UK’s 78 SN

uk1979 wrote: put a grove around the top and put some RTV around just before the final push in.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth a patent I always say.

Wow Roger, better get back on those meds!

BuffaloBFN wrote: uk1979 wrote: put a grove around the top and put some RTV around just before the final push in. If it's worth doing, then it's worth a patent I always say. Wow Roger, better get back on those meds!

Greg I get so far down the road then have to turn round to check my front door locks, looks like its mail order meds for me   

Roger,
Looks like a lot of work but gets the job done. I'm cool with your "old school" methods! It's actually good that Chris is taking a break as I'm sure he would have a few comments on the method!!

MDF for fixturing!!

Roger you are one handy fella! I learn a lot reading about all of your interesting projects.

I am a newbie to this site and as a owner of a SN. This has been a great thread to follow, Thank-you. I do have a question for you, would the stringer drawing you have be the same for a '81 SN? If so could you send the CAD file, I will need it for my next project? Thanks, C

Thanks!!! cbtdevelopment at comcast dot net

pictures don´t do justice!!
lol
composite cradle!!nice..what did you use as a template?

download the VSO image resizer..resolution 800 x 600 fits nice in the screen, very simple to use...

The first picture you can see some glass hanging that I pulled out a bit of Quad and used like string to hold the mid section together before I wrapped with pallet wrap.



I trimmed up and added the wings for engine mounts and a small bit of extra glass string to level up the top.

Roger,
It always impresses me on how creative you get!

Once the top and bottom braces had been glassed on I then wrapped the socket around the outside onto the main frame with 3 layers of quad.

Will add a flat to one side at the bottom so I can make a twist lock on the bottom of the pylon.
On a side note I tried the 3M epoxy on plastic pipe after a light sanding it works real well and as its a modified epoxy has some flex too,down side its not cheep but it is sold in small tubes.

Here are some pictures of the mock engine and drive to see how it works out, looks like I need to put a 1/2in glass packer under the front mounts to leave good adjustment, I used the idea off the site (think its Pete's) and made a collar that is a snug fit on the log with an inch hole for the shaft,left a shoulder on it to stop it working down the log then tape on a stick to hold the shaft out to the size I was shooting for and set my mounts to fit.
If you make the collar quite long I found the log sets the shaft out.

Shall now spot the fixing holes so I can drill out to take some bronze threaded bushes I'm going to bond in with the 3M Epoxy so I end up just bolting down through the cradle locking it up,at the front will bond on mounts(see mdf mock up) that the cradle slides under and locked by the engine mounts, this way if I take the engine out I can pull the pylon and the cradle should slide out from under the floor.

Switching to a PCM drive has lowered the front of the engine by 3'3/4in, as for stringer height off the hull I would now shoot for 7in(mine are at 6'1/2) to underside of mounts at the front( note PCM have 3 sizes of engine block mounts for Chevy I'm using the short) and 6in to the underside of the rear mounts.
If your going to use a cradle you need to take the thickness off along with the drain tray from the above sizes and all sizes are from engine side of stringers.
The prop shaft will need to be shortened by 4in all sizes are working off a distance from end of the log to the coupling of 6'3/4 which leave room to fit a PSS seal and places the engine where its always been but lower.

Here is a picture of the Polaris duckbill may fit existing set ups.

you're right up there on the OCD list

This is what I have come up with for a pylon pin holder to glass onto the hull.

Wrapped the pin with 1 layer if cling film 0.03mm thick then first wrapped a layer of Kevlar followed by 1.2m run of biax carbon fiber round tight held in place with more cling film.
Once dry spun off round on a lathe and more carbon biax 2.6m added
spun off again giving me the tube, then just tapped the pin out and removed the cling film, shall make a carbon plug to bond into base with a thread set in it to screw the pylon pin onto.
Not sure yet if I will add an O ring or just some sealer around the top of the housing and pin.
The wall thickness of the housing has come out at 12.7mm
Shall use the carbon sleeving to bond down to the hull, in the picture I have turned the sleeve in on itself giving me 2 layers, the bands are there just to show how it wraps round, will use cling film when I bond in place.
Will add more layers after that and finish off with the carbon biax.