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Paint for re-painting stripe on 81 SN

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9881
Printed Date: November-15-2024 at 11:37pm


Topic: Paint for re-painting stripe on 81 SN
Posted By: bk_broiler
Subject: Paint for re-painting stripe on 81 SN
Date Posted: March-17-2008 at 8:57pm
Hey folks,

I've read over a bunch of old discussions on here about re-painting as part of a restoration, but most of those seem to concern replacing the gel-coat. Not my intent. I am in the process of sanding and buffing the gel on my 1981 Nautique. I have gerbermask all ready to mask off the graphics, and I'm working with a paint shop to have the painting done.

However, I don't know the precise primer/paint combo to have them use. Am I right that I should have them use a linear polyuerethane? If so, brand recommendations?

Again, this is for re-placing the original factory paint work, OVER the gelcoat on an 81.

Thanks!

Brian



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 8:37am
Brian, Is the paint shop asking? They really should know! The linear polys are certainly a way to go because of their adhesion, durabiliy and gloss retention. They are all pretty much the same chemically. For a small quantity the Petit or Interlux two part systems if you want to stay with a "marine". I'm told that CC used Rust-Oleum paint! Many have used it with very good results!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: bk_broiler
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 12:23pm
I just wanted to go into the conversation with some knowledge :).

One more quesiton. I'm doing all the prep work myself. How smooth should I get the paint surface before I mask it and take it to the paint shop? I'm doing the 600, 800,1000, heavy 3m buff, medium 3m polish, finnesse-it method :) I'm currently on the 800 (removing the old paint stripe took a while at 600, but now I am moving along nicely). SHould I only do the heavy buff before paint, or can I go all the way to finesse it?   


Posted By: Bremsen
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 12:44pm
In my experience, you shouldn't buff at all before paint; you want the mechanical adhesion of the sanded surface. On cars, we would wetsand with 400 grit before spraying.

If it were me I would wetsand with 400, have it painted, then go back and polish after the paint has cured.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=923&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990 - Our 88 SN2001


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by bk_broiler bk_broiler wrote:

I just wanted to go into the conversation with some knowledge :).

One more quesiton. I'm doing all the prep work myself. How smooth should I get the paint surface before I mask it and take it to the paint shop? I'm doing the 600, 800,1000, heavy 3m buff, medium 3m polish, finnesse-it method :) I'm currently on the 800 (removing the old paint stripe took a while at 600, but now I am moving along nicely). SHould I only do the heavy buff before paint, or can I go all the way to finesse it?   


That's another question for the body shop, they will not be spraying a primer and I'm sure they don't want the surface glass smooth. If I remeber correctly I think I went to 800 then the 3m compound and stopped.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: bk_broiler
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 5:03pm
After the paint then you just buffed and polished the entire surface (paint and gel?)

Thanks for all the help!


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by bk_broiler bk_broiler wrote:

After the paint then you just buffed and polished the entire surface (paint and gel?)

Thanks for all the help!


I sprayed a clear coat over the color then wet sanded and buffed it all but I used an automotive paint which required the clear. The film thickness of the rustoleum will probably be thick enough to just wet sand and buff like you stated but you will need to be careful or you'll buff it right off. Ask about clear over the rustoleum, if it's compatible that's what I'd do.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 12:31am
if your spraying and then clear coating not sure I would use the rust-o-leum. What did Mark use on ski lime?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: MaddMarxx
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 2:13am
we used PPG base coat/clear coat! its not cheap!

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Posted By: critter
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 2:21am
Originally posted by MaddMarxx MaddMarxx wrote:

we used PPG base coat/clear coat! its not cheap!


But a really good choice.

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1980 Ski Nautique
1966 Barracuda


Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 11:43am
Originally posted by MaddMarxx MaddMarxx wrote:

we used PPG base coat/clear coat! its not cheap!


Same here, I think it's the way to go. The old rustoleum enamel worked great for years but there are much better products available.

I guess an advantage of the enamel is you can brush or roll it on if you don't have spray equipment and then wet sand and buff it out. It's still more prone to sun fade though than a base/clear.

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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails



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