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1990 Dash Wiring

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Bamanautique91 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bamanautique91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 7:58am
Originally posted by MinaquaWI MinaquaWI wrote:

In an effort to be a contributor to the site, I wanted to share my most recent project with the group in case any of you would find it useful or interesting. If anyone would like larger bmp's of my wiring diagrams, please let me know.

This year we bought a 1990 Sport Nautique and on the first voyage learned it has quite an annoying chirp and less than 10v from the common "low-voltage/bad ground/corroded connections at the dash" condition that I've been reading about. After spending an hour under the dash with a multi-meter tracing wires I put together a wiring diagram based off some of the other diagrams on this site.

Right away I noticed a few things that didn't seem correct, so I also made a diagram of what I believe the wiring was from the factory. I have not verified EVERY wire but believe this my diagram to be pretty accurate. I would invite feedback on this from other members - specifically, what is the orange wire from my one accessory switch going to? It doesn't appear to power anything.

And then lastly, I made a diagram of the changes I made to the boat. This includes running two 8ga wires to the dash, powering the ignition switch using a relay, adding two power points (which is really how this whole thing started) and providing new grounds to some equipment. I did not go through and clean the connections or solder anything. I am getting a solid 13.5 volts on the gauge while running and turning on accessories like the blower, heater, or stereo don't even make the needle move.

Again, please provide input on the diagrams - I had to move some gauges and switches around to make it look like my 1990 dash so there may be some adjusting I need to do for wiring. If we can get the "factory" diagram to a point where the site admin's are comfortable, I would be happy to provide the larger sized file to be posted in the reference section. Thanks!



Sorry to bring up an old thread, but does anyone still have these images/diagrams?  They aren't showing up for me on this thread?  Would love the ones from the thread on the new ground wire being ran as well.  I had my 91 die on acceleration and the ignition breaker kept tripping.  When I got it home and reseated the wires on the ignition breaker it fired right up, but just wanted to check wiring and grounds.  

Thank you!
Ryan

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drekeith View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drekeith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:13am
Sounds like you hit a home run.  Back a few years ago I beefed up my 94 SN but adding a powered sub with a dedicated 8 ga power from battery and ground to the motor.  
I also ran a separate 8 gauge power and another dedicated 8 ga ground to a a power block and a ground block under the dash.  On this I installed new clarion m303 radio with 4 new monster 6 inch speakers and a monster amp. In a addition installed a relay between acc1 and the clarion in hopes that the radio would not shut off every time I start the engine.  
On the plus side, I can crank volume to whatever level, have blower and bilge running and nothing cuts out, but I still have the issue where when I restart the motor (say when picking up a skier) the radio reboots, kicking off my bluetooth connection to my phone, etc..  Again, I was hoping the relay would solve that issue but somehow is still resets.
 I put a multi meter on the power and ground block the other day just to see what the volts dropped to when I started the engine.  Running, I am getting about 13.5 V, but where I shut engine off an restart is bounced down to 10.5 V (or so) and I can only guess the radio cant sustain staying on when it drops that much.  I don't have room for an additional battery to help that issue (as has been suggested) but maybe someone can help me figure a way to solve this cut out issue on restarting.
KD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:28am
Keith,
With one battery, I don't feel there's a solution. Cranking the engine drops the volts down to the point where the sound system can't handle it. The 10.5 is on the low side so you may what to check the condition of the battery. Have it load tested. Also, what type of battery is it? Cranking an engine needs a starting type and not a deep cycle. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drekeith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 9:46am
Thanks.  The battery is a Oreillys Brand 24 MS.  CCA 800 / MCA 1000, but yea I just looked and it is almost exactly 3 years old, but year I think its just not enough to keep it all going while cranking.  Like I said the 10.5 ish as cranking was a rough estimate.  I will check it out again, but I think it would take 2 batteries as well and its not worth that much trouble to me since the fit is already tight with just one battery.  This battery is actually a tad to tall in the first place
KD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 10:04am
Pete- I think there is something more to this than that, I think it’s the way PCM has it wired. The reason I think this is because my Shamrock does the exact same thing, all electronic’s shut down when starting. I have dual Optima batteries with a Perko switch, no matter what position the switch is in out they go , one, two or both. Never looked into it but I had planned to run a separate fused lead from the second battery just to feed the electronics. The only thing common between these two boat companies is the PCM power. Is it possible the solenoid shuts down power to the accessory side of the system when in the start position?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 11:29am
Gary,
Some electronics have built in protection that shuts them down with voltage issues. This may be the case with low voltage during cranking??


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 1:18pm
I just happen to have the Shamrock here at home for an engine change. Since Ken has raised the bar I will go out and throw a battery in it and test. It has done it with 2 new batteries and has done it when you crank it over with both supplying power. That's why I suspect PCM has wired it so it kills all accessories while in crank mode so that it does not lower voltage to the coil. Maybe that's why they don't bother to bypass the coil resistor when starting?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:00pm
I'll be danged Pete is right. Went out with 2 Optima's right off the maintainer #1 reading 12.90 #2 reading 13.34 volts. Connected them both up in their proper carriers. Testing all done at the main fuse box I hit the starter on both to see if it changed anything which it did- resting with key off  #1 now read 12.73  #2 was 12.70 combined they were at 13.01   Now using #1 turned the key on it now read 11.75  #2 was at 11.72  combined they were at 13.01,this is with the original points system. Now the big test,hit the starter with #1 voltage dropped to a lowest of 10.0  #2 was at 9.69 and combined while cranking was 10.74
Looks like my idea of running a separate wire to #2 just to run the electronics would not work if you had the Perko switch in the both position anyway. You'd have to start it on the #1 only, then move the switch to both to keep them charged. Then when you stopped and go to restart you'd have to move the switch back to #1. Going to have to think this one out and maybe go to a ACR type system
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:15pm
Gary,
You need 3 batteries! Big smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2021 at 4:39pm
And then 2 more feet of boat LOL it never ends....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 6:45am
Some people might do a Google search or find an electronics geek type to see what could be done to keep the radio on when starting the boat (or car)

Me, being not too geeky at least with electronics asked one of those type friends and he started talking about things like capacitors and diodes and how to wire something up. (His radio stays on when he restarts the boat and he only uses one battery)

When i snapped out of the dazed semi coma that his conversation had put me into, he said, why don't you watch this YouTube video and it'll get the idea across to you. He did say your results might vary depending on the radio and your level of "geekiness"

Since i don't exactly care about a stereo in a boat, I figured I'd post a link to the video he showed me and someone could give it a whirl or maybe someone will just tear the guy to pieces without ever trying it first


I'd try it, if I had a radio I was interested.in keeping on while restarting  

PS Geek is used in a complimentary way in this post Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:04am
I am wondering if installing a flux capcitor might help in this situation?? Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drekeith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 10:45am
That is a great idea! In my case I have installed a relay between the switch and radio where the relay is powered direct to the power block. In this case, where would the small 16v capacitor need to go?
KD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:35pm
Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

I am wondering if installing a flux capcitor might help in this situation?? Big smile

I think a vibrating magnetic transmogrification unit would be far superior to a flux capacitor in this particular situation. Wink
 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by drekeith drekeith wrote:

That is a great idea! In my case I have installed a relay between the switch and radio where the relay is powered direct to the power block. In this case, where would the small 16v capacitor need to go?

It seems like it would do it's job wired between the relay output terminal(87 terminal) and the radio.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drekeith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 2:25pm
Sound logical. I have been thinking through it and I am no electrical guru, but I wonder if the switch (86) side also cuts out when starting the motor and would cause the relay “switch” to trip? I guess there is only one way to know and if it does not work then another wire splice isn't going to be the end of the world.
KD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2021 at 4:03pm
I'd think I'd put the diode and the capacitor after the 87 terminal in that order to feed the radio ( relay to diode to capacitor to radio)

The capacitor should keep the power there for a few seconds, keeping the radio powered while the boat starts.

If you had an excessive crank time, the radio would probably lose power.

PS Here's where you throw in one of those many sayings about  "it's better to have tried and failed..................................

It's even better to try and succeed though, Good luckWink
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