alternator upgrade
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8935
Printed Date: November-16-2024 at 4:19pm
Topic: alternator upgrade
Posted By: barefoot86
Subject: alternator upgrade
Date Posted: November-07-2007 at 11:24pm
I have an 86 BF with 454. the alternator does not produce enough voltage at low rpms. Is this a bad alternator or something else.
I would like to up grade to a more amp alternator. It seems that i read somewhere you need to upgrade the wiring under the dash as well. can someone fill me in.
thanks.
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Replies:
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 12:37am
BF86, my knowledge of wiring configurations from year to year on Correct Craft boats is limited but my working knowledge of electrical systems is very strong. So here are some questions for you. Is your alternator original? Does your boat use a volt meter or amp meter? Have you checked the voltage at the B+ terminal of the alternator or battery with a digital volt meter? Have you added any other electrical loads to the system (like a sound system)?
If you want to upgrade, in my opinion, there is no better choice (considering cost, ease of installation, ect,...) than the GM 10 or 12SI series alternators. You can pick one of these up for less than 100 bucks and that's one that will put out 100 amps. If your boat uses a voltmeter, there are no upgrades required for the dash.
Post back with some answers and that will give us a good starting point.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 1:07am
An '86 should have an internally regulated alternator and a voltmeter (not an ammeter). Im curious how youve deduced that it isnt putting out enough voltage at low RPM's. Have you put a meter on the output terminal like Nutty suggested? It should always be putting out 12-14V. If its not, then the regulator may be suspect. If youre having trouble powering some of the loads (stereo, lights, etc), then your alt isnt providing enough current.
If youre simply relying on the voltmeter, then you may notice that the voltmeter will read differently depending on how many accessories are on (blower, nav lights, etc). This is a result of inadequate wire sizes being run to the dash (both 12V ign and ground), or dirty connections, or both.
A bit more info would be very helpful for solving your problem.
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 1:32am
Agreed! Indeed check your connections (dirty or lose). Several threads on this site talk about inadequate wire size to the dash like Tim said. But first, verify that you do have a problem before you go replacing anything.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: 69 Mustang
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 3:35am
Not to be a wise guy, but with the condition only showing up in a low rpm situation, my first thought was: loose belt?
Mike
------------- For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong.
"Where the **** are we?" Amelia Earhart. July 2, 1937
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 3:56am
Thread jack; Mike where have you been? Haven't seen ya on for a while. Hope all is ok up there in DC.
john
------------- "Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Posted By: barefoot86
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 11:59am
Belt is tight. I believe it is not putting out engough current. the boat has a volt meter and when at idle the alarm will sound and the volt meter will read below 12 volts. I also plan on adding stero equipment soon so I know I will need to upgrade. and it sounds like I will need the GM version. The boat has been winterized for the year, so i will be unable to get a meter on it untill spring.
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-08-2007 at 12:01pm
TRBenj wrote:
Have you put a meter on the output terminal like Nutty suggested? It should always be putting out 12-14V. |
I "believe" you don't have a problem at all. The gauge lies the wiring is too small and once you get some dirt corrosion going on at the connections it gets even worse.
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-07-2008 at 8:21pm
nuttyskier2002 wrote:
If you want to upgrade, in my opinion, there is no better choice (considering cost, ease of installation, ect,...) than the GM 10 or 12SI series alternators. You can pick one of these up for less than 100 bucks and that's one that will put out 100 amps. |
What's your source for that price, Tesla?
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 1:17am
Greg, do a search on e-bay for GM 10SI or 12SI. The 12SI is a little larger and is originally built to handle an honest 100 amps (although some are available rated at less). If you don't find a 12SI the 10SI will do just fine. Also, if all you find is the automobile ones, you can purchase the screens and make it marine approved. I did the same thing with mine. The same screens for the 10SI also fits the 12SI. I'll be right back with some links for you.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 1:37am
Here's on for you ready to go:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-140-amp-Delco-10SI-Marine-Alternator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ124104QQihZ001QQitemZ110221064989QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Or if you want to save a few bucks you can get an automotive one and purchase your screens here:
http://www.marine-alternator.com/imscreen.htm
Let me know if you have any more questions.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 1:39am
By the way, what is Tesla?
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 7:12am
Brian, Intel doesn't tell you much!!!
Tesla is best known for his many revolutionary contributions to the discipline of electricity and magnetism in the late 19th and early 20th century.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikola_Tesla - Tesla, AC current
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 8:45am
Pete's got it Brian...meant as a compliment and thanks for the info!
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 9:44am
I had a 3 wire mando with a motorola regulator on the back very similar to http://cgi.ebay.com/MERCURY-MARINE-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ220153148004QQihZ012QQcategoryZ31284QQcmdZViewItem - this .
I only need the 1 wire alt. if I go with the DUI distributer?
With a 1 wire alt the lead goes back to the battery? And with the 3 wire I have 1 lead back to the battery, a smaller one to feed the coil and a ground?
I need a crash course in engine electrical systems.
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 4:03pm
Okay my electrical history knowledge is a bit lacking and thanks for the lesson. But my theory and practical application are pretty good.
Greg you can use either the 3 wire or the one wire with the HEI. The 3 wire just uses a sense line to check battery voltage and adjust alt output. It's the #2 wire (small) that pluds into the voltage regulator (internal). This wire also serves as the excitation circuit for the field. You can wire it directly to the ignition switch through a diode. The arrow on the diode neeeds to point toward the alternator (not the ign switch). The alt does not need to supply the coil with a ground. Nor does it need an input from the coil, just the switch. The #1 wire is not required. It's used to supply the idiot light in a car.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-08-2008 at 4:08pm
Oh, and Pete, don't blame Intel for my lack of electrical history knowledge. I received all of my electical training in military (Navy) schools. Their courses are rather condensed. But thanks for the lesson!
Brian
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 10:59am
Brian, you went over my head?!!? LOL I'm about to google 'diode' and find out what it is and does. If both alt's work with the distributer I want(DUI), then I may need the 3-wire...I have an idiot light for oil pressure, temp, and voltage as well as the gauge for all 3.
Edit-OK, a diode is a check valve for electricity...I almost have a handle on it.
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-11-2008 at 2:29pm
I found the one that's meant to be the original replacement. It's a 55 amp 3-wire...enough juice? I have a pretty mild radio, will be adding a depth finder, and the rest is factory.
Speaking of radios, how do I filter out the engine noise on AM?
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 1:27pm
There is an inline filter available for splicing into the power lead that feeds your radio. Also, make sure you are running resistor type plugs and wires. If you are using an amp, make sure your RCA cables aren't too close to any other power carrying leads. If it's AM only, chances are it's coming from the ignition. If it's AM and FM it could (and probably is) coming from the alternator. There's a capacitor available for the alternator as well. You can google this subject and find lots of info.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
|
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 1:42pm
BuffaloBFN wrote:
I found the one that's meant to be the original replacement. It's a 55 amp 3-wire...enough juice? I have a pretty mild radio, will be adding a depth finder, and the rest is factory.
Speaking of radios, how do I filter out the engine noise on AM? |
the better question is why are you listening to AM radio
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 8:07pm
It's an AM/FM/CD 40Wx4 head unit(no external amp), enough for me. The FM & CD are fine. It's only the AM with the static interferance. Thanks again for the info. I'll try to catch up on my reading...and I appreciate the help getting it together now. I'm guessing the 55 amp is enough since noone freaked?
79nautique wrote:
the better question is why are you listening to AM radio |
Not so often in the boat, but there are a few shows I hate to miss!
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 8:27pm
what style distributor do you have? points? converted? replacement electronic?
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 8:43pm
79nautique wrote:
what style distributor do you have? points? converted? replacement electronic? |
Funny you should ask...I just ordered the HEI/DUI that was reccomended in another thread. After he got my engine info, he asked where I'd heard of them. He was happy to hear that several guys here were happy to have 1/some.
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 1:21am
I wouldn't get excited about any filter for the radio then, run the amp directly to the battery and the radio up to the acc on the ign switch and you won't have a problem.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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