn't nameplated as a B/W Velvet drive then it's the Dearbo. If you have problems with it our "on site" trans expert Eric will be happy to talk to you.
It is a plywood boat and shouldn't leak so don't let anyone tell you that it just needs soaking. They are totally incorrect. If it leaks, you will need to take a look at the bottom seams.
We need some pictures!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 5:21pm
A compact skier with a v8, we definitely need some pictures on that if its an original combo its got to be exceedingly rare.
-Joe.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 6:43pm
Bill, Joe has a very good point. Are you sure it is the Compact skier (16') and not the larger Tournament skier (18')?
Is there a HP decal on the valve cover? The HP will tell me if it is the 292 or the 312.
On the front cover above the tachometer drive ( you may have a mechanical tach so look for a drive cable hook up) the serial / ID number will be stamped in. Look for the number, post it and I can look it up in my manual. It will start with a single letter and then numbers. It tells what engine it is, the rotation (it will be reverse), the year, the type of water pump and which trans is on it.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 9:38pm
Hi Pete, Hi Joe, you guys are great! I knew there would be some experts out there. I'll get the information you mentioned off of the engine and trans and send in another post. Regarding pictures I have 4 that are imbedded in an email that I could forward to your email address, I don't have a clue how to included them in this post. Pete, I'm a bit of a purist also and plan to keep this boat as original as possible and yet have something that is functional. If I may I'll stay in touch with you guys. I'm experienced with Chris Crafts but this is my first Correct Craft. I haven't put a tape measure on the boat but I'm pretty sure it's smaller than 18'. The seller told me that it was sixteen feet And it says "Compact Skier" on the dash. I'll be posting some confirming information in a few days.
Regards
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 9:47pm
Bill, You can email me through my profile. Just click on it at the bottom of one of my posts.
Now, Are you a ACBS member and what part of the country are you in? I ask because you mentioned the Chris Crafts plus you now have the Correct Craft!
Edit: I did look in the ACBS directory and you aren't listed.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-19-2007 at 10:14pm
Hi Pete, I have an email that I can forward to you that has 4 pictures of the boat and engine. I would need your email address to do that and I didn't see it in your profile. I was a 4-year member of the Tahoe chapter of ACBS but dropped out a year ago because I'm into Chris Craft Cruisers and that group is all trailer boats. There was nothing there for me. I restored a 1960 32' Constellation and with your email address I'll send you a photo of that boat if you would like to see it.
Thanks so much for the help,
Bill
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2007 at 8:13am
Bill, I see you have found my email address in my profile and I have answered you back.
A 32' Conny is defiantly a major project. Do you still have it?
I'm sorry to here that you dropped out of the ACBS. It really doesn't cost much (I think its $35 now) to belong to the national as you do not need to be a chapter member. It, as this site is, a valuable resource for old boats. We have some members here that belong to the ACBS who are not wood boat owners. You may not be up to date being out for several years, but pre 69 fiberglass is in the "classic" catagory.
While you are struggling with the computer, you need to work on the posting of pictures on this site too. I know everyone would love to see them of the Compact Skier. If you get them to me, I can post them and note they are your pictures. It can get complicated to post here because you can run into size problems or wrong file types. Start by clicking on the tree with the up arrow icon and see what happens. You can also do a on site search to find threads that talk about it. Trust me, I've been there!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-24-2007 at 5:04pm
Hi Pete,
I presume you received the pictures I sent...any comments?
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-24-2007 at 5:21pm
Bill, No I haven't!! Unless I inadvertantly deleated them. Every morning I come in and find 30 or so junk emails that i need to deleat. Title them as Compact Skier so I won't miss them!! Then hopefully or damn firewall won't block them.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 10:20am
Bill, I got the pictures this morning and will post them here for others to comment on. As I mentioned in my return email, I've got the feeling that the engine isn't original but is period correct. That boat with that engine will be on the wild side!! Get it up and running, bring it to the GL reunion next year and it would run right next to all the "motor heads" !!
Edit: Bill, I'm having a real problem with the pictures!! Wrong image extentions and they won't upload on CCfan or photobucket! I'm working on it as my computer skills put me in the dangerous catagory!
Edit again!: Bill, I'm not having any luck with the pictures. I think it's because they came to me in the body of your email and not as attachments but I could be wrong. They won't save in my computer as jpg. files and I'm having problems changing them. Have you tried posting them on CCfan?
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 1:19pm
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 1:50pm
Kevin (hollywood), Thanks for the help! Now I need to figure out what I was doing wrong!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 4:17pm
Bill, How much information was the previous owner able to give you? I've been looking at the pictures as well as our ref. section. I'm going to have to say that the upholstered dog house is a dead give-a-way that the V8 is not the original engine.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 4:21pm
Man, those manifolds look like they would polish up really nice!!!!!
------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 4:57pm
Pete, the present seller has owned the boat for 14 years. Most of that time it was unused and stored in his garage. He told me the owner before him told him that the engine was rebuilt and "blueprinted". When we discussed what blueprinted meant (that's a term I'm familiar with) that seemed to fall apart. Maybe rebuilt but I doubt blueprinted. My seller said he has a lot of the original paper work including some receipts on the engine. I haven't seen any of what he has so I'll be very interested in getting my hands on it. My seller in the time he owned it did strip the hull and deck and refinished it. You can see that he never got to the bottom. I saw the same thing you did in the reference section. There is literature on a 1961 CC compact that has a wood finished engine box. My boat is upholstered so that might be a clue about the possibility of a repower. When I get the boat home next week I should have what paperwork the seller has and I'll be able to crawl all over and under the boat for a more thorough inspection. I'll send you some more information then.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 5:38pm
I just had another thought. My boat has two exhaust pipes because of the V-8 and if the "original" engine was smaller there would be only one. I'll look closer but I did look carefully at the transom when I was inspecting the transom to bottom seam and I didn't see where any exhaust holes were patched or new ones created. I can't wait to get the boat home to continue the inspection.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 6:12pm
backfoot100 wrote:
Man, those manifolds look like they would polish up really nice!!!!!
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They do polish up nice, and last pretty long as long as they haven't seen any salt. If there is any evidence of saltwater use in the past you have to keep your eye on them. I eventually couldnt make a good set out of the 4 that I had for mustange the but both sets were off salt water engines.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 6:32pm
Bill, Joe is correct about any aluminum exhaust manifold. You also need to know that the cooling circuit that Interceptor used started with a dual impeller raw water pump. From there the cooling water went to the both sides of the engine (dual circuit) however there is only a temp sender and gauge on one side. If you loose the cooling on the other side you will not know it! It doesn't take long for the hot exhaust gases to burn through the aluminum. The manifolds are non existent.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 6:36pm
Pete you are the man with a lot of knowledge of these old boats. what a pleasure to meet and to talk w/you at G/ Lake. boat dr
------------- boat dr
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier
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Posted By: 67nautique312
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 6:43pm
Bill,
Congrat's on the boat!
Paul,
------------- 1963 Classic (handed down to my daughter) 67 Riviera 68 barracuda 1971 Ski Nautique Promo 86 Silver Nautique 1995 Ski Nautique
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: July-25-2007 at 8:07pm
Thanks for the tip Pete, I'll treat these manifolds with care. In a few weeks when I get further into the project I'll be asking for some direction on where to find parts for things like water pumps etc.
Paul, thanks very much, 1st happiest day of my life! Love your 63, nice deck candy!
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: August-08-2007 at 8:51pm
Hi Pete & Joe...I'm back. finally got the boat picked up and home in my garage. Here's some of the information that was missing from our previous conversations. The boat's title shows it as manufactured in 1962. The title shows the hull number as CS434. I have found the number M165 stamped into several of the wooden components such as the seat backs and under the fordeck so I'm curious about why there are two numbers. On the front of the engine above the tach drive is stamped Interceptor No. 1R 211583. The name tag on the transmission says Velvet Drive model
10-17-004. And then there is a serial number. The motor box is made from mahogany plywood, varnished on the inside and upholstered on the outside. I looked carefully and cannot see any left over holes, cut-out wood or anything else that would indicate that the engine was not the original. The transmission however is a different story. The mounts for the transmission which are also the rear mounts for the engine are slightly wider than the engine stringers. Because of this the bolts (they may be lag bolts) that pass through the mounts into the stringers are at an angle rather then straight up and down like you would expect. There are wedges under these mounts that don't match the type of wood used elsewhere in the boat so I'm thinking that perhaps the transmission has been replaced. So, with this information I hope you can help me learn more about my boat.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-09-2007 at 1:05pm
Bill, I'm in northern Wis. on vacation. Not having a computer up here, I'm at the library and they only give you a 1/2 hour. I'll be back home on Tue. Right now I have a Acme prop to try on my Tique. We'll talk later!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-12-2007 at 2:48pm
Bill, Take a look at the engine # again. I think you have some numbers missing. I think there should be more in front of the "R". It would be the equipment code and will tell what trans came on it from Interceptor. It does sound like something has been changed over the years. I have seen CC do some weird things but never put in lag bolts on a angle. The CS on the hull ID confirms that it is a Compact Skier. The upholstered dog house still bothers me and I think something was done there. It should be varnished plywood.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: August-13-2007 at 2:54pm
Hi Pete, I took another look at the engine numbers and now that I have things cleaned up better I found that you are correct I had missed one letter. So, the correct number is Interceptor No. A1R 211583. The Compact Skier information on this sight says that the original boat did not have upholstered seats but rather finished in varnish. The photos show that the engine box is also varnished so I'm going to guess that someone along the way spent the money to upholster the whole boat. I'm sure all of the wood used in the seats is original because all of the pieces are stamped with the M165 number that I have found up under the foredeck. Thanks for your continued help.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-13-2007 at 7:35pm
Bill, I just got back from Wisconsin and of coarse not too excited about work tomorrow but that is life for me at this point! I have the book out and the first thing is it seems that a previous owner has been doing some "hot rodding" with the addition of the second carb. The "A" states it is the 256ci. single carb (135hp). A "B" engine would be the 256ci. dual carb (150hp). The next "1" is the equipment code and says it came with the Dearbomatic 1:1 (not the Velvet you have - so you are correct that it has been changed out). It also has a Sherwood water pump, special engine mounts and Mallory ignition, The "R" is the RH reverse rotation. The "2" says it was made in 1962 and the next numbers are the actual serial # of the engine.
Bill, take a peek under the upholstery on the dog house!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: August-13-2007 at 8:16pm
Pete, thanks so much, that's great information! Things don't square up with the Reference section on this site however. Page three of the Compact Skier price pages lists two Interceptor engine options the largest being 100 hp. What engine would you gess that is an in-line 6 maybe? Anyway I'm on my way cleaning the boat up and putting things back together, My seller gave me the boat and a couple of boxes of parts that he took off of it 14 years ago when he refinished it. I'm a long ways from being able to start the engine as I'm replacing most of the wiring,rerouting the shift cable and making some new floor boards. Starting the engine will be a project all to itself as I will want to proceed carefully and make sure all of the systems work and are cleaned before I "turn the key". do you think I will be able to get a manual and future parts for the engine?
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-13-2007 at 8:46pm
Bill, It was our ref. section that started me thinking it wasn't the original engine plus the length of the Compact would be more likely to have the 6 cyl. The 85hp Interceptor would be the Ford 144ci. and the 100hp would be the Ford 170ci.both in-line 6's.
You can get a manual for the engine at marineengine.com
Internal parts really shouldn't be a problem.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: August-14-2007 at 3:10am
Pete, I haven't had the guts to pull back the upholstery on the dog house but now that it is cleaned up better I found that it is stamped underneath with the same M165 number that I have found elsewhere on the boat. I did notice however that the dog house is about 4 inches shorter than you'd like it to be. It's so tight on the aft end that the shift linkage hits it when moved into reverse and the forward end is so tight the bolts that secure the water pump pulley have ground a hole 1/2 way through the plywood. If you look at the picture of my engine above (before cleaning) it looks like the forward end is rusted. It's not rust it's sawdust! So if this boat had a 6 cyl in-line originally, owners along the way swapped that out for a V-8, then did a manifold change to add a second carb, then swapped out the trans for a V/D and then upholstered the whole boat....whew!! This is getting so interesting I hope someday to know the whole story. I see you took Best of Show...CONGRATULATIONS!!!
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: MaddMarxx
Date Posted: August-14-2007 at 4:36am
Best of show
-------------
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-14-2007 at 8:12am
MM, That is a great picture. I like the way you caught the Correct Craft on the burgee. Thanks.
Bill, A new intake manifold wouldn't have been needed. The single carb used the same manifold with a block off plate over the other hole.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: August-15-2007 at 12:24am
[QUOTE=MaddMarxx] Best of show
As well it should be: what a beautiful job, Pete. Really enjoy the knowledge you share in your posts.
john
------------- "Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: August-15-2007 at 4:37pm
Pete, marineengine.com does have the engine manual that I want, but they do not have any Interceptor parts. Do you know of a source? I need immediately a set of valve cover gaskets.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-15-2007 at 5:38pm
Bill, I would just go down to Napa or equal and see what they say. It shouldn't be a problem but do avoid the big auto parts store chains. I avoid them anyway!!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-03-2007 at 11:10pm
I'm making good progress. my CC Compact Skier is looking better every day...Ran into a big problem however. I'm in the process of cleaning up the bottom and working hard on the the seams on both sides of the keel. Over the years previous people have slathered silicon caulk along the seams, then painted over it and later added more silicone. Obviously the boat leaks. I'm removing the silicone and having a hard time because over time and contaminated with paint and oil it has become sticky and gooey. I've tried lacquer thinner and acetone but neither solves the silicone so I'm rubbing and sanding. Anyone know of a better solvent? But, there's a bigger problem. Pete mentioned that likely I was going to find that the seams were contaminated with oil. Pete you were absolutely right I have about 18" of an oily mess about 3' back from the bow about where the bilge pump is located. My guess is that when the boat was put away some water mixed with oil was in the bilge and it puddled right in that spot. Anyone know how to degrease the area so that a new caulking will stick? (something like 3M 5200)
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-04-2007 at 6:05pm
Bill, Without flipping the boat over, you have gravity against you!! Brush some acetone into the seam to see if it may break down the goop. Mix a poultice of oil dry and a mild evaporating solvent like toulene and see if you can get some into the seam. You may also need to route them out with the Dremel tool and a small 1/8" dia. burr.
Damn, I hate silicone!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-04-2007 at 6:54pm
Pete, thanks for the reply. I hate silicone too! Is there any good use for that stuff? A Dremel I have and toulene I can get. What is oil dry? I'm not familiar with that product. Do you think there's a chance that I'll be able to get the seams oil free enough that a proper caulking will adhere?
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-04-2007 at 7:58pm
Bill, The oil dry is the granulated clay product that you spread on the floor to soak up the oil. Plain cheap cat litter is the same stuff. You can grind it to a finer powder by walking on it and then sweeping it up. It will get into a smaller crack that way.
The 5200 is pretty forgiving on oily woods. There are primers for teak. I know Sika makes one.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: RainDog
Date Posted: September-04-2007 at 10:22pm
Bill,
I had some xylene left over from thinning epoxy. I used it to clean up some wet 5200 that oozed out after I replaced a part on the hull. It dissolved it easily.
Maybe it would dissolve that silicone as well?
Any thoughts Pete?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1868&sort=&pagenum=1 - 62 Classic
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5242&sort=&pagenum=1 - 2002 Super Air
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-05-2007 at 8:05am
Steve, The Xylene and Toulene are right next to each other in their evaporation rate and their solvency. Not much difference. Also, nothing will dissolve cured silicone. The goo that Bill is seeing may be oil,paint and previous caulking leftovers. It is a problem that really the only real fix is to remove the ply, clean and then rebed the full joint with 5200 and not just the edge of the seam.
Bill, Is the ply tight to the frames? Any loose screws?
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-05-2007 at 9:42pm
Thanks Pete and Steve, I was pretty sure there wouldn't be a solvent for the cured silicone. Nasty stuff. I'm having the best results with 80 grit sandpaper. It clogs up real fast with the silicone but at least it does remove it. It's a tedious job. Pete, no I have not found any loose screws. Rather the bottom appears to be sound and the plywood is tight to the keel in most spots. I have reefed out areas forward where I have the biggest oil contamination problem and right under the engine. The rest of the seams on both sides of the keel are tight. I can't get even a knife blade or putty knife in there. I'm going to follow your suggestion and Dremel out the areas that are bad and then try the oil dry with a solvent and see if I can get things cleaned up enough that some 5200 will bond. Thansk so much for your help.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 2:11pm
Hello Pete, I'm making good progress. Some of the tips you have given me have really helped out a lot. Perhaps the best one is using a Dremel tool with a 1/8" bit to clean out the seams. So, maybe you have another tip that would help me. How can I prevent the 3M 5200 from dripping out of the bottom seams along the keel? I have them reefed out, cleaned and deoiled as well as possible and I'm getting ready to caulk. Can I use tape over the 5200 to contain it? or will the 5200 bond to the tape? Any suggestion here would be appreciated.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 2:19pm
Flip it over
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 2:45pm
Thanks Joe, not quite the tip I was looking for.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 2:56pm
Bill, The 5200 can get messy and runny at times. Fine line tape I don't feel will stick to the 5200 as the base is a polethyene but the adhesive on it may. I would do some test batches with it as well as plain blue painters tape on some scrap wood. It is going to be a multi handed job of getting the 5200 into the seam as the tape is put on at the same time. It's not going to be pretty unless you mask off both sides of the seam. I hate working on bottoms and will typically take the time to flip the hull just as Joe has mentioned. Be prepared for a long cure time. It all depends on the humidity but may take 4 to 5 days. It is the only draw back to the 5200. Do not use the fast cure because it doesn't have as good adhesion.
Edit: When you are doing the testing, you may want to try to remove the tape before it fully cures. See if the tape will pull cleanly from the 5200 without pulling it out of the seam. At a partial cure, you may even be able to tool the seam smooth.
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Posted By: billlong
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 3:48pm
Thanks Pete, if polyethylene is a material that 5200 won't bond to I can get some of that from work in both film and tape material. I work for xpedx and we're in the packaging materials business. I could place a light gauge poly film over the 5200 and then put masking tape over that to hold everything in place. I'm beginning to see that this is going to be a messy operation.
------------- Bill Long
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 3:59pm
Bill, Nothing really sticks to polyethylene and the reason they make glue bottles out of it!!! You may be on to something with the light gauge poly. It just may be enough to bridge the seam and form enough surface tension to hold the 5200 in. You may need to keep pushing it in with a putty knife for a day or so until it starts to thicken up. Then once cured, the poly will come off. The 5200 is available in small tubes to do some testing.
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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 4:41pm
Pete is a wealth of knowledge warehouse, and always willing to share.
One of my biggest problems is not asking , "maybe I don't know it all,and is there an easier softer way"??????
Keep this site rolling Pete,the do's and the DONT'S, also the been there done that. But the best one's are "Don't even think about doing this" complete with pic's...................boat dr
------------- boat dr
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