1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

79TiqueRebuild wrote: The Lowes I shop at had Douglas fir in 1xs it was back by the hardwoods. I had to dig through them to get good ones though. Monty

Monty,
Are you sure it was Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir)? Was it labeled as such or just "Fir"? The SPF (spruce, pine, fir) "white woods" is very broad with 48-55 species of evergreen conifers. A common "fir" in the SPF group would be a "Balsam" Fir. Mo. is a pretty long distance from the Pacific Northwest!!!!

Scott,
The common 1x's you'll find at Lowes most likely be a pine which is fine. There will however be a couple grades. Look at the prices. My concern with the common #1&2 would be moisture content, cupping, twisting, bowing and of course the knots.

I am not sure, but I think you will need to set your primaries 1/2 toward the gunnels. I am guessing that if you set them 1/2 inch toward the centerline of the boat, you may have trouble with the engine mounts. ICBW. I'm not entirley familiar with the engine mounts/width on your style of boat.

BKH

Thickened epoxy fixes everything stop worrying

I remember a local hardware rental place wanted $75 per day to rent a chainsaw I needed for a weekend. I went and bought a little one for $160 and it lasted me 10 years before it gave up the ghost.

Jig saw work fine for us. Just make sure you have some good blades. Watch any tight radiuses as sometimes the blade will have the tendency to bend and cut a different pattern on the bottom.

If your old stringer is usable as a pattern I would use it as opposed to a dimensioned drawing (although we dimensioned the old before it was removed not knowing how it would come out). We did as Mike did, traced the old, cut, then clamped the two pieces together, and cut the bottom angle with a power planner to match the original. My son used the power planner and I followed with a hand planner to clean it up.
For the drain holes on the bottom of stringer we did not cut as tall as a hole as others, only about an inch, and we located them at the low spot when on the trailer and about at the water pick ups in the rear. On the top of the stringer we cut only as required for the engine mounts of the engine we are putting back in. I looks like CC cut the originals to accommodate a verity of engines. The notches for the floor battens is really your call. We are at 12" on center which worked well with the flooring material layout, seat base, and is tight enough so 1/2" material can be used. The secondary stringers follow the primary.

FrankT

       

Scott,
Sorry my description is hard to understand. Sometimes putting a process into words isn't easy!

If your old stringers did come out and still fit fairly good to the hull, then you can rely on them more just as Mike did.

A band saw is idea for cutting the curvature but I understand we all don't have one. Next best toll I would choose would be the hand power circular saw - "Skil saw". No it won't go around corners but will rough cut in sections. Just be careful!! Your jig saw for ripping 2" isn't going to hack it!! Do look into a power hand planer. I believe Harbor tool has a basic inexpensive one.

+1 on the power planar!!!

My stringers came out intact. I cut the long side, stood them on the tops, and duplicated them to their respective originals with the power planar. I bet it did not take 20 minutes each.

WakeSlayer wrote: Do NOT use silicon. If in fact the wood is in really good shape, I think it is ok to get after the rest of the project. I do NOT think this is the right way to do it, but you guys that are in the beginning phases of your stringer jobs simply are not going to have boats this year if you do not get going quickly. I would prefer you replaced it. Use 3m 5200 Marine Sealant, and glass around the back side of it like it was. You were probably taking water in there if it just came free after removing the flange. Not replacing the wood at this time is just my opinion and I expect to be flamed a bit for it. But you do want a boat to use pretty soon.

Good grief I just spent 50 minutes staring at my old stringer sitting on top of the new stringer and cannot figure out how to cut the angle side of the new board to match the contour of the boat hull. You would think its just a matter of copying the old board but its not that easy. Any suggestions?

Ok, go ahead and let me have it ..........what's a tuber?

Scott,
Through the silicone out!! Everyones correct that the stuff isn't the greatest. You haven't been around long enough to know there are several things I'm very opinionated about. One of them is silicone!!! Have you ever noticed it doesn't stick very well at times? It won't even stick to itself. As mentioned, go with 5200 or 4200 which has slightly less adhesive qualities.

BTW, a couple others are tubers and of course keepin it original!!   

One small bit of black at the bottom but otherwise it looks brand new. Now I have to do the other side. Thanks for ya'lls input.

The new Doug Fir underneath the old one(Gas tank end)


Exhaust hole from the outside(The yellow is some sort of glue)


Exhause hole from the inside:

One of mine was bad, one was good. You could see moisture wicking out in the dust if you let it sit overnight. It will only take a half hour or so to cut them out now. If you wait your new stringers will be in the way and the process will be much more challenging. I am still researching a material to put back in lieu of wood. Some type of poly wood be nice. All these pieces do is pick up the trim ring screws and provide an additional thickness for sealing. My original pipes where glassed in and I plan on using a marine adhesive/sealant when I reinstall.

FrankT       

So you just left the plate, and just removed the pipe? You are lucky if it is in that good of shape. Did you check both? or just one.
In the interest of time, I would say leave it, and repair it later if necessary. You really need to get cracking on the stringer structure in order to have the boat for the summer. That is the only reason I would suggest putting it off. If this were November or December, I would say do it regardless. Mine were over half mush. Just black soup.

Just a time sensitive suggestion is all.