drain fuel tank to winterize

I know its recommended to fill tank to 95% and add stable. Since my tank is near empty, would it be ok to empty the tank instead of filling it. Can I add fuel stablizer to only 5 gallons of fuel and run engine?

Thanks,
Shawn    

I have always drained mine,one because I'm too cheap to leave 20 gallons there doing nothing and two I'm to cheap to leave 20 gallons in to go bad. My tank is coated and the fact that we cannot get gas with out alcohol worries me,I would think but I'm not sure that it might even attract moisture? It's also inside so I don't think it goes thru as great of temperature swings.

Fuel tank construction is something to consider as well. If I had boats with plastic tanks, Id be running the entire system as close to empty as possible and then refilling in the spring. On older (aluminum or steel) tanks, I get more concerned with moisture and therefore, corrosion, if left completely empty. Last year I tried leaving 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank in the boats, treated with marine stabil (I had bad luck with the regular red stuff in years prior- the gas wouldnt keep over the winter). It seemed to work out ok. If possible, topping off with fresh fuel in the spring would be ideal.

I store ours with empty or near empty tanks. I syphon out what's left at the end of the season. You just got to remember you syphoned the tanks dry in the spring. On my BIL's boat, I was certain I didn't syphon his tank dry, but it would not start this past spring. After dinking around with it at the ramp for a 1/2 hour, we finally determined it wasn't pumping any fuel because there wasn't any.

Haha, thats great Bruce. Im sure Ive done that at least once.

I might suggest storing the boats with whatever fuel is left in them (as full as possible) and then siphoning off the old gas in the spring instead- that way you get the benefit of fresh fuel in the spring, as well as corrosion protection all winter.

Fuel with 10% ethanol isnt going to harm the fuel tanks much... Id be more concerned with the condensation that is apt to collect as temps rise and fall.

While the fuel can start to get a little iffy after sitting all winter (the boats will usually run with it, but have a hard time starting without a shot of fresh stuff down the carb throat), I have no problem running the older gas in lawnmowers, or the truck! Especially if its diluted with some fresh stuff.

I'm amazed at this topic.....

Overkill.

Best thing you can do is run your boat. Fresh 1/2 tank at the end of the year, top it off in the spring before you start it. If it doesn't sit more than 6 mos. its not going to make much difference.

watrski wrote: I'm amazed at this topic..... Overkill. Best thing you can do is run your boat. Fresh 1/2 tank at the end of the year, top it off in the spring before you start it. If it doesn't sit more than 6 mos. its not going to make much difference.

My boats sit for ~6 months on the nose (mid Oct to mid April) and Ive had one heck of a time getting gas to stay good over that period... so this topic is pretty valid to me, and anyone else with equal or longer layup periods.

watrski wrote: I'm amazed at this topic..... Overkill. Best thing you can do is run your boat. Fresh 1/2 tank at the end of the year, top it off in the spring before you start it. If it doesn't sit more than 6 mos. its not going to make much difference.

Overkill, I thought that was our motto here? It's what makes us better than everyone else.

WakeSlayer wrote: Never once had a problem. Stored full, stabilized, 5-7 months, 4 boats over 17 years. Just a matter of preference, I think.

I'll bet too Mike your fuel is not the same that we have here in the Chicago metro area

Gary S wrote: Thats why every steel tank I have regardless of what it is on,motorcycle,tractor,car I coated since we went with ethanol fuel.

Now I'm confused, I thought it was the plastic tanks that would degrade because of the ethanol, not the metal. Could you explain the reasoning for treating the metal tanks please.

I've always stored with about a half tank and no stabil. Spring I fire in the drive way on the same fuel on the hose to check around for leaks. Never had a slow start cracks right off when fuel hits the accelerator pump. I've been inside the carb a few times over the time I've owned it and it looks just as new as the day I originally rebuilt it. All a matter of opinion. My 67 has been stored this way for over 10 years and there is never any rust in my tiny little micron fuel filter. As far as the Skylark goes, I may suck that fuel out over winter becuase the tank is coated inside an out. IMHO 4-6 months tops is just below the time it takes to kill todays junk fuel. As a side note all the sleds have fuel shut offs. Kill the fuel let them die. Splash of fresh pre mix at first snow and they fire just fine. They sit longer than boats with less fuel in the tank. (the fuel in the sleds does smell a little off when snow hits)

Every boat at the shop here gets stabil and ran for atleast 20 minutes to circulate the fuel/stabil mix throughout the system. I would say the most important part of stabil in a carbureted application is to prevent varnish in the carb.

RB,

I have heard that Shrink wrapping the boat can cause big mold issues. The air can not move around ( Inside / Out) of the boat. I realize you have composite construction, but I would be concerned about staining the seats with mold. A cover that breathes would be better.

Just what I have heard over the years.

Donald

Don they do make vents but I don't know if they work. link

I'll confirm the mold problem with shrink wrapped boats. The vents help but if put away wet, it takes a long time to dry out and the mold starts.