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1990 Dash Wiring |
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KENO 
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10650 |
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 Topic: 1990 Dash WiringPosted: July-01-2021 at 4:03pm |
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I'd think I'd put the diode and the capacitor after the 87 terminal in that order to feed the radio ( relay to diode to capacitor to radio)
The capacitor should keep the power there for a few seconds, keeping the radio powered while the boat starts. If you had an excessive crank time, the radio would probably lose power. PS Here's where you throw in one of those many sayings about "it's better to have tried and failed.................................. It's even better to try and succeed though, Good luck
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drekeith
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Joined: July-07-2015 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 2:25pm |
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Sound logical. I have been thinking through it and I am no electrical guru, but I wonder if the switch (86) side also cuts out when starting the motor and would cause the relay “switch” to trip? I guess there is only one way to know and if it does not work then another wire splice isn't going to be the end of the world.
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KD
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KENO
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:40pm |
It seems like it would do it's job wired between the relay output terminal(87 terminal) and the radio.
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KENO
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:35pm |
I think a vibrating magnetic transmogrification unit would be far superior to a flux capacitor in this particular situation. |
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drekeith
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:45am |
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That is a great idea! In my case I have installed a relay between the switch and radio where the relay is powered direct to the power block. In this case, where would the small 16v capacitor need to go?
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KD
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flyweed
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Joined: July-11-2016 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 539 |
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:04am |
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I am wondering if installing a flux capcitor might help in this situation??
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'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
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KENO
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Posted: July-01-2021 at 6:45am |
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Some people might do a Google search or find an electronics geek type to see what could be done to keep the radio on when starting the boat (or car)
Me, being not too geeky at least with electronics asked one of those type friends and he started talking about things like capacitors and diodes and how to wire something up. (His radio stays on when he restarts the boat and he only uses one battery) When i snapped out of the dazed semi coma that his conversation had put me into, he said, why don't you watch this YouTube video and it'll get the idea across to you. He did say your results might vary depending on the radio and your level of "geekiness" Since i don't exactly care about a stereo in a boat, I figured I'd post a link to the video he showed me and someone could give it a whirl or maybe someone will just tear the guy to pieces without ever trying it first I'd try it, if I had a radio I was interested.in keeping on while restarting PS Geek is used in a complimentary way in this post
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:39pm |
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And then 2 more feet of boat
 it never ends....
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:15pm |
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Gary,
You need 3 batteries!
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Gary S
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:00pm |
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I'll be danged Pete is right. Went out with 2 Optima's right off the maintainer #1 reading 12.90 #2 reading 13.34 volts. Connected them both up in their proper carriers. Testing all done at the main fuse box I hit the starter on both to see if it changed anything which it did- resting with key off #1 now read 12.73 #2 was 12.70 combined they were at 13.01 Now using #1 turned the key on it now read 11.75 #2 was at 11.72 combined they were at 13.01,this is with the original points system. Now the big test,hit the starter with #1 voltage dropped to a lowest of 10.0 #2 was at 9.69 and combined while cranking was 10.74
Looks like my idea of running a separate wire to #2 just to run the electronics would not work if you had the Perko switch in the both position anyway. You'd have to start it on the #1 only, then move the switch to both to keep them charged. Then when you stopped and go to restart you'd have to move the switch back to #1. Going to have to think this one out and maybe go to a ACR type system
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Gary S
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 1:18pm |
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I just happen to have the Shamrock here at home for an engine change. Since Ken has raised the bar I will go out and throw a battery in it and test. It has done it with 2 new batteries and has done it when you crank it over with both supplying power. That's why I suspect PCM has wired it so it kills all accessories while in crank mode so that it does not lower voltage to the coil. Maybe that's why they don't bother to bypass the coil resistor when starting?
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 11:29am |
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Gary,
Some electronics have built in protection that shuts them down with voltage issues. This may be the case with low voltage during cranking??
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Gary S
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 10:04am |
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Pete- I think there is something more to this than that, I think it’s the way PCM has it wired. The reason I think this is because my Shamrock does the exact same thing, all electronic’s shut down when starting. I have dual Optima batteries with a Perko switch, no matter what position the switch is in out they go , one, two or both. Never looked into it but I had planned to run a separate fused lead from the second battery just to feed the electronics. The only thing common between these two boat companies is the PCM power. Is it possible the solenoid shuts down power to the accessory side of the system when in the start position?
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drekeith
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:46am |
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Thanks. The battery is a Oreillys Brand 24 MS. CCA 800 / MCA 1000, but yea I just looked and it is almost exactly 3 years old, but year I think its just not enough to keep it all going while cranking. Like I said the 10.5 ish as cranking was a rough estimate. I will check it out again, but I think it would take 2 batteries as well and its not worth that much trouble to me since the fit is already tight with just one battery. This battery is actually a tad to tall in the first place
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KD
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:28am |
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Keith,
With one battery, I don't feel there's a solution. Cranking the engine drops the volts down to the point where the sound system can't handle it. The 10.5 is on the low side so you may what to check the condition of the battery. Have it load tested. Also, what type of battery is it? Cranking an engine needs a starting type and not a deep cycle.
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drekeith
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:13am |
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Sounds like you hit a home run. Back a few years ago I beefed up my 94 SN but adding a powered sub with a dedicated 8 ga power from battery and ground to the motor.
I also ran a separate 8 gauge power and another dedicated 8 ga ground to a a power block and a ground block under the dash. On this I installed new clarion m303 radio with 4 new monster 6 inch speakers and a monster amp. In a addition installed a relay between acc1 and the clarion in hopes that the radio would not shut off every time I start the engine. On the plus side, I can crank volume to whatever level, have blower and bilge running and nothing cuts out, but I still have the issue where when I restart the motor (say when picking up a skier) the radio reboots, kicking off my bluetooth connection to my phone, etc.. Again, I was hoping the relay would solve that issue but somehow is still resets. I put a multi meter on the power and ground block the other day just to see what the volts dropped to when I started the engine. Running, I am getting about 13.5 V, but where I shut engine off an restart is bounced down to 10.5 V (or so) and I can only guess the radio cant sustain staying on when it drops that much. I don't have room for an additional battery to help that issue (as has been suggested) but maybe someone can help me figure a way to solve this cut out issue on restarting.
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KD
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Bamanautique91
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Joined: October-27-2020 Location: North Alabama Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Posted: June-30-2021 at 7:58am |
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does anyone still have these images/diagrams? They aren't showing up for me on this thread? Would love the ones from the thread on the new ground wire being ran as well. I had my 91 die on acceleration and the ignition breaker kept tripping. When I got it home and reseated the wires on the ignition breaker it fired right up, but just wanted to check wiring and grounds. Thank you!
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Ryan
91 Ski Nautique Huntsville, AL |
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flyweed
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Joined: July-11-2016 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 539 |
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Posted: September-07-2016 at 11:13pm |
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thanks much. I read through your thread..and will be adding the extra ground and hot runs from the engine to the dash.
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'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
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Bri892001
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Posted: September-07-2016 at 10:24pm |
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Here's the work I did on my 93, plus work others did to theirs as well;
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21901 |
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Bri892001
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Posted: September-07-2016 at 10:21pm |
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The logic for the 93 is basically the same as the diagram for the 89 that you'll find under reference > miscellaneous on this site.
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flyweed
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Posted: September-07-2016 at 8:55pm |
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Sorry to dredge up an old thread..but I am wondering if ANYONE knows of a dash wiring diagram for a 1993 SN? Is it the same as the 1990??
I am going to dig in and replace some non working backlights in a few gauges, maybe pull a new 10 gauge ground wire from the engine, and stuff like that. a diagram for the back would be great. Thanks for any thoughts, help, etc. |
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'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
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spiralhelix
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Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Posted: July-07-2015 at 7:22pm |
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the top sides of the breakers are all daisy chained together, so you can attach your 12v ig wire from the stereo to the bottom part of the breaker. The preferred method for adding the ground is to use a negative bus bar, but you can just pigtail the stereo ground with the others. Not sure if i have seen much discussion on the 96, but a lot of people have run new power to the ig breaker and a new ground, both increasing the size from 14 gauge to 10 gauge.
Not familiar with the yellow wire, so I can't comment on that without looking at a diagram. -Spiral UPDATE: I just looked at the diagram on the first page. You shouldn't have to do anything with the yellow wire. Seems odd they even wired the stereo off the clock to begin with. In a car, the ignition acts as the switch for the stereo, but when using the acc switch, that will do the same thing, so you don't need to wire the stereo to the ignition key. |
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drekeith
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Posted: July-07-2015 at 7:09pm |
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Hello...I love the diagram and it looks similar to my 1994 sport nautique.. I am no electrician (but can do some wiring). I simply want to run my new radio from a spare acc breaker because currently it runs from the clock (as you would know) and at louder volumes my radio goes into safe mode "or just shuts off" I suspect it is drawing down too much amperage through the smaller wire that runs form the clock when i turn it up but I would like to simply require so that it is on acc 3 or 4. Can you guide me on where to connect my new hot wire and ground (also running from the clock). Also, what about the current yellow wire that runs form the ignition (or I can just leave that one I guess?)
Thank you! |
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KD
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SNobsessed
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Posted: July-09-2013 at 8:57pm |
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Old thread, but was informative - I finally added the extra hot-feed to the ignition breaker today. I gained about 1/2 volt per the dash voltmeter.
I pretty much followed what was discussed here but I also added a fuse for the new 10 gage wire - my thought was that if the main wire ever was somehow taken out of the circuit, the 10 gage wire would only be protected by the 50 amp breaker (do you smell something burning?) The fuse is tie-wrapped to the breaker bracket: 
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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gjsullivan
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Joined: November-08-2004 Location: Hillsboro, OR Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: August-30-2011 at 3:17am |
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Nick,
The blue wires you have going to the instrument lights do not have a connection to power. I think you need to bring a connection down to a light switch. Glenn |
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67 Mustang, 90 Sport
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gjsullivan
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Posted: August-24-2011 at 11:15pm |
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Nick,
Are these drawings had drawn on paper ? |
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67 Mustang, 90 Sport
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Airgrabber
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Posted: August-24-2011 at 3:02pm |
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As for added a relay to your starter that’s a good idea because as the contacts in the ignition switch can only handle so much current. It’s like having a resistor in the circuit if your contacts are getting burnt or bad. I do that in a lot of older cars that I’ve rewired because the ignition wires run through the switch. As for voltage drop you should have the same voltage reading from the regulator threw the whole circuit. If there is a voltage drop to any of the components it can be several issues, to small wire, bad connections, and loose terminals. Look at all the wires and connections make sure they are not discolored. Also over sizing you wire by a couple of gauges will definably not hurt anything especially if you adding a stereo. Take an amp reading at the regulated 12 volts and make sure not drawing more that what the alternator is rated at.
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Life is good. Work hard! Play Hard!
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storm34
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Posted: August-24-2011 at 12:40pm |
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Threadjack...
Nick, lets see some pics of that jump boat!!! |
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gjsullivan
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Posted: August-24-2011 at 4:12am |
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OK here is how you see the whole diagrams.
right click on a diagram. You can do a save as and save it as a jpg file that you can then open and print. Or you can right click, copy and paste it into a word doc. set the page to landscape and save the doc. Thanks for doing this. I drew my entire wiring diagram. Had it for 10 years and lets just say the diagram disappeared last week.( I should have made a copy :-( oh well ) I have the leaking voltage problem and we were going to try and track it down, but without the wiring diagram it would take a while. Can you provide the source files you used to draw the diagrams. I have some custom wiring I have done and would need to modify what you have. Thanks for all the work laying out the wiring. Glenn gjsullivan@juno.com |
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67 Mustang, 90 Sport
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MinaquaWI
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Posted: June-20-2011 at 6:07pm |
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Dave that's great!
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Current - 1991 Sport Nautique, 1970 Glastron GT-140, 1970's MasterCraft Jump Boat
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drekeith wrote:
