1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

WakeSlayer wrote: I cannot figure out how you are going to get away with 3-4 gallons of epoxy.

Whoever thinks this project will only consume 3-4 gallons has a serious misunderstanding of the scope of the job that is involved. Thats assuming you do a proper layup, as documented by many on here. 8-10 gallons on a boat that size should be about right.

Of course, if you cut the number of courses for the stringers in half, dont coat everything in resin beforehand, and dont glass the floor in, you can probably do it with 3-4.

I cannot figure out how you are going to get away with 3-4 gallons of eopxy. There are little epoxy gremlins that come in the middle of the night and have little gloo keggers. I went through 5 gallons before I had the first primary biaxed in. If I am lucky, I will get done with 10 gallons, but it will be close.

Scott,

Read through my thread. You can see some of the techniques I used that may be helpful. Eventhough we have different sized and brand boats, a lot will transfer over. Look at the other threads, too. Take a couple evenings and do nothing but read through. There's a couple of really good threads that will be more specific to your boat layout.

Here's a few things based on your comments an questions...

I used a sawzall for my cutting.

Supporting the boat is a good thing. My trailer supports most of it, but I blocked it up in a few spots, mostly along the edges.

My grinding I've done with a 4" grinder, mostly with 24 grit sanding discs (although I did try the flapper discs too).

Look around on the Doug Fir. I'm surprised you don't have a lumber yard that stocks it. I got mine for less than $2 a foot. Even at the price ou were quoted, it doesn't sound to awful bad.

You can see how I added drainage to mine in the main stringers and the cross supports.

M floor is being done with plywood laid over the stringers. Late 80's Supras were originally built that way as opposed to the design of the early CC's with the fiberglass just laid on the foam. If I was you, I'd plan to build it that way. That would be conducive to foam or not and you can make the decision later. Personally, I'm going to foam, but I'm laying in a plastic sheeting when I pour the foam so it won't adhere to my framework and will be a "floating" block inside the compartment.

On the glass, I'm using 1708 biaxial. I did a layup schedule that just lays and entire cap layer over the stringer to the floor. I did two layers on each stringer, each successive layer with more overlap onto the hull than the other. I used 6" biaxial tape for the cross supports, then I'm laying a layer over the top down to the hull to cap them. The floor will have the 6" biaxial tape to adhere the edges all along the hull and the bilge area. Then the floor will get one layer of mat and one layer of 6oz cloth to finish it off.

I've gotten 20 yds of biaxial so far and I can see where I need a bit more. I'm probably going to end up at 25 yds. Based on my estimations I'll end up at 75 yds of biaxial tape. I have figured out the mat and cloth yet. I've gone through 6 gallons of epoxy so far and feel like I'll probably end up using 15 gallons altogether. Filler comes into play too for mixing up the thickened epoxy which you'll use to bed the stringers. I used cabosil and glass bubbles for bedding and filleting. I have been getting all my supplies from U.S. Composites.

Scott,
The drainage holes are actually half round cut outs in the bottom of the stringers. Yes, they do get glassed. The easy way is to glass the half rounds before you set the stringers in the boat.

Do some searching and reading on the stringer threads. I feel you'll find it interesting plus lots of information/details.

Yes, it's Pete!

Is it Pete?

Well, I read something else in your last post to me. Drainage built in to the stringer system? Am I supposed to put some holes somewhere or what are you talking about? Sounds like a great idea as long as the drainge holes are coated with epoxy to there is no chance of water touching the wood.

Going to my brothers today to get his engine lift. Bought the angle cutter and diamond blade last night. Should have the engine out and the primaries out this week. I will probably go ahead and order the epoxy today which will hurt . I forgot who told me about 9 gallons worth, just don't want to order too much. I have great luck using www.raka.com. and dealing with larry the owner. He knows everything about boatbuilding supplies. Don't know where to buy the Douglas Fir but may have a contact that deals in speciality woods near me.

Thanks for helping me out. Do ya'll ever swap telephone numbers or do we just use the site for everything?

Working on the picture problem thanks to Keeganino. Later

Every one else will say foam or plywood, split about 50/50.

Not trying to be glib, but this is an endless debate!

When it comes to sizing your picture- the easiest thing to do is to set your digital camera to take the lowest resolution pictures it can. These will be perfect for the internet. It makes the file size small and the image the right size for a computer screen. Pictures taken on a 5 megapixel camera at full resolution are way too big for a computer screen but make nice crisp prints. So reduce the resolution on your camera to low and you should be good to go for posting pics. Way faster and easier than cropping and resizing images.

CCF gives you 10 mb of storage space. To get there click on "forums", then click on "member control panel". Then "file manager" Then "New Upload". Click "browse" find the image on your computer and upload it. Click on the image to open the file from the ccf website. Copy the web address out of the browser. Now open your thread and go to the latest post. Click on the reply icon that looks like an arrow pointing up at a 45. This will give you a few more icons. Click on the icon that looks like a tree and paste the web address that you copied earlier and wa la. Picture.

wakeslayer,

I can see where my old floor layed across the main and secondary stringers and supported by the foam but how is the new floor supported by pool noodles? When it comes time to put the floor in, would I just lay out the biaxial(soaked) and pour on the epoxy? Seeems like it would just be uneven and even collapse.


thanks,

scott

srbranum wrote: How much epoxy and hardner will I have to buy for an area approximately 12'X4' including the amount for the stringers and floor? Where can I buy the wood you suggested? What weight of fiberglass cloth are you going to use for the stringers and the floor? What are you going to put in the areas between the stringers and the side of the boat where, in my case, foam used to be?

Scott

1) Epoxy = 10 gallons
2) Douglas Fir
3) I used 6 oz tapes, and 17oz biaxial
4) Pool noodles!

You best get cracking if you want to be done by mid May!
Truthfully, that is pretty optimistic, but if get help and stay at it, it is possible.

Wow, that looks real similar to mine. I bought a grinder as well and everything you said is right up my alley. I will take note of your post.

Can you tell me:

How much epoxy and hardner will I have to buy for an area approximately 12'X4' including the amount for the stringers and floor?

Where can I buy the wood you suggested?

What weight of fiberglass cloth are you going to use for the stringers and the floor?

What are you going to put in the areas between the stringers and the side of the boat where, in my case, foam used to be?

Help me out on posting pictures if you can. I am not a very good computer person

Thanks and I will be talking to you soon I am sure.

Scott

Guess what I just found? The beam between two of the engine mounts is totally rotten. Do you remember an old Andy Griffith show when Andy walked into Wally's filling station and found some smoldering oil rags in a barrel and Gomer was asleep? Gomer kept saying over and over again........."You know what you just gone and did? You saved my life is what you done".

Thanks to you and everyone else for convincing me to go all the way.

scott

By the way, one of the reasons I try and take so good care of this boat is that I had a guy last year offer me $10,000 for it while skiing one day. The previous high offer I had before that was $8700(It cost $5500 brand new in 1975) but its not for sale for twice the offer. I want to keep it as original as possible and its a joy to ride. Sounds like two Harley Davidson's on the water!!! Nothing like it first thing in the morning.

scott

Scott,

Listen to these guys. They know what they're talking about. I'll tell you there were a lot of places on my stringers that "SEEMED" solid. Once I cut them out I found out the wood was dry rot and kind of in one piece, but it isn't what I would consider solid.

I took my boat to a local boat repair shop to pull the engine and put it on a crate. He charged me $100. I'll do the same thing to put it back in.

As far as wood is concerned, I've been using Doug Fir lumber and plywood. My Supra is a little different layout than the Correct Crafts, but You can get some good ideas on how to put the wood in on mine. Each of my stringers were about $20. I'll spend ~$40 on the cross bracing. The plywood was ~$130. The compostie materials will last forever, but they're cost is pretty high. That's why I decided to just go wood.

Mike,
I did it again!! I forgot Scott signed his first post! Sorry Scott.

srbranum wrote: taking the engine out at this point makes me want to throw up. I just got through replacing all the wiring and I have no idea what it takes to take the engine out. Looks like you unbolt the four mounts, cut the wires, disconnect the fuel lines and separate it from the shaft. It's sitting in my workshop. If I were to do it, I would almost cut a hole in the ceiling, tie an engine hoist to the beams and lift it up a few inches

No name,
I'd rather pull a engine from a boat than a car/truck. Really it's not that bad of a job. If you'd rather not go cutting a hole in the ceiling and beaming across several ceiling joists to handle the load, you may want to look for a engine hoist. I went shopping just recently to get the 1927 engine out of the back end of my Suburban. Went on line to all the normal places like Northern and Harbor but the shipping was close to the purchase price!! Then went to good old ebay and did a "purchase now" for about $180 for a folding 2 ton and the shipping was free! He had a decent stock of them so you may want to take a look.

If you decide to go and put something in your ceiling, I'd go and put two lifting points in now. This way you'll be able to lift the complete boat if wanted. I do it with two 2 ton "come-a-longs".

The two on the right are for spanning the joists spreading the load.