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86 SN rebuild

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2010 at 6:43pm
1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2010 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

Oak is heavy and not very rot resistant.

Keegan,
You must be thinking of the Red Oaks. White Oak is very rot resistant and the reason it's been used since day one by high end wood boat builders.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt R. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2010 at 1:09am
Thank you Pete. I am looking for Douglas Fir in 2x12's. But can get white oak if that's an option I can use...if I can not get Douglas fir. A good friend of mine rebuilds mahogany crist crafts but he is clueless on these boats that are wrapped in glass. He suggested white oak but actually has no idea that's why I threw that out. Thanks again. But am still working on douglas fir.
Matt R.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2010 at 9:25am
Matt,
Why the 2x12's? Are you doing something that needs them to be that wide?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2010 at 11:36am
Need some up to date photos !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2010 at 1:06pm
I would love to post updated photo's, but life kind of got in the way. First, my truck died, so that ate up a weekend. The next weekend, mother nature thought we needed rain, then the doctor said I needed to have both knees operated on. So three weekends were lost.

I thought I could get back to it fairly quickly, but the recovery is longer than I was hoping for. I can stand and walk a little, but not enough for me to crawl into a boat. So, again, I'm waiting.

But, rest assured, as soon as my body will allow me to get over the rail, I'll be back to it. I have a spring deadline.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt R. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2010 at 2:23pm
Pete-thought that 2x12's would give me more room for error. Can look for 2x10's. thanks...may start my own forum so I'm not using Jeff's.
Matt R.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2010 at 2:04pm
Update:
It appears that the Doctor doesn't understand what I'm doing According to him, I can't golf, hunt, replace stringers, play baseball or anything else that I care about until February 1. He did say that I can fish, as long as I don't have a lot of twisting movement. Although, I know he is right and it's for the best, it will kill me to wait that long.

That being said, I have started recruiting some friends who indicated that they would be willing to help. If all goes well, I should be able to stay outside the boat and have a friend inside the hull. I'm very particular, so I'm not sure how it will go, but my friends have all indicated that they would like the opportunity to learn how to do this. So, it will be slow, but I'm hopeful that I can still show some progress.

So, if I have long periods between posts, be confident, my butt is in a easy chair watching a football game.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2010 at 2:33pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Sweetwater Lumber & Land; you want the Austell location...new website


Great Place and super nice employees. That's where I got mine. 8 hours roundtrip from North Alabama.
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2010 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by Ranger Ranger wrote:

Update:
It appears that the Doctor doesn't understand what I'm doing According to him, I can't golf, hunt, replace stringers, play baseball or anything else that I care about until February 1. He did say that I can fish, as long as I don't have a lot of twisting movement. Although, I know he is right and it's for the best, it will kill me to wait that long.

That being said, I have started recruiting some friends who indicated that they would be willing to help. If all goes well, I should be able to stay outside the boat and have a friend inside the hull. I'm very particular, so I'm not sure how it will go, but my friends have all indicated that they would like the opportunity to learn how to do this. So, it will be slow, but I'm hopeful that I can still show some progress.

So, if I have long periods between posts, be confident, my butt is in a easy chair watching a football game.

Jeff


Boy, you have better friends than me. If my neighbor was rebuilding his boat and knowing what I know as far as what is involved, I would stay hidden or tell hime I have health issues that would prevent me from helping him
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-03-2010 at 3:26pm
Well, I would have to agree. that's why I think I am planning on one friend per stringer. Once they do one, I don't think they will ever come back!

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2010 at 9:16pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Matt R. Matt R. wrote:

I have a question for Pete or whoever. Could a person use Cyphrees for stringers? Just a question.

I would not use Cyprus for glassed in stringers. It's a oily wood and you would have problems with the resin bonding.

Why, do you have a bunch of it? Hard time finding Doug Fir?



Wouldn't an LVL also have this issue? They are impregnated with something "waxy".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2010 at 10:01pm
The place I bought my Douglas Fir from in Georgia was about a four hour drive from my house. Very nice business and super employees I may say. He offered me an alternative to picking up the wood which would be to ship is via a truck line. 12'-14' items get shipped all the time via the trucking industry so I know it can be done. Just band and wrap them and off they go. The problem is the cost of shipping tacked on to the price of the wood. I would think damage in transit would not be a problem, I mean how can you destroy a 14' piece of Fir? Scatches would not matter. My doug fir was beautiful and they had tons of it in two different grades depending on how deep your pocket is
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-17-2010 at 8:54am
Originally posted by YooperSully YooperSully wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Matt R. Matt R. wrote:

I have a question for Pete or whoever. Could a person use Cyphrees for stringers? Just a question.

I would not use Cyprus for glassed in stringers. It's a oily wood and you would have problems with the resin bonding.

Why, do you have a bunch of it? Hard time finding Doug Fir?



Wouldn't an LVL also have this issue? They are impregnated with something "waxy".

Roger,
They aren't "impregnated". There is a surface coating for rain protection since we all know carpenters can't get under roof in a timely manner! You belt sand the surface off along with the coating or simply order it without the optional "weathershed? coating. Roger, you need to find a decent lumber yard that knows WTF they are talking about!! Hopefully you aren't shopping at Menards!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-17-2010 at 11:20am
Matt R. try L.L. Johnson, they are in Michigan but will ship down to their South Bend, Ind store. Still a good drive for you but worth a shot. I would be amazed if they don't have what you need. Ask for Chris.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt R. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-17-2010 at 9:41pm
I have talked to L. L. Johnson's and they are only an hour & a half away but they tell me they only have 2x6's 14 fts and if I'm measuring right I need at least a 2x8. I was able to find 1x10's brought into a local lumberyard and my question is can I take the 1x10's that I am able to get and epoxy the 2 together to get the 2x? thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-01-2011 at 12:28pm
After truck issues, knee issues, holiday issues and weather issues, we are finally back at it. Life really does get in the way.

We finished the starboard main yesterday and will be bedding it in later today. If all goes well, I should be posting some pictures within a day or two. If our weather holds, I will either pull the port main or finish up the smaller details on the starboard side next weekend.

Full Steam ahead!...... Hopefully

Hope everyone had a great Christmas Holiday.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-02-2011 at 12:20pm
Hey Jeff-

I have my stringer cut and cpes-ed. I have about 4 days of drying for the cpes and plan to get after bedding the main stringers. My question is:

What is the max gap between the hull floor and stringers? (Where they meet, that is.) I know that this will be covered by a fillet, but I am just wondering how perfectionist I need to be on the angle.

Thanks, y'all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-02-2011 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by WOFTAM WOFTAM wrote:

Hey Jeff-
My question is:

What is the max gap between the hull floor and stringers? (Where they meet, that is.) I know that this will be covered by a fillet, but I am just wondering how perfectionist I need to be on the angle.

Thanks, y'all.


The closer the better but I had a massive gap on my mains at the transom and was able to fix it by building up some glass on the hull and then a big glob of thickened epoxy to bed it. Then the fillets make it all nice and pretty. The smaller the gaps the less work it will be and the less epoxy you will have to use but its pretty forgiving.

"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2011 at 1:24pm
Yes, Keegan is right, the closer and tighter you scribe in the stringers, the better. If you take your time, you can get it fairly tight to the hull. I set the stringer in place, leveled it like I wanted, made sure it was plumb and then took the largest gap as the distance to scribe the stringer. Once I had it rough cut, I made small adjustments as needed.

I have only scribed in two, but they came out nice. I found that a power plan helped get the stringer close, then I used a portable belt sander and a small grinder to finish it up.

Since this weekend's weather didn't allow me to bed the stringer like I had hoped, I decided to build the port main. I haven't cut the port main out of the boat, so I built a mirror of the starboard side and left it an 1/8 inch larger so that I can trim it in.

I'm hoping that the port side is somewhat similar. If not, I have some firewood

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2011 at 10:49pm
Thanks for the word. I have them scribed and will be re-CPESing where I used the planer. I hope to bed with West six-10 soon.

Pics will follow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2011 at 3:34pm
We are still waiting for warmer weather to bed the main. I talked to US composites today and learned that the medium hardener requires temperatures above 55 degrees for 2 hours. We have been fighting with a small repair that we’ve done three times. With evening temperatures in the middle 30's and daytime highs in the middle 60's, we can't get the resin to cure properly. It only gets to middle 60's for a couple of hours which is not enough time for the part and resin to warm. I used heat lamps to warm the part, but failed to warm the resin. Sounds simple enough, but maybe not.

Keep your fingers crossed, it is supposed to get in the middle 70's this weekend. So we might be able to get something done.

You learn something everyday!

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2011 at 3:52pm
Jeff I was having similar issues keeping the resin at a good workable temp. When I started in the winter cure times were very long(which makes it stronger) and in the summer they were super short as temps hit the mid 90's. I found that keeping the resin and hardener in my house at room temp helped even out the cure time. At least it starts in the proper temp range.

Mid 70's this weekend huh. I am jealous. The kids have been home all week from school due to snow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2011 at 5:19pm
Keegan, which hardener did you use when the temperature was cooler. I was thinking of ordering some fast hardener, which will work with the cooler temps, but US Composites suggested that I just wait until the weather cooperates.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2011 at 7:24pm
I used the medium hardener and would add a little extra if it was real cold and used less when it was really hot. I never consulted USC about it though to see if that was a good idea. Worked for me though and I had some hardener left over in the end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-15-2011 at 8:59pm
We finally have the starboard main bedded. It's sunny and 80 degrees outside. Feels good to get something done. I'll try to post some picks before Monday.

Hopefully, the weather will cooperate. I would really like to make some progress.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2011 at 2:13am
We finally completed the starboard main. All of the small pieces and blocks are also cut and fit. I won't bed them until later, but all of the pieces are finished. Here are a couple of pictures.





I am hoping to get the port main and secondary pulled this next weekend.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2011 at 2:50am
Looks good !my boat looks just like yours with wiring hanging by wheel. keep pics coming . Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2011 at 2:16pm
Nice progress! Now your ready for the fun part! One suggestion I have is to cover up your gunwales with plastic and tape it down really good. No matter how careful you are it is virtually impossible to keep resin from getting on them. I could have avoided a few extra hours wet sanding to remove all of the smudges on mine after I was done.

Oh yeah and dont wear anything you want to ever wear again outside the shop. I ruined a ton of clothes and a few pairs of shoes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2011 at 10:08pm
I might also wax the deck real good. Maybe even leave it on there so that if resin gets on there it cant soak in and make a good bond.
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