Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

Thanks!

Okay since someone asked I'll explain why it looks like I'm trying to reinvent the wheel!

The kit I ordered has special short rams that aren't avalible in the other kits. Drawback to just ordering the rams is that they are the same price as a complete kit... So then I'm stuck with the trim tabs it came with and I can either buy the proper tabs (119 each) and I would still have to modify them slightly to accept the smaller rams.

As for the geometry, the actuators are actually still close to the regular angle that they are normally mounted at, I think it just looks steep because they are mounted so close to the tail of the tab. I also have the tab more "retracted" than is probably necessary, but the tab has a lot of travel and it doesn't take much to stop the problem I'm experiencing. Mastercraft actually had a cavitation tab in the early 2000's that had an extension bracket mounted off the edge of the tab making the ram very close to parallel with the bottom of the boat.

As for the back of the boat and reinforcement, I'm not sure yet. I don't remember how thick the glass is back there. If it's thick enough where the factory screws that came with the kit easily pierce through to the inside of the boat then I'll probably layup some 3/4" ply

Here's the trim tabs being cut down. Drilled out the spot welds for the hinges then cut out the mount for the actuator. Haven't decided if I'm going to world on the mounts or bolt them on, for adjustability.

Larry,
I'm as confused as you are. No apples to apples and you don't put many people in a Jersey plus the hull shape as mentioned is completely different. I've driven both the reproduction Jersey as well as an original and the handling isn't even close to the 60's CC 's.

Jim,
For the convenience of others, here's a proper link.

Kind of like the "spoiler" on my Toyota Corolla. I feel much safer knowing my rear end isn't going to go flying up in the air.

Someone along the line added them to my Marauder....they are the manual type that are set with a bolt.......I have never tried setting them different and don't know if they make one bit of difference. I also don't get past 43-45 mph. But with a few people in the back at WOT it hops down the lake like a wild amusement park ride!

Before and after of the 84 mastercraft

Just realized I never showed you guys the two motors I got over the summer. The one out of the tan Mastercraft is a standard 351w PCM that was sitting for 12 years in Texas. It would need a total rebuild but is complete. The other is a 351w Holman Moody that kinda runs but needs lots of love, compression OK but fuel and ignition need a lot of work. Hoping to come across a first Gen mastercraft or first Gen nautique hull or barracuda for the Holman Moody someday. Both are in my tent with the boat. Both boats got brand new fully dressed chevys.

Considering just about every inboard from the mid 90's to present was offered trim tabs from the factory it's not crazy to believe that the instances of bow steer and chine lock are relatively low on factory or modified boats. Especially considering I personally know about 80 people with inboards (about 20 with trim tabs) and the only accidents with injuries I've learned of were related to crashing into land (2 instances) or fire (1 instance). To negate trim tabs as a reputable solution is completely absurd and the fact that they do work isn't up for discussion in my thread because I have seen them work flawlessly to solve the exact problem I'm experiencing. I too thought them a poor solution, but only due to the stigma some have to them on this website, I found that my real world first hand experience they are a great solution.

If you feel that strongly against trim tabs, just leave my thread.


Now onto the tabs! My kit came in the mail today, some quick measurements assured me that I will be able to mount these below the waterline no problem, which is very important to me as I HATE the black plastic. May even paint all the black Perfection white, but that's much later on.

The tabs themselves are 12 wide by 4 long which obviously won't work, still have to decide if I'll cut and weld these tabs or buy 9x12s. It's 10 degrees outside so I'm not sure when I'll start this project.

I think you are missing some points. Jim sounds like a very experienced driver and someone who has worked on a lot of different hull types - he's not some yahoo slamming the throttle down and seeing what happens. He is trying to correct a porpoise happening at around 30. The idea isn't to put the tabs down at 50, in fact he says in an earlier post that he will warn the Chris Craft owner of the dangers of over-tabbing. I think he'll approach this cautiously.

Jim, keep up the good work and let us know how the tabs work out.

Pete, was that question really necessary? When other guys on the site put more HP to their little hulls than they were ever intended to handle, I haven't seen you ask them about their insurance status.

I'm using the trim tabs to accommodate more people

The trial and error of changing props, shaft angles ect. MAY solve the issue of having more people in the boat, or it could cause the boat to slow down, flip at high speed, who knows

Boat drives great with just me in it, the amount of time effort and money in changing the shaft angle and prop to possibly fix one problem, when I know for a Fact the tabs will solve it, doesn't make much sense to me

Riley wrote: TRBenj wrote: This hull can run fast relatively safely- when set up properly. But someone still has to be the test pilot to figure out if it's set up properly.

Kind of like the old Mutual of Omaha Wild Kingdom - Marlin stays safely in the tree stand while Jim fights the wildebeest. Only in this case "let's film safely from shore while _______ (fill in Peter, Tim, Joe, Reid, etc.) drives the 16 ft. CC at 60 mph".

This hull can run fast relatively safely- when set up properly. I do not believe trim tabs are a means to that end.