Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

Duane I wouldn't mind talking it over sometime but a lot has already been covered here in various threads like this one
Old thread with a talk on skiing vs speed needs

I would be careful on modifying a rudder that you are going to run fast.. they do break and some act crazy when even a little off in my experience... you would be better off welding one up in steel and shaping if that was the route you wanted to go

8122pbrainard wrote: peter1234 wrote: doesnt Glen-L have an assortment of rudders? They do but wow, $$$ and some are chrome platted steel! Buck Algonquin has more I'd sure look into the repair first. Jim, Do you have a picture of the rudder you can post so we can take a look at how bad it is?

I would be leaning heavily towards a “speed rudder” in that boat.   The stock rudders work well for lower speed maneuverability but they have a tendency to suck air and stall, that coupled with a low nose and hard chines likes to flip the boat around as previously discussed. One remedy employed successfully on several fast 16 foot boats around these parts is a speed rudder or a hybrid design rudder. They are less available than they used to be but if you keep your eyes out you will find one.   A plate behind the rudder to prevent sucking air might help as well.   

doesnt Glen-L have an assortment of rudders?

Welp, the rudder I bought was a bust, bent to the left. Doesn't have any real mares on it so I can understand it being a honest mistake. Back to square one I guess

peter1234 wrote: I had a prop shop look at mine they thought they could straighten it. they gave it bck to me in 2 pieces

I actually lol'd at that (sorry for your loss)


So because summers coming up on me quick I saw a Correct Craft rudder on ebay and just snatched in up. Says it's for a full size tournament ski nautique, it's definitely a little larger I'll post up pics when it arrives. It was only $70 shipped so if it doesn't look like it will work out no great loss

Hussler wrote: I don't know where I could find somebody to take a look at welding it but don't feel too comfortable about using it now. Camera couldn't pick it up, it's about 1/8 deep, looks like it's tearing

Jim,
Have a prop shop look at it.

Hussler wrote: I know it's bad enough where I have to snug down the packing quite a bit over the last two years

The rudder port packing can be tightened lots more that what you would do on the prop shaft packing and is typical. The rudder shaft isn't constantly rotating like the prop shaft is.

Hussler wrote: I forgot to say its also a little bent,

Jim,
Just like a strut, rudders can be straightened too.

8122pbrainard wrote: Duane, I'll guess it's about 1/4"??

With .005 total slop I came up with approx .017 movement. at the bottom of 12" rudder.

Gary S wrote: For us non machinist's would you be able to repair the port with only a lathe?

Gary,
Yes, with the OD (not the flange) of the port being round it's an easy chuck up. There are some fantastic stainless shelled bushings that are Frelon (a PTFE) that have pretty thin shells with a wall thickness at 3/32".

Duane,
I'd have to guess that when new, the clearance is around. 005 which to a machinist like yourself, that's pretty sloppy! There was never any reason to go with a tight fit. The packing holds to shaft tight and there's no worry about rotation like the prop shaft. Get your old slide rule out and trig out the movement you would get at the bottom with a rudder about 12" tall and a rudder port about 5" tall. With the packing at the top of the 5", it's close to a zero clearance there so the .005 is only at the bottom of the 5". I'll guess it's about 1/4"??

But, boring a 1" log to a 1 1/4" won't leave enough space for packing.

woops, sorry Pete, didn't notice the word "bushing".

Jim,
I'd suggest waiting and try the existing rudder before making any changes. My gut feeling is to not go any bigger since you certainly don't want to create any oversteer or steering abruptness with the engine you have in the Mustang.

BTW, boring and bushing the port is an option. Also keep in mind the rudder shaft to port bore is typically pretty sloppy even when new.

Thanks, I spent a LOT of time polishing the damn things lol

Got them all polished up, I'll pull the gas tank ect in the coming weeks. Might paint the cylinders the same white as the bottom of the boat, well see.