learning to barefoot

Boom height should not cause slamming or bouncing. Higher is easier. Speed is likely too fast. Spray from between the legs should be coming up like a geyser if the speed is right. No spray = too fast. Water flowing slowly onto your back = too slow. Make sure your arms are straight and you're not chicken-winging, that'll exacerbate a poor plane.

Lower the boom height once you're consistent. It'll help prepare you for the long line.

Yeah Thanks guys. I have an ECI boom so the clamp wont fit on the fly high. So I run the clamp all the way down so that we can run the fly high.

Adam is going to pick up a barefoot sanger Saturday which I am super excited about by the way but we will be using his boom and his is a BI with the clamp so it can go on the flyhigh so we can put it lower.

I felt like I had backwards down with the shoes. If I can get my feet down without slamming them I get up everytime.

if you do that then the flyhigh cant slide all the way down isnt that bad for the pylon

I ran it the same height last week and was fine. Ive been borrowing suits for the last month because barefoot central and eagle have had problems getting mine to me. It is supposed to come in today so im really excited.

I think the suit I used last week had alot more padding. So I was fine but last night it was really painful from when I took my feet off the rope to when I put them in the water so i think I was trying to rush and also keep my hips up to protect myself which made it very tough. I hope my new suit is alot better. Never had this problem before.

I thought last week it seemed very easy and I got up every try.

A new suit will fix it

The one foot...keep looking at the horizon...chin up eyes up and maintain your upper body...dont bend over so much...stand on that one foot

Back to front...don't change your grip to do a back to front....to do it correctly get in a comfortable backwards position and let go with one hand and try to stay there...do not turn do not "help" the turn...resist it let the boat turn you...that's how you do a back to front. Try not to turn.

WBC

I didn't go (to Scarpas) school until I was in late 30s and smack my self for not going sooner in hindsight!. I only had a day and a half and learned a ton esp with things I was having trouble with back deeps non dom foot toes etc. and a pro in the boat feeding me tips real time was worth an entire summer of trying on own. Corrected so many things.

At least you got shoe skis... I never did..

I recommend because I noticed how many videos you posted in short time frame and you are skiing in bad weather etc... obviously you are newly hooked!   Will be the best money you ever spent!

Thanks for the posts. I did not think about flipping the boom good Idea. I think adam is trying to get a height adjuster.

I would love to go to WBC but work time off kinda hinders vacation. I dont get much of it and I dont live close to family so time off usually goes to that.

I learned last mid September so almost have been doing it a year. Pretty much did not foot at all this summer only in spring and starting again now. Did alot of 3 event skiing this summer.

lcgordon wrote: It does have not the best holeshot. You have to drag for a while. I do have a couple questions for you guys about the motor.

Lot of stuff you can do about the holeshot, typically the first solution is propping. Outboard props are WAY different then inboards, as I have come to learn over this last year. The good news is their are a LOT more options, the bad news, it is a lot of trial and error.

First lets understand what kind of Motor is on the Sanger.

I should probably lobby Keith to set up an "Correct Crafts with Lower Units" section!

Typically, the OMC motors (now BRP) had 3 carbs, sometimes 6. Quickly can figure that out with a model number. High 5 props (5 blade) are really expensive and while you see a huge gain in hole shot you are going to lose a ton of top end. Better off to dial in with pitch on a 3 or 4 blade - but that is going to take quite a bit of trial and error. With regard to the jetting, definitely want to look at that, higher altitude, less O2 better potential to burn it down.

Ok so I can help here, but I am going to need a little more information:

-Current Prop (should be a model number either on the face or the side of the hub)
minimally pitch (look for a number followed with a "P")
-Operating Elevation
-Year (that you think it is)
-Model Number (usually located on the Mounting bracket)
-Engine Serial Number (usually located on a frost plug somewhere on the block - looks like this:)

Thanks for the info if I have time tonight I will try to get some info on the motor. I do know that the Model number is E225PLCED and Ser no is G 02286312. It not mine so I kinda have to only look as much as he allowes and im guessing he is not gonna wanna buy another prop for it but I can maybe talk him into rejetting and maybe rebuilding the carbs with anew carb kit. I know the boat came with like 3-4 other props but I think they are all 3 blades and they are all the painted black metal props. Idk what that metal is but im guessing it wont be as good as the stainless 4 blade.

KENO wrote: skutsch wrote:    With regard to the jetting, definitely want to look at that, higher altitude, less O2 better potential to burn it down. I think you really mean "less O2, same amount of gas, it's gonna run pig rich and need to be jetted down (leaner) to get the best performance out of it"

Yep, I went the wrong way... Fat as a pig is right... No burn down worry. But definitely want to go with less fuel more air...

lcgordon wrote: . I know the boat came with like 3-4 other props but I think they are all 3 blades and they are all the painted black metal props. Idk what that metal is but im guessing it wont be as good as the stainless 4 blade.

The black painted props are Aluminum, most V-6 motors over 200HP will spin those so fast that the blades will bend against the water and be very ineffective. You definitely want to run stainless steel props.

On the Bass Nautique - which now (due to wet foam) weighs close to 2500 lbs with motor which puts out something around 260HP will spin a 22p Big Ear Chopper (a chopper is a 3 blade prop that gives all kinds of bow lift - the more hull out of the water the faster the boat will go) from 0 to 70 mph in 700 feet. Their is probably more on the top end, but to be honest, I have not figured out how to drive it past 70mph because of the chine walk.

I tell you this because with the 225 Johnson, that is probably tired (meaning it is probably ready for new pistons and rings) to get a decent hole shot, you probably want to run an 18p prop, maybe even smaller. The smaller you go the better the hole shot, but the less top end you get - I would think an 18p should top out at 55mph, but really depends on the efficiency of the hull - big and heavy will run slower on the big end and also slower out of the ditch.

It shouldn't take near 225 hp to pull up 1 deep water barefooter, something is way wrong.

If your friend is interested in a 1 year old 250 pro xs or a 350 verado let me know, we have 3 of each to get rid of.

To HW's point my ski buddy Carl runs a 225 on his BF Sanger and pulling my large frame around is not a problem and actually he will often times go down to the 4 blade for a more controlled acceleration.
Something is not right somewhere.

http://www.heeney.net/Documents/ABCRulebook.pdf