Carb Choke broken??

Mine broke about a month ago. I took it to Woody and he replaced the assembly from a donor.

I think the arm itself is broke. The exploded view shows that the linkage goes into a hole in the arm. It doesn't ride on top. I'm not sure I have Woody's number, but I will call to see if Nautiques of Orlando can help.

You need # 29 in above drawing correct ?Have some Holleys at shop will let you know shortly.

Carb Video

John, check out the video. The red arm pulls the choke rod downward as the choke heats up. What happens is over time the Bi-metallic spring inside the black choke puck degrades causing it to loose full range of motion. When the range of motion is lost it wont close the choke all the way. When you re adjust the choke to close it doesn't open the choke all the way. As long as that red arm has the ability to pull down on the choke I don't think you need any new parts.

Probably replace the spring and adjust properly and get your cold idle back like it was.

To confirm when the engine is completely cold the choke should be basically completely closed. I think the adjustment spec is 1/16" clearance when closed.

The engine vacuum will pull the choke open slightly when you rev it.

Having the choke adjusted exactly right will make you smile. If possible put the idle screw exactly where it was before so you don't need to adjust the idle mixture screws.

JPASS wrote: Made some calls today and had no luck. Tried to call Holley directly and the recording said my wait time was over and hour and to call back later. Most people are telling me to go to a manual choke or to replace the entire carb. Unreal. I'm more than willing to buy the entire choke assembly if possible, I am not seeing things that are for the 4010 carb. Mostly the 4160. Doh!

That's funny because I've called Holley in the past a human answered the phone and I was at lost for words because the last thing I expected was a human.

Call Woody at Southeast, last month he robbed a donor carb for me. 407/851-1965

Can't do pic but there is supposed to be weight at end of arm to aid pressure for fast idle cam.Do have one that looks the same.Does not look like it would effect cold start setting on choke just helps keeping arm against rod for cold idle setting

Let me know if you can't find the part you need. I switched to a 4160 and still have my old 4010.

Marine Carbs don't have fast cold idle settings so they don't need that step on the back. Wouldn't hurt anything if it was there. Might be a lot less hassle and work to pay a little extra and just buy the assembled electric choke assembly from Holley.

Here's a
Video I took today when starting her cold. She seems to idle a little low and stall after a minute or so. Choke cam appears to be working fine.

Here is a picture with the choke partially open. When it's closed the top of the plastic piece that is broken off on yours rests on the housing just above it.

One other thought if the cam is not broken. Someone commented last year that less than 12 volts at the choke will keep the choke from closing all the way; as a part of the diagnosis, check the voltage as it enters the choke.

Yes, it's inside of the cap. Usually about 35 bucks or so.

Get it done. I can't compete on stuff you can find in automotive world. There are specs on how to set the choke closed clearance. You don't want it completely slammed shut hard because it will hold too much air but if it's open slightly too large it will run just like it does right now.

That is the most common choke failure I have seen. Yes you are missing that weight on the red arm but an ounce or two shouldn't make it not close. If anything the weight is to assist with opening because it pulls downward on the choke rod.

Safe to assume I should have around 12V at the choke when the key is switched on correct? Im not the best with electrical issues, but I do have a meter.