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Prop needed for 1968 Correct Craft

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 4:17pm
Originally posted by Jim_In_Houston Jim_In_Houston wrote:

One interesting technical observation though (sorry to hijack the thread) - Since I replaced the old 4v Holley and cast iron intake with a new 4v Holley and Edelbrock aluminum intake I now need more prop. The old 289 over-revs. I guess that's a good thing.

Jim, what do you consider "over revving"? ReidP has done a lot of experimenting and has seen the best performance with a stock sized prop (12x13 OJ or 12x14 Federal on a 302), regardless of modifications. The better parts increase flow and increase RPM- but the only reason to go with a steeper prop (with regards to performance) is if youre adding cubic inches.

Dont worry, a little over 5k RPM wont do any damage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 4:37pm
That's good info TRBenj. Thanks.
The "over-reving" I am having is that when I punch it you get thrown back in the seat, the bow rises and as soon as the bow begins to come down the engine trys to go over 6 grand. I have to quickly pull back and let the boat catch up in speed. I can no longer run at full throttle at any time. After the boat catches up in speed every time I give it full throttle the RPMS try to go over 6 grand. I am surprised the old 289 holds together. I need to bite more water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 5:03pm
Originally posted by ricko1 ricko1 wrote:



Any way, I will look for a staff and socket. I an American Flag from the Aft, and would like one on the bow. I appreciate your advice.

Bon Voyage!!


Certainly get what suits you, and an American flag is a nice gesture, but you might want to think about an ensign, the standard stern flag.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 5:11pm
Jim, Im not sure you need more pitch- but a new prop might be in order! Thats some strange behavior. If youre up for ordering new, I think ReidP likes the 12x13 OJ Legend the best. Its on my to-buy list.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by ricko1 ricko1 wrote:

Not much. I really wanted to get my boat fixed prior to vacation. Of course with my love for boats, I am taking a 7 day cruise. The only way to go. I leave on Saturday. I am going to have someone pick up my boat and get this prop nut deal taken care of while I am away so I can get back in the water when I get home. One of my greatest joys, is taking a cruise on my boat. I love to see people's faces when they see it go by. I feel as though I own a peice of history.

Any way, I will look for a staff and socket. I an American Flag from the Aft, and would like one on the bow. I appreciate your advice.

Bon Voyage!!



The only real vacation would be to trailer that beauty to Green Lake, Wisc for the Reunion next month !!! July 11th-13th... Refund the tickets for the cruise and put some work into the trailer and come drink with your new buds... Bring the kids and the tube.. We'll take select engine parts off Pete's boat so he can't chase ya
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by Jim_In_Houston Jim_In_Houston wrote:

That's good info TRBenj. Thanks.
The "over-reving" I am having is that when I punch it you get thrown back in the seat, the bow rises and as soon as the bow begins to come down the engine trys to go over 6 grand. I have to quickly pull back and let the boat catch up in speed. I can no longer run at full throttle at any time. After the boat catches up in speed every time I give it full throttle the RPMS try to go over 6 grand. I am surprised the old 289 holds together. I need to bite more water.


I would add cup to you current prop to bring down the rpm before I replaced it. Try a couple people in the rear seat and see if it still does it, might help keep the bow up a little more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 7:02pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Tom, most here are skiers or boarders who use their talents and skills rather than waisting it on a brainless activity!


I don't know about all that. Seems to be an awful lot of brainless time spent on this web site. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2008 at 11:21pm
I got a problem folks. They sold me a 3/4 -10 as suggested. Darn thing won't fit. It goes on not even a full rotation. I don't want to put a wrech on it for fear of stripping the threads. Would a brass nut work better than stainless. I took some of my kids plato and made a cast of the shaft. I looks to me like the grooves are smaller on the shaft than the nut. Please let me know. I don't need a new shaft do I? This issue has me perplexed. They sold me a 12 RH 15 x 1". Can anyone confirm this to be correct. Gary at Delta Prop called someone and they told him that is what was needed. Thanks for the help!!

I am flying the ensign Flag.

How far is the reunion from Cincinnati, I would love the chance to rip up some boats for parts as mentioned...

If I get a chance from the Cruise Ship, I will check in with you all. You all make owning a Correct Craft a blast.

Anchors Away, Ricko is setting sail!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 12:03am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Your prop shaft should be a 3/4-10 thread. Look at it closely to make sure the threads aren't screwed up. I highly recommend a brass nut ether nylon locking type or castelated. Stainless to stainless can gall against itself and lock up. I had to cut the stainless one off my Tique last summer and then find a die to chase the threads on the shaft. It wasn't fun!! A simple 20 minute prop change turned into a 5 hour project. Skidim sells the brass and any marina with inboards around will have them.


Ricko, You must have missed my earlier post above!

I don't know what's up with the threads unless someone has been pounding on the end of the shaft. Have you compared the "cast" you made with a known size bolt? Measure the OD and there are thread pitch gauges to get the threads per inch. You may end up getting a die to chase the threads! If you do, look for a "rethread" hex die that you can use a wrench on instead of trying to find a handle for the die.

DO NOT try to force that stainless nut on the stainless shaft. You'll end up with more problems. I highly recommend getting a brass nut. I wonder if it had a nut on it when you bought the boat?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 12:36am
Ok, you lost me. I don't understand what is meant by a die?? It did have a nut because I looked at it before. When I had the thought, right down the prop size in case you ever need it. Oops, didn't do that. Now I am worried that they sold me the wrong prop. The sticker on it says 15 x 1 but on the prop it has 15 x 3 stamped on it. I looked at the threads and it does look like they had pounded on the end of the shaft. Hence this could be the reason I cannot get the nut to thread. If this is the case, what do I need to do. I bet it has to do with the die you said above which I don't understand.

I appreciate the education on this.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 12:54am
A tap and die are used to create threads and/or to repair threads. The die is for the male threads, the tap for the female threads.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 1:05am
Thanks for the help. Where would a person find one of these dies at?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 1:54am
Hey Jim, is the battery under the driver seat? Mine is, and it makes it lean a little.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 9:44am
Ricko, A decent hardware or even a home center should have the die. Did you try to match the "cast" you made with a know bolt? Don't forget to look for a die that is hex shaped unless you get a handle. You also may consider borrowing. Use some oil on the threads when running the die over them. BTW, 3/4" is the outside nominal diameter and the 10 is how many threads per inch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 12:18pm
all these years of messing with these shafts Pete, i found a 3/4 10 die that i bought 15 years ago in my tool box. i use it on every shaft now...ive even went as far as cutting the hammered end to get to good threads
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2008 at 3:45pm
Hey Tim. Yep the battery is under the seat but I think the listing is caused by the big butted boat driver and way too much ice cream and pie. (For all you newbies, a big butted boat driver is not some kind of special wrench I am talking about.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65 'cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2008 at 1:20pm
Ricko1,

Look me up when you get back, i'm just down the road in Loveland. My '65 needs a playmate!

Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2008 at 5:58pm
Ricko1,

The reunion is about 7-1/2 hours from you in Green Lake Wisc. Check out the Reunion banner and see who's coming.. Bunch of the best older CC's you'll ever see on water.... Make it a plan.. There are still places to stay available..

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2008 at 7:20pm
HELP!! OK... I bought a RH prop as suggested. My dad did some work on the Shaft and was able to get the nut on. Big Problem. I put the boat in the water and reverse is forward and forward is reverse. I had the prop on correctly. Does this now mean I need a LH prop? If anyone can tell me exactly what I need to do, I would greatly appreciate it!!

By the way... 7 Days on the Ocean was absolutely great!!

Thanks for the help!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2008 at 8:20pm
2 pages and no mention of the prop rotation!! Wow!
Ricko, Your boat should have a RH prop on it unless some one put another engine in it! Sometimes people will cheap out and put a "quick and dirty" LH block in from a car!! What does the old prop look like? Looking from the stern forward, a LH will turn counter clockwise in forward and obviously a RH will turn clockwise in forward!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2008 at 10:05pm
Well... The old prop is at the bottom of the river. It fell off. I went diving for it, but no luck. I do know that the engine did come out of a Dodge Durango, so I guess they did cheap out.

Any idea on the pitch or cup? Let me know. That stinks that they went cheap on the engine. I never knew that mattered until your post. They went all out on the Carb, etc. The engine looks good, real good. I guess I need to take it back to original.

Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2008 at 10:36pm
ricko, Confirm that the engine is a LH. Keeping in mine that a LH will be counter clockwise viewed from the rear, looking at the front it will be running clockwise. Get a LH prop with the same diameter and pitch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2008 at 11:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

2 pages and no mention of the prop rotation!! Wow!
Ricko, Your boat should have a RH prop on it unless some one put another engine in it!


Pete,
I could be the culprit,in my first response I made note to the RH rotation... never thought about someone changing to a car take-out

ricko, what prop did you buy?(size/pitch) / where did you get it/ will they exchange it?   sorry for the bad info..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2008 at 12:59am
One of my favorite posters of all time....Jim_In_Houston! How are you? We sure have missed your special brand of humor.

BTW....where did you get that sweet hat? I just gotta have one of those!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2008 at 1:06am
Wow, didn't see that coming. Many if not most of the folks who come to this site don't know that an older Correct Craft engine is typically reverse rotation. Accordingly, the group is always on the lookout to be sure folks get reverse rotation starter, props and other parts. There's a post going right now, where it appears the problem is a standard rotation starter was put on a reverse rotation engine.

An unfortunate mixup. I don't think very many people would have guessed the motor had been swithched out for a standard rotation motor. Most prop places will exchange the prop. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2008 at 1:54pm
Does anyone know the pitch for the prop? Delta sold me a 15 X 1 RH. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2008 at 2:43pm
Ricko, This was the first recommendation by steve (62wood) and I seconded it:"12" dia. Pitch in the 13-14 range"

Then you said: "They sold me a 12 RH 15 x 1".

The 15 I feel will be too steep a pitch. Was the 15 a used one they had? Just trying to figure out how you ended up with it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 12:12am
Well, the prop saga continues. I purchased another prop today at Delta Prop. They sold me a LH 13 12 with .08 cup. I put it on and took the boat out for a spin. It seemed to run pretty good. I noticed the bow seems to be a little higher, but I don't know if the boat was propped correctly to begin with. But as it stands right now, I am back on the water. Do you need to go slow for a bit to seat the prop, or just go for it?

I called Acme prop today and they told me to purchase this prop, and I was lucky that I live about 30 minutes from Delta Prop and they had it in stock. When I am at a good speed the RPM's are running about 3700. How does this sound.

I greatly appreciate all help on this matter. Now that I know I am not the only correct craft person around, I look forward to meeting you all.

I want to keep my boat original, and I guess I am going to have to re work her over time to keeping it original. I was told this Acme prop will give me better performance since it is not cast.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 8:38am
Ricko, Hopefully you have got the prop on correctly - you sure don't want to go through this again!!! No, if you followed the prop install proceedure, the prop will be drawn up on it's taper and there isn't any kind of "seating". Go for it!!

60's hulls (as well as earlier boats) ran bow high. This is normal. It's not a I/O with a power trim!

You said they sold you a 13 12. Typically the first number is dia. and the second is the pitch. Hopefully you have reversed the numbers. Please confirm that.

The true test of proper prop sizing is the WOT. You really don't want that 318 to see much more that 4400 RPM.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricko1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2008 at 12:49am
The prop they sold me was a 13 12 LH. He said putting on a larger prop would not make a difference. The folks at Acme said the same thing. I told them what I had and engine size and they said this was the prop. They also said they would do a one time change to the pitch if necessary. Hope that helps. I ran her pretty good the other night. I took her up to 3700 rpms and it ran great. I haven't dropped the hammer on it. Will do this weekend!!

13" Diameter 12 pitch that is correct!!
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