Polishing Under Rear Boarding Ladder??
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9494
Printed Date: September-27-2024 at 8:25pm
Topic: Polishing Under Rear Boarding Ladder??
Posted By: davidg
Subject: Polishing Under Rear Boarding Ladder??
Date Posted: January-27-2008 at 2:03pm
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I am at the point of getting the whole top end of the '76 Southwind polished (the underside of the boat will be a whole different issue...Argh!!). However, I have not been able to get under the rear boarding ladder because its just too tight to reach with the electric buffer.
Has anybody dealt with polishing under the ladders? Am I going to have to remove the whole ladder/rear railing assembly? Or, does the ladder come apart in segments? I do need to replace a wooden rung or two as well. Should I use fiberglass or plastic for the rungs vs. the original teak wood?? Being a purist, I lean toward the wood. Just curious if anybody out there has faced either of these dilemas before. I will try to post some pictures later today of what I am talking about. Thanks! Dave |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-27-2008 at 7:54pm
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Dave, For a HD buffing, the only way to get behind the ladder is to remove it. I would because it sounds like the rest of the boat is coming out pretty good! Removal shouldn't be that hard. When you reinstall, use some 5200 on the screws. No silicone! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-27-2008 at 11:00pm
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Here is a picture of the ladder. You can easily see the oxidation underneath it where I couldn't reach with the buffer. The starboard outside area has been done with 3M Finesse-It II. It is really shining now. I checked out the screws holding the ladder/rail assembly on. I think its just a lag screw set-up, so it should come off and go back on fairly easily.
I always wondered why there were no painted stripes on the back of the boat. Well, I found the outlines of where they used to be. Somebody apparently took them off for whatever reason. I think I will paint them back on when I get to the stripes. I want this baby just like she rolled out of the Correct Craft plant when I get done. 
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 1:45am
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Man is that looking nice David. You are gonna be really happy with how it looks behind that cool truck this summer.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 2:55am
Pete....what is 5200, and where can I get it?
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8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 7:48am
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Dave, 5200 is a 3M adhesive/sealant. You can get a small tube of it from a marine supply. It is great stuff and will seal. I'm not a big fan of silicone and mention that frequently. The stuff really doesn't stick to anything including itself. I'm sure you have found a spot where someone has used it and it just peels off. The 5200 will stick to almost anything. It is a moisture cure polyurethane and versions of it (more adhesive than sealant) are being used on things like airplane skins in place of rivets. The marine version comes in a fast and a slow cure. The fast has less adhesion. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 10:06am
| WalMart carries 5200, believe it or not! |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 2:19pm
| David if your taking the ladder off,then you might as well polish the ladder railings and bases since you have it off.I did it with my 78 mustang.I just went to the hardware store and got some buffing wheels for the bench grinder and jewelers rouge.It works really well buffing everything out,but it does make a mess.Make sure you clear coat the railings and bases when you done.I only cleared the section that the water hits and is in contact with the water. |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-28-2008 at 3:09pm
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Brian;
Good advice. A friend of mine suggested I use a product called "Never Dull" for metal polishing. Do you have any experience with that? Supposedly uses chemicals vs. abrasives to shine the metal up. Either way, I do plan to polish the metal as well. Thanks for the advice. Dave |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: January-29-2008 at 12:10pm
| David,I did use the never dull on the rails,but that was after the polishing part of the process.The jewelers rouge gets the oxidation off the pieces.The never dull is the finish touch before you clear the rails.Make sure after you use the never dull that you wipe it clean before you clear the parts. |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-29-2008 at 12:56pm
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Brian;
A couple of questions: You mentioned jewelwers rouge. What is that, how do you use it, and where do you get it? Regarding clear coating, I don't have a compressor or spray gun. Can clear be applied from a spray can? If so, any brands or types to use? Thanks! Dave |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: January-29-2008 at 2:42pm
| David,jewelers rouge is a polishing compound that comes in a stick form.When you put the buffing wheel on the bench grinder,just turn it on and apply the compound on the wheel when its running.You will have to re-apply the compound often as your using it.Then you will have to apply a little elbow grease when polishing your parts.After that,thats when you use the never dull for your finish work.When clearing your parts you can just use Krylon in a spray can,it works fine.Apply very thin coats when you do clear to keep it from running.I coated mine four to five times,with 30 minute intervals in between.You can find the jewelers rouge at any good hardware store.Just ask someone and they will be able to help you. |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-29-2008 at 5:40pm
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Makes sense Brian. Thanks! Great info!
Okay, sorry for 20 Questions here, but, I am learning. It makes sense to do the fittings with the jewelers rouge/polish wheel, but, would I do the pipe portion as well? It seems like it might be tough to polish all that round stock. Would I be better off using the "Never Dull" for that? I think I am going to start pulling the ladder and front rails off this evening. Finish up the heavy polishing, and then start on the metal fittings and rails. Dave |
Posted By: bmiller
Date Posted: January-29-2008 at 6:09pm
| David,you can polish the pipe portions on the grinder.I don't know what you have as a bench grinder,but I have a very non OSHA approved belt driven grinder.Its really easy to polish things then.You may get lucky and be able to take the sides off of your grinder. |