1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

A sealed cap on straight, loose fitting thin walled PVC will also float up extending the guide. Of course a tall enough guide to begin with won't ever be a problem. CC was pretty generous with their guide heights.

For those of you with short guides that land below the rub rail, driver head covers make cheap caps!

Not all boat/trailer combinations will have chine/guide interference even at extreme angles (our bfn is not one of these cases)... I agree with the rest. I'd still put the hose/tubing around the bend, if possible, though!

Pete, I'm thinking I went with 1.5" PVC then (closer to 2" od) as you'd never get flex PVC over a bent pipe with tightly matching id/od... It's not THAT flexible.

Arklie,
Unlike Joel, I go the non corrosive route with clamping the tubing to the inside of the trailer channel. I've used ether plastic (black UV resistant) or aluminum one hole tube straps. Joel's method with the dropouts works. I've done it two ways. Ether cut the hole like Joel or simply stop and start the tubing.

Tim, The OD of 1&1/4" pipe is 1&5/8". Yes on the capping of the tops. It will keep the water out as long as you don't try and get the tubing all the way down and around the bend. As mentioned, going that low is not needed.

Any "pad" that can't rotate will get shredded from the rub rail. Loose hard PVC is best because it will roll. However, the compound curves of these guides make that rather impossible. I've many times considered redesigning the poles to finish up straight, but they just don't look proper. So far flex PVC is the best, which is what CC used in the late 80s. Or, leave them off entirely!

I had been dreading the removal of the hose from the guides, but it only took about 30 seconds each with a Sawzall. I expected what I found underneath-not only surface rust but also serious pitting.








Looks like some folks purchase the trailer guide pads from the site. I like those, but are they as good as the Trident Flex hose? The overall diameter of the guides appear to be 1 5/8 - 1 11/16. The Trident hose comes in 1 3/4", 1 7/8", and 2". I think the 2" would be too loose, but thinking the 1 3/4 would be tough to get around the lower bend. Anyone tackled this before?

Joel, Pete,
I like the idea of the PEX or PVC. Couple of questions.
1-How did you handle the dropouts to the marker and clearance lights?
2-How did you secure the conduit/pipe to the trailer?

On another note, after spending a good amount of time looking around on CCF and a few other websites I finally convinced myself what the correct part number is for the Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket for marine use. Here are a few Summit part numbers for those in a similar situation.

Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket-17998
Felpro valve cover gaskets-VS13264T
Felpro Timing cover gasket set-TCS45449
Melling standard volume, standard pressure oil pump-M83
ARP-Oil Pump Driveshaft - 154-7901
Timing chain and gear set- Double roller with steel sprokets-CCA-2138

Got all of that for $176 with free shipping. The oil pan gasket was $45, which is about 1/2 what it is from some of the dedicated marine supply houses. Plus, the dedicated marine supply houses will not list the part number.

I am still looking for the correct part number for the oil pressure and water temperature sending units. If anyone knows what they are could you please share?

On another, nother note. I pulled the hubs apart last night to check the bearing and races out. The grease seals were pretty much finished off and the evidence was the grease splatter all over the inside of the wheels and axle. The part number on mine was 171255TC. Etrailer has a direct replacement set of 2 from TruRyde, which is a double lip seal; part number RG06-050. Cost was $5.49 for the set of 2. Hoping to get the hubs cleaned up and primed tonight.

Joel,
Am I looking at some of them?

8122pbrainard wrote: Then I suggest not using the 3M type insulation displacement connections. Water gets into the wire and the untinned wire corrodes causing problems.

The trailer looks great.

If you don't have one, you should save and clean up one wheel and maybe the best tire for a spare.

Original style wheel/tire packages seem to be widely available and at very reasonable prices.

If that tab is on the frame near the axle it could be the mount for the brake line flex hose. Steel line from master cylinder to there,then the hose from there to the axle to a T,then steel line to each brake plate.

Thanks, All, for the suggestions. I too think sandblasting is the best option, but finding a capible firm around these parts is highly problematic. I have done more than my fair share of sandblasting, including blasting the entire hull on our houseboat.

I simply went with a knotted wire brush on a big Milwaukee side grinder, a smaller knotted wire brush on a small Milwaukee side grinder and a few brass wire brushes chucked in drill motors to reach into the tighter spots. I have the entire main frame cleaned up and in 1 coat of Rustoleum primer.



I have also have the nose frame prepared for primer as well and also the nose jack.





Pete answered one of my trailer questions. Here is another. Anyone know the purpose of this tab with the large hole it it? It's welded to the bottom of the Starboard trailer frame rail.



I also pulled the leaf springs off the axle and I am considering taking them apart and cleaning up each individual leaf and repainting them as well.

We have had some cold weather (relatively) here the last few days, so on those nights I installed the fuel cell and hooked up the filler hose, fuel line, vent hose, etc. Also installed the exhaust mufflers and exhaust hose between the mufflers and the exhaust port fittings. I got the cradle lagged in properly, will will need to take the bolts back out and CPES the penetrations and reinstall them with 5200. Coming along.

gun-driver wrote: Not sure of what safety gear was being used. They call I haul.

had to LOL....

had written on the inside tool cabinet door on my underground truck.."nobody gets hurt"..had to read that everyday everytime I got out a tool..makes one think all the time. I used to drive guys crazy with all the "safety crap"...but "nobody got hurt"

are you in East Tennessee Arklie?

BTW...Haiti was..well..life changing. would never be able to express it in a few words.




john

gun-driver wrote: Stay away from the wire wheels!!! You would be amazed at how many people end up in the ER from those spinning flechette dispensers. I’ve seen those wires stuck in eyes, faces, necks you name it. Get some 3M 24 grit grinding discs and have at it then any bad grinding marks can be taken out with some 36 grit discs.

Paul,
No safety gear? I've done plenty of wire wheeling with the big grinders and never had a problem. Yes, care is needed but also don't buy the cheap wire wheels from the big box stores that throw their wires! Encapsulated wire brushes work great too. Repeating myself, you won't get the grinding marks out. A light wire brushing and a penetrating primer is all that's needed.

Yup, Gary has the best method - sandblast it.

Have it sandblasted,you get a better job and someone else gets dirty

Yes, Pete. Going to use a combination of methods, but primarily starting with a big-azz Milwaukee with a knotted wire brush. One of the worse job site injuries I have saw was when a laborer got a wire brush tangled up in a flannel shirt.