86 SN rebuild

Both the plastic and a work area in/near the boat so youre not constantly in and out are great ideas.



Getting all the glass on each stringer in one shot is definitely recommended. If you can do all your cutting beforehand, its very doable. The only think that would make sense to wait on is the cap- that part is a PITA so having all the side glass set up already is to your advantage.

Not exactly. I would do all the glass that bonds the stringer to the hull in one shot if you can (shown below in red). That includes all mat, cloth, biax, etc. This way you get a chemical bond between the layers, not just a mechanical one. Once that dries, cap the top of the stringer (shown in blue).



Have you decided on a glass layup for the stringers yet? I would recommend 2/2/4/4/8/8/biax, then capped in biax for the mains.

The biax is nice because it adds strength in directions the cloth tape does not have much (45 degree from the cloth layer, plus the omnidirectional strength of the mat layer), and it also builds up quite a bit of thickness (and soaks up quite a bit of resin). I used one layer of 12" biax tape over the last layer of 8" cloth (stringer to hull) as well as capped the tops of the mains with it.

TRBenj wrote:    I used one layer of 12" biax tape over the last layer of 8" cloth (stringer to hull) as well as capped the tops of the mains with it.

Me too. I also double capped from the pylon to the tranny mounts too just for fun.

If it is warm enough and your resin is setting up fast you can do a stringer all in one day.

Update: We are still moving along. The hull is ground and ready for the port main and secondary. The main is virtually finished and I will try to get the secondary scribed in later today.

Something to note is when I puller the rudder log piece, there was a nice puddle of water under it. It looked solid and I even considered leaving it. Glad I didn't. Lot's of dry glass in this area as well.

I'll post pictures as soon as I have something interesting to show.

I sure went through my share of sanding disk's. I even went through a couple of backing plate's. But it sure feels good to have the grinding done. On the stringer portion anyway.


Jeff

Update:
We're still motoring along. The port main is bedded and the port secondary is almost finished. Everything is running alone pretty smooth. We're almost to the point the we can start glassing in the stringers.

Jeff

Another bridge crossed. Looking good. I was going to do a 2 battery box but in the end there was not room in the Skier. You may be able to get away with it in the SN since its bigger. After listening to a lot of the guys on here I was beginning to question needing the second battery anyway. Unless you are going to beach it and pump tunes all day through a massive stereo system...

Jeff,
I've got to ask why the 2 batteries? You may want to rethink the issue.

BTW, as a reference, CQ has got a pretty decent sound system in his boat and only has one battery!! You haven't been spending too much time over on PN have you?

Here is the only picture I found showing the relative location..

Pbrain,

I’ll go ahead and admit it. I had to read your post 10 times before I figured out what PN was. But I still can’t figure out CQ.

And no, I haven’t been at PN.

Jeff

Joe's battery box looks to be located in the same spot as the "aft" of the 2 batt boxes his boat originally came with. It still requires the "cantelevered" observer seat that I mentioned above. Here's a shot of an original early 80's set up:



I wasnt comfortable with 12" of the seat overhanging the battery box, nor did I want to be stepping on the lid every time I got in the drivers seat... but a bunch of boats came from the factory that way so its certainly a viable option.

I suppose theres no reason you technically need a box vs. a tray if youre going to be going with a fully draining, foamless design. I chose to go essentially foamless and drain all of the underfloor cavities together- but not to the bilge. I also sealed my battery box off. I figure that any path for the water to escape is also an intrusion point (and the low lying batt boxes on my other boats seem to always collect water) and I didnt want ANY water below the floor, if I could help it. I did provide means to get the water back out though, should it find its way in somehow... I just wasnt going to invite it in. Thats about the only reason I can think of against going with the tray idea. One benefit is that you'd end up with a lot more room with the same sized opening, as the factory battery box tapers quite a bit.

If you do decide not to reuse the battery box in your rebuild and you'd be willing to part with it, Id be interested in it for one of my other boats- so drop me a line if you decide to sell it.

May be of help when thinking which way to go.

Jeff both are set in foam but the back battery box is only 1/8 off the hull, you can see my boxes start around the line of the dash so the front box is not that big, its just to stow away things but it will take beer too, just has a hinged lid on it.
I'm not a 2001 guy, Joe your man there , but would think you need to check on how much the bow slopes I think its more than a Mk 2 SN and the height of the deck, you may have more or less room ? to do it as Tim said may need to bring the boxes back towards the pylon.

I don't think it does anything at all. It's a box of foam. I'm going to run the same air duct's, I'm just not going to add the foam block.

I'm intending on routing the duct's as close to the starbord side as I can. I might try to build my own out of fiberglass like UK1979 did. I really don't want to spend the extra time, but I want it to be a clean install. So, if I can't find anything suitable, I'll try to build it.

Jeff

8122pbrainard wrote: BTW, as a reference, CQ has got a pretty decent sound system in his boat

By who's standards Pete? Yours or a closet Tuber?