1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

WakeSlayer wrote: srbranum wrote: 81nautique wrote: Bevel square. ??????? I suspect Alan was telling you what one of your antique tools is called. It is the two piece flat one he is referring to.

Sliding bevel square:

Scott,

It looks like you're doing a good job. I notice there is still quite a bit of "color" in the bilge and I can't tell from the pictures if you glassed over it a little bit. That "color" is the pigmented resin that was talked about earlier in this thread. Make sure you aren't glassing over that as it won't adhere well. I just took the approach of grinding it off all the way to the center on mine, just to be safe.

Are you wrapping the entire stringers with glass? If so, they seem pretty squared off. You're probably going to want to round over the edges with a router. The glass lays easier on a radius than a 90.

Bevel square.

Here is what I accomplished today:

This is a picture of the notch I cutout of the the beam, one in front and one in back



Here are the secondary stringers. They are not glassed in yet. I still have cross supports to install and another piece beside the exhaust hole. I also have to put the gas tank support piece on the top rear of the stringer:





Need all inputs. Have not heard from a bunch of you guys in a while.

Thanks,

scott

Frank,

Taking a break. Read what I told Pete two posts above. I used my new plunge router. Set two scrap boards level with the top of the beam as a guide for the bottom of the router to run on, plunged it down until it hit the top of the beam and then went down another 5/8th inch for the thickness of the plywood I am using, turned it on and cut out the area in question then used my block plane pictured, chisel and sander to make it perfect. Will post a picture soon.

RE: If you drip epoxy resin somewhere, don't think you can pick it up later. I did this and now have to grind for thirty minutes removing what I spilled.

Here are some antique tools I am using to rebuild the stringers: Level, block plane, tool to measure angels and a scribing device similiar to a compass:



Headed out to the garage for about six hours of work.

scott

Scott,
The router is a good idea but may be more than you really need to make the lap joint cutout. I'd stick with the saw kerfs and then finish it off with a chisel.

How wide are the notches. You may be able to use a router. I would use a skill saw first. Set your blade to the depth you want your notches. Cut across at each end of the notch. Next, Use a router bit for cutting grooves on a tongue and groove. Try to use a wide one if you can. Just set the router bit to the depth you want the notches and take out the material between the saw cuts. This isn't goint to work well if the notches are sider than the circular table on the router. If you do it this way be careful. It's easy to slip up witht he router and ram through wood you didn't want to take out.

One idea. Someone else probably has a better one.

BKH

Scott,
Don't worry, you never put out the wrong message!

You may not find very much on CPES on their site. It was designed for wood repair. You will find new wood application instructions in the pamphlet that comes with it.

CPES as a sealer/primer in boats come from the restoration of wood boats and not the replacement of stringers in glass boats.
It works so well, that the method was started with our stringer jobs.

Just to add to this, I just got my order of more the other day and was reading the literature they sent along. Their absorption test is pretty amazing. Scott, go look at their website and see all the testing they've done, etc. I agree with Pete in that I'm sure you could mix it up on your own, but why? And risk getting it wrong? My boat is a bit bigger than yours and I ended up ordering 4 of the two quart kits. It cost me about $250. Not too awful much in the grand scheme of things.

Scott,

Unless the new stringer tops are crooked you shouldn't have to plane the tops at all. Put the two stringers on the saw horses flat top to top to verity. If the new is high you should plane the bottom to lower it. It looks like you may already have you new stringer in but if not I would recommend using it as the template for the other. In fact on mine I clamped all four together and did my floor batten layout up front so I know this would be the same. The primary stringers where mirror images but the secondaries differed somewhat on the bottom, probably due to the amount of floor grinding I did.

A lot of people have had good success sealing up the stringers before putting them in the boat as the resin is thin and a lot of it will end up in the bottom of the boat. Laying them flat allows the wood to absorb a lot more. Cutting the top notches before you install the stringers is also easier done before installing.

Pete recommendation to radius the top edge before glassing is a good one as the cloth will be easier to get to lay. Likewise at the bottom make a good fillet with thickened epoxy. I found the back of a plastic spoon works well for this. Getting the cloth to lay can be difficult especially thicker and it is easier to use two thin in lieu of one thick in most cases.    

FrankT     

Pete,

Yes, a brand new one for this project. Will do. I plan on covering the entire primary stringers with glass and that should do the trick.

I will remove the old gelcoat. I was going to buy some color pigment to mix in for the bilge covering. I remember purchasing some pigment from my resin supplier before when I built that hunting boat so I will get with him.

If I do everything I plan to do, I see me buying a bunch more epoxy. Bought a six gallon kit to start and had some already but I bet I buy at least another six gallons.

I used another antique block planer my grandfather willed to me to make the top of the new stringer perfectly level with its companion still in the boat. I will post a picture of these old tools I am using tomorrow.
It just makes the project more personal to me.


scott

Here is my progress to date.. Here are two shots of my stringers. The secondary ones are not in place but just set up for the picture:





I decided to use two floor supports from underneath my house to support the floor while I work on it. Works perfect. You can buy them at Lowe's:



Ya'll got any comments for me?

Monty,
I beleive you but am surprised. Outside the northwest, 2x Doug it hard to find these days let alone 1x. 1x is odd because Doug is typical for structural.

Scott,
I did answer you question on what to get. It's up a couple posts from the Pseudotsuga menziesii. Any of the 1x labled pine and then look at the quality which will affect the cost. FWIW, I did have some schooling in woods. Not forestry but it did give me a pretty good understanding of the woods out there. BTW, I did have to cheat and look up the scientific name for the Doug Fir!!

8122pbrainard wrote: 79TiqueRebuild wrote: The Lowes I shop at had Douglas fir in 1xs it was back by the hardwoods. I had to dig through them to get good ones though. Monty Monty, Are you sure it was Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir)? Was it labeled as such or just "Fir"? The SPF (spruce, pine, fir) "white woods" is very broad with 48-55 species of evergreen conifers. A common "fir" in the SPF group would be a "Balsam" Fir. Mo. is a pretty long distance from the Pacific Northwest!!!!

Pete,

I think The University of Alabama(National Champs and my alma mater, thank you) offered a doctoral program in wood and tree science.....did you graduate in that program?

Seriously dude, just tell me what to buy at Lowe's and I am there with check in hand. Headed to Memphis.

Thanks,

scott