Carter YH Carbs?

Interesting about the "Interceptor" emblem/decal......or lack of it. I can't find a definitive photo to determine right/wrong.

Well, back from the best Dunphy outing in 5 years. Boat started and ran great...., after a bit of fiddling of course.

Went for a "pre-event" test run, and about 2K rpm the engine surged noticeably. I had installed an in-line fuel pressure regulator, and had set it very low, @ 3.5 lbs. No fuel was leaking out the carbs as before, but the small fuel volume wouldn't support more than an idle. I raised pressure by a lb. Ran much better, but still thin over 3k rpm. Raised it again for a total of 5 lbs, and ran great thereafter, Had a bit of hard starting Sunday, borrowed a fresh battery and good to go.

This old boat is always a surprise. It is fast! Swinging a stock 12x15 prop, at sea level, I got 52 mph at 4400 rpm, pretty much maxed out. (gps). Maybe most impressive....the wake, or lack of wake and spray. I had a '89 Supra Comp ts6m whose wake and spray characteristics were not surpassed by Nautique until the tsc-era boats. This 1964 wooden Dunphy is every bit as low, roostetail-less, and minimal side spray. Hope to get it back out once more this year and will get some wake videos.

Thanks again to all of you who have offered help, advice, and assistance.

Gary S wrote: Looks like a decal to me Pete

The reason I asked is I removed my tags and mailed them to Brian. He's having them reproduced by 3D printing. Funny, I had to mail him twice. I removed the tags from one side and after Brian got them he asked me for the other sides "flag". I forgot that the flags are left and right handed!!   

Looks like a decal to me Pete

Here we go, all bridled, saddled, and ready to go. Fingers crossed!!

The Dunphy is BACK!!!! Success...so far. Jon Francis (aka Extratx) knows YH carbs better then I.
I finally got everything back together, after throughly bench testing each carb, then the entire intake/carbs unit. Even though Jon was unable to install/run the setup on his boat, he felt confident with the results.
The boat cracked to life with the first flick of the key. Not a drip or drop so far.
Turns out there was a myriad of issues, perhaps most notably a 'rotted' carb body which was letting fuel past the main jet, and horribly adjusted accelerator pumps.
I did double-check the float levels after 5 days with UPS. All good.
So, this weekend will be the first 'road test' at the annual ACBS Delta Cruise in the Sac River Delta. If everything works, I'll 'hard-line' the remote fuel pressure regulator into place. It will be successful if it does not involve a paddle and/or a long rope.
Stay tuned, and thanks again Jon Francis. His willingness to help is above and beyond.

Extratx, I've sent you a Private message. Thx

No clue why my attachment rotate

Extratx wrote: I'll make you a deal. Give it your best effort, and if they still leak, send me your intake with carbs attached, and two new rebuild kits. I will rebuild them and put your stack on my boat to test them to make sure they are correct, Gratis. I've already received tons of help from you guys which is invaluable to me.

Jon,
I'm sure glad there are many out there including yourself and myself that can handle a YH carb. rebuild one and not have any problems with leakage.

Just want to warn you that Pete has just recently become known as the "Overlord of the Leakers", the leakers being the YH carburetors, but if you keep up this kind of good stuff you'll inherit his Overlord status and he'll be relegated to being a mere lord.

Ha

Thanks Extratx for the reply.
I know these carb can be made to work....I just haven't found/corrected the leak source.
I do have the tiny vacuum tube installed and working. The floats themselves and the 'seating' of the needle/seat is something requiring more attention.

Thanks for the tip(s)...will report when rebuilt yet again. I'm also going to pressure test the float bowl for crack/porosity, and anything else anyone can think of...

One more thing. When you have your floats out, dip them in fairly hot water, say around 120 degrees F, and look carefully for any tiny bubbles. If you see bubbles, your float has a hole. The hot water expands the air in the float and will push out some air if it isn't sealed. If you have bubbles, locate the source, and solder that guy back closed after making sure there isn't any fuel or water in the float.

Brian,
Yes, that's what the manual says. IF I remember I started with those dimensions when I rebuilt and then did lowered the aft slightly more say 3/8.

MourningWood wrote: Yes, I have the Interceptor manual with the 'marine' float settings which were carefully followed....

Brian,
Again, all I can suggest is to try lowering the aft float level.