1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

Pete,

Thanks, you are correct again. I built this hunting boat I was talking about in 2005 and I think you could drop it off the roof of my house and it would not scratch it so I figured it would definitely work for a boat I use 12-15 hours per year but you guys have a proven track record so thats good enough for me. It will also work out well monday when I go to Sweetwater and can just give him all the business(Doug Fir, plywood, 1x's and anything else).

Got my computer back. Going outside to take some pictures. Will send them in a little while. Anyone that wants to comment on them plese do. I have been grinding one side of the boat for about three hours today. Trying to get everything smooth as possible but I know it does not have to be perfect especially the sides since I am probably going with the plywood and not the foam. Just trying to get all the old foam, old wood and gelcoat out of the boat.

Thanks again. Keep me motivated and give any and all advise you can. I plan on sitting in fron of the fire tonight and reading threads. Don't partake in alchohol so a nice diet coke will do.

scott


scott

Looks like you are moving right along at a great pace.

Get all of those cables out of the way. It will save you a lot of trouble.

Get all of the hardware out- the prop and shaft, rudder, exhaust ports. The The prop shaft seal will need to be replaced so you might as well get it out of your way while you are working. My seal basically fell apart after I removed the shaft so I am really glad I did not overlook it.

There is wood under the glass at the exhaust ports and rudder mount that need to be removed as well, and don't forget the wood under the lift ring on the transom and under the bilge pump. There is no wood under the pylon mount so leave it alone unless it is loose.

Pete is right about the plywood.

Looks like you did a nice clean job removing your stringer. I wish mine came out that nice. Good work, keep it up!

Keegan,

Where do you buy the replacement prop shaft seal? My contact in Florida at Southeast Mastercraft could get me one I am sure. I was turning that shaft after I took the engine out the other day and it was making a sound like it was dry or needed lubricated.

You have been very helpful. Contact me again anytime as I need all the advise I can get.

scott

This is what you need for the log.

I have been advised that the $200 dripless systems are not worth the extra $. Pete is right about the noise. It is nothing to worry about. The Cutlass bearing is like a hard rubber material and needs to be wet to spin quietly.

Skidim.com has most of what you need. I have not bought anything from them yet, but they have been suggested to me and others many times by the members of this site.

The sun is finally out today so I am going to level and block up my boat. My CPES is supposed to be here tomorrow and I will be ordering my glass supplies by Wednesday.

Keegan,

Nevermind, I saw the log on the skidim website. Sorry.

What do you suggest of the three air intake hoses and the wiring enclosure up under the dash? If you know where the thread is as well I could read about it. Saved the Skidim website under favorites and will use them I am sure.

Scott,
The CPES is different than the resin you just got. Did you see the link Mike provided to the explanation on CPES and what it does?

The picture Keegan posted is simply the rubber hose connection between the shaft log and the shaft packing gland. Although it does keep the water out, it's not the actual seal. The sealing means is a rope type packing material inside the packing gland. It's the big nut and housing right where the shaft first enters the bilge.

Keeganino wrote: Looks like you are moving right along at a great pace. Get all of those cables out of the way. It will save you a lot of trouble. Get all of the hardware out- the prop and shaft, rudder, exhaust ports. The The prop shaft seal will need to be replaced so you might as well get it out of your way while you are working. My seal basically fell apart after I removed the shaft so I am really glad I did not overlook it. There is wood under the glass at the exhaust ports and rudder mount that need to be removed as well, and don't forget the wood under the lift ring on the transom and under the bilge pump. There is no wood under the pylon mount so leave it alone unless it is loose. Pete is right about the plywood. Looks like you did a nice clean job removing your stringer. I wish mine came out that nice. Good work, keep it up!

Is it mandatory to take the exhaust port wood and rudder wood out? I have to say it looks like its in perfect condiction but I could and probably am wrong. The bilge pump piece would be no problem if that too has to come out.

I have been up and down the drivers side of the boat grinding and grinding and everything is almost flush. When do I know when enough is enough? I ground the lip on the side wall almost flush as well.

comments?

Thanks,

scott

This is not a very good picture but everything you see is virtually level.


Here is the drivers side exhaust port. I plan on cleaning and grinding around it some more.


Rudder assembly area


The passenger side of my boat. I have the original decal which is not the one shown.

Definitely remove the exhaust ports. The plywood under the glass is exposed once you pull out the metal exhaust ports and it will be wet. Same with the rudder mount. Nothing but plywood with holes drilled through it under that glass. Water is in there.

CPES is a crucial prophylactic. I just paid $190 for 2 gallons. Not real happy with that but it is guaranteed to add years, if not decades to the life of your boat. Every single drill hole for your hardware should be pilot drilled, then filled with CPES and then 5200 applied at the time the screw is set. These details are the difference between the duct tape jobs that came out of the factory and a world class rebuild.

Scott,

You're looking good. Wipe the boat down and let everyone see how deep you grinded. I'd agree on what these guys are saying about the exhaust ports, etc.

If you look at my thread, I just found some wet wood up front on mine I wasn't expecting. The wood in the back of mine seems solid and dry so I'm not messing with it.

I planed mine down to 1.5". However, I left my channels in the hull.

Need advise:

I took the exhaust flange out of the transom and looked at the wood. I can't even get any wood to come off using a screwdriver or digging tool. The wood seems solid. Can I just paint a thin coating of epoxy on it and reinstall it instead of cutting it out? Don't know the condiction of the rudder base but it looks clean as well.

Please let me know something asap. Working on the boat now.'

scott

I just took the four screws off the flange from the outside and tapped the whole thing out with a hammer. No damage to the wood anywhere around the diameter of the hole. I could epoxy the wood and reinstall the flange with some silicon.

Let me just post a picture of the hole and the stringer and that would be better than writing everything. Thanks for the speedy response.

scott

Do NOT use silicon. If in fact the wood is in really good shape, I think it is ok to get after the rest of the project. I do NOT think this is the right way to do it, but you guys that are in the beginning phases of your stringer jobs simply are not going to have boats this year if you do not get going quickly. I would prefer you replaced it.
Use 3m 5200 Marine Sealant, and glass around the back side of it like it was. You were probably taking water in there if it just came free after removing the flange. Not replacing the wood at this time is just my opinion and I expect to be flamed a bit for it. But you do want a boat to use pretty soon.

Those look surprisingly good.