Replacing trailer bearings on my 1988

I think that it might be a good idea to replace my trailer bearings on my 1988 diamond plate Correct Craft trailer before going to Green Lake! For years now I only trailer twice a year from storage to the launch ramp in the Spring and repeat this in the Fall. The trailer does sit in indoor storage all year round! I have added grease through the years, but wanted to know or get some input on brands of bearings. Maybe what to stay away from! What are the best places to purchase them and any helpful tips on installation.

Here you go Pauly. I did bearings and brakes right before the river trip.

Trailer Parts Sources

storm34 wrote: I replaced my bearings on our 88 SN trailer a few times in a few years. I used parts from Napa, which was a bad choice. Could have been due to not fitting correctly or just cheap parts. We take a trip each year about 2 hrs each way and when we got back they were SHOT! Last year, had some work done at a trailer shop and haven't had any problems. Just FYI, I had no luck with NAPA parts.

Well I doubt it was actually NAPA's fault since they didn't manufacture the bearings, might have been a bad batch of bearings, but I would say that they either where not the correct bearings that needed to be used and/or they where installed incorrectly.

I've put bearings on many a car, and trailers using what NAPA sells with out any issues or complaints or problems from customers, friends or using them myself.

how did that happen

I don't feel it was a NAPA problem ether. Now if you had gotten the bearings at Autozone, that's another story!!!

I bought a "Redline" bearing/race/seal? kit a few years ago. I took a picture of the sticker that showed all the sizes of the pieces, but cannot find it now. I think you can get Timkens at Napa, which seem to be good. The Redline kit says made in China... :( I didn't know this when ordering online, I think it was from etrailer.com.

Yeah, pay attention to both the ID as well. I had the guy at the local trailer shop pull some out and he only matched up the OD. The ID was bigger and they obviously didn't fit the spindle. My mistake for not looking at them myself, had to go back the next day.

I like the idea of buying the parts from NAPA, they are just down the road from me. Morfoot added that he would send me the part numbers, that would be great! I really appreciate all the help.

Pauly,

I am planning on doing the same thing this weekend. This thread helped me alot.

Donald

This is great info. I've had my boat for almost 12 years and have never replaced the bearings. I've made several trips to Minnesota and Iowa and knock on wood, have never had a problem yet. I do add grease every year and I am always feeling the hubs when I stop to make sure they are not hot.

I need to replace the bearings before going to GL. I remember helping my dad probably 20 years or more ago changing his bearings but now I'm a little worried about not doing it right.

Anyone have any good pictures of how to take the hub apart and removing and installing the bearings and seals?

Some of you may recognize this boat and trailer

Hollywood wrote: Some of you may recognize this boat and trailer

WELL couple of thoughts, you really should use the right tool to drive in the races, very risky method suggested IMHO, and if they are not seated completely then they will loosen up and your sitting on the side of the road scratching your head. Go to the local auto parts store and rent the tool and do the job right.

Secondly it really doesn't take twenty minutes to get the races out, there should be a slot/groove in the hub exposing a small section of the back side of the race, get a good punch and give it a coule good wacks and it'll pop out pretty quickly, 20 minutes is all the longer the whole job should take, not just getting the races out.

TIP to get the rear seal out quickly and in tact, pop of the front bearing then with the hub still on the spinde screw the retaining nut back on, then slowly pull the hub forward untill the nut clears the race for the front bearing then let the hub drop a little so that is basicly drags on the top of the spindle until it stops, you've just catch the leading eadge of the rear bearing, now give it a good yank, pull down and towards you. The rear bearing and seal will be left on the spindle and the hubs ready for clean up and new races if needed.

In a pinch you can use the method to pack the bearings, but it's much cleaner, and you can pack them better if you use the correct tool, clean them and then take them to a local alignment shop and the'll shot them full of grease for you pretty cheap if you don't want to buy the tool or have one all ready on hand.

making sure the races are completely seated is very crittical if not then as you use the trailer they will seat themselves and loosen the preload on the bearing and then they'll turn to junk and snap the spindle before you know it.

Tim it takes a lot longer to do the job and for someone that isn't all that handy it can get you into trouble very quickly. But then I only spend about 15 minutes a wheel start to finish and don't waiste twenty minutes geting a race out.

Bruce, that #2 should be a piece of cake. Axle and springs are oddball sizes, but the hubs and bearings are standard issue. From memory, theyre 1" inner and outer. For $35/ea, Id just get new hubs.

I did all 3 of my #2's last spring.

Awesome, thanks Eric!