Polishing Hull: Steps and Materials??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9414
Printed Date: September-28-2024 at 1:00pm
Topic: Polishing Hull: Steps and Materials??
Posted By: davidg
Subject: Polishing Hull: Steps and Materials??
Date Posted: January-13-2008 at 12:31pm
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I just got a '76 Southwind 18. Its in pretty good shape and is sitting in the garage begging me to start bringing the hull shine back to life. I need to do something to it to save time in the spring. I don't think it will take too much to bring the shine back. Questions:
1. What steps should I follow without going completely overboard on it (just a good basic shine)? - Wash hull - Rubbing compound with electric buffer? - Wet sand? - Wax 2. What materials will I need, and where is the best place to get them in January? Car parts stores, West Marine, etc? 3. My garage is not heated, so I am not sure if I can complete everything until it warms up some. Thanks guys! Just chomping at the bit to get at it, and wanted to get a summary of the key steps. I know this forum is filled with good info, but, my head was spinning after reading through all the steps, products, methods, etc. I am just trying to summarize the key steps and materials. Thanks! Dave |
Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-13-2008 at 12:47pm
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wet sanding is a last ditch effort, do a test spot with some compound first, i use 3m compound, it is a white paste and seems to work the quickest, how cold is it in your garage? the compunds and buffing pads rely on heat also when buffing, alot of guys clean thier pads often...and you end up using twice the compound. do you have any local bodyshop supply stores in your area? buy local cause the catalogers (WEST) (land n sea) will get you. Napa will also carry these supply's.
when tackling this always go to a proffesional body shop supply house, these products are for proffesional use and are designed to get the job done ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-13-2008 at 2:32pm
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Ive gone into detail about the process Ive used before, but Ill summarize if it helps.
1. a. wash b. wetsand (if necessary) c. compound (if necessary) d. polish e. wax 2. I like 3M products. The best prices Ive found are at: http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/ - http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/ ------------- |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-13-2008 at 5:16pm
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Thanks guys....thats exactly what I was looking for. I know the information is all on the forum, I was just having trouble putting it all together in steps with the right materials.
TRBenj: I think I will skip wet sanding to start with. What is the best 3M compound(s) to use, and what polish and wax do you like for the older hulls that may need a little extra to get them to pop? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-13-2008 at 5:30pm
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The trick is figuring out how aggressive you need to be in order to restore gel. If its just shine youre looking for (no oxidation or color fading), a good polish might do the trick. Test a small area and work back (increasing aggressiveness) and see what gets you results. I used the following products after wetsanding:
3M Super Duty Compound (2x) 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound (1x) 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (2x) Collinite 925 Fiberglass Wax (by hand) Each product was able to remove the scratches left by the previous round of buffing. The Finesse-It II is a polish. You'll want to use a good rotary buffer and match each product up with the right of pad to see the best results. ------------- |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 12:30am
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Tim: The way I add it up it took 6 times around the boat. To much work for my old arms. I'd have no strenght left for footin'. Interested in a nice Florida vacation? You gotta be cold and bored by now. Me and mrsjbear will put you up and I'll buy the beer. You can see some local attractions and I will get you some great footing sessions with a guy I know here who is pretty good. All you gotta do in return is do my boat while I'm at work.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 1:16pm
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John, sounds like a good deal to me- though I gotta tell you, it may be cheaper for you to do it yourself! Its definitely cold up here, as we're getting another 12" of snow today. Ive got a few projects keeping me busy for now- but ask me again in another month and I may change my mind! ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 2:06pm
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Tim, you're the 1st person I've run into that has even heard of Collinites. That's what I use, the liquid cleaner and the fiberglass paste wax. They made the Mustang look really good, although wet sanding or compounding would probably make it look close to new. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 2:41pm
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we use a foam pad when it gets down to the polish ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 3:01pm
Bruce, a bunch of guys on one of the Whaler forums swear by the stuff- so I decided to give it a shot. The 925 is a liquid, and its extremely easy to put on and take off. The paste is supposed to be even more durable, but not quite as easy to apply- but I have to say Ive been extremely impressed with the look and longetivity of the 925. I went out and bought some Insulator wax to use on my truck. Everything Ive read says Collinite products are top notch. Ive actually found it at NAPA now, which is great. If youre happy with the color on the Mustang, theres probably no need to wetsand. Some time spent with a good polish (or potentially compound) will get it shined right up. The wax is just for protection- the polish will restore the gel. ------------- |
Riley wrote:Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 3:29pm
Tim, I've used the 925 and it shines just as good, but it is not as durable. It is much easier to apply. The paste requires much more effort and a bit of a knack. Doesn't matter though if your boat is on a trailer and you can wax it every few weeks or even every week. We moor our boats all summer, taking them out midway for waxing and oil changes, so I like the paste. (Other than the Mustang, I haven't waxed a boat in about 4 years. David has become the wax man. Tom is the interior man. I just maintain the engine. This has worked out pretty good for me) ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 3:36pm
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That doesnt surprise me- seems consistent with what Ive read. The coat of 925 I put on before GL was still beading up very nicely when I pulled the boat in October, though. The boat spends most of its time on a lift, so 1-2x a season is plenty durable for me! ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 3:55pm
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The 925 obviously works well because I was expecting you to tell me you wax your boat at least weekly. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 5:04pm
Ha- not quite! I always have high hopes for getting things done during the summer- but if the boats in the water, it seems I can always find something better to do than work on it! ------------- |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 6:39pm
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TRBenj suggested the following:
3M Super Duty Compound (2x) 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound (1x) 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (2x) Collinite 925 Fiberglass Wax (by hand) I stopped at a local parts store today to see if they had the 3M products. They did. Not sure if they had the Imperial Microfinishing compound though. I don' remember seeing it, but, it may have been there. I think they sides of the hull will be just fine with the above products. The top of the deck....tbd?? May need to wet sand. Question: Can I use these products with an electric buffer in a cold, unheated garage, or should it be 50-60 Degrees, as the auto parts guys told me. With so much downtime this winter, I want to get on it and get some before and after pictures posted. Dave |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 6:45pm
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The only product I can think of that will be temperature dependant would be wax- and only conventional/carnuba waxes at that (synthetics dont care). The heat created between the gel and pad when its cutting will make the ambient temp unimportant. I just buffed out my fiberglass roof box a week ago with no issues.
Youre going to have a hard time finding those products locally. The only place that may carry them would be West Marine ($$$) or an autobody shop. Youll save a lot of money (~50%) buying from the link I posted. ------------- |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 7:03pm
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TRB....my post was misleading above. The local parts store I stopped at DID have the 3M products you mentioned. I think a big bottle of the Super Duty Compound was around $24 or so. I will have to do closer comparisons.
I am glad to hear they are not temperature dependant. I want to get at it ASAP. I worked on the garage all weekend on it. I drained three gallons of oil/water out of the oil pan. Fresh oil in, and drained again. Did a compression check. All cylinders between 100-125. It sounds MEAN! |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 7:51pm
David you have to get the rest of the family out in the garage working on this.After their out there for awhile,they will complain it's too cold,you hit them up for a garage heater telling the Mrs it will help her to have a warm car to go to work in  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 8:36pm
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Gary;
That parts store you previously mentioned in McHenry is where I found the 3M products today. No, the family wasn't in the garage, but, both MY boat, and MY truck are, and thats not making the wife happy. The nagging to get the boat out hasn't started full force yet, but, I can tell its not far away. I am thinking of storing the truck instead of the boat so I can keep working on the boat over the winter. Do you know of places that are renting garage space for the next several months in the Algonquin/Cary areas? |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-14-2008 at 11:41pm
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Tim: Might be cheaper..but not as much fun! You just let me know if you wanna warm up! Then come on down. Gotta bring your footin' stuff so me and Eddie can take you out.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-15-2008 at 12:19am
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No I don't David,never had to look.I'm lucky my Dad leaves for the winter and I store my MG and my CC in his garage. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: November-23-2012 at 2:21am
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Removed my decals and I have the "Ghost Gelcoat" under the old decals. To remove these how agressige do I need to start with paper? 400...800 and then step up to 1000, 1200, 1500? For the rest of the Gel coat I can probably start with 800. Then i will be following Pete,s process. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-23-2012 at 7:21am
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Tom, On my 77 Tique, I was never able to get rid of the ghosting and actually sanded to the point of seeing glass. The PO had named the boat with vinyl decals on the transom so I ended up having to regel the transom. On the hull sides, I had to have original size "since" decals reproduced to cover the ghosting up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: scottb7
Date Posted: November-23-2012 at 5:05pm
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what would be difference between using these 2 products? i have some light swirl marks i want to take out. ps. i am doing all by hand, both of which say can be done? http://www.autogeek.net/3m-rubbing-compound.html http://www.autogeek.net/3m-scratch-remover.html |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-23-2012 at 8:12pm
By hand? Yes, it can be done BUT, be prepared for lots of hard work. Invest in a buffer. http://www.autogeek.net/3m-rubbing-compound.html" rel="nofollow - Proper link #1 for the convenience of all http://www.autogeek.net/3m-scratch-remover.html" rel="nofollow - Proper link #2 for the convenience of all ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-23-2012 at 9:19pm
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Gelcoat is tough stuff,can't go wrong with Tim's recomendations,but in your case you might just start with 1000 or 1200 and a cheap Harbor Freight buffer wetsand 800, 1000, 1200 3M Super Duty Compound on a 1" pile wool pad, 2x 3M Perfect-It II Compound on a 1.5" pile wool pad, 1x 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (this is a polish) on a wool/acrylic blend polishing pad, 2x Collinites 925 wax, by hand with a microfiber cloth I get all my 3M stuff and Lake Country pads from Smart Shoppers. They have the best prices that Ive found and carry everything you'll need, save for the wax (available at Napa or ebay). You definitely need a good rotary polisher for this stuff. With your fleet Id invest in a Dewalt 849 or the Milwaukee equivalent. If you want more info (part numbers, etc), let me know. This process has worked wonders for every boat Ive used it on. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: rogier
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 6:55am
Agree with Eric, Wet sanding is the thing you do only on the spots that stay ugly after polishing. Also agree with most of the steps posted above. Don't forget to use a finishing wax to close the polished gel coat and protect it from deterioration. Compound: Do not confuse cars and boats when polishing. Polyester, Vnylester, etc will NOT react the same way to compounds. 3M would be the product to use, especially when you are a novice to polishing. The 3M cutting paste has a feature that it will burn the rubbing parts when you use it incorrectly (at least here in Europe). This may be annoying for the experienced polisher that wants to rub out a mould, but for a novice this is great, because it will prevent damaging your boats gel coat. Also, you can reactivate and cool the compound with water. What I do with 3M is to keep a plant sprinkler at hand to wet things a bit from time to time if I want to cut corners and run at higher RPM. Tools: As a first time polisher, use a wafer style pad for the first 'cutting' runs that you make. This will prevent holograms and thus reduces the number of times you have to polish the boat. It will also prevent you from creating hot spots and will help you keep a consistent result. I use a woollen pad only for the final run for a show&shine result. Method: Do not press on the polishing machine or run it at high RPM. This will create heat and that is never good for polishing. Let the machine and compound do the work for you. |
Posted By: 80SN Barnfind
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 11:01am
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Wet sand if needed, Super duty & Finesse it with a Makita wheel. ------------- Knowledge comes by taking things apart: analysis. But wisdom comes by putting things together. |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 3:24pm
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What is a Wafer style Pad? Did a search and got nothing. I do like the concept of reducing the number of times you have to polish a boat. For wet sanding using 800, 1000, 1200 by hand what type of blocks are recomended? I see the Soft flexable blocks, the Roller Guard, and several others designed for wet sanding. Sizes range from 2 1/2 X 5 inchs and up. What about the tight curved surfaces any special blocks for these areas? Is there a preferance? ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 3:28pm
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Only block the rougher grits (~600 and below)... and be really careful about complex curves. Finer grits, do by hand. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 3:43pm
I think http://www.tptools.com/p/2613,145_3Mand-8482;-Perfect-It™-Foam-Pads.html" rel="nofollow - these are what he means. It's what I used. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 4:55pm
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Along similar lines, the transom below the waterline on the Martini is really yellow (white hull), is there anything you guy's would suggest to perhaps clean it or brighten it before doing any more sanding?? Sanding done so far has not taken any of that yellowing out?? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 5:03pm
It should have CG. Nothing should brighten up the hull better than physically removing layers of oxidation and gel.. What grit did you try? Might have to more coarse, or continue to wet sand. You should see a difference... ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 5:20pm
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Yellowing as in water stains? Hull cleaner is the way to go- sanding would probably work, but 1000x harder for the same results. Ive seen plenty of oxidation at the waterline before, but its always chalky, never "yellow". Wetsanding does a good job on oxidation, if thats what youre seeing though. ------------- |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 6:09pm
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Believe it's just staining, this would be the area below the swim deck. Used some toilet bowl cleaner on all the yellow area's. Made very little difference in this area however. Anything else that might work, like bleach or something along those lines that is safe for the Gel?? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 6:17pm
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If its just a stain, on/off will take it off. Havent seen anything that it cant touch yet. I was not impressed with the toilet bowl / peroxide recipe at all... nowhere near as effective as on/off. Its muriatic acid based though, I believe- its some serious stuff so be very careful getting it on your skin or eyes, and dont let it sit long on any painted surface (like the graphics, trailer, etc). ------------- |
Posted By: rogier
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 6:20pm
Yellowing is pretty normal for a boat in fresh water. If there is no anti-fouling paint on the hull, I use Muriatic acid to clean it. There are specific acid products for hull cleaning, they all do the same. Check for the concentration, this should be as high as possible for a quick result. Spray it on, brush it a bit and spray it off after a while. Make sure you are protected and that you are in a well ventilated area. After drying, I rub one layer of protection & sealer wax on the hull. Sanding is a no-go for a yellow/brownish hull, the colour has penetrated into the gel coat and sanding it off will reduce gel coat that is perfectly fine.
Yes these are the ones to use! |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 11:29pm
| Quinner....Try "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner. I have never seen anything work so well as that. Pretty caustic stuff though. Handle with care. Don't let it get near any metal parts either. |
Posted By: 79TiqueRebuild
Date Posted: November-26-2012 at 11:52pm
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I use the works tub and shower cleaner. The price is right too! I get it a dollar general. Monty |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: November-27-2012 at 8:07am
Good tip Monty ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-27-2012 at 4:18pm
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The works dollar store toilet bowl cleaner is exactly what was used, is it possible this stuff could blister the gel?? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: November-27-2012 at 5:05pm
My guess is Monty thought, a skid mark is a skid mark there all the same.............  ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: tbeard
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 2:08am
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OK I wanna make sure I am clear on what to purchase to de-yellow my hull. I have seen several sugestions. We are starting this cleaning process on Saturday so I need to know what to buy. 1) on/off will take it off. - Is this easy off oven cleaner? 2) muriatic acid based - Is there a specific product this acid is in? 3) the works tub and shower cleaner - The blister comment concerns me! Also will it de-yellow a 25 year old hull. ------------- Thanks.......Tom |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 8:05am
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All Jokes apart .....many bath tubs /shower trays are fibreglass too.....just don’t leave it on long and wash off with plenty of water .........always try a small area not see first. ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 12:36pm
http://www.amazon.com/MaryKate-On-Off-Bottom-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXNNA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1354113349&sr=1-1&keywords=MaryKate+On+and+Off" rel="nofollow - On/Off  ------------- |
Posted By: harddock
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 2:07pm
FSR Fiberglas Stain Remover. Sold at marine specialty stores( West etc) it is a gel you put on, let sit and then wash off. It will remove the coffee colored stain at the waterline. Y-10 is a similar product (both are some sort of acid based) but I had better results with FSR. I have been told that Naval Jelly also works.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4487" rel="nofollow - 1998 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 3:19pm
I've always used straight muriatic acid. Never harms the gel, just have to be really aware using it in well ventalated areas. Can be purchased at any hardware store.. ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 4:10pm
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Tom, believe easy off oven cleaner will remove paint from gel, would be careful about using that. 1) Marykate on/off - $15qt 2) muriatic acid - $8gal 3) the works tub and shower cleaner - $1qt 4) Davis FSR $13 16oz Is Marykate or Davis worth the extra $$?? Does anyone know for sure if the works or muriatic are safe on the gel? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 4:15pm
Been used many times, as said above. ------------- |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 6:12pm
CQ, the 97' Cobalt we have up in Green Lake has had it's hull splashed with it ever since it was new. Never any issues. Cleans perfectly. Just wax after and done !!! DD ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: November-28-2012 at 10:39pm
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Hey guys, just curious, what is the procedure with the muratic acid? How do you apply, do you let it sit for a while, scrub? I would like to try this this winter and would like to know the correct steps. Thanks Mark ------------- levin |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-29-2012 at 4:00pm
add starbrite hull cleaner to the list..about the same cost as the on/off. i like to put it in a spray bottle...spray it on, let it sit, hose it off. usually takes me multiple applications to get all the stains off, but no scrubbing. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: November-29-2012 at 5:59pm
Mark, Probably not a good idea to use the acid unless you have a lot of water to neutralize it. I spray it on, brush it for a few seconds and rinse it off.. You can't use it indoors, as the fumes will burn your nose and throat.. Outside in the driveway, no problem.. I've also poured it straight from the bottle onto a rag, then placed it over a long RV type washing broom and scrubed the hull that way. Use rubber gloves and just make sure you rinse everything that is comes into contact with.. Work from bottom to top to make sure this stuff doesn't drip on you.. Sounds bad, I know, but nothing in my opinion will clean/strip a hull faster and more effective. Just have to use it wisely and it does a great job... Wax after it dries and you're ready to go.. No, it won't get rid of a chalked up, oxidized surface, but lake scum, stains, etc. it does wonders on... Moj' ------------- 05' SV211 TE 73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 10:06am
Moj', thanks for the info. I guess if I'm going to try it, I'll wait till spring when it warms up to pull the boat out in the drive and the hose going. Right now I got the boat jammed in the back of the garage with platform off, trailer tongue in up position so we have room for both vehicles. Just got her tucked away and dont want to mess with it for a while. Its a 26x26 garage, we can park her escape on one side and I can park my truck on the other with about 5" of clearance for the door  Mark ------------- levin |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: November-30-2012 at 10:16am
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For using M acid we usually use a paint roller and cheap plastic paint roller tray. Use an extension handle or broom stick. You can roll sideways from the chines down over the strakes to the bilge line pretty easy. let sit and hose off. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: levinmark
Date Posted: December-02-2012 at 1:27pm
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Another good tip, thanks guys. I'll give it a whirl when things warm back up. ------------- levin |