Distributor

So I inspected my distributor and it seems to be ok. However, I noticed the weights were a little rusty. They still seem to be functioning ok right now but the boat is still not running right. I did notice however there are two different size springs on the weights. Is that normal? Or is this rigged up somehow? I am having a hard time finding any weights or springs for this dizzy, any suggestions.
Also if I were to switch to an electronic conversion kit that wouldnt elminate the weights would it? Also if I bought a new distributor say a mallory electronic would there be any advantage to that route over converting my existing one to electronic or would it essentially be the same thing. I am just brain storming at this point as I still dont know what is wrong with the boat.

Yes they are supposed to hav 2 different springs. Its kind of like a 2 stage advance. And no the electronic kit only replaces the points and condenser. Weights remain in place for the timing advance purposes. Hope this helps....

So you have the motor back together and running?

Where is your initial timing at? 10 degrees?

You don't need a fancy timing light to check total, just rev the engine and record the timing at different rpms up to point the timing stops advancing. That number is your total advance, keep in mind it is affected by your initial so you must get that dialed in first.

Without going back to your other thread I need to ask, is this engine in perfect tune,ie: new points, gap/dwell set correctly ,new condenser, cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Have you thrown a vacuum gauge on it? What did it read at idle? You've checked for vacuum leaks at the carb base gasket?   I seem to recall you did a compression test and all was good there right?

The engine is not back together yet, but will be this weekend, so I will have more info then.

I will do what you said to check total advance and record those numbers.

Ok my initial timing was set at 6 degrees according to the manufacturer suggestion and was there for 50 hours with no sweat. Then one day bam, running like crap and out of time. I have in the last 50 hours replaced the plugs, plug wires and dist cap. I will try 10 degrees based on the suggestions made on this sight. I have not checked or replaced rotor, cond or points but seriously am considering it. Is this the correct kit? tune up kit

I will try 10 degrees based on the suggestions made on this sight.

As far as a vacuum check, no I have not, what is your reccomendation for testing that? The carb was rebuild about 50 hours ago as well.

Justin,
Bad link fixed: tune up kit

Didn't I fix one for you the other day? You're not doing something correct!!

Jllogan wrote: Pete, Yours didnt work either, I fixed mine in my original post.

I normally check my own links by useing the "preview post" but this time I was called out of my office and just posted it!! It did work the first time when I copied your link and it took me right to Summits page!!

Justin,
Yes, I'd go back with the point set. Set your dwell with the feeler gauge and then double check it with the dwell meter.

Still not running right. I tried to hook a vacuum gauge up to where the PCV valve goes into the spacer and it read a little low and on my gauge it suggested the vacuum was due to timing. However, according to the timing light I am at 10 BTDC. So that seems weird.

I also noticed that when I took the flame arrester off there was a significant amount of water drops sittle on the throttle plates. Is that unusual? or a sign of water in the gas?


I am going to try to run some fresh gas in since this whole thing started right after I fueled up.

What about points? If they would going bad would it run rough?

I have pulled them and there are a quite a few that are black. They have also only been in about an hour of runnning time as that was one of the first things I have replaced.

Also one other side note is that the rotor on the distributor wiggles a little on the shaft. Should that be tight or have some play in it. Maybe that could be the issue?

Jllogan wrote: does that look like the right one to you? It says its for a prestolite v8. Summit has the best price, skidim has the parts but you have to buy them separate and it ends up being 30+ by then, I thought the rotor looked a little different than mine on that kit.

Napa has all the parts for your distributor. I just bougt all mine there for the prestolight. If your local store doesnt have them in stock they can probably have them next day.

Skidim, Nautiqueparts, MyCorrectCraftParts (Boat Dr. above) all sell complete tune up kits for Marine Prestolites. I'd tend to go that route over Summit etc.

Does your rotor and shaft together wiggle? That is normal. If the rotor is not super tight onto the shaft, and wiggles in respect to that, that could be a problem. That would mean the base of the rotor is cracked and/or it's not all the way seated.

Carb wise, are you getting any internal leaking after shutdown. In other words, if you have it running with the Spark Arrestor off, and shut off the motor, do you see that gas is still leaking out of the boosters?

Could be some debri got loose after the rebuild and clogged up a needle and seat or something.

I just had simular trouble after a tune up. turned out the new point condenser went bad. new points and condenser from NAPA cured it. $18