86 SN rebuild

we are still plugging along. I have decided that I hate grinding and I hate itching. I think they go together.

Anyway, we have the stringers pretty much done, except the corners and curved areas need a little more attention. I did drop it back on the trailer yesterday, which seems like a huge accomplishment. Nice to see it back where it belongs. I even moved it into the barn, so I don't have to deal with the coming weather. I'll start to tackle the battery box area within the next week or two.

Jeff

Here are a couple of pictures of where we are at with the restore.







Jeff

Since it drives me nuts to be on the second page, I'll give everyone a quick update. All four stringers have the 2/2, 4/4, 8/8 and 1st layer of biax. I'm happy with how everything is looking so far. Hopefully we can get all of the ribs, drain holes and blocking done this weekend. Once that get's completed, we will get working on the battery box area.

Jeff

Jeff,
I did my drain's exactly like Tim showed in his diagram.

I did do it before I installed the stringer, but I put the holes where CC put them. After I installed them I noticed they weren't in the best place(lowest point) So I filled them and re-drilled new one's. So I ended up doing them in place after all. (PITA but done)

PS the more cuts the easier it is to get them to lay flat.

Hi,
I am working on a 86 as well and have enjoyed your thread, On the drains. Do you guys think it needs the fiberglass or will a good coat of epoxy do the same thing?
Just wondering . I put in drains for under the floor and they are epoxy coated and am planning to use 5200 and pvc with a screw cap so I can drain if ever needed or check for water.

I havent tested this method myself, but it seems to make sense. I plan to use it on the next wood stringer build that I do.   We were comfortable enough with coating the coosa with resin that we didn't feel glassing the drains was necessary. Narrow strips works too- just overlap the edges. I think if you get one good layer of glass down everywhere, thats sufficient.

Cool idea on the baloon, Pete!

Thanks TRBenj, I was thinking of doing it exactly like you posted. But I'm sure it will be a pain. Yes, I should of done it prior to bedding the stringer. I actually thought about it, but forgot to do it. (by the way, I really appreciate the time you spend on drawing it out. It makes it much easier to understand what you are saying)

Is this how you did yours? I'm thinking two layers, maybe even narrow strips so that it's easier to do.

As far as PVC, I think it would be more difficult at this point, but I appreciate the input.

Thanks for the replies,

Jeff

Ranger wrote: As we are moving along, I'm wondering what others are doing with the drain holes in the stringers. My intentions are to put a layer or 2 of cloth in them. But what are others doing? I'm sure a layer of cloth is going to be a challenge, but I don't want any uncovered wood. What do you think? Jeff

Could PVC or another bondable type pipe be halved and then epoxied inside the exposed wood stringer surface?

Well, we are still moving along. The starboard main and secondary are finished with the exception of the biax top cap. The more we do, the better we get at the layups. I sure like using the biax, it really lay's down nice.

I'm still having a tough time doing the entire layup at once, however. Not that there isn't enough time, my back just won't last that long. After a couple of hours working on my knees, I have to get up and out of the boat for a while.

I'll try to take a few pictures and get them posted within the next day or two.

Jeff

I went through 1-1/2 of the 5qt containers of milled and a 10lb bag of the 1/4 chopped strand.
Along with the cabosil I added the milled fiber to the resin a lot of times for the added strength. I could have gotten away with using less of the 1/4" chopped but I used the milled all the time.
I didn't use the micro-ballons.

79SNbrady wrote: im about to order my fiber glass stuff for my boat but how much mill fiber and phenolic microballons should i order? 5qts of both seems a little to much

The microballons are for fairing. I only used cabosil which does not sand easily, but i did not really have to do any fairing.

You're just the one I needed to hear from.

Thanks, After I get the stringers glassed, I'll drop it to the trailer.

Jeff

We are still moving along, just a lot slower than I would of expected. I ground out the air bubbles, reglassed the area and then laminated the first layer of biax. I also have the other side of the stringer almost finished. Since I have slowed down the process, I'm not getting any air into the layup. I'll post some pictures when I have something interesting to show.

Also, I know I asked this before, but when do you guys suggest think it would be alright to set the hull back on the trailer. After the stringers are glassed, but before the floor? or would you wait until the entire floor is done.

I could get a lot more done if I could move it in and out of the garage. My instincts tell me to wait until the floor is in, but I'm hoping that someone can convince me that after the stringers are glassed, the hull will be strong enough.

Thanks for the help.

Jeff

8122pbrainard wrote: In my case as well as most, it's really a "wake up call".

What, that fender bender you had a few years ago wasnt enough of a wake up call, Pete?

Your're right, we got lucky. Real lucky!

Jeff