Prop needed for 1968 Correct Craft

Ricko, Good luck with the surgery. Hope it all goes well without any problems so you can get back in that boat!

I can only think of one thing regarding the shop wanting to reduce the number of wires. Some times through the life of a boat, things (with wires) get added on or problem are corrected by adding wires without much thought. I've seen some real "rats nests"!! Maybe the shop wants to start over with the wiring to clean it all up. Considering your ground problem, that's not a bad idea.

Good Evening my Friends,

It has been a crazy summer and my apologies for not being on lately. Had a problem with the ole boat. Seems one of the ground disintegrated. I had to take her in to the shop where they put on a new coil, new module, and did something to the distributer. Nothing worked. The boat would still not fire. After tracing about every wire, they found a ground that had essentially withered down to nothing. They did some re wiring of the boat and it is running good. Real good. They said I should bring her in over the winter and have all the wires re done. They also said they wanted to do something with the ignition to reduce the number of wires? Any thoughts on this one. Any way, I took her for a spin and it was great to be back on the water.

Next problem, Ricko is having surgery next week so my season is about over in a week. I will not be allowed in a car for 4 weeks, I asked the Dr. if that included boats, he didn't find it to funny.

I did hear some good news for my fellow owners of these awesome boats. Seems the value is steadily rising as first fiberglass boats are now becoming more and more people are looking for. I am going to bring her back to orginial and keep it that way. It's All Good has been a lot of fun and I enjoy having her.

Take care and have a good evening.

Ricko

Ricko, I'm going up north for a week and will be taking the 540 that didn't work on my Tique with me. The plan ever since I tried it on the Tique was to try it on my friends Barracuda just to see what happens. I'll take some pictures and post them a lond with the results. It should be interesting!!! I'll have the results after the GL reunion.

ricko1 wrote: Please read this post from Keith. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/articles/ACME_540_Prop.asp Very interesting. He has the same prop.

Quote by Woody: "Replacing 12" Props
On the older non-Nautique Correct Crafts (like my Mustang) that came fitted with a 12" prop, you can move up to a 13" prop. Woody from Southeast Correct Craft recommends there be a minimum distance between the prop blade and the hull equal to the shaft diameter or there can be damage to the hull gelcoat over time. After you have installed your new prop, measure at a 90 degree angle from the shaft at the point where the blade is closest to the hull. If the distance is less than one inch and you notice extra vibration or at the first signs of marking on the hull right above the blade, you can send your 13" prop back to Acme and they will trim a little off each blade so that it fits you boat properly."

Ricko, I'm one of the guys who had bad luck with the 540 replacement for a 12" prop. The vibration was so bad that I knew what was going on and only ran it for about 20 minutes! Trimming is not a option as far as I'm concerned. (and others) Why buy a fancy CNC prop and have it turned down - get a OJ prop instead! BTW, I really don't think that Acme is as "tuned" into the older boats like they would like you to believe!!

Please read this post from Keith.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/articles/ACME_540_Prop.asp

Very interesting. He has the same prop.

Good Evening. There is 1" from the top of the prop to the bottom of the boat. I am really spooked at this point. I took her out tonight and opened her up. It felt like something was slipping. I slowed up and brought her back to the dock and trailer slowly. Checked the prop and it was on fine, I pulled on the shaft and it feels tight. Not sure if this whole prop thing has me scared to death.

I am upset because that last prop cost me $480 bucks. I don't blame delta. I just went in and bought what ACME Prop told me. I was told that they are the best by the Antique boat store in Cincinnati.

I will call tomorrow and order a 12 LH 13 pitch. This will give me 1/2 more clearance to the bottom of the boat.

Again, I have not run it wide open. But it cruises well at 3000 RPM. I have not felt any vibrations or anything like that. Since everyone is in agreement that I need a different prop, I will get it.

Any other thoughts, please let me know.

Ricko, I found the other picture I was thinking about. It's on a Ski Tique and they were set up for 12" props. I can't tell for sure but it looks like it has a 13" prop on it. You'll notice the chucks of gel missing but also notice the large area where the gel looks etched. The prop burn or hull rash once through the harder gel, will erode into the polyester hull as well.

Ricko, I will bet the prop is too close to the hull.you should have at least 1" of clearance between the blade tip and the bottom of you boat.
This being said,you shouls have a 12" diameter prop on there,and from 13 to 14 " of pitch.
Most of these old boats do not like a 13" wheel.....
OJ Propellers builds probably the best prop for that boat and it is called the Legend.Just sent '65 Cuda one for his boat w/318 12x14 OJ Ledgend. After a weekend ask how his worked out.
You RPM"s if correct are way too low/Wrong Prop..................Boat dr

The prop they sold me was a 13 12 LH. He said putting on a larger prop would not make a difference. The folks at Acme said the same thing. I told them what I had and engine size and they said this was the prop. They also said they would do a one time change to the pitch if necessary. Hope that helps. I ran her pretty good the other night. I took her up to 3700 rpms and it ran great. I haven't dropped the hammer on it. Will do this weekend!!

13" Diameter 12 pitch that is correct!!

Well, the prop saga continues. I purchased another prop today at Delta Prop. They sold me a LH 13 12 with .08 cup. I put it on and took the boat out for a spin. It seemed to run pretty good. I noticed the bow seems to be a little higher, but I don't know if the boat was propped correctly to begin with. But as it stands right now, I am back on the water. Do you need to go slow for a bit to seat the prop, or just go for it?

I called Acme prop today and they told me to purchase this prop, and I was lucky that I live about 30 minutes from Delta Prop and they had it in stock. When I am at a good speed the RPM's are running about 3700. How does this sound.

I greatly appreciate all help on this matter. Now that I know I am not the only correct craft person around, I look forward to meeting you all.

I want to keep my boat original, and I guess I am going to have to re work her over time to keeping it original. I was told this Acme prop will give me better performance since it is not cast.

Does anyone know the pitch for the prop? Delta sold me a 15 X 1 RH. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

One of my favorite posters of all time....Jim_In_Houston! How are you? We sure have missed your special brand of humor.

BTW....where did you get that sweet hat? I just gotta have one of those!

john

ricko, Confirm that the engine is a LH. Keeping in mine that a LH will be counter clockwise viewed from the rear, looking at the front it will be running clockwise. Get a LH prop with the same diameter and pitch.

2 pages and no mention of the prop rotation!! Wow!
Ricko, Your boat should have a RH prop on it unless some one put another engine in it! Sometimes people will cheap out and put a "quick and dirty" LH block in from a car!! What does the old prop look like? Looking from the stern forward, a LH will turn counter clockwise in forward and obviously a RH will turn clockwise in forward!!

Ricko1,

The reunion is about 7-1/2 hours from you in Green Lake Wisc. Check out the Reunion banner and see who's coming.. Bunch of the best older CC's you'll ever see on water.... Make it a plan.. There are still places to stay available..

Moj'