Anyone with a duct-u-lator?
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Printed Date: December-25-2024 at 8:53am
Topic: Anyone with a duct-u-lator?
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Subject: Anyone with a duct-u-lator?
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 8:04pm
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Working on a project and my duct-u-lator is at work. Does anyone who is into HVAC or related have one handy? I need to know the CFM at .1 SP (residential) for 100' of a 3.25 x 14 duct. You would think with todays internet I could find it but can't!! I've googled without success. Lots of software for sale thought!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Replies:
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 11:57pm
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pete, My buddy says 145 cfm, and this is figured 3.00 x 14. he could not figure on the 3.25 but this is what he would use as a benchmark. this is roughly the same as 6.5 in. round.......
Hope this helped,he called at 8:30 and yes he was on a boat, catching Red Fish, and yes he limited out............ ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 6:56am
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Much thanks for the help Doc. I'm at work and have my duck-u-lator in front of me now. Your friends figure is right on (I never doubted that it wouldn't be!) The 3 and a 1/4" is a standard duct width for a 2x4 wall so with the extra 1/4" of width, the duct-u-lator reads a extra 15 CFM at the same .1 SP.(it's now 160CFM) You had asked about the SP. It is actually static pressure in inches of water on a manometer for ducting that is used to measure the friction created. You're probably familiar with inches of vacuum for syncronizing multiple carbs. Same thing only bacerds!!
I'm trying to see if I can get the size duct I need down a wall without bumping it out into a duct chase. The next standard size of ducting is 8" width. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 3:30pm
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Question for you HVAC guys. I need a new boiler for my house (baseboard heat). I am looking at Slant Fin boilers. What's the word on these? It's replacing a 40+ yo Peerless boiler and I thought that I wanted to replace it with a Peerless but now I don't know. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 5:44pm
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MM- I'm no HVAC expert, but my plumber friend likes http://www.buderus.net/ - buderus boilers. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-29-2007 at 7:05pm
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any questions you guys have id be more than happy to help out..how i make my living..
mark- carrier performance 90 or other models..the 90 has the cast aluminium heat exchanger and is a 90 %..trane makes both a gas and oil boilers thats just as well imo also..as barracuda stated buderus is a good product also but can be more of a pain in the ass to install due to the programming...is there a reason why you want to stay with the boiler set-up? complete systems are cheaper going with forced air(if adding a/c). |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 1:30pm
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I have air ducts for the central air but will not go to forced air due to sinus issues and my wifes asthma which will not be helped with the dryness of forced air.
The Slant Fin was under consideration because it's what the plumbing supply house that I go to and is very friendly to DIYers carries. I was thinking of installing it myself. Although I'm not sure how I'm going to get the monster peerless out and up the steps by myself. I also need to replace the water heater and was thinking of getting the coil in the boiler instead. Would this work well? I don't want to run out of hot water. The old boiler has a domestic coil in it but it then feeds in to the old electric water heater. Not sure why they ran it that way. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 2:41pm
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You may want to look at this one too. It's what I'm going with and with the domestic hot water as well.
Weil-McLainŽ Ultra Condensing High Efficiency Gas Boiler ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 3:30pm
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Carrier, Trane ?!?!? Ryan you are taking food out of the mouth of my children.. ok I don't have kids so its more like taking premium out of the gas tanks of my CorrectCrafts. I guess I can't complain too much because even though I work for the worlds second largest hvac company (Carrier is 1, Trane 3) we don't currenly sell residential boilers in the us.
What other HVAC industry lurkers do we have out there? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 4:48pm
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MM- We have a Weil McClain propane boiler and super store HW tank- The system has been very good to us since we've owned the house. From what I've been told the super store HW tanks are very efficient.
I'm with you on the hot water vs force air heat. Rip out your radiators and retrofit some radiant under the floors  We love the radiant heat!------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 5:07pm
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I have radient heat in my shop on the ceilings, man its efficient and it warms everything you touch up, it really is nice compared to forced air ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 10:12pm
| well we know who has the deep pockets on here(barracuda)!! wirsbo is some pretty slick stuff and very easy to install...sorry joe, but imo those are the top two in the hvac industry..speaking of h20 tanks ..go instant hot!!!things kick ass |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: October-30-2007 at 10:36pm
Runing all the tube was very time consuming but like you say, easy to install. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
ryanandrews wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 8:27am
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Be very carefull on the UNDER floor install. You will need to go through the btu losses of the house. You will only get a max of 30 btu's per sq. ft. The prefered method is ABOVE the sub floor (in floor). There are several IN floor retro fit methods as well as a floor system that replaces the sub flooring. The gypcrete (above floor) is now considered to have too much thermal "lag". IE: on hot to cold days/nights it takes too long to react. Even with the IN floor, supplemental fin tube in troughs may be required in front of large glass areas like sliding doors. The floor covering is also a major concern. All hydronic floor heating must have the floors insulated. Along with my Weil Mclein boiler, I plan on going with the Warmboard product which is the subfloor substitute. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 11:16pm
| 8122- im a lil confused on your post...never ever ever should sub floor heating(wirsbo etc)be used to try and heat your home as a sole or even an additional heat source.. its an ambient extra that will warm your floors..thats what its ..i have personally never seen anyone try and use it incorporated into their "home heating system".. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 6:41am
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Ryan, It's done all the time. It just may not be popular in your part of the country. Do the calculations with 30 btu per sq. ft. as a base line. Figure in all your losses on all sides of the house. You do need a house that is insulated well. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 12:39pm
Works fine for us as the primary heat. My plumber buddy uses it as primary heat for his entire home and installs it for many others too. You're right- you need to calculate your heat needs- the professionals will size it for you and tell you if you need any supplemental runtal to cover large rooms, high ceilings, etc. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 2:26pm
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Ryan, Run the load calculations using a R50 for the ceiling, a R19 for the walls, a R21 under the floor and a R2 for windows/doors. (The R2 is about average for a double glazed window). Use a delta T of 90 degrees and see what you get.
The R factors are currently about what the DOE is recommending. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 2:39pm
| Gas forced is a cheaper option,but that only depends on how much you want to spend.Depending on the new seer ratings on all these new units your better off changing everything.Especially since you can't use the old a-coils with these new condensing units.If you went gas force there are so many different filtering systems out there for people with asthma and allergies.Its woth a look at least.If you are going to stay at that house for a long period of time,you may think of going geothermal.Its alot up front in terms of money,but you will recover your money pretty quick.It also depends on where you live.You could also do heat pump with a second stage gas heat and a electric backup for emergency heat. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 3:31pm
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[QUOTE=bmiller] If you are going to stay at that house for a long period of time,you may think of going geothermal.Its alot up front in terms of money,but you will recover your money pretty quick.It also depends on where you live.[QUOTE]
Now we have someone talking sense, fossils are only going to be getting more expensive. The future is coming. If I was building a new house I would be drilling geothermal wells. If I was planning a new development I would install community wells/ponds.. Love in floor radiant heat btw, especially for a garage, built my brother in law a woodstove boiler and an in floor system for his workshop and it is awesome. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 3:57pm
Now I know how jbear feels in the engine threads.  ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 6:58pm
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Hollywood, it took me a minute but i busted out laughing, I havn't laughed that hard in a while.
Eric ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 7:05pm
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Its to bad they couldnt pipe the water from the cooling towers from the nuke plants, we would jet-ski by the water outlets where it bubbled about 500 yards out in the lake and that water was hot, there would be enough BTU's in the water to heat a community, plus it is free heat, whats a little radiation poisening, were talking about millions of gallons of hot water, no fossil fuels being burned. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 7:53pm
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Guys, Thanks for the input as it is appreciated.
I've had a few years to do a lot of research plus I do have a friend in HVAC so I really feel I'm making a sound decision. I'm going with in floor. This is on my little lake house in northern Wisconsin that will be getting a total remodel and major add on for my retirement house. I do not need AC as there typically are only 2 or 3 days a summer when its needed. The evenness and the comfort of in floor is the major factor. Without the need for ductwork and the use of Warmboard (the sub floor replacement) in floor really isn't that costly. The big item is the condensing boiler and the second are the pumps/flow zone controls. I did look into geothermal with the hydronic but with our cooler climate, plus all the trees my only option was some fairly deep extraction and injection wells. 3 years ago I went through getting a new water well and at $6000 did not want to add 2 more.(we also have some rather strict regs on process water well location to potable water wells) I love the idea but do not want to get into a overly complicated system in the north woods with the only repairman who understands it is 150 miles away!! HW, don't come down on Jbear too much. He does do his own oil changes so that's a lot better than some! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 9:36am
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remember the guy who changed his 4 spark plugs and didnt know there were 4 more on the other side ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 11:11am
Pete, I was only teasing the man. He's actually quite the gearhead nowadays. We couldn't get him in a foot line or shot ski line at the P.P. until he had that '80 running "just right".
 ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 11:13am
I still tell it to people and even some women find it hard to believe. Well, I think as it turned out, he and his brother went and got a friend who was more mecanically inclined. Don't forget that he first bought 4 plugs for a 350 GM and found out it was the 351! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 11:19am
HW, I don't see any tools in his hands in the picture. Is this a new technique of starring at the engine and wishing it runs better? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 11:49am
I think it is Pete. JBear must have learned that trick from HW. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 12:59pm
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it really looks like he's painting his toe nails in the picture, probably to match those Bermuda's ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 1:32pm
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Pete- things that will add up on you quickly when installing the radiant
-Quick track (look closely at the aluminum under floor tracks- the heat transfer rate is very good with these- don't just hang the tube with hangers. -Manifolds (# of zones will play in here) -Mixing valve (get the motorized one) -Controller (you can get fancy here) -Labor Check out http://pexsupply.com/index.asp - Pex Supply if you haven't already. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 7:43pm
Brad, You may have missed it when I mentioned not wanting to use the below floor method. It is not the most efficient method and it is rather labor intensive to install the tubing and aluminum plates/tracks. This is the Warmboard that I mentioned that takes the place of the subfloor.
Here's more on the Warmboard: http://www.warmboard.com/ - Warmboard web site You are correct regarding the other items adding up! I've gone through the floor plan a couple times to see about reducing some of the zones. It's tough because you really want all the rooms separate! Edit, quote from Warmboard: Floor Warming vs. Floor Heating "Floor warming is sometimes used in small areas such as bathrooms for the sole purpose of warming your feet when you get out of the shower. This is usually done electrically by embedding resistive wires or mats in the setting materials under the tile. This method is rarely the primary heat source of a home. Floor heating refers to radiant systems that are installed throughout most or all of the floor area of the home. Almost any modern well-built home, regardless of climate, can be comfortably heated with a radiant floor heating system as its sole heat source. In fact, a Warmboard system is the primary heating system for several buildings at the U.S. Research Station in Antarctica." ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: November-02-2007 at 9:38pm
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Gotcha- That will be nice heat for you. No need for slippers in the dead of winter
------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-04-2007 at 6:51pm
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Ryan Andrews, Email me through my profile if you want. I noticed that you are keeping your email address private and I respect that. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-11-2007 at 11:18am
Ryan, Since you didn't contact me, I have to assume that you have found out a few things about whole house radiant heating. If not and your contacts in the HVAC industry still haven't given you the proper information, get in touch. Did you ever get a chance to run the BTU loading? Go back to the last house you did. What were the figures on say a properly insulated 3000 sq. ft. 2 story? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: RainDog
Date Posted: November-12-2007 at 8:48pm
I own (with a partner) a building automation system contracting company. While we do fully integrated systems (security, access, digital surveillance, lighting, HVAC), we primarily design/build turnkey enterprise class HVAC control systems. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1868&sort=&pagenum=1 - 62 Classic http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5242&sort=&pagenum=1 - 2002 Super Air |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: November-12-2007 at 9:13pm
| Raindog,what controls do you sell for your bulding automation systems,Seimens,Honeywell,or TAC?I work myself with TAC controls at the Hospital that I work for. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-12-2007 at 9:23pm
| 8122- learn something everyday...just noticed a few of your post..havent been on here in a while..basically its cheaper to go forced air if you want cooling also..if not radiant and boiler systems are a good look also..all depends on what you want and want to spend i guess.. |
Posted By: RainDog
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 12:31am
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I own Johnson Controls. Ever heard of them?
Um, well, not really. TAC, specifically Andover Controls. Our company has been an Andover dealer since 1980. b, where is your hospital located? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1868&sort=&pagenum=1 - 62 Classic http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5242&sort=&pagenum=1 - 2002 Super Air |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 12:55am
| Raindog,yeah I've heard of Johson controls before.The hospital that I work at is located in Edgewood,Kentucky.Its about 10 minutes south of Cincinnati,Ohio.I've worked there for over 14 years.Two other guys plus myself do all the HVAC work in a million square foot building.That doesn't include of of the out builings that were responsilbe for also,which take up alot of time. |
Posted By: RainDog
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 2:05am
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I was kidding about Johnson, of course. They are like a gabajillon dollar a year company. Doesn't help that their HQ is in my back yard.
Maintenance staff are stretched pretty thin all over these days. Most guys can't get to PM's because they are putting out fires all day long. Is your system TAC/Andover or TAC/Vista? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1868&sort=&pagenum=1 - 62 Classic http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5242&sort=&pagenum=1 - 2002 Super Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 8:52am
Ryan, I'm glad that you found the information informative. I'd hate to see someone in your field not knowing the systems that are available or what is possible. You must have missed my post on this radiant going in northern Wisconsin and not needing AC. Even without AC, you can't compare radiant to forced air unless you add zoning to the forced air. This, as you know adds high end controls for modulated dampering plus a high end furnace with variable speed blower and a modulated burner. (now we're talking getting Steve in with his TAC controls and I know he's expensive!!!). The bottom line after adding that to forced air is radiant is very cost effective. I know that with rising oil costs that the plastic tubing cost has gone up but how about steel costs for ducting! I'm looking forward to enjoying radient heat and my retirement! Each zone with independent temp control. No more cold feet. Nice even heat with no cold corners. No more drafts. No blower noise. No lost space for duct chases or soffits. No "oil canning" of ducting because a hacker on the ductwork doesn't know what a standing S cleat is. No improperly sized ducting because the hacker didn't know how to size them and ends up setting the blower on high hoping to get air through them. Adding to the hackers air flow problem 0 radius plenums, hard bend elbows, 0 inside radius elbows, duct T taps without turning vanes, high angle offsets and my favorite returns not equaling supplies. No over sizing furnace BTU's causing short cycling then adusting the anticipator setting that causes large temp differentials. Hopefully you will have the opportunity to install a whole hose radient in the near future. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 10:41am
| Raindog.We use TAC Vista in our hospital.Hell where work we still have a large section that still use pneumatic contols along with the first generation UC controls.Mostly now what gets installed these days are the MR's that TAC use for VAV boxes and air handler controls |
Posted By: RainDog
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 11:23am
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The golden rule of pnuematics (according to programmable digital control guys) -
Pneumatics don't suck, they blow. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1868&sort=&pagenum=1 - 62 Classic http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5242&sort=&pagenum=1 - 2002 Super Air |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 12:13pm
| Sometimes digitals conrtrols suck also.Pneumatics aren't bad to work on.Sometimes I prefer them in some applications.Sometimes you just want to make your work easy.Have you ever heard the phrase SIMPLE,STUPID,DUMB.If you make your work simple,then anyone stupid or dumb can work on it.That way it never breaks down and its reliable.I've seen controls guys get really crazy when it comes to programming in a BAS system.Nine times out of ten theres always a simpler way of doing it,but they can never seem to figure it out. |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 3:57pm
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I like the look of the warmboard and I am having my new boiler sized to cover an addition that will have a new 26x20 den. I would rather use a product like this instead of having the ugly baseboard heat. Does anyone know if I can use this in this one room while the rest of the house is baseboard? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 4:06pm
MM, It's not a problem. You just treat the addition with the Warmboard as a new zone like you would have with baseboard. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: November-13-2007 at 8:38pm
| 8122- good luck finding a residential outfit that will make standing slips..btw i shoulda cleared this up earlier..i dont mess with residential except on the side..im a local 33 sheet metal worker, so i i too am not to fond of scabs..i mean hacks either..i have put wirsbo in the residential houses when people wanted it..other than that i leave it up to the pipefitters/plumbers..seems like you know your sh*t?...are you in the trades?..if not im impressed with your knowledge |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-14-2007 at 8:16am
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Ryan, Thanks for your compliment. Glad to here that you concure with me about there being plenty of hackers out there in the field. I however wasn't limiting my observations to residential only. Any typical ducting that you can find at Homedepot I've seen hacked together!! No I'm not in the trades but rather in a engineering position that gets me into lots of different fields. I've always been very mechanically inclined and always try to fully educate myself on any technical issue that comes up. I do however, have a lot of experience in air movement and that's the reason I hate to see the hacked up and unengineened ductwork. With the home I'm in now, I was lucky to get a contrator that would maybe do 1 residential a year (he did use standing cleats on my wide return plenums!!) and the rest commercial or industrial. He did a very nice job but I'm defiantly looking forward to the radient in the next house. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |