1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

Thanks, Zach. Good idea. Yes, adding the complete exhaust manifolds with risers made a huge difference that was obvious just in pushing the stand around. Since it will be a few weeks before I reinstall it I will figure out a way to crib it up on the stand.

Seems like the opinions around these parts about electronic vs point ignition is every bit as robust as foam vs no foam. I have no presuppositions about how it will work for me. The conversion was simple, and just as simple to reverse, at probably 5 -10 minutes. PerTronix has been around for a long time, that in its self doesn't mean everything, but it does mean something. With over 3,500,000 units sold they are relevant. I will see for myself.

During the rebuild of the Holley 4160 I dropped the electric choke cover with element inside. It proved to be pretty rotten and the element broke away from the cover. I may have been able to epoxy it back together, but decided it was probably a bad idea. So that was a $30 lesson. Fortunately a local speed shop had the replacements in stock. The fuel line from the pump to the carb was not metal all the way, so I replaced it as well. Got it installed on the engine last evening.



Hopefully, tonight I will be able to orient the distributor and makeup the Taylor 8mm plug wires and get them installed. That should pretty much finish up the engine work until I mate it with the Velvet Drive and install it. Earlier this week I dropped the old skins along with the doghouse, coaming pads and seat frames at a local upholstery shop. Earlier on I had decided on Christine's, but changed my mind recently. I am confident that Christines would have been a great choice. The lady who reupholstered my boat 20 years ago is out of business, but I found out some of her employees are working at the shop I decided on. Hoping for a good job since I am pretty picky.

While I am waiting on the interior I am turning my attention on the carpet installation and reinstalling the coupler on the prop shaft. Looks like the proper method is to hijack the kitchen stove and bring it up to 500* before installation?

phatsat67 wrote: My points have somewhere in the neighborhood of 600-700 hours on them and I haven't touched them once since they were installed.

Exactly what I and others have said many times!! The EI conversions are simply BS hype bling!! Some not reliable and do absolutely nothing to the performance of the engine.

Here is the Fram canister I mentioned above. I reinstalled it a few nights ago after cleaning it up and replacing the internal filter element.

phatsat67 wrote: Points till I die.

Same here. Everyone over here at the marina is trying to convince me to change to EI...
But I'm sticking to points, since the engine still runs like a charm... So, no motivation whatsoever to change anything

Cool Pete, it was a brand new NOS part when I installed it. I just don't want it to lock up and send metal throughout the engine. It probably has about 600ish hours on it and hasn't been out since I installed it. Only loosened for timing adjustments.

make it 2. I have 1600 hours on a 92 SN and have not had ignition issues.

Points till I die.

Pete, while I had my Dizzy out painting the 351 the shaft felt awfully tight. I think I might send it over to the local ignition specialist and have it gone through. Thoughts?

Morfoot wrote: I must be an exception

As always!!

The filter I was talking about (Fram HPG1)is not really a water separator, it is purely a particulate filter.

I agree with everyone that Fram oil filters are one step above no filter.

Watauga wrote: and the Fram particulate filter reinstalled on the on the cradle.

Pete, how could you have missed this??



Watauga, that engine looks sweet. Keep posting pics!

Thats good information, Pete. Yes, the kit i purchased from Amazon had the tap, insert tool and a good number of inserts. I also had to purchase the correct drill bit since it was a size i did not own. I didn't know of another source for the inserts, now i do.

Chris, yes, i understand that there are some who have had good results and others who regretted the conversion. I am not sure I will be happy, but thought i would take a shot. I plan to document the experience; perhaps my experience will help someone else out in the future.

I am unsure about chucking the ballast resistor. I understand that it is no longer necessary with the new units, although you can still use it if you wish. We shall see.

Pete, that's a challenge. I think i will do the calculation and take a stab at it! Do you think i could loosen and then torque using the crow foot method without using new riser gaskets? Are they one and done, or reusable?

And, yes, i purchased the Helli-coil brand. I purchased the entire kit specifically to undertake this job. I didn't know an off brand existed. Who would take that chance? I have full confidence with the repair.

Watauga wrote: the risers I torqued to simply "goodandtight", since it seems that it would be overly troublesome to invent some way to accurately torque them.

No invention needed It's very easy as long as you have a crows foot and know what you are doing.

Did you actually use a helicoil or a generic insert?