New Owner problem

Sounds like it's time for a new strut/shaft/prop. Sorry to hear the news. If it makes you feel any better I'm in the process of replacing my shaft and prop right now.

Matt

You may not be able to turn it by hand unless you lubricate the bushings a bit. They're designed to be lubed by the water. If you haven't even gotten the boat wet since it's it's been in storage, it could be very tight.

If it's bent, the strut will probably have to come off to get straightened and you'll have to verify the prop shaft straightness as well as the alignment of the shaft to the tranny. If the shaft seems to be tight against one side of the strut, then new bushings may be needed too. Post some pics so we can see what's going on.

Loosten fastners the coupling and see if you can turn the prop, if it turns like butter, then engine alignment is suspect also.

Looks like you need to move the engine over.

I would put new bearings in the strut and re-align the motor with the strut before messing with taking the strut off!!

Skip, It's always tough to tell from pictures but to me it looks like moving the engine over won't do it. The shaft looks like it is pretty centered in the hole/log in the bottom of the boat. The best you could get from moving the engine would be maybe a 1/8". I think the problem is the strut. Disconnect the coupling at the trans and the rubber hose at the shaft stuffing box. See what happens and post some more pictures.

Speaking of pictures, edit your last posting by using the "enter" key between the pictures. It will stack them from top to bottom rather than side to side. No big deal but it does make the thread easier to read!

78ST - Check for stress cracks inside & out after you take the strut off. I found some, by accident, using paint thinner - it acted as a dye penetrant & highlighted the hairline cracks.

78SkiTique wrote: Do you think I can handle the strut shaft replacement myself? Can the strut be straightened

If you are mechanically inclinded and have some basic tools, then I feel you would be able to do this yourself. Matt (BrTracker) and Chris (SNobsessed) are going through it and have been asking some questions that we have been able to help out with.

Struts can be straightened to a point. Yours doesn't look that bad so it's worth a try. The best way is with a hydraulic press.

You mentioned that the PO didn't know anything about it! I wonder who glopped up around the strut base with the caulking?? Some one knew something happened!!

Yes, take a look inside the hull for any evidence of damage.

8122pbrainard wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: but it looks like the shaft enters 1 side of the strut and exits the other. Greg, Don't most prop shafts enter one end and exit the other? I know what you mean - just working you over a little!

Yea, you got me. In soccer we'd say it was a clean hit-nothing but ball! LOL

You did switch to 'end' when I said side?!!?

8122pbrainard wrote: When is the big day? Amy hsn't backed out yet has she??

If the soles of anyone's shoes get warm, they'll be mine! LOL

We leave on May 6th and the ceremony is on the 9th. This is going to complicate May 9 for me?!!?

Skip, Is this the boat you bought?

78 Tique

If so, it sure sounds like the seller really isn't being truthful! His description: "1978 Correct Craft Ski Tique Completely Restored to Brand New Condition"

You did it with the pictures!! Thanks! Taking another look at them, it really looks like the strut/boat took a hit. I also just noticed that the one edge of the prop shows what looks like a major repair indicating something happened. You'll see a different color of the brass alloy that was welded on to it. That strut is definately bent and then in a effort to line it back up with the shaft port looks like it was twisted.

Pete: Yes that is the boat. Luckily that isn't the price I paid. Been working so I haven't had a chance to do anything but I plan on working on it on Saturday and hopefully I'll have some more pictures and a better idea of what I'm up againts. I appreciate your help.

Skip, The picture of the strut from underneath sure confirms that the strut is twisted. Certainly the reason the shaft doesn't like to turn easy. I think you should pull the stut off, see what's underneath the base and take a shot at straightening it. Can you see any cracks on the inside? You can also check to see how straight the shaft is. Have you found the thread about removing the shaft coupling? The one with long bolts and a spacer?

Skip, While you are down there, now's the time to pull the shaft and check to see how straight it is. Pulling the coupling is the easy part! Getting it back on is the more challenging part. It usually requires (if fit correctly) heating the coupling in the oven to expand it. The fit between the shaft and the coupling should be a interference fit. We have members with just a basic mechanical skill who have done it. You will know more when you pull it off. Did you find the thread about pulling it? I'll come back with a link just in case! From the picture of the inside of the hull, it looks good. No cracking but do get some solvent down there like Chris suggested and see if anything shows up.

Has that engine been out and worked on or is it just a very low hour boat? The reason I ask is the paint looks pretty good.

Edit: Our search feature has been acting up lately so I couldn't find you a link on the coupling removal so here it is! You will need probably 3 or 4 extra sets (4/set) of longer bolts of varying lengths the same diameter as original. You will also need a round spacer just under 1" diameter. A deep socket works well. The spacer is placed between the prop shaft and the output shaft of the trans. You will then start with the longest set of bolts between the couplings. Loosen the set screws in the coupling and then alternately tighten the bolts. This will pull the shaft coupling forward but because of the spacer (deep socket) the shaft will stay in the same position. When you run out of room with the long bolts, switch them out to a shorter set. Keep it up until the coupling is pulled off the shaft.

Pete: The engine and transmission have supposedly been rebuilt. It does look like it has been. I have the phone number of the original owner and I am going to call him. I think you're right I should take the shaft out and check it while I've got it apart. What is an inteference fit? I will check again for cracks on the inside but don't see any now. Thanks for you help, advice suggestions.

If you have a deep freezer big enough you could always put the shaft in the freezer. When we do repairs on our dynamatics in the stamping plant, we have to heat the coupling and pack the shaft in dry ice.

87BFN owner wrote: If you have a deep freezer big enough you could always put the shaft in the freezer. When we do repairs on our dynamatics in the stamping plant, we have to heat the coupling and pack the shaft in dry ice.

James, I never knew our line of work was similar! I work for a job shop metal stamper and short run metal fabricator. I do know that our maintenance dept is too lazy to do any rebuilds on the eddy current drives - they just send them out! In their defense however, by the time they need work it's time for a motor rewind anyway. I have been slowly getting rid of the eddy current and retrofitting ABB variable frequency's.