Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

I had today off, so I installed the prop strut and the rudder support housing. The bolts on the strut are currently upside down. I needed to do it that way, because I’m working alone. Once the sealer sets up, I will flip and seal the bolts. I now notice the mark on the stringer that locates the clamping block mounting ball stud.

The ball is hiding (sandwiched ) under the four bolt and plate. And the shaft is in that mounting block extension

Chucky wrote: !!!YES!!! You will NOT get that one lock ring off (without destroying it) without pliers similar to what KENO shows above. I should have been more clear on that. On a different note...Could someone please post a picture, or describe really well about where and or how this part is mounted? I know it’s part of the steering system. I know it goes with the clamping block. But, I don’t know what it bolts to??? Remember, I didn’t take this boat apart. Thanks!

Go to the linked thread, 4th picture down and you'll see it bolted to the drivers side stringer with the clamp block bolted to it

And further on down page 1 , you'll see another picture of it.

link

Chucky mentioned a nice set of snap ring pliers and to go along with them a good pair of lock ring pliers come in handy on one particular lock ring.

They make life easier without having to invent any new swear words along the way   

So.........snap ring pliers for snap rings and lock ring pliers for a lock ring

Here's a link to one example, you can spend more or you can spend less

link

Here's a picture of what the ends look like on a typical pair

Rustoleum “Royal Blue”. Looks good to me. Edit to add “before” picture.

I’d say 3-4 sessions of 4 or so hours each. So 12-16 hours max. Of course I could do it quicker, now that I’ve already done it. I think it would be possible to do it in 1 weekend, but I spaced it over 3 weekends. Internally, mine was very clean. I suspect it still worked, but I had no way of knowing. The front seal was worn looking, compared to the new one. I’m glad I decided to rebuild it. The trickiest part for me was rebuilding the forward hydraulic actuator. There’s an internal o-ring and a external flat cut o-ring. After replacing those o-rings, it was difficult to put the 2 pieces of that component back together. They fit very tightly together and the flat cut o-ring nearly got “pinched” every time I tried to put the parts back together. Slow, even pressure and patience was required on that part. The reverse hydraulic actuator assembly (similar o-rings) went back together easily. I’ll admit, I was a bit nervous, but it was actually not bad at all. A nice table, 2 rolls of paper towels, 2 cans of brake parts cleaner, a 1.5” socket, a nice pair of snap ring pliers and some basic hand tools and you should be good to go.

My project came with the bellhousing to connect to a 302. If anyone needs a 289 bellhousing, let me know. Primer is drying now...Thanks to KENO for being a good resource. Soon, I’ll be mounting the engine / trans in the boat!

KENO wrote: 67 ski nat wrote: Yep 10-17 is in the manual I was looking at online, 71c on tag. Check out the manual in the link link It's from a little known secret internet spot called the CCF reference section It'll tell you that your 71C has 5 inner clutch plates and 4 outer clutch plates for Forward and it has 1 reverse pressure plate and 1 reverse clutch plate. The reverse clutch plate on some is fiber and on some it's metallic. The fiber break easier and reverse no longer works when that happens The ALTO kit Chucky bought has a metallic plate (that's a good thing)

A little addition to this thread is the B/W manual in the link below.

It's a later version of what's in the CCF reference section with a few extra pages in the back.

One of those pages talks about reverse clutch plate combinations and another has info on the infamous "velvet dipstick" Most people on CCF would be interested in the RED velvet Dipstick

link

63 Skier wrote: Your shop is way too clean. I don't trust you ......

Yep 10-17 is in the manual I was looking at online, 71c on tag.

67 ski nat wrote: My tag is hard to read but I believe it says 10-17. 71c I remember talk about extra plates so curious what chunky finds

I believe that what you believe needs to get looked at again

In 1967 the terminology As 10-17 hadn't come about yet.

It'll probably say AS1-71C unless a much newer transmission was put in at some time

67 ski nat wrote: Please let me know if all parts are used in kit , number plates and stuff Looks like a tv sit com garage All props

The kit has enough parts like clutch plates to do a 72C/10-18 transmission so you (and Chucky) will have parts left over.

You can try to cram them all in, but you won't succeed even with a big hammer

If you post a picture of your ID tag on the transmission, that'll be a good start to figuring out what's inside it before you start tearing into it

Your shop is way too clean. I don't trust you ......

Yep. That is same kit I was going to get, thanks for confirming

Not factory but it does have a good look. As long as the boat sits down between the fenders it works for me. Great job.