Strut bearing and prop shaft
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8858
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 9:52pm
Topic: Strut bearing and prop shaft
Posted By: Fasteddie
Subject: Strut bearing and prop shaft
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 1:01am
When I purchased my 63 American Skier I noticed some side to side play in the propeller shaft at the strut. I figured it just needed a new strut bearing. I removed the prop and the strut and I noticed there was some wear in the propeller shaft where the bearing ran. The bearing appeared to be a little worn and flattened where the prop shaft had been resting. The shaft .010-.015 under the 1" shaft size. Can I have a little extra play here or do I need to replace the propeller shaft? The shaft appears to be brass but I could be wrong.
Also, regarding the strut bearings, I see quite a price difference between certain types of bearings. Should I go with the economy bearing or the higher end.
Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 6:58am
Ed, Yes, the shaft is brass. I don't think it wa until the late 60's when the stainless were used. My 64 with the 312 even had a brass shaft.
I don't think the .010 to .015 undersize will hurt at the cutlass. Get the new bearing and see how it fits that area. Also, you don't have a 6000RPM engine like some of our members have!!! I would be more concerned with how it fits the coupling half.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Fasteddie
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 2:34pm
Another question, since the strut has a 5" long hole for the bearing and most of the bearings are only 4" should I cut the bearing in half and insert flush in each end? I've seen some two piece assemblies to replace the single.
Thanks for the help
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 4:21pm
Ed, I would just put it in as is without cutting it. Install it in the strut so it's closest to the prop.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 4:44pm
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Peter I have to say I learn from your posts everyday.Is there something you don't know?
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 5:53pm
I would say it depends on where your shaft wear is. On my mustang i had pretty similar shaft wear however it was only on the 4 inches in the center of the strut where the old bearing was. By using a two piece bearing set flush to the ends of the ends of the strut, it tightened up the shaft in the bearing and bought me some time before replacing the shaft.
-Joe.
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1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-31-2007 at 6:55pm
i dont want to undermine you guys, my vote says put in a $160.00 shaft, i think it will be cheaper in the long run, thats me though, i like spending other peoples money, have a stainless made its heard to tell how much fatigue your brass shaft has seen and sure as sh*t you'll get it back together and the shaft will snap
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: Fasteddie
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 10:59am
If I decide to replace the shaft where can I purchase the shaft? I see Glen-L sells them and they will cut to length but will it have the keyway cut on the engine side? It looks relatively easy to replace, remove the safety wire and the two lock bolts and some tapping to remove it from the engine coupling or is it more complicated?
I'll wait to see how the new Cutlass bearing fits the old prop shaft before I decide to replace.
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 11:36am
let us know if the coupling is loose, this should be a press fit and if its loose you'll also want to replace, General prop, or Mindermans her in ohio makes shafts
941-748-1528
you decide which route to go, it is relatively easy to replace
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: Fasteddie
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 12:02pm
The coupling is tight. Will I be able to tap or pull the shaft out from the prop end? It looks about inpossible (no room) to pull the coupling off at the engine side.
Thanks Eric
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 12:46pm
Ed, You can use the socket between the couling halves/progressively shorter bolt trick to get the shaft out. The only problem with this is the danger of warping the coupling faces. A smaller than the shaft dia. socket is placed agaist the shaft and then long bolts betwwen the couplings are tightened which pushes the shaft out. There also is a puller that they make for it. Getting it back in with a press fit on the coupling to the shaft requires heat on the coupling and the shaft chilled. We never used to do this in the "old" days but has become the norm now. Eric (I do it too) likes to press the shaft on to the coupling and take a cut in the lathe on the coupling face. You then need to press it off again to get it in the boat unless you want to pull the engine. Eric is correct that you may want to consider putting a new shaft in now to avoid all the work later!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 3:19pm
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Pete, I've used the socket trick and have not had a problem, however, it was on a 7 or 8 year old boat. I'm thinking I should replace my strut bearing and stuffing box rubber while I have the tranny out. I'm guessing my stuff is original, so it's been together 40 years. Is a gear puller the best way to remove the flange from the shaft?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 3:30pm
Bruce, The gear puller can be used but you will still need to be carefull with not bending the flange. Since it grabs the flange on the outside it is more likely to bend than using the bolt holes which are closed to the centerline. (it's all in the leverage!) The puller that is available does use the bolt holes. Just be careful.
Edit, Use a 4 arm if possible. The more arms the better!!
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 7:30pm
I pulled one a month or so ago and bent it, of course my guy snapped the set screw and i was to lazy to drill it, it took all my puller had to get it off, I quoted the job with a new coupling and thats why i didnt drill it out. the point is dont be a dummy like me and try to pull it off with the set screw still in, i almost had to cut the shaft because of that dumb lazy mistake
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-01-2007 at 8:43pm
I'll let it soak in WD40 over the winter.
My flange has threaded holes. I don't know if that is unusual, but I had never seen one before.
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