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Running boat on land

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oledb4 View Drop Down
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    Posted: December-06-2011 at 1:27pm
I am looking into buying a 1986 Ski Nautique 2001 for my first boat. I want to get it in the water, or at least crank it up and see how it runs. To my understanding, it is bad to have a boat running on land without a water source??? A guy suggested this to me: Flushing adapter

Does this seem pretty legit? The boat has also been sitting for close to a year and needs a battery. I'm going to get a new battery obviously, and then some clean gas. Should this be sufficient to get it running? I'm just worried with it sitting for so long I might not get a true representation of the engine you know? I would definitely get a tune up done if I bought the boat just FYI, but I don't want to spend $$ on that unless I am for sure going to buy it. Any advice/thoughts are helpful. Thx guys!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 1:42pm
That thing is probably fine, but a little complex.

There are a few simple ways to go.

1. Undo your water intake hose at the thru hull. stick a garden hose in it and clamp it down, should be the right size. Turn on the water, start it up.

2. Come up with a little plumbing and a little bit of hose and extend your water intake hose (again removed at the thru hull) so it is long enough to reach into a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with a garden hose and keep the garden hose running. Start the boat and it will draw from the bucket. The advantage of this method is it will demonstrate your water pump is working. If you use method 1, the hose pressure will fill the motor and you dont know if the pump is actually working.
bucket method link

3. Some people plumb a T with a valve into the water intake hose. This is good because it makes running on the hose quick and easy.

4 and 5. There are store bought alternatives. Search fake-a-lake or perko flush pro, but both of those are unnecessry expenses and work no better than 1,2, and 3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 1:57pm


Is this what you mean by option #3??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:00pm
Exactly, in fact I went to find that picture, but couldnt come up with it right away. No need to valve off between the fitting and the thru hull either. Water will run out the thru hull till you start the boat and the the pump will pull the water to the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:28pm
Gotcha. So for the sake of just firing it up, connecting the water hose directly into the intake hose should suffice??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:36pm
For what you are trying to accomplish option 1 is fine, bring duct tape and a 5 gal bucket also, if there is enough pickup hose to put it directly in the bucket, as Larry mentioned, a better option, if not however just run it directly connected to the hose.

If doing option 1, Turn the water and boat on together, same with off, avoid sustained high RPM's as the draw "should" exceed the hose output and could literally outdraw the supply and possibly run "dry".

You should also bring your camera and take and post lot's of pic's here were you will undoubtedly get some great feedback on what you are looking at.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:43pm
high rpm = 1,500
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:48pm
It should. Another option would be to get some 1" (correct me if i'm wrong on size Larry) cooling hose. Undue the intake side of the strainer and extend that to your bucket. The hose can be pricey though.

I saw you mentioned replacing the battery. Remember, you want a regular automotive starting battery in this case. Group 65N. This is one instance were you don't want "Marine" and you especially don't want a marine deep cycle. Just an automotive battery, and they don't all fit in the battery box, that why you need the 65.

If it's sat for some time, expect possible carburetor issues. This is not an automatic deal breaker though, if the boat is otherwise good shape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 2:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:05pm
Interesting, we were planning on buying a deep cell marine battery. Why do I want a regular automotive battery in this case?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:05pm
I haven't done any battery shopping in a while, but sometimes "marine" simply means you get 5/16" studs next to the regular old top posts. Read the label, you do want a starting battery.

batteries explained at boatsafe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:19pm
Don't buy any hose as Bri linked as it would be a total waste of money and totally overkill, also not sure I would run out and spend $70-$100 on a battery you may not even need plus do you even know what kind of battery connections the boat has, Top, Side, Rings??

If the boat is not to far away go inspect it, take some pics, and report back. If there is a battery in the boat try a charger or jumping it, another option you might just be able to use one of your vehicles battery to start it or borrow one if possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:22pm
Originally posted by oledb4 oledb4 wrote:

Interesting, we were planning on buying a deep cell marine battery. Why do I want a regular automotive battery in this case?

A deep cycle is made for low amp draws over long times (like a trolling motor). The starting load is the exact opposite being a very high amp draw for a short time. It will kill a deep cycle.

As HW mentioned, the "marine" has studs - you don't need them.

Did someone actually tell you you needed a marine deep cycle?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:23pm
Good we caught you in time on the battery thing. Check out this thread:
What size/type battery for a 95 SN?

I'll paraphrase Pete's most noteworthy quote from the thread:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Deep Cycles are for small loads over long times. Starting is a BIG load for a short time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 3:24pm
Or Pete himself will explain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 4:04pm
did marine batteries just recently stop making the stud wing nut combination for some reason?
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 4:12pm
This guy tried to run his boat on land


This lady tried to run her car on the water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 4:53pm
So I talked to the guy selling the boat, and we are going to drop it in the water tomorrow just for a quick test run. Do I just need a regular battery for this? And am I going to eventually want a deep cell if I purchase the boat??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 4:55pm
Also, I should be taking and posting pictures tomorrow to get some feedback. Thanks guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by oledb4 oledb4 wrote:

So I talked to the guy selling the boat, and we are going to drop it in the water tomorrow just for a quick test run. Do I just need a regular battery for this? And am I going to eventually want a deep cell if I purchase the boat??


yes a regular battery is fine, no you dont ever want a deep cycle in these boats unless you are running a trolling motor. Or you want to run 2 batters and run the deep cycle for accesories while the boat isnt running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 5:06pm
Probaby one of your best best for this test drive, and not bad to have in general is one of those rechargeable jumper backs. Good to have for boat, car or whatever. Traditional jumping is a PITA if not impossible, because you can't line up your truck battery with the boat battery very easily with the boat in the water.

If you buy the boat, and need to replace the battery, you want a starting battery.

The only way you'd get into deep cycele for a boat like that is if you had some kind of monster stereo setup and were running dual batteries like Jllogan mentions above.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 5:18pm
Also, is it a good idea to convert to electronic ignition? And how expensive is this? I'm thinking if it is not too expensive to just have the Nautique shop do it when they are doing a tune up on it. Any thoughts??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 5:36pm
A lot (maybe most) guys on this site still run points. If your boat runs fine with the points setup, no need to switch.

Most say that the conversion kits are a bad idea. If you wanted to go electronic, better to go with a whole new distributor that is electronic to start with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oledb4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 6:09pm
OK. and I am not familiar at all with the points setup, is there anything involved as far as adjustments that nee to be made or anything like that? Why do some people convert and others dont?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 6:20pm
Originally posted by oledb4 oledb4 wrote:

OK. and I am not familiar at all with the points setup, is there anything involved as far as adjustments that nee to be made or anything like that? Why do some people convert and others dont?


Well this is long answer. really you just need to check the gap between the points (short answer). Points are a regular maintenance issue I have seen some people suggest on a car to change them every 5000 miles. If you check them and change them regularly they will never be a problem. The electronic kit "should" last longer however not all kits are created equal some people have had performance issues etc.

So its a little bit of a gamble but some people have been very happy with their conversions. Alot of guys just carry an extra set of points on the boat so if they burn out they just do a quick swap and are back and running. If the electronic kit fails sad movie. Also the kits are around 100 bucks. I say save your money at first. If you decide you want to convert later fine. There are other better ways to spend your 100 bucks when you first buy a boat and i am sure you will have to. New battery, maybe new battery cables, solenoid, who knows!!! At first if it isnt broke dont fix it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 6:22pm
Put a feeler guage in the gap in 'B', I think its supposed to .016-.020. Something like that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 6:50pm
Justin is giving good advice. Leave the points. Since 2003 my points have been changed once. Usually faulty points can be repaired by filing the corrosion off of the tips to get you through the weekend. In the beginning I would take "if its not broke, don't fix it" as the gospel. I do have a distributor tune up kit that I keep in the boat just in case the current set fails. You will usually get some warning that they are going bad before a total failure. EI will just stop working and leave you guessing what is going on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote P71_CrownVic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2011 at 10:54pm
YT

Watch Video
Enjoy Sound
At the end you will see my adapter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2011 at 8:48am
Originally posted by oledb4 oledb4 wrote:

And am I going to eventually want a deep cell if I purchase the boat??

You must has missed reading the previous posts on batteries as well as the links. Please go back and read the thread.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2011 at 12:03pm
Pete, he is going to install a minn kota on the front
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