1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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Looks great! Are you going to do the rudder port and the lift ring mount? I just got a hole saw kit so I checked my lift ring mount and the wood was wasted. I would at least check it for peace of mind. My rudder port was not that bad but it had water in it too.
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I just want to get all the wood cut and in place then I can just glass. I still have to: 1. grind all the bilge area. 2. inbed all the stringers on the passenger side 3. inbed the bulkhead for the front air lines and electrical wiring 4. Figure out what to do on that piece I posted earlier today and how to put one similar to it back in. 5. Coat the floor other than the bilge area with epoxy. 6. Glass, glass, glass........ |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Scott,
Looks like the woodworking is moving along and almost done. That was the part of the job you were worried about! It wasn't bad was it? Now you need to get going on the glassing. Summer's here! |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Here is my latest work:
Here is the back of the boat. The passenger side needs another long board next to the side wall, boards next to the exhaust hole, holes cut for drainage and everything set in it's base and fiberglassed. Other things need done as well but that will keep me busy next week: Here is my drainage idea. The triangle cuts will drain down towards the center of the boat and out a copper exit tube that will have a drain plug stuck in it: Here is the front of the boat. I had pretty good success cutting the piece in the floor that the air hoses and electrical tubes will go through. I just used the scribing method Pete told me about and traced the bottom of the boat on to the wood and cut it out with a jigsaw: What do ya'll think? |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Try some RV sewage line. I think even Wally sells that.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Got another question. Re: The three air intake lines underneath the scoop on the bow. I envision me using something to the equivalent of a radiator hose for the three lines. The problem is lowes, home depot or advance auto does not sell anything close in the 3" size I need. Anybody know where I can get some sold by the foot? |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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uk1979
Platinum Member Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1411 |
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My guess is it was use by the factory to lay a board across when they foamed to form the shape, or as a guide to cut the foam to make the hump/foot rest in the bow.
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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It looks like it is the joining piece that holds the kicker on top of the primary. Mine were just screwed to both and poorly glassed over.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Good afternoon everyone. Making some big progress and taking a break today to attend soccer and baseball games.
Can anyone describe to me the function of this piece of wood off of the primary stringer up under the dash and below the drivers feet? What is its purpose and do I have to put one like it back in? Will be taking some pictures today or tomorrow and asking for any comments. Thanks scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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FrankT
Senior Member Joined: September-07-2006 Status: Offline Points: 245 |
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If you have one set the only thing you can do is measure off of some know hull center points. You could run a string line between the rudder shaft center line and the back of the bow eye and the measure some offsets. You should have 21" to the inside faces (10.5" offset at the transom and dash) of the primary stringers. If you are more you can shim with some hardwood pieces or aluminum plate. If you have significantly less you may have a problem.
Good luck with it. FrankT |
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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I think he went with true 2" primaries so the measurments would be 21 inches inside, and 25 inches outside. BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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Your stringers should have been 24" outside to outside, or 21" inside to inside. I assume you measured this prior to removing the primaries, just to confirm. Your motor will have some side to side adjustments for precision alignment.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Oh, by the way, thanks to everyone for commenting on the questions I had above. They are very helpful.
scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Got a question.
I have one primary stringer in and will be putting the second one in this week. The engine is sitting in my garage away from the rebuild. I have made a jig before I took out both stringers so I could see how the distances were. My question is, how can I determine exactly where to put the second stringer so that it will be aligned with the prop shaft or basically have my engine exactly where it is supposed to be? I don't dare put the second stringer in until I am positive the engine mounts will sit in the center of the strigers and aligned with the shaft. If the engine was just sitting beside the boat on the engine hoist(which it's not), I could set it in the boat and trial fit it and I can still do this if it means getting it right, it's just a lot of work. Any advice? Thanks, scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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FrankT
Senior Member Joined: September-07-2006 Status: Offline Points: 245 |
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1. I plan on using 1/2" plywood. I decreased the floor batten spacing to 12" on center to maintain firmness. 2. Air hose, I assume vent hose, I intend to use standard vent hose material. I am not foaming so this is not as much as an issue for my rebuild. 3. Battery box from Bass-Pro. 4. Where the plywood will be epoxied, use stainless or dipped galvanized. Screw into the floor battens only, not into the stringers. 5. Secondary stringers are pre-glassed, set in heavy base with fillets and glassed. I intend to use 2-3" tapes offset an inch or so. 6. I do not intend to die or paint the work currently being done. Clear epoxy is best in my opinion as it will allow you to see a problem should one exist. FrankT |
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Okie Boarder
Gold Member Joined: August-31-2009 Location: OK Status: Offline Points: 779 |
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1. I'm using 5/8" ply for mine, but our boat design and the ribs / supports are a little different. I'd listen to the CC guys on this one. My original was 1/2" so I wanted to go thicker, but I have to be careful not to go too thick and prevent the top from setting down properly. I used A/C Doug Fir plywood, exterior grade.
4. I'm planning thickened epoxy on the tops of the stringers and cross braces, then lay the plywood on top. I'm probably just going to weight the wood and let it set, but I might screw it just long enough for it to set right. 5. I glassed my secondaries with 2 plys of 1708. 6. Most people seem to use Bilgekote. I guess grinding it smooth is a personal preference. I'm probably going to do some smoothing up front since I'm planning to put a ballast bag up there and I want to reduce wear on it so I don't poke a hole. |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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1. I am using 3/4 ply for the floor with a thin layer or two of glass on the bottom and a few more layers on top, and will be glassing it to the bilge and walls of the hull. I am doubling this up in front under the seats.
2.PVC pipe is the standard. 5200 sticks to it well and is less likely to fail than the dsryer hose stuff that came from the factory. 3. Walmart has your standard plastic battery box for under $10. 4. I think you bed the plywood to the stringers in thickened epxy like how you bed the stringers to the hull. Weight them down and let it cure. Some people use screws to keep it down tight until the epoxy is cured and then remove the screws and fill the holes. 5. I am going to be glassing in the secondaries just like the mains, but with a lighter layup. I am going to do 2 layers each of 2 and 4 inch tape and then wrap with 12 inch biaxial. 6. I think most people use bilgekote paint on the bilge. Mike posted some new pics on my 73 stringer thread yesterday that show a sexy bilge. You are moving fast! Wish I was as far along as you! |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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HELLO EVERYONE!!!! Did you think I was going away??? NOT! Just had other things to do but now I am back at it.
I will post some pictures soon but let me give you an update. I have the drivers side all but finished(the stringers that is). Everything looks good but I should be able to do the passenger side much cleaner as I know what I will be up against. I have to show everyone a picture of an idea my buddy John came up with to drain the secondary area. I think it should be patented but more than likely it has been done before. The fiberglassing went ok, it's just hard to get a smooth finish on a piece of doug fir that has not been planed smooth. I went out this morning and removed the passenger side primary stringer. I was SHOCKED!! It was totally rotten from the front engine mount back to the middle of the floor in front of the gas tank. It was still wet from last August and fell into a million pieces when I cut it out. I am glad I saved the drivers side stringer!! I guess I can just copy it and reverse the angle on the bottom. Going to be asking a bunch of questions and could use some help. Bought white pigment to put in the bilge area when I do that. If anyone wants to comment on the following items, please do as I can use the advise: 1. The plywood floor 2. What type of air hose for the three front lines under the scoop. 3. Where can I get a new battery box? 4. What type of hardware do I put the floor down with? 5. Do I have to fiberglass the secondary stringers or just set them in a heavy base? 6. When I do the bilge area, do I just grind it smooth and epoxy it over adding the white pigment I bought or what? Let's hear it from you. Hope you are all well. Hoping to get the project done in April and then have three weeks to put the carpet and everything back together. scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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You are correct. Fillets, then glass. That thick stuff does not want to bend at times.
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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This confuses me. You want to do your fillets first, before the glass. It makes it far easier to lay the glass if you have a nice rounded transition to lay it over. |
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Pete,
My response to chris above is really addressed to you as well. I am off each week from friday morning until monday night so I should be able to get a lot done this weekend. I plan on sanding the secondaries, clean with denatured alchohol, seal seal with epoxy and set in their base. Then I will glass them in. Will finish the primary as stated to Chris. I worked very hard to get everything level and the plywood should lay perfectly flat when set across the stringer headed to the gunnell. I may have time monday to start removing the passenger side stringer but I am not attempting that until everything is complete on the drivers side. The passenger side should be much less time consuming due to basically repeating what I have done to date. Keep the comments coming pal scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Let me apologize for not being more clear. The only thing I have done concerning the primary stringers is set them in their epoxy base. I have only put glass on the rear two or three feet of the beam at this time. I still have to finish the first glass application of glass and then come back with fillets and cover the whole beam. I ground off the remaining gelcoat on the bilge side of the primary where the glass will go from the driveshaft forward as you all suggested. I did accidently leave a couple of very small patches of gelcoat inderneath the first glass application but you can see from the pictures that even they were sanded. I will remove all remaining gelcoat before applying further glass. There was no gelcoat where the foam and secondary stringers were so I just ground that area for adhesion and a coating of epoxy. I guess I was just asking if I had left off any major steps. My plans are no foam, plywood floor and carpet. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Scott,
I'll back up Tim here that you need to slow down, read some other threads thoroughly as well as this one. Comments like Chris's above have been made but you seem to miss them at times. |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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Main problem I see is the bilge coat under the cloth and the lack of bare fiberglass the length of the stringer, your never going to get the inside radius and subsequent cloth that needs to go down over it and to the stringer to bond right thus weaking the stringer on the inside/middle of the boat and causing a delamination issue later on down the road.
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Okie Boarder
Gold Member Joined: August-31-2009 Location: OK Status: Offline Points: 779 |
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Scott,
Some things I see that are different is you didn't grind as much of the boat as I did. I also notice your stringers seem smaller and less complicated. As Frank said, fillets. I did fillets on mine. I don't see any other differences off hand. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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Have you read Keeganino's thread? There is some Skier-specific info in there that you should see. The secondary stringer shape in regards to the exhaust pockets comes to mind. He started at the same place you did, and has been asking a lot of questions- so that would be a great resource for you.
Have you read any of the other stringer repair threads yet? Theres a ton of info that has been shared and documented on this site over the past few years. It would be nearly impossible to recreate every single discussion that we've had and post it in this thread. If you have the feeling that you may have missed something, then you may be right- like I suggested in the beginning, slow down and do a little bit of research before proceeding down the wrong path! Beyond that, keep posting lots of pictures. If someone sees something wrong, they'll say so. Asking specific questions will get you specific answers. |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Pete,
I sent this same message to andy(okieboarder). Why do I think I am leaving something off or missing something? I expect to have both primaries and secondaries in place within two weeks leaving only the floor and carper and the engine which all seems easy compared to what I have been doing. If you look at what I am doing, is it the right thing to do? Have spent $1050 so far and I can expect about another $1000. scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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FrankT
Senior Member Joined: September-07-2006 Status: Offline Points: 245 |
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Scott, I would recommend that you create an epoxy fillet at the bottom of the stringer before you glass. A good rule of thumb is 1/2" radius. Some take a thin piece of wood or metal and cut the profile on the end but I have found a plastic spoon works well. This radius will allow the tape to wet out nicely but more importantly it is structural. The strength of this joint is based upon the tensile strength of the epoxy (psi) and the thickness of material at this joint. FrankT |
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FrankT
Senior Member Joined: September-07-2006 Status: Offline Points: 245 |
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I am not certain what your plan is - foam or no foam. I am not foaming as I am a firm believer that to preserve wood you need to let it dry. To accomplish this my removable panel behind the engine goes the full width of the boat not just the width of the primary stringers and I intend to remove it every winter to allow the sub-floor materials to dry out. The plan on the rebuild is not to try to keep the water out but to seal up the wood well and allow for any water to make it to the bilge of the boat. To accomplish this I cut drainage slots on the bottom side of the stringer. You can see them on this picture at the water pickups and close to the ski pylon. My slots are only about an inch in height. The length is not as critical but my rear is long enough to miss the thickened area around the water pick ups and allow for an easier tape job. Water in the bilge isn't a big problem but wood and epoxy constantly exposed to it is. Seal your wood up well to mitigate water intrusion. Please realize that epoxy itself will absorb water. Most are weight tests of a submerged piece before and after. Although typically less than 1/10th of a percent in a 24 hour period you will have even less if the water can get out. FrankT |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5772 |
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Rosewood Brass sliding bevel square |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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