Strut and driveshaft replacement
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9573
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 11:58pm
Topic: Strut and driveshaft replacement
Posted By: Bremsen
Subject: Strut and driveshaft replacement
Date Posted: February-05-2008 at 5:58pm
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Ok, I've searched and read over a dozen threads but still haven't found the info I'm looking for.
Late last season I noticed our driveshaft strut had a slight (but visible) bend in it. I've never noticed any substantial vibration but I decided to look at the driveshaft while underway and believe I could see runout in the shaft (the stuffing box was moving side-side slightly). When I went back to inspect the shaft strut again I noticed it looked like the bearing was worn unevenly. I don't know how long it was like this but I've never hit anything with the boat so my guess is this was there from the previous owner (even though I had white lake inspect the boat before I purchased it). Anyway, I've bought a new prop strut w/bearing and realize I'll probably end up needing to replace the shaft as well (I have not checked the shaft yet, other than visually). My main question and biggest concern is getting everything aligned properly once replaced. I'm assuming I do NOT want to remove everything at once and that I should r/r the strut or shaft first, then the other to keep everything lined up. Is that the case? What would be the best way to go about this and what should I expect? Lastly, if I do have to replace the shaft, is the double taper system from Skidim worth it? And yes, Eric, I realize I will probably be rebuilding my trans sometime in the near future b/c of this. Thanks in advance for any and all help. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Replies:
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-05-2008 at 6:35pm
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i push that if the insurance company's are involved....do you have insurance? if so dont be afraid to use it then the double taper is worth it if someone else is buying.
i have yet to date to purchase a double taper for these smaller shafts, i try to think of a reason and cannot come up with the advantage of the double taper and the double cost. in theory they are nice but really no need for them IMO. you may have to start from scratch, alot of times with all new straight parts they are pretty close on the alignment, alot of times i will bolt the shaft to the trans coupling and this will "kinda" line the strut or at least get it close. `then i will 5200 the strut and tighten, if it is way out of whack dont try to pull the strut in with the bolts, loosen the trans bolts at the flange then tighten. then attempt your alignment. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-05-2008 at 7:21pm
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Ryan. Change out the cutlass (strut) bearing without removing it from the boat first. Use the threaded rod and fender washer trick to install the new one. Then go forward from there with a new shaft etc. Check to see if it is close to the hole in the hull. If OK, then go from there with the procedure by Eric. I'm only mentioning this because refitting the strut if it isn't required is a PITA. You may run into shims under it to compensate for hull irregularities and they can drive you up a wall!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: February-06-2008 at 11:54am
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Eric, no insurance on this one. With the deal I got on the strut the total cost will just barely be over my deductible. I was just curious since if the double tapered shaft is worth the extra cost due to ease of installation. The whole pressing, heating, cooling stuff never seems to work for me. Something always goes wrong. I appreciate the installation instructions. I'm hoping it goes smoothly.
Pete, the strut I bought was a NOS item and has the cutlass already installed. The strut on the boat is visually bent (~1/8-1/4") so replacement is necessary. The shims you speak of and getting the new strut to line up with the shaft was the reason for my post. It got me worried this project might not be cut and dry. thanks again fellas. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: February-06-2008 at 12:24pm
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Bremson, my point was from a different angle, you shouldnt have to be fixing your own boat, look at it from the angle of taking it into the shop, from what your telling me and from what im reading, if i did an estimate on your boat it would be in the 4500.00 to 5000.00 range and the ins. co. wouldnt even bat an eye. did you inspect the hull for cracks or chips? this all has to be factored in, i get alot of guys with the same exact scenario that you are in, they are fixing thier own boats as cheap as possible and they have insurance and large deductibles, you can work around the deductibles very easily by talking to the repair shop. or do get an estimate and then perform the repairs your self.
Im not saying this is the case everytime but just trying to educate boatowners that you pay insurance for a reason and this reason falls under its guidelines.....if you hit another car with your car what would you do....fix it in your garage? no you would turn it in to your ins. co. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Footer
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 5:22pm
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Hey guys,
I was wondering what diameter prop shaft you have. I have a 1987 Barefoot Nautique with 454 in it. I bought it 2 years ago. My shaft dia is 1 inch. Should it be a 1-1/8 inch dia? Do you know what the '87 BN boats were built with (new)? Also, I was looking at prop port and can see plywood edge of the hull, no glass or gelcoat covering it. This has me wondering if boat was damaged. The hull has no other markes or cracks around this area, doesn't look like prop struck bottom of hull either. Thanks ------------- '87 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-12-2008 at 5:32pm
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1" is the right size and there is no wood in the hull just on the inside between the hull and floor. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 9:19am
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Footer, Take a closer look at this plywood you are seeing. You may be correct that at one time the boat got damaged. From your description, to me it sounds like a amateur repair was made and plywood was used on the inside of the hull as a reinforcement. If so, it is not a sound method. Extra layers of glass and epoxy resin should have been used. Post a picture.
Welcome to the site and happy footing! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Footer
Date Posted: February-13-2008 at 2:23pm
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Thanks 79nautique & 8122pbrainard,
I will post a picture next week. The boat is up at lake and will be bringing it home this weekend. ------------- '87 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: Lorenr
Date Posted: February-15-2008 at 4:10pm
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Alignment of the strut.
I went through this once with a reputable propeller shop and found that all they do to straighten a strut is mount it in a fixture and use an old shaft to align it. They just bend it with a bar and tell you to finish the job after it is mounted in the boat. We can do the same thing without even removing it from the boat. That is unless you tried to drive the boat over a stump. 1. Use a good shaft and align it to the transmission flange. If it is off, then adjust. 2. Use an old shaft to bend the strut in the direction of misalignment. Over compensate as needed. 3. The most difficult part of this is getting the feel of the process. 4. I would of thought that the strut would have required heating, but not so. ------------- Lorenr |
Posted By: Footer
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 2:08pm
Finally got some pictures of my propeller port on my '87 Barefoot Nautique. I think this is the way it was built. Pic #1 is whole port, bow is to the right. The port is brass. 2&3 are closer look, tan part is glass mat from assembly and was installed after hole was cut. 4 is the bilge. 5 is close up of port mat that meets the hull. 6 is picture of same mat work done in front of engine for the bilge pump mount. I included that because it looks identical in work to the port. Previous owner says no work was done by him. Ron Scarpa was first owner and used in his business for a year. If it was a repair, I am amazed at how fresh the wood looks. Boat was always stored in dry dock.
PICTURE 1 
PICTURE 2 
PICTURE 3 
PICTURE 4 
PICTURE 5 
PICTURE 6 ------------- '87 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 2:12pm
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what plywood? that's all glass and gel-kote looks all factory to me. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 2:17pm
I agree, you are looking at layers of glass that look like plywood. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
79nautique wrote:Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 3:13pm
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I guess what looks like a repair because it doesn't match the texture of the rest of the hull is because it is cut out and glassed in after the hull is removed from the mold. Almost every one looks like that in the bilge area to a degree. I would be worried if it all looked the same inside of the bilge as that is a sign someone has done glass work or stringer work and covered up what the factory did orginally. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 8:49pm
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Anyone else like that garden hose hook-up? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 8:50pm
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Footer, my '88 looks just like that. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 8:54pm
It's missing a check valve to the thru hull but do remember that Tim has said his set up sucks some air too but works. My fake "Fake-a-lake" still works!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: February-29-2008 at 9:12pm
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I'll have to look into a check valve. I've been pulling the hose from the strainer on the RWP side because my intake is directly over a bunk. I'd like to come up with something cleaner while I have the whole thing pulled apart. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Footer
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 5:36pm
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Thanks guys!
I will look at the edge closer. Sure looked like plywood to me. I didn't think any repair had been done. About the valve, that is the way it came. I don't use it. If you look at clamp, that stem is a T-handle. I disconnect the hose and use another piece of hose with pipe nipple, run it over board into a 5-gal bucket. Then run 2 garden hoses to keep bucket full. I can only idle engine else bucket will empty. Hey BuffaloBFN, Now that I go back and read your post, I can see how the valve works because my water pick up is covered by a bunk also. I thought what a bad idea because if trailer backed into water just a little bit the pick up would be blocked. But I realize when boat starts to float even just a little bit, the intake will not be restricted. ------------- '87 Barefoot Nautique |
Posted By: 84bare12
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 4:21pm
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There's no repair there, I have an 84" barefoot and it looks the same, and the boats never been touched. that is stock!!! Also in 84" the shaft is 1" by 41" stock. ------------- Mark 84bare12" |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 5:58pm
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OK, I got the coupling loose and verified that the shaft is not bent, but it was out of alignment. I pulled the prop and the existing strut off. Now I have a question and a problem I could use some advice on.
Question: The shaft is very polished and I can feel unevenness in the strut area, like its slightly worn. No deep gouges or anything though. If it were a metal-metal bearing I would want it surfaced, but I'm not sure if its enough to warrant replacing the shaft. I mean, it is riding on a rubber bearing. Is this cause for concern? Problem: I purchased a new strut+bearing off ebay. I verified that my stock on was stamped S-19, just as the auctioned item. When I went to pre-install the new strut I noticed the mounting holes are slightly off. Side2side it's workable, but lengthwise its off by ~1/4". There are also a couple small chips in the gelcoat underneath the strut and a few spider cracks around the area (prev owner must have hit something hard), but the actual fiberglass seems very solid. Can I just elongate the factory holes slightly to fit the new strut? Do I need to fix the gelcoat or will sealing it with 4200 be enough? Any other repair needs/ideas? TIA -Ryan ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 6:44pm
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Use the stock strut and replace the cutlass bearing only,a lot cheaper and no issues with half assed job .Do not elongate the holes, you will have a simple job now , do not complicate it further. in stall new bearing 5200 to seal and get a good bond finish the simple process of alignment.
Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 6:46pm
I feel for you Ryan...mine turned into this. There was a surprising amount of glass separation that had to come out and it took some time to dry after I had it opened up. Hopefully your's didn't sit in the water for a long after the impact like mine!
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 6:56pm
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This is gonna sound dumb, but did you see any water at all when you pulled the strut? I got an unpleasant surprise when I raised the bow and made the strut location the low point. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 10:57pm
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Boat dr,
Trust me, if it was that easy I would not be posting the question. I want to fix it the right way, so it may not be easy. It may even have to go to a pro. Maybe I should take a pic of the area for the experts to decide if I need to make further hull repairs. Here is the first problem....the strut that I pulled off: 
Can you believe this wasn't caught on the survey? Sometimes I wonder if they even looked at the f-in boat. Anyway, that is why I purchased a new strut. Buffalo, I didn't see any water or wetness to speak of. The exposed glass was a little dark looking where the chips were in the gelcoat. My trailer is sitting on a good incline so it would definately drain if there was significant water. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 11:11pm
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Bremson, sorry , I stand for the lashing , please only ten not the twenty normaly used for stupid answers.....LOL
I assumed you were talking of elongating the strut and not the "glass".I wonder as to why the holes are that far off????? That drive took a Hell of a shock to bend the strut at that angle...Eric has posted before on the subject of failure down the road of some tranny related parts,drum and plataries maybe. Maybe he will chine in and alert you as to these issues.. That is a hard call as to modification of your boat or try and find the "CORRECT" strut...........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-16-2008 at 11:37pm
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Boat dr, haha no worries. You're a *************** cat compared to 79. It could probably be straightend by a prop shop, but I already have the new one. I figured it would bolt up but as with many other things on boats of this vintage that is rarely the case.
And yeh...I'll be waiting for Eric to chime in, I'm sure its just a matter of time before I see trans issues. That has been on the boat since I bought it in June of 05 (~150hrs). ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 7:26am
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Ryan, I would epoxy (with filler added) up the old holes and then re drill the holes. You will need to be very carefull with the fore to aft position of the strut. Check before drilling new holes.
Edit: No one answered the polished shaft at the cutlass bearing question! Sorry, Mike it out and compare the OD to a original area. I doubt it is worn and if a couple thousand's under it would still be OK. How did you check the shaft for straightness? Remember that using the feeler gauge between the coupling halves will only check straightness down to the cutlass and not in the prop area. Get the shaft into some V blocks and check it out with a dial indicator. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 10:28am
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you can have the strut straightened in a press, when you bolt it up though put the shaftt down through it to keep it straight with the shaft as you tighten the 4 bolts, this gets your side to side pretty close, that took one hell of a whack i see,
were you able to turn pryor to removal? also check the coupling on the shaft end if it is loose and looks like there is rust in between the coupling and the shaft then it is bad by the time your done by looking at what you have going on the insurance company wouldve went about 6k on those repairs and would have allowed the trans to be pulled and inspected, also would have allowed a new damper and so on.... im not saying turn everything into the insurance company but with the damage you have it does warrant such. there has to be some type of damage to the back of that trans with the strut bent like that ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 11:38am
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Eric,
I have a brand new strut, it just doesn't quite line up with the old holes. I'm not really interested in paying to have my old one straightened unless absolutely necessary. I already spent money buying new. My question is how to get the new strut to fit? At this point I think I'll take Petes advice and fill/re-drill. The holes are not off by much. I was able to turn the prop just fine (one-handed) and there really wasn't much vibration....at least not enough for me to think something was seriously wrong. Honestly, for as bad as the strut looks the alignment wasn't that bad off. I'll check the coupling next time I'm up, but nothing looked out of the ordinary on that end. I'm sure there is probably damage to the trans but that is another expense for [hopefully] another day. Right now she shifts/drives just fine. Again, you bring up insurance. Is boat insurance different than a car? b/c if I go by your numbers they would simply total the boat. Also, this happened before I purchased the boat....so I'm guessing my insurance probably doesn't cover it. Eric, I do value your input, but lets be realistic here. If it were a newer boat worth $20k or more I would definately consider the insurance option, but on a boat that books less than $7k, just about any significant damage would total it. The insurance is only there to cover lawsuits and/or medical care I might incur if I were involved in an accident. Besides, I enjoy fixing things myself and I plan to keep the boat for a long time. I'm hoping my first born (due in Aug) learns to ski/board behind the little CC. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 12:33pm
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Ryan, For strut placement, I made myself a hard nylon bushing to replace the cutlass bearing. This removes all the slop from the rubber and you don't need to sort of guess that the shaft is centered/concentric in the strut. I'm mentioning this because the strut position is located with the shaft in the strut and the other end centered in the hole in the bottom of the hull.
Edit: If you don't have a means of making a plastic bushing, you can get some cheap "oilite" bushings and press them into the strut. You may need to ream the 1" bore depending on the shaft OD. When done, cut the bushings out with a hack saw just like you would remove the cutlass. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 12:36pm
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well there are 2 points here and they are not completely directed towards you, alot of guys are not capable of doing what your doing and i use the insurance angle as an option for them because i dont want them to assume insurance does not cover the equivalant of a car wreck, as to a prop hit. they may assume its not covered and pay out of pocket. and you also can work with the repair shop on the cost of repairs to the value of the boat. i guess its meant to be read by everyone and if they dont have the repair it themselve option they wont have to pay out of pocket for the repairs ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 1:07pm
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Pete, I follow you. I'll see what I can fab up with some plastic to get the strut properly positioned. Once that in place I can hook up an indicator to check runout at the prop end.
Eric, ok I understand. Trust me, I see people working on things all the time that they have no business messing with. Thanks for the suggestions guys. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001 |