UK’s 78 SN

I then machined off the top to give a flat face to fix the pylon and mixed up epoxy filler to tidy the frame up,to make the tube just unrolled the pallet wrap to .2mm bigger than my pylon and rolled some quad around it wrapped with more pallet wrap,when dry I put it in a bucket of water to soak the cardboard tube in the middle pull out and the film that's left will fold in and pull out,this way you can make a tube to a real good fit.
I then spun it off to a hole saw size I had again to get a good fit.
Before I drilled the hole I added extra glass sheet inside to the top and bottom of the mid box epoxied in and 2 end infills.

I made a frame up 2mm smaller than my stringers in the boat, then put a rad on the top inside edge,the cross section I held together with tape so I can fold it in on its self when dry, covered the frame with PVC sheeting.
The frame is made using Quad Axle 5 layers and all laid up in one go,I soaked all my Quad with epoxy and left to soak as I then wrapped around the frame,the epoxy will not kick when its in the Quad so you have lots of time it took me around 11/2 hours to do on my own.




I made 2 wedges that push the Quad around my cable trays when I wrapped it all in pallet wrap then rolled over it to get a good glass,epoxy mix if I had to much epoxy in one place I slit the wrap and pushed it out.


Left overnight then unwraped and move onto the next stage.

kapla wrote: pictures don´t do justice!! lol composite cradle!!nice..what did you use as a template?

Sebastian,Will post how I made it just working on resizing the pictures I have

Cheers Roger.

Thought I have a go at making an engine cradle that would stand up to sea water too,turned out to be a bit of a journey, had some old architectural bronze (more brass than bronze) so made my first one trouble with it I don't think the boat would get up on the plane as it came in at 80lb so had to think again and came up with this much better at 24.4lb

Cass, you should be able to use hull side,but you will need to mod the tops of the stringers to the cradle that the 81 SN have.
I would add 2 or 3mm to the drawings hull side to give you some extra to scribe to your hull as they a will differ hull to hull.

Post an email address and I will ping them over.

Thanks guys, if you can do a stringer job this is easy just take your time and measure twice before you cut,if not sure time for a beer.

Yep Chris will not like this for sure.   

Quite an ambitious do-it-yourself project without the benefit of a machine shop......nice work Roger, looks like you had a great plan.

Had a go at machining the heads for more lift using the cutters I picked up at GL, I have to say they worked real well cut the cast nice and clean, made a simple rig to do it on and take a mag drill I used to take the rocker boss down for screw in type I later found there is a cutter for this by Goodson.
Vortec heads are only good for around 0.465 lift have taken down the valve guides now will take 0.600 lift, there are a few ways to do this beehives offset retainers,my way is more old school.
Its just not worth sending them out here to be re worked compared to the cost of a new after market set.

Pulled the rocker studs, I let them soak over night first with releasing oil then heat up each boss with a Map gas gun ( around 2min of heat then pull ) worked for me.



Leveled up the stud boss along the heads the tapped the threads in.





Now made a plug just over 3/8 and worked along the head taking the boss down for the new rocker studs.



On the valve guides used these cutters.



Spring seat first making sure I only go down to the old spring depth.



Then use the other to cut down the valve guide height and it machines for new valve seals, I made a disc that I put on and cut down to it each time giving me the same height along the head.



Finnished head just need to open out the push rod holes to 1/2 inch



Head Rig.

8122pbrainard wrote: 79TiqueRebuild wrote: Roger, Is that a special router for metal? I just thought they were for wood. A decent vari or multi speed router will go slow enough to get the RPM's down to where the FPM at the cutting edge is proper for aluminum. Then it's just a matter of what bit you put in. I've used milling cutters in my router many times. A good example is using a up or down cut spiral bit when they are not available to the standard line of "woodworking" bits. It doesn't matter what you use to turn the bit!!!

Monty, As Pete spotted its just a variable speed router and yes you should use spiral / ali cutters , but I needed depth so used a cheapo worktop 2 flue cutter, can use tipped wood cutters at a pinch just take it slow and not to much in one go,as I had taken most out with a drill I then opened it out with the router and jig then changed cutter size to do the top, the old ali machined real good, it must improve with age as the stuff I use today is not like it.

79TiqueRebuild wrote: Roger, Is that a special router for metal? I just thought they were for wood.

A decent vari or multi speed router will go slow enough to get the RPM's down to where the FPM at the cutting edge is proper for aluminum. Then it's just a matter of what bit you put in. I've used milling cutters in my router many times. A good example is using a up or down cut spiral bit when they are not available to the standard line of "woodworking" bits.

It doesn't matter what you use to turn the bit!!!

Chris, The pin in my pylon was not coming out no matter what,I had to drill out and then only down 2.3/4 in the rest I left in, had a pilot hole down 3.5/8in and still steel, a pin swap is not a case of knocking out the spring pin and change out the old for new in my case,can see your point but the old socket is not in good shape in the hull so if I'm changing it out tried this way.

79nautique wrote: are you going to mount a camera to follow the line? is that the purpose for all the extra work to the pylon.

Chris, I hadn't thought about that but I like it, when she finished will run allot in salt water and the old pin was shot.

are you going to mount a camera to follow the line? is that the purpose for all the extra work to the pylon.

Just an update on how I made Pete's idea on a reverse pin for the pylon just added a little Tim idea to it and I think its worked real sweet, the old CCF recipe book is working well.
Put the grease line though a mount hole until I decide were to place it on the floor so you don't stub your toe.
The pin is 13/16 bronze and the socket in the pylon is bronze, where I put the grease line in there is a grove inside the socket to let the grease flow around the pin.
I use the same holes that where holding the old steel pin, now one is the grease line and the other is an extra set screw to hold in the socket body, but made it a press fit (hammer and block) into the pylon, put a grove around the top and put some RTV around just before the final push in.

Thanks Monty,as Eric said it just bolts up where the oil filter is,then through a oil cooler like you have on the tranny,then up through the remote filter,I think it uses a Ford one so I will have some Ford.
We need a update on your boat, I like how you sealed the hull before you foamed.

Eric,like the car and thanks for showing me how a Chevy engine should done.

Here's how I worked on the pylon and how it turn out.

Got the shape back with this.



Then file it up then sanded it.


Monty this is the st up.


Roger.