Winterization
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368
Printed Date: November-21-2024 at 7:19pm
Topic: Winterization
Posted By: phospher
Subject: Winterization
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 7:45pm
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I hate to say this but in a few weeks I'm going to be winterizing for the first time. I don't want to pay a boat mechanic $375 bucks so I 'm going to try it my self. I've read a bunch of posts on this site and feel pretty comfortable doing almost everything myself. The question I have is where the heck are these "drains" that everyone speaks of? What do they look like, and how many are there? Anyone have any pictures of where the drains are located?
Thanks gents, |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-12-2007 at 8:10pm
There are 2 drains on the 351w block. This is the port side. The starboard side has one in a similar place, closer to the front of the motor.
There is a drain at the back of each exhaust manifold. 
Assuming this is a PCM, there is a drain at the U joint between the thermostat housing and circulation pump. 
You should also drain the transmission cooler by pulling the lower hose. 
Also drain your strainer if you have one. 
The RWP always holds water, so its best to remove it and drain it by disassembling, at the very least. I store mine inside with the impeller removed for the winter. If you have a heater or a shower, those lines need to be drained as well. ------------- |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: September-13-2007 at 2:29am
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Thanks for the detailed pics! Nice looking engine too. Mine is a 351W Commander but your pictures definitely help.
Thanks ------------- |
Posted By: OM45GE
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 10:42am
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Lots of great advice.
I also like to fog my engine before winter layup. Open the spark arrester/air filter and drip Mystery Oil in while the engine is running until it stalls out. I then squirt a couple of oz's of motor oil into each cylinder and paint a little Never Seize on the spark plug threads before reinstalling them. I also put the Never Seize on the block drain plugs. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 11:47am
More good advice here. You'll also want to put fuel stabilizer in the tank. Its wise to run the boat for a while afterwards to make sure it works its way through the carb. Add an oil and tranny fluid change, and thats just about a full winterization. ------------- |
OM45GE wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 12:14pm
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$375.00????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
f-k where do you live? Monaco? ive been wondering why people chuckle when i tell them 140.00 to winterize thier boats (oil changes extra) plus they line up in the fall form a friend told me to bring my boat here for winterization the problem is i think i should charge what i would pay, i guess i wont retire early ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 1:14pm
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Wisconsin. The marina in Oconomowoc quoted me that. It does include an oil change but not tranny.
So here is what I'm going to do for winterization. -Fill fuel tank 3/4 full. Add stabilizer and run into engine to make sure it get's into the carb and fuel lines. -Change oil -Change tranny fluid (BW Velvet Drive 1:1 Dexron Mercon III ATF right?) - Fog carb while engine is running until it bogs way down or dies. - Fog each cylinder a little bit. - Drain water from block, waterpump, and exhaust manifolds. How do I know it's all been drained? When I pull the plugs I assume that water will run out but won't a little bit be left behind? - Make sure all water is removed from bilge. - Remove battery and store indoors. Did I miss anything? Thanks fellas! - ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 1:41pm
Let me guess, Tinus Marine right? They sure know how to put up nightclub prices and they're really proud of their work 'aint they? Anyway, the list you have sounds good. I always got the engine warm and sucked up pink RV antifreeze through the RW pickup and didn't have to mess with draining everything but your method will work too. I would also drain the tranny cooler and the RW strainer if you have one. You'll have to detach the RW intake hose at the hull fitting to make sure all that water is drained too. I always loosened up the belts for the pulleys (alt. and RW pump) and relieved tension on the alt., RW pump, and circulating pump bearings. Others might disagree but I always felt that everything contracting even more as the cold weather comes in could put more stress on the bearings if the belts weren't loosened up. That was just me though. Everything else looks to be covered that I can see. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 1:54pm
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Oh by the way. If you ever do need service of some sort, I would recommend going to Lauderdale Lakes Marina in Elkhorn. I know that it's a little bit of a trip for you but they do good work and they are reasonably priced. At least they used to be. Tinus will rape you but they'll smile the whole time. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 2:06pm
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I do the same as Backfoot with my belts. Dont forget to drain all of the locations that I mentioned above. Once drained, I backfill with antifreeze. It gives me peace of mind that any low spots where water didnt drain wont freeze up and crack anything. The A/F should also help prevent corrosion in the cooling passages.
Otherwise, your list looks good- though I do mine in a slightly different order. I add the stabil first then run it up to temp. Fog the motor until it sputters out. Then I change the oils and drain the water. Remove the RWP and strainer bowl, then backfill with antifreeze. I usually put a couple shots of oil up the spark plug holes last. The most foolproof way to add the antifreeze is to do it per the PCM engine manual. That involves pouring it in the upper hose that attaches to the RWP (end of hose raised above engine level). You know youve put enough in when you hear it start to drain out of the riser into the exhaust, it takes about 3 gallons if I remember correctly. If you were to draw the A/F up without draining the block, I would be nervous that it wouldnt be circulated through the block enough (too diluted) depending on whether the thermostat is open or closed. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 2:16pm
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Tr, any updates on painting that trans? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 2:28pm
I think he should have you tear down the trans and then have the case chromed. It would then match the pipes! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 5:51pm
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yep you guessed it Tinus. I don't think I have a strainer on my raw water pump. The hose from the pickup just goes the the pump that's driven by the belt.
So If I want to add the RV (pink) anti-freeze into the engine I should just put 3 gallons into a 5 gallon bucket, diconnect the pickup hose and put that in the bucket? I assume I'll need to run the engine for a while, then pull the boat out of the water, disconnect the hose then drop it in the bucket. That way engine will be up to temp and thermostat should be open. I appreciate everyones help. So happy I decided not to take it to the marina and yes, if ever needed I will use Lauderdale. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 7:06pm
------------- |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 7:25pm
Good way to destroy the engine. How is 3 gals of anifreez going to properly displace 2 gals of water that is CIRCULATING. Your antifreez is all going to poop out the back. How will the tstat be open enough without a load on the engine? Just drain the block and manifolds and refill. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 7:36pm
If you need to pull the boat out of the water before you disconnect the RW intake, the thermostat might not stay open that long. I ran the boat in the driveway with a fake-a-lake and then ran it up to operating temp. Then shut it down and change the oil, then start it again and get to operating temp. Shut it down, disconnect the RW intake and put it in a 5 gallon bucket full of the RV antifreeze. Start it up again and run the whole 5 gallons through it. Just when it got to the end I would fog the carb until it died, pull the plugs and fog the cylinders. Never touched a drain plug anywhere. Did that for over ten years with no problems and also have two buddys that do the exact same for over five years each with no problems. Put stabil in the fuel before you start this whole thing so it circulates through the carb also. You absolutely have to make sure the thermostat is open before you run the antifreeze through. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: September-14-2007 at 9:43pm
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ok, got it. GottaSki lays it out perfect and I'll do exactly that.
I think this is going to be easier than I thought. When I re-tighten the drain plugs in the block I just need to snug em back up right? I just loosened one to see if water would run out and it wasn't very tight. And of course yes water ran out...... ------------- |
Posted By: dans
Date Posted: September-20-2007 at 1:54am
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You can also just remove the thermostat & pour it in that way if you want. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1404&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1981&yrend=198582 - 82 2001 |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: September-20-2007 at 2:35am
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Occonomowoc...Tinus marine....small, small world!
We use to go up each summer in the 70's & spend a few weeks on that lake! Bought owr first ski boat from Tinus( and an O'brien team comp)....went out skiing with Tim Tinus to demo the boat...is that dude still arround? ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: September-20-2007 at 3:06am
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no idea, never actually been there. i ski on little cedar and big cedar lake in slinger wi. ------------- |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-20-2007 at 11:52am
Yes, he runs the place now. Nice guy. When I first got out of the service, we lived in an apartment right next to Jane Tinus (Tim's sister) so I got to meet the whole Tinus family at one time or another. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: September-21-2007 at 12:23am
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Ditto on all the above...
I usually try to add fuel stabilizer prior to my last run of the year to ensure it is well mixed and run through all the fuel lines. Prior to storage, I TOP the tank off and add more fuel stabilzer to account for the additional gas I just added. A full tank helps minimize water condensing in the tank. Your earlier post stated you planned on filling it up 3/4 full. Others here know more than me, but that's what I do. I also re-grease the hubs on the trailer to get all any water out. |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: September-21-2007 at 3:04am
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Eddie; Nice not having to go thru all that anymore...isn't it?
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-21-2007 at 12:19pm
John, you got that right!!!! ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-07-2007 at 11:17am
how mant times is this gonna get discussed?..anyone ever use the search button?...
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2007 at 2:18pm
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Ryan, There are always new people to this site and they also may be new to boating and need info as well. This is the reason that Keith added this section in the forums.I myself have found that I too have made comments like "use the search". I do try to explain the search feature first as well as try to provide a link to the thread that may answer their question. New comers to the site may also need some time to figure out where and how to use some of the features. I'm not the best at the computer so I needed the time! Linking and posting pictures was a real challenge at first!
Maybe you missed BKH's very enlightening post so here it is again: bkhallpass Platinum Member Platinum Member Joined: 29 March 2005 Location: United States Posts: 1954 Posted: 04 October 2007 at 4:34pm | IP Logged | Report Post Quote bkhallpass If Keith wants to add new subsections to the forum, or a FAQ section, I think that's great. It will probably help folks navigate the site, etc. However, I am concerned that over the last several months, I have seen numerous posts where a new member to the site has asked a question only to be chastised to "look it up," "use the search function," "it's all been discussed before." The fact is, I could probably look up 90% of what is discussed on this site and find a detailed and more accurate response from another source. I don't think that's really the point of the site. Do you? Many of you have kids. I'm sure you'd be pretty upset if the teacher told your kid "I discussed this last year. Look it up. It's in the text book." Many of you are religious; attend church; some of you are even ministers. One could argue that there's really no need for a church or ministers when you can look it up. It's all there in the good book. Again, I don't think that's really the point. BKH __________________ Livin' the Dream 2001 Super Air ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-07-2007 at 8:02pm
| edit** |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: October-07-2007 at 10:16pm
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No...not everyone has a manual and yes you can download off the site. Not everyone is a do it your selfer and when they decide to tackle things themselves , posting and having discussion is a great way to learn! Plus some folks do things a bit different than the manuals read...if someone knows a better way to do it,I want to hear about it!
Ryan...were you born with this sh*t already in your head and never needed to ask a question? If so , your f***ing brillant. As for me , it was not...I once knew only how to start a boat and get it on and off the trailer...at that point ,I had to ask how to winterize too...better to ask when your new at something! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 7:53pm
| reread my post- came off a little different than it sounds..phos-didnt mean to sound like an a$$hole..i wll delete my post cause it didnt come out the way i was thinking |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 8:15pm
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Pete,
was that you or some one else using your name, suggesting Tim pull his tranny and have the case chromed. Doesn't sound storck or period correct to me. Just teasing you a little bit. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 9:00pm
That was indeed me! The comment was made that there was some rust on his trans so I was giving Tim a hard time! He, being such a meticulous person plus all his projects look so good that I needed to comment! I also thought it would compliment the exhaust pipe job he has done! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 9:07pm
Fair enough Ryan Sence 79 was'nt around , I had to be the bad guy!------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 9:19pm
Hey Gary, you have started to spell like Chris too!!!! "Sence 79 was'nt around" ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Umbilden
Date Posted: October-08-2007 at 10:30pm
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Here's a tip for winter - if your nautique has a heater, don't forget to drain it!
------------- '98 Ski nautique Recently seperated from my '82 http://www.umbilden.com - My Link |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-09-2007 at 12:56am
| no harm done.........heres another tip.....move south as the doc would say!..as for me i will enjoy the winter. gives me time to come up with some new plans /ideas and get some house work done..time to clean all the boats seats again and give all equipment a nice cleaning also.. |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-09-2007 at 12:59am
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Pete, was just messing with you earlier, I think Tim's boat would look great with a chrome tranny housing.
Once you drain the block, manifolds, strainer, and RWP and run anti-freeze through the system. I would think that it would fill the heater core with anti freeze or am I wrong on this. ------------- |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-09-2007 at 2:03am
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You are correct on the heater core James, it is a good idea to disconnect the supply and return and blow through them with your lungs to purge all water first.
If equipped with a shower I run the pump to drain the water out of that system as well before filling with A/F. There are a couple more items I can add, on the newer boats (in the trunk of our 206) is an ECM (I think that's what it's called), the speedo water lines go to this module, they should be disconnected to drain properly, it is also a good idea to completely remove the module and store indoors. What can help lengthen the life of the steering cable is to spin the wheel back and forth several times every couple weeks to help keep the cable lubed. Don't forget the bounce dryer sheets throughout to keep the mice away. I followed Eddie's sequence for many years without incident, on my current boat I now drain everything first and then run A/F through the system while running the engine. I also like to change the oil before the final running to ensure fresh oil is in the crankcase for the last time it runs. Here is a question for Eric: Recently read a post saying "overfill the tranny with fluid for layup, basically the entire case, then drain to the proper level in the Spring", what do you think, good or bad idea? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: jdkenyon
Date Posted: October-09-2007 at 1:25pm
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I winterized my boat last night and found one more thing to put on the list if your boat has it. The fresh water flush. Mine has a hose running from it to the stern and it was still full of water. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1955 - 94 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-09-2007 at 7:56pm
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I change my oil when I winterize it, how many guys change it again in the spring when they get it out? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 9:36am
I have always just done it once in the fall when winterizing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Umbilden
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 12:07pm
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I do not change my oil in the fall. The additives in oil are much better than they used to be, but they still break down. I feel much better having fresh oil in the spring, when the engine is going to be ran, rather than fresh oil for storage. The situation would be different if I knew my engine had problems leading to contaminants in the oil.
------------- '98 Ski nautique Recently seperated from my '82 http://www.umbilden.com - My Link |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 12:15pm
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Maybe my thinking is old school with todays additives. I've always believed that geeting any acids that may have built up over the summer is better than leaving them sit over winter. I remember seeing main bearings that looked like Swiss cheese because of the acids from blow by. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 1:23pm
I can tell by your bitterness it's probably really skinny, but small enough to refer to it as a "cable". Wow, now I really feel sorry for you. ------------- |
Posted By: Umbilden
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 1:25pm
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I am no expert in this area - but shouldn't most of the acid problems be a thing of the past with the new low sulfer fuels of today? ------------- '98 Ski nautique Recently seperated from my '82 http://www.umbilden.com - My Link |
Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 3:13pm
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87
Don't like to see the forcasted 37 degrees coming thursday night. brrrrrrrr I don't even want to think that the boat is ready for it's winter prep. Don't even say it jbear 
Lefty ------------- Play hard, life's not a trial run. '85 BFN '90 BFN White Lake, Michigan |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 3:25pm
Not necessarily. Granted it's probably much less than it used to be but completely eliminated. No way! The oil has been subjected to hours of use and has picked up numerous contaminants that are byproducts of blow by, microscopic metal pieces, condensation(yes, your engine can condensate from the inside under the right conditions), and probably numerous other forms of contaminants that only a physicist can understand. You want to get rid of all that crap before you subject the engine to just sitting there for months so that it doesn't rust from the inside out. It isn't an issue of you only need clean oil while you're using it. You need clean oil more so when you aren't using it for prolonged periods of time. Why do you think that you fog the cylinders? It prevents rust. Do you use drain oil for that? Absolutely not. It's very important to warm up the engine, drain the oil, put in fresh oil and run the engine again to make sure that all that fresh oil has circulated through the engine to coat it entirely essentially fogging it from the inside. Now there are no contaminants that can damage your engine in any way from the inside while it's put to bed for the winter. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 10:44pm
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My question still remains does anyone also change it again in the spring before use. As the oil has sat for 3-5 months for those of us that do not live in the south, (jbear,MM,Backfoot,Boat Doc) to name a few. Thus while sitting it has been breaking down, and built up condensation.
Tull, Not winterizing yet just asking a few questions, we are skiing friday. Plus I promise one of the boats wont be winterized alteast until November 1st. I owe Hollywood a pic of me skiing without a wetsuit in October. I am shooting for the 31st. ------------- |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 11:42pm
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Pete...I Kant spel 4 sh*t, butt I did spell around write did'dt eye??? SENCE...got it , it did look wrong I dispronounce stuff two! Please correct me when I mess up!
Oil change in the fall and spring...I do , but after a few times out in the spring...oil is cheep protection...well , unless you use Royal Purple(which I started doing in the promo). Great stuff and no it is not leaking even though it's synth! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: October-10-2007 at 11:44pm
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Pete I re-read the post and it looks ok to me??? Love the edit function! ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-11-2007 at 1:13am
James, don't you mean December?  Have fun on the new boat this weekend. Water is still in the upper 60s around here, we'll be out
Saturday.
------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-11-2007 at 10:31am
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Quinner, youve learned well young Luke, fill the trans to the top and drain in the spring, it helps prevent rust build up in the case and helps keep the seals saturated in oil ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-12-2007 at 8:12pm
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Hollywood,
I have no problem showing you a pic of skiing in December as I have alrady done it. But another december run this year is no problem. I do wear a wet suit in december. You said you wanted proof of skiing in October with no suit, so I will provide you with this proof. November skiing is a little tough to fit in due to deer season. ------------- |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-15-2007 at 10:54am
-Don't forget to drain the water from the transmission oil cooler. TRBenj shows it in his photos on the first page of this thread. there is a drain plug on the cooler. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-15-2007 at 11:51am
...but its easier just to pull the lower hose off. ------------- |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-15-2007 at 3:01pm
okay- Just don't want the guy to miss it. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: 20th Century
Date Posted: October-20-2007 at 1:32pm
| Quick question. I only put 5 or 6 hours on my boat this season. Didn't get it functional until mid August. I probably won't put more than 25 hours on it next season. I am seriously considering not changing the oil. It has been in there since last fall, but the engine made such good pressure and the oil is the older stock rotella 15/40 with all the zinc. Being a diesel oil it should be loaded with detergents. What do you think? |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: October-20-2007 at 2:30pm
I'm with you. I'll have about 10 hours of use on my oil, which is Valvoline Racing oil. I'd think the chemists that worked on the detergent formulas would quit their jobs if they heard we changed the oil after 10 hours, feeling that all their work was for nothing  . Mine will stay in until mid summer next year.------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-20-2007 at 2:46pm
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Oil breaks down over time. I know you put very few hours on your oil but, you have introduced impurities to the oil.(pardon spelling ithere are mispelled words. Late night last night.) Those impurities will continue to break the oil down and cause a build up of acid in the oil pan. Oil's cheap in my opinion change it. ------------- |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-21-2007 at 3:03am
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Hey Lefty;
How's the weather? Not to cold here yet.....88 today. How is the wing doing? Cast off yet? john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 12:36pm
How long is this oil sitting in warehouses, freight trucks, then the store shelves before we even dump it in our engines? ------------- |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 7:31pm
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Hollywood, the oil in warehouses have not been exposed to impurities such as gas. That is when oil starts to degrade and break down. Above they said they have run their boats for about 10hrs. Close to halfway a usual oil change period. I should have made sure I linked the oil breaks dow over time because of the impurities. I am sorry for that, didn't mean to be misleading or imply something different then what I was talking about. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 12:20pm
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here's the age old question, should you change the oil in the spring or in the fall? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 12:44pm
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So, whats the answer Eric? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 12:53pm
In what part of the country? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 2:37pm
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Eric,
I think the fall is more important, so the dirty oil does not sit all winter, I like the idea of fresh clean oil being the last thing the motor gets before it's 4-5 mo rest. I normally do not change again in the spring, run that oil for about 25-30hrs then change it, that oil then gets about another 30-50hrs before it's winter again. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 3:03pm
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quinner: Down here we....ahhh forget it. Hate to rub it in. Just know you guys are always welcome down here...we get to ski lots.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 3:30pm
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I say the fall so all the acids wont sit in the pan, but if you wait till the spring you have a better chance of removing the condensation build-up, in the spring though you want to drop her in and goooooooo so the fall is good enough for me ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 11:13pm
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Hey Eric (or other helpful guys),
I just winterized my dad's 351 OMC (it's a Four Winns I/0, but don't tell anyone) about 1994. I pulled the hoses off the front of the manifolds, drained the engine block, and pulled the hose that runs back to the power steering unit (I think that's where it went) and drained it. The manifolds do not have a drain on them, just a rubber hose plug on the back of them which I can't get off (at least without tearing them up because of access). So, my question is: Did the manifolds drain enough by pulling the front hoses? I put the pink anti-freeze back in all the hoses till full, in both manifolds and block. Thanks for the help. Chuck ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 9:32am
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you should be ok, in that situation i would drop the tongue on the trailer, its when you leave all the water in and it has no place to expand and the water cracks from being frozen ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 9:53am
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Thank you Eric ------------- Walk on Water www.coldwater.me http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 11:09am
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my best non winterization story is a record, 11 hours on the boat, crack doesnt describe this one, more like explode, I wouldve like to hear this one let loose
------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 11:11am
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In the winters while building our super highways in the 40's and 50's, they would drill down thru the rock and fill with warm water and when it froze guess what happened ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 7:13pm
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uhhhhhhhh it exploded
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 10:33am
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no, it just cracked ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: weitekampt
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 12:57pm
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You guys have touched on a topic that I have been debating for a long time. Fall change vs. spring change. Last fall I didn't change my oil (which was stupid) because I would rather have fresh oil in the spring. No damage, but I am going ot change the oil in the fall....then again in the spring.
Here is the real question. I have been known to break the boat out of storage for a December ski or even January 1st ski. I have the old 15/40 rotella but I don't want to run that oil when it is 30 degrees out. What weight should I put in for winter operation? If I do get it out, it will only be for a few hours. Can I just get some Penzoil 10/30 or something that will flow better when cold? Should I drop to a 5/30? Remember, I will be putting the Rotella back in when spring rolls around. So this lighter weight oil will be for storage reasons and possibly a winter ski only....then dump. What are your thoughs??? ------------- 1993 SkiNautique ProTec 2009 Boatmate trailer. 1240 hours on meter. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1559&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 1993 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 1:31pm
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Todd, I think PCM recommends 10w30 when running at low temps. Someone posted the page out of the manual... Joel?
I only change in the fall- Id normally say that theres no need to change again in the spring- that is unless you want to switch to a heavier weight. Maybe run the lighter weight through the early spring? ------------- |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 1:53pm
For winter skiing my manual says 20W50. Otherwise it's 40W40 for >= 50F and 30W30 for < 50F startup temps. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 8:34pm
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Weitekampt - How about posting a video clip of the next polar bear run? I hope you're good a dock starts!
Chris ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: weitekampt
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 1:06am
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Oh Yeah! If we go this year, we will definitely get some video. I have a drysuit so I have plenty of fleece on. Renee is wrapped in her 12V blanket and carhart bibs. She's a real trooper. What is great about Jan 1 is you don't have to pack ice in the cooler! ------------- 1993 SkiNautique ProTec 2009 Boatmate trailer. 1240 hours on meter. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1559&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 1993 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: weitekampt
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 1:08am
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Oops, Joel, thanks for the info on weights. There is no way in hell I am running 20/50 oil in my motor in the winter. Heck, I don't run that in the summer! My motor would buck and shake and probably blow up from pumping snot! I did that one winter and swore I would never do that to my oil pump again!
I think that 10/30 is a little more tame for winter operation. Thanks again!! ------------- 1993 SkiNautique ProTec 2009 Boatmate trailer. 1240 hours on meter. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1559&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 1993 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: weitekampt
Date Posted: November-07-2007 at 1:04pm
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I changed my oil last night along with winterization. I would assume that many others have the oil drain hose they can stick through the hull to drain oil. Does everyone else feel that they get a good drain? I try to make sure that the hose is as straight as possible, but always feel like there is a possibility to leave some in there.
Is there anything on the market that you gearheads would recommend running in the engine to clean up the pan and inners of the motor? I did run a engine flush additive in my car once. Basically pour in (1 quart) of this motor flush and run for 5 minutes then change the oil. Any thoughts? Put 10W30 for winter oil and will immediately change to Rotella in spring. Thanks for the input. ------------- 1993 SkiNautique ProTec 2009 Boatmate trailer. 1240 hours on meter. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1559&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 1993 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-07-2007 at 1:17pm
Mine drains very slowly, even when the oils been warmed up. By the time it stops, Im pretty sure there is a full 5qts that comes out. Never tried anything to clean up the internals- as long as its had regular oil changes there shouldnt be any sludge. My motor looked great when torn down last year at 1150 hrs. If the boat was neglected for a few years, maybe try Seafoam or some ATF in the crankcase. If you go with Rotella in the spring, make sure its either straight 30w or 40w. The 15w40 doesnt have the zinc additives anymore. I switched to Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 this year for that reason. This fall, I put in 2 qts of 10w30 and 3 of the 20w50. Ill report the oil pressure results in the spring. ------------- |
Posted By: weitekampt
Date Posted: November-09-2007 at 1:05am
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Darn, I bought the rotella multiweight thinking that was what had the addative in it. Not a problem, I'll just use it in my tractor or diesel truck. But this spring I will get the straight 40W I would think if I can find it. I know I can get 30 at Rural King. Thanks for the update Tim. I have gobs of oil pressure even if I use 10W30. I feel that is pretty accurate because it was higher before I ran new ground wires to my gauges. After the new wiring, it came down just a bit, but it isn't 80lbs like it used to be. More like 60 at idle if I remember correctly.
Again, thanks for the update on Rotella. Actually I think I am going to use CenPeCo diesel oil. I had a oil analysis taken out of my truck at 6k miles and they said there were very low level of wear and the oil addatives were holding up great. I take an oil sample every 20k miles just to keep track of how the PowerStroke is wearing inside. I have used Rotella for 125k and it was great oil. I have played with numerous oils after that and they are all great. What do you think about the Rotella 5W40 synthetic? I know it has been discussed somewhat (at least synthetics). But I wonder if the synthetic rotella has the ZDDP? I think it is the same formualtion as previous years. I run the synthetic in the winter on my diesel truck. It really likes it then I switch back to dino oil after April 1 or so. So what do you think about running this synthetic rotella 5w40 in the summer? I'll splurge if people think it is a decent idea. Reason I ask is I normally get 60 or so hours a year. I hate changing oil at 50 hours in September just to change it a few hours later prior to winterization. I know another oil question, but I don't know the specifics on our motors and if synthetics will be bad. I think the theory of synthetic oil will cause leaks has been debunked. I swithch all the time in my truck with no leaks. Plus it's a diesel...who hasn't heard of a diesel that leaks! It it is bad on the valvetrain or something let me know, but this oil is affordable and I think it is a great alternative to the super expensive Mobil 1 stuff. Later ------------- 1993 SkiNautique ProTec 2009 Boatmate trailer. 1240 hours on meter. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1559&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 1993 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-09-2007 at 1:03pm
Thats the real question- and I dont know the answer. Boat Dr spoke with a chemical engineer from Shell who was intimately familiar with all their oils- if he saved her number that would be the person to ask. ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 1:09pm
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Ok back to winterization. We finally gave up on the season 2 weeks ago.
This worked out so well kept warm and dry the whole time with the help of a kerosene force air heater, irregardless of the outside weather. Pete, I still can't believe you winterized your boats Labor Day weekend, that seems so long ago! 
Ran a hose from the utility sink just inside the house straight to the trans cooler. 
Trying to show how easy the hose actually collapses. I barely got to 2k rpm and still sucked a lot of air. At idle the water supply was able to keep up with the RWP. http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/kfleisch/?action=viewt=MVI_1615.flv">  ------------- |
Posted By: Geno
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 5:19pm
| Pull inside. Turn on thermostatically controlled heater. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 5:38pm
*Hope you dont lose power when its cold. ------------- |
Posted By: Geno
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 6:17pm
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3 generators in the shop and another that's dedicated to the house.
I would have to drive ten minutes to the shop and crank one of the generators. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 7:03pm
*Hope you dont lose power when its cold and on vacation. ------------- |
Posted By: Geno
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 7:19pm
No doubt!! I did pull the block plugs and plan to pull the exhaust plugs now that I know it has them. Can you tell I'm new to this whole "car engine in a boat" thing? 
Actually going to change all the fluids at some point soon, she already has stabil (in a mix of new and 3 year old fuel- mostly new) and I'll probably pour some anti-freeze in her for the two or three nights a year we have below freezing temps. ------------- |