Plan B: Rust Mitigation on Ram-Lin

I am coming in late on this thread. I redid my trailer last year. It wasnt as bad as yours. The wet carpet is what is killing the trailer. I went back with Al on mine. I cleaned up the rust just as you did, and used a Rustoleum paint. Several coats using a brush. Not as pretty as a spray can. I kept the carpet on the inside of the fenders as the boat can hit these.

I used a trailer light rubber grommet where the guide pole goes thru the Al.

Don't forget you have to get a 5 x 10 sheet of metal.
Wherever you get the metal from they'll cut it.
Mine was $175 for the aluminum diamond plate 5' x 10'- and they cut it with a plasma cutter. They did a bad job, I complained and he took $25 off. I then put the black trim loc on the edges.

I had a friend cut them for me. Pretty tedious to get it right. Mine looks good, not perfect. The edge is sanded and rounded. I like Marty's idea of the Trim Loc.

One feature that I think helps kill these trailers are/is the staples on the underside of the bunks holding the carpet on. Imagine a 2500lb boat bouncing around on the bunks for 10 years, sandwiching the bunk underside and staple heads directly into the painted frame. Over time, the staples probably wear away the paint and presto- the carpet is right there to hold in the moisture and start the conversion to Fe2o3 on the frame rails. That's why the outer edge of the frame was in worse shape than the inner frame, I'd bet. However, I think that not hiding those staples under the bunks and cutting the carpet rather than wrapping it under on the outside of the bunks will look terrible. Thoughts/solutions?

I did these running boards and fenders with the "Skill" saw and a hand break. (and a TIG) No need for edge trim because all the edges are turned down. Plus, you'll always be catching it with feet/shoes pulling it off! Edge trim also doesn't like to go over the "diamonds". If you get it sized for the diamonds then it's too loose in between. If sized for the base thickness then it wants to come off at the diamonds.

Marty,
You really want me to get going on the silicone subject??? Since you've missed why I dislike the stuff, it doesn't stick!! At least go with a polyurethane like 5200 or 4200. It's adhesion is by far superior.

How time flies when you are "in the zone" on a project. I started on the bunk re-carpeting at about 9PM. When I finished I walked back in the house and it was 12:30AM. Very surprising/shocking, especially when my alarm went off at 5:20 AM.

Bunks look outstanding. Went with the factory staple-under-then-flap-over technique. I even added the strip of "padding" carpet atop the bunks before flapping the main carpet over, giving the bunks that rounded factory look.

Here is how strong POR-15 is: I wanted to use a little bit to dip each screw in so that the holes would be that much less prone to future rust. The lid of the POR-15 was SO FUSED to the can that the inner lip of the can actually completely pulled inside out and deformed before the top popped off. Incredible. Basically, the container must be destroyed to re-open the can!

Thanks to Marty and others for the valuable information in this thread, I'm now thinking I'm ready to tackle my own trailer restoration.

I have a 1993 single axle that's in decent shape and looks identical to MartyMabe's with very little rust. I'm thinking it's a Ramlin? I'll try and post some pictures.

I do however have some preliminary questions:

Rust - very minor on the "tabs" that the wood side steps bolt to and some appears to be existent under the bunks but I have not removed these yet. I'm thinking I can probably brush off with a wire brush or power tool. How are the bunk boards attached to the frame?

Fenders - Mine appear to be bolted on via square "tabs" on the front and back side of the wheel. Marty - The fenders you showed on ebay don't seem to have these. How did you connect your new fenders?

Actuator - It would appear that replacing my actuator would be fairly straight forward however I'm wondering about the brakes. Once you install the replacement and connnect the brake line, is there a process for bleeding the brakes?

Turnbuckle - My trailer did not have one but rather, the previous owner had attached a chain. If the nose of the boat isn't snug into the bow stop, it will porpoise somewhat over bumps which makes me nervous. I've heard negative things about the original turnbuckles. Comments?

Thanks for your help guys.

Doug Miracle

MartyMabe wrote: Because of the limited space on this site to post pics, e-mail me and I'll be happy to send you all the pics you want to look at before you get started!

hey Marty what about using photobucket?

For whatever it's worth, I contacted Ramlin to get prices from them on 1993 trailer parts. Was referred to Orlando CC. Here's the pricing:

Fenders (painted black, galvanized, or raw steel)- $100 each
Turnbuckle - $64
Actuator - $342 (Whoa!!)
Bunk Carpet - $26 per roll, 12,14,16 inch widths/19 - 23 feet lengths
LED light replacements - $44 light bar, $15 side lights, $26 tail lights

They also sent me the attached measurement template for the fenders...

dmiracle wrote: Marty - sent you a pm with my e-mail address. Thanks for the offer of pictures.

Doug,

try e-mail address

mtmabe@northstate.net

pm seems to not work at times

actuator

Oh! I forgot to mention. Didn't know the extent on my brakes,wheel cylinders so I began bidding on the pair of bolt-on backing plates,wheel cylinders, brake shoes, etc, everything included, just bolt in on,, and I won it! $25 FREE SHIPPING from Wisconsin

No one else bid on it, so I've got it for future use I guess!

BTW....

I know I have a lashing coming from Pete regarding the clips. I'm ready to take it like a man but hey......they're original, I get points for that don't I?

Can anyone tell me what size brake/backing plates to purchase for the 1993 Trailer?

Thanks.

brakes
I'll check Saturday. I think it's the 12". You can measure your drum. Inside diameter and that will give you the needed info.

Still check e-bay!!