Help w/ first winterization
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8318
Printed Date: July-01-2024 at 7:54am
Topic: Help w/ first winterization
Posted By: danmaddog
Subject: Help w/ first winterization
Date Posted: September-09-2007 at 10:36pm
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Hey hey, wondering if there is anyone one in the Delano, Minnesota area that would be willing to help me on my first winterization of an 1982 Ski Nautique "2001"? I have read the threads but would really like someone with expereince to show me the ropes my first time. I will supply your beverage of choice for the project.
Looking to do it this week, as I am moving and need to end the boating season early. Thanks!! 612-481-4073 |
Replies:
Posted By: bill1
Date Posted: September-09-2007 at 11:47pm
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winterization, what is that? just kidding! don't do that in south georgia, other than draining water and putting a light under the motor on the 4 or 5 nights a year it gets under 32 degrees. ------------- bill |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 1:34am
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Dan, Dan, Dan, Don't winterize yet. Haul your boat with you and find a new lake. Where are you moving? There may be many CCfans nearby to help you out or tell you the nearest great ski places.
Seriously, I hope you find someone. But if you read the threads, like you say, you'll get it all without trouble. No need for extras...drink your beers with your wife or best buddies. ------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 7:50am
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Dan, Do you have the PCM manual? The job is only intimindating the first time! You need to think engine/cooling system and go at it. There should be pictures in the manual. You will have both sides of the engine, both exhaust manifolds, the water pump and trans cooler. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: fixitjim
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 2:03pm
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I drain everything but the transmission cooler. Never thought about that. I have been winteriziing my 93 Ski Nautique for 13 years and never had a problem. Is there a plug or hose to disconnect? ------------- fixitjim |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 2:08pm
Some have a drain plug, but its easier just to pull the bottom hose off. Dont forget the drain at the bottom of the elbow between the thermostat housing and circ pump. ------------- |
fixitjim wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 8:38pm
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Jim, A lot depends on the position of the trans cooler and how the hoses are routed. I would say however that you have been lucky to not end up with the trans fluid looking like a strawberry milkshake. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: danmaddog
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 8:53pm
| Thanks for the incouragement guys. I think I understand everything with the cooling system(draining the block and manifolds) pumping antifreeze through, fog the carb and cylindars but what I am supposed to do with the trans cooler??? I brought the boat to a shop to winterize it last year and I don't think they really did much. Some further explantion on what to do with the transmission winterization would be nice. Thanks! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2007 at 9:16pm
The trans cooler is in line between the water pickup and the raw water pump. You dont want it holding water, or it will crack and allow water into the transmission. Just pull the lower hose and let it drain.  ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 8:17am
I didn't get into alot of details so this is a good point. There should be a picture of this in the manual. It is a "U" shaped casting on the front starboard side of the engine. While we are talking about draining, I'd like to mention the addition of drain cocks. It makes things very easy after you install them. Use the more expesive cast brass ones with the removable stem. The removable stem makes it easy to probe for sand plugging up the hole. Do probe the holes with a piece of wire. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 1:09pm
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Dan, As long as we are getting into the details, we forgot to mention the raw water strainer if the boat has one. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 1:20pm
Here's the drain on the "U." 
Pete makes a good point on the strainer, though I dont believe they were installed at the factory in '82. I remove my strainer and RWP and store them inside (impeller removed) for the winter. I think the petcocks on the manifolds are more trouble than theyre worth. Theyre expensive and can easily clog with rust scale or sediment. A piece of step flashing is a good tool to keep the water off the carpet when you drain the manifolds. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 2:13pm
Tim, These are the drain cocks I have always used. They are less that $5 each and the stem (the whole center) is removable for easy probing for sand or sediment. I even find them as OEM equipment on Mercruisers. I think you may be thinking about the drain cocks you typically find on the bottom of a radiator.
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 2:21pm
No, Im thinking of the quick-drain ones offered by http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000 - SkiDIM. Whats the advantage of the drains youre using, Pete? Do they just eliminate the need for a wrench? Looks like you'd still need step flashing if you didnt want the manifolds draining onto the carpet. Even if Mercruiser is using them, I dont believe PCM or Indmar are. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 2:29pm
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I did a boat last year which brought drain hoses to one location, no one in thier right mind could screw that up...well maybe...it was a slick system ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 2:54pm
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Tim, Wow! I can certainly see what the concern on plugging is on the "drains" that Skidim sells. I wouln't use them on a engine with 2 raw water strainers! The advantage is yes no tools are required plus because when the stem is removed, it is very easy to screw back in due to the straight threads on the body and stem. Tapered treads aren't needed for a seal because there is a tapered seat in the bottom similar to a flare fitting. With a standard pipe plug with tapered threads, it can be a challenge to get them started without cross threading at times. I have had to chase treads with a tap from people goofing up the threads and plugs. I'm used to older boats before the days of the Raw water strainers and am always amazed at the amount of sediment that will settle at the drains. I've even seen cracked manifolds from "mechanics" not probing the hole when winterizing.
I like the step flashing idea but I have always found a small coffee can to work too. I have the small can with me anyway to use to pour in the antifreeze instead of out of the gallon jug. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: September-11-2007 at 3:06pm
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I think you guys are talking about 2 different things, unless the ones Pete put up come a lot bigger than mine. I have the same in my block drains and think they are better than the plugs.
It sounds like TRB is referring to manifold drains? I just have plugs there...and a 1/2" drive fits them well. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Joe Calcagno
Date Posted: November-11-2007 at 3:57am
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I have a 1984 Mustang 17 that my Dad bought new. It has a Ford 302 from the factory. The right side of the engine block doesn't have a drain cock at the rear of the engine at its lowest point. The drain cock on that side is forward, at the high point, so the water doesn't drain out properly. Does anyone have a good answer to my problem? Is there a way to install a drain back there? I have been using a rubber freeze plug on the rear most sand casting hole, but, getting it out is very difficult. It gets stuck and won't come out. I am looking for a freeze plug with a drain cock in it if possible. Anyone have an idea?
Joe Calcagno joe@rarecorvettes.com |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-11-2007 at 10:56am
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Joe, V engines have been set up that way from the start. I've never had a problem in 40 years and even back when just draining without antifreeze was the norm. I have lowered trailer tongues when they are on the trailer or just lifted the stern when they are hung in a boathouse and really have never gotten any more significant volume of water out. It would be a major issue if it was a big problem. The freeze plug is not the low point on the block so if you put a drain in one, you wouldn't be gaining anything. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |