Best Material to use to Repalce Floor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=957
Printed Date: January-16-2025 at 5:42am
Topic: Best Material to use to Repalce Floor
Posted By: SkiLew
Subject: Best Material to use to Repalce Floor
Date Posted: October-27-2004 at 11:21am
What is the best material to use to repalce the floor in my 1978 CC? Is it marine plywood, treated plywood, or some type of non-wood composite. And if it is a non-wood composite where would I get this material?
SkiLew
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Replies:
Posted By: mrese
Date Posted: October-27-2004 at 3:37pm
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I replaced my trailer running boards with a marine polyboard. It comes in the same sizes and works very much like plywood(cutting, glueing, screwing, and stapling). The prices were comparable to the marine plywood I looked at, but it seems to be lower maintance. Do some looking on the web and find a dealer you can drive to and pick it up. Shipping and Handling would be outragous. The marine quality resist water absorbtion much better, otherwise the "plastic" eventually soaks up some water and gets brittle.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-27-2004 at 4:01pm
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I used 1 piece of resin coated treated plywood to replace the variety of very very rotten floorboards under the glass of my '84 2001.
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Posted By: SkiLew
Date Posted: October-27-2004 at 5:08pm
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Did you also glass over the plywood?
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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-27-2004 at 7:43pm
you glass over anything that you plan on using. Even if you use composite starboard you have to glass over the seams to seal the wood that is already there.
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: October-28-2004 at 8:30am
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west systems 2 part on marine plywood.
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: October-29-2004 at 1:05pm
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An alternative to marine plywood is pressure treated plywood that is first allowed to "dry" several weeks in the sun prior to using. The advantage over marine plywood is the rot resistance of pressure treated plywood. The disadvantage is that it is not a structural grade plywood. Either choice must be totally encased/sealed with epoxy resin and/or fiberglass once installation is complete.
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Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: October-29-2004 at 9:20pm
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As I understand it, the difference in Marine Grade Plywood and Exterior Grade is the Marine Grade is more structually sound. The knots and voids in each of the inner plys are repaired and filled on the marine grade but not exterior grade. Both use water-resistant glues. I'd use Marine Grade Plywood and encapsulate it with fiberglass mat and epoxy. Treated plywood would be resistant to rot but would still soak up water if not encapsulated.
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Posted By: 66polyhead
Date Posted: October-30-2004 at 12:48am
I pulled up a floor in mine that had been previously replaced using 3/8" "exterior grade" plywood, resin coated, bottom only. It was poor grade, filled with voids, and only 4 layers. I replaced the original bulkheads, middle, and rear, and forward, with new crossmembers made from White Oak. Cut, planed, triple resin coated. I anchored the laterals into the primary stringers with a 3/16"X1 1/4"X 1 1/4"X 4" angles and stainless TEK screws, Into the secondary stringers with # 10 X 1 1/4" stainless wood screws (you have to be careful not to pilot drill thru the hull on these puppies). Then I used 17/32" 8 layer high grade plywood, coated three times, with a urethane resin, 6 coats on the edges. I used a construction adhesive on top of the stringers and all the laterals (oh yeah, i put in a few extras, under the seats, and the shaft packing access, and front battery access), laid the floor down in 4 pieces, and screwed it down after pilot drilling and countersinking, with the same #10 X 1 1/2" stainless steel flat head screws. Glue, carpet, and now I can have a watersking Elephant on board!
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=220&yrstart=1925&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - KY Wildcat
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Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: November-01-2004 at 2:08pm
66 If there is ever a war can I come hide under your boat!! On my 66 barracuda I used exterior grade plywood with 2 coats of urethane after I bondoed the voids in the edges. I figure it is good for another 25 years.
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=250&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000%20" rel="nofollow - 2000 Ski
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: November-01-2004 at 3:06pm
66:
As there are many good methods to installing or replacing floors, I am sure you method will perform very well. The only thing I would add to your write-up is the importance of sealing the screw holes prior to installing the fasteners. After the hole is pre-drilled and countersunk, you should seal the now exposed wood with epoxy resin (or similiar). The water will find that screw hole and start to rot the wood around it.
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Posted By: Jared Johnston
Date Posted: November-15-2005 at 1:55pm
I've replaced my floor with plastic cores and PVC sheets. I first poured foam into the stringer gaps, sanded and leveled off and then sanded the foam down flat. After that, I glued and screwed down a layer of 1/8th inch PVC sheeting (after grinding both sides for adhesion). Then I took 1/2 inch plastic core honneycomb (with film and barriers) and glued the honneycomb down to the PVC using epoxy and adhesive compound additive. Next I covered the entire floor with a good solid 2 layers of glass with epoxy. I'm making the rear floor piece out of the same materials. She's about done with the floor work. I'm moving on to the paint/finish next.
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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