Bedding epoxy (peanut butter)

West Systems makes something, but like all their stuff, its pricey.

Trying to avoid mixing your own? Its pretty easy to do- just pick your high strength filler, add it to the epoxy (already mixed) and once the consistency is where you want it, dump it in a ziploc bag and cut the corner off. Use it like a pastry bag.

(I cant remember who here recommended the ziploc idea but it works great.)

No idea, Ive never used it... just remember hearing about it.

Vic,
I totally agree with Tim. Get some fillers and mix your own. It does not take that much time plus it's very economical. Read up on the fillers. Different ones are used for high strength (difficult to sand) all the way down to a fairing filler (easy to sand).

Vic,
Sorry but the talc would be my last choice for a filler. Read up on some of the filler descriptions. For bedding the Stringers, go with Aerosil-Cabosil.

My mix is coming up right. Its the weather thats messing with me. So far the most ive mixed at one time was ten ounces of reisin with hardener added. Pot life was short real short. I found this while re bedding the pylon cup. How much resin was mixed for your recipe of filler?

Vic,
When you do a basic layup with just plain resin, one trick to keep the pot life at a reasonable time is to put the resin in a roller tray. This spreads the resin out so it's not confined in a small cup. It won't heat up and kick as quick.

I used my c.p.e.s I bought from jamestown dist yesterday . Man does that stuff disappear fast

Waternut wrote: Waternut wrote: My biggest batch of 4:1 resin is usually 500 grams which is 17.7oz (it's easier to be precise with grams). 400 resin and 100 harder and that's basically what I described above. If the temperature is in the mid 50's, I can get it all mixed and down before it starts setting up but just barely. I'm typically fairing out the last little bit with my fingers when it's starting to set up. On a side note, after about 15-20 minutes, the mixture is quite warm to pull out of the cup so that's definitely pushing the limits. I just mixed a batch less than an hour ago of 300g resin and 75 hardener. At the current temp of 70 degrees, I had maybe 15-20 minutes total to work with it. I've learned when the batch starts getting warm or starts getting a little stiffer than normal that I need to hurry up. I just realized I gave wrong information here. I realized my scale was on pounds instead of grams. So 500 grams that I was claiming earlier was actually 0.500 lbs which almost half of what I originally said. Sorry about that...

I kinda figured. I wasn't going to call you out on it. 500 grams is a lot different that 1/2 a pound lol..

We repair the engine rubstrip in most of the fan cases of the engines ( the big fan part of the engine that you see that provides 75% of the thrust) and some internal oil seals using an epoxy/micro balloon mixture. The stuff is pretty tough and on the oil seals we actually machine it to the proper dimensions.

ANYWAY......the mix ratio of balloons to resin we use is 23 to 100.   Measure out the weights on your digital scale the add the balloons after you mix the resin. This ratio will give you a creamy peanut butter consistency provided the balloons are free from moisture. In a total moisture free state they should free flow like sugar out of a bag. If they're moisture laden then you'll have a mashed potato consistency. Mixing moisture laden balloons with epoxy will give you a chunky peanut butter consistency. Dry them out if you can if they have moisture in them.

Hope this helps.

gR@HaM wrote: Sorry for the hijack, Roger can you advise the best place to source CPES in the UK? I'm after some for my new floor and transom cover, it seems to be pretty expensive over here!!

Graham I mix my own Tim and Billy put me on to it…CPES is a thinned epoxy, the ready made stuff may have a few other things in it to kill rot spores…but I have found the home mix works great had some on test for over a year now with no problems.
I use Sicomin epoxy which can be thinned after the hardener has been mixed in using Xylene Methanol they recommend 1 part epoxy to .5 thinner but the tests I did found it needs to be 1 part to .75/.85 depending on air temp.
Doing your own mix is about 1/3 cost of CPES here and you only mix what you need.
Let me know if you need more info and I post some links on Monday as I'm on my tablet and a newbi on it so can't do much yet

To bed anything use mil fiber.
Aerosil-Cabosil is OK but use mil fiber.

We do use glass beads (solid beads) for bond line
thickenss control

Micro balloons and talc is for a fairing only.
It's easist to sand.

Measure out your epoxy in cups no more than
400 grams (I like 200 grams) but pour the catylist on top gently,
then mix each cup as you use it.

Waterdog wrote: To bed anything use mil fiber. Aerosil-Cabosil is OK but use mil fiber. We do use glass beads (solid beads) for bond line thickenss control Micro balloons and talc is for a fairing only. It's easist to sand. Measure out your epoxy in cups no more than 400 grams (I like 200 grams) but pour the catylist on top gently, then mix each cup as you use it.

Thanks waterdog. I read that the talc is a good anti itch for fiberglass, guess i can use it after all...LOL...

Thanks for all the responses and the hyjack it is interesting to!

Graham,you can laminate with SR5550 will give a great finish as its clear unlike the laminating one which has a tint to it,but your find it will cost more for SR5550
I buy the 43Kg kits which I found to be cheaper than West at the time, they have small kits as well.