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1988 Ski Nautique Rebuild

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    Posted: October-06-2014 at 1:09pm
Different hull, but on mine, the blower one hose (suction side) that just winds up towards the bottom of the engine, under the doghouse. That's where the fumes would wind up, so that's where it needs to suck from.

The output (blow side) winds up going out towards the top of the stern.

The intakes, on the bow, allow fresh air to be pulled into the doghouse from the vaccume created by the blower or pushed from forward movement of the boat while under way. They would have ducting that allows air to get towards the bilge, but I don't believe they would ever be connected directly to the blower.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2014 at 12:37pm
This weekend I got the two back deck sections completely fiberglassed and the bottom side of the mid front section glassed. I got one of the back pieces glued down.


Can anyone tell me what hoses connect to these inlets. Or they could be outlets? Either way, I cant figure out what hoses to connect to what. My boat has one intake hole on the left and two intake holes on the driver side. There are on two inlets/outlets on the blower motor so I need guidance. Thanks

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 3:56pm
do you have to use a hard pass through or can you just run the flex pvc through the cut outs in the wood and seal it up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 2:23pm
Flex PVC works very well for that exact reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 2:20pm
Thanks man, yeah I completely forgot about the battery cables. I really want to use something flexable for the vents, I think it will save alot of time if I can connect some flexy stuff somehow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 12:04pm
Either mat or cloth would be fine... Cloth will go a lot quicker and cheaper as it's easier to cut and soaks up a LOT less resin. Your call!

The size of the holes depends on what materials you use for vent hoses and conduit. Original vents were 3". 2.5" PVC is an oddball size but is 2-7/8" OD. I'd use 3" at a minimum for the conduit, 4" if you can fit it. The last hole you are forgetting is the conduit running to the battery box for the cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 11:55am
I got the front piece cut out last night, this turned out to be a chore. Lots of in and out of the boat.


When fiber-glassing the bottoms of the deck boards, is fiberglass mat sufficient or do I need to use cloth?

Im also stuck on what size holes to cut in my bulkhead board. I know there are 3 holes for the blower/vent lines and one for the drain to the battery box. And there needs to be a big one for the cables but I keep seeing a 6th hole that seems to be about 2.5 inches in other people's builds. What is this one for? All of my stuff was rotted and trashed and none of my vents were hooked up when I bought the boat so I dont have a good reference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 10:28am
I have also removed many pieces of what used to be marine plywood covered on both sides with west system epoxy and cloth (no CPES), that had turned into complete and total mush, rot would start at screw holes and move its way over. Of course these were not well taken care of boat by any reasonable standards, but the life of the costly repair was less than 5 years. If you are going to use an untreated wood in a boat do whatever you can to keep the water sealed out, everywhere you can. Then do everything you can to keep the boat dry.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 10:04am
No, we are smart enough to know now! Alan rebuilt the delux wood seat bases in his 81, and after just a few years of use, they were already showing signs of rot, despite having been coated with epoxy. Cpes may have slowed the process... But no doubt fully encapsulating them in glass (not just resin) would have been the best at prolonging them. Probably overkill for seat frames, but not a floor!

I think that if you rebuild with wood, you need to take all necessary precautions to prevent water intrusion into the structural members... They're not going to breathe if they're coated in glass on one side and cpes'd on the other. Keeping water out by sealing them as best you can and avoiding drilling holes, then keeping water away (no foam) is your best chance at avoiding future rot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 9:17am
As I understand your thinking I don’t understand the logic.
If the CEPS is on the bottom of the wood to seal the wood to keep moisture from wicking up into it how is it going to allow the moisture to drain through?
Mold does not need liquid water to start just moisture. Condensations, humidity, water all which the underneath of our floors are subjected to most of the year will promote the growth of mold and rot.
My thoughts are if you cover the wood with a coating of glass then the mold spores can’t invaded the wood pores which promotes rot. I guess we won’t know which way is the best way to skin this cat for another 25 years or so when these resurrected boats get gutted again.
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iplan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iplan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2014 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

FYI. For what it's worth, I've seen plywood delaminate when not at least coated on the underside. I don't think cpes will stop it. I use cpes and a thin layer of glass, make sure you seal the edges good also.


I agree wrap the whole thing in glass even the sides. Most of the constant moisture is underneath that's where the rot starts.



Are we sure about this? I thought that every layer of fiberglass was a potential bond that could be compromised?


When I did mine earlier this summer, I just CPES'd the bottom 3 or 4 times. My reasoning was according to what I'd seen here: that "if" the water gets through to top of the wood, fiberglassing the underside would trap it there, and cause the rot to begin at the bottom ~ where it was trapped....

I also did little drainage holes ~ where the ribs connect to the secondary stringers ~ so that any trapped water would go to the back of the boat and into the bilge.... as long as the boat of the boat is tilted up.... then once it's all in the bilge, lower the nose and drain it out the drain plug....

85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014.
Exterior painted June 2015.
The Trailer is next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2014 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by captbob626 captbob626 wrote:

FYI. For what it's worth, I've seen plywood delaminate when not at least coated on the underside. I don't think cpes will stop it. I use cpes and a thin layer of glass, make sure you seal the edges good also.


I agree wrap the whole thing in glass even the sides. Most of the constant moisture is underneath that's where the rot starts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2014 at 8:09pm
I haven't updated lately, but I got most of the ribs cut, sealed, and glued in. I also started on the back portion of the floor. I cpes-ed it yesterday and will start glassing it this week along with cutting out the floor for the front.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captbob626 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2014 at 12:43pm
FYI. For what it's worth, I've seen plywood delaminate when not at least coated on the underside. I don't think cpes will stop it. I use cpes and a thin layer of glass, make sure you seal the edges good also.
Bob Meimbresse
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2014 at 10:28am
Okay cool, thanks guys. Im putting in another order today and wanted to make sure I ordered the right stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2014 at 11:02pm
I know it is cheating, but epoxy resin has enough working time to put down 2 layers of cloth in same layup, wetting in between of course. Make sure any seams are not lined up with the other layer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iplan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2014 at 10:23pm
The fan of Overkill in me says, "2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth."

Personally, I would not use a single layer of fiberglass on anything.... just seems like a simple way to repeat the whole process.... I mean, you've done all the hard work at this point ~ an additional layer or two or three of glass is just going to make it that much better.

85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014.
Exterior painted June 2015.
The Trailer is next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2014 at 7:44pm
If I step up to like a 7.5 ounce fiberglass cloth would I only need one layer? or is it better to go with 2 layers of like a 4 ounce?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iplan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2014 at 4:46pm
I use 3/4" plywood..... I believe in Overkill.

I did not cover the part of the floor that is faces the bottom of the boat with anything except CPES. My thought was that a layer of fiberglass on the bottom would trap water in the wood ~ if water ever entered from the top....

I went with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth connecting the hull wall top of the plywood, and then down over the exposed secondary stringers and finally onto the little pocket between the secondary & primary stringers.

Then I put a layer of biax mat that tied the floor to the hull wall (as I wanted that bond as strong as possible).
85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014.
Exterior painted June 2015.
The Trailer is next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2014 at 3:57pm
Yeah I bought the 3/4" at the local lumber store when they were having a 15% off sale but if you think that's too much I would gladly get some 1/2". They are having another sale for labor day. And my wife has a list of stuff for me to make out of the 3/4" so it would not be going to waste lol.

What ounce glass would you suggest to do the flooring?   And how many layers?

Thanks for the imput
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2014 at 11:50pm
Nice work! Brings back memories...
One tip that was suggested to me was attaching wood blocks under my plywood floor where the screws for the seats attach. That give more than just the plywood for the screws to bite into. Cpes is good stuff. Fill screw holes with it also,then 5200. Hope this helps. Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2014 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by wade_ab wade_ab wrote:

I bought some 3/4 plywood that ill glass down. I didnt want to go back with foam. After I glass down the secondaries im going to build all the perpendicular supports for the plywood. Then I guess ill have to start figuring out the bulk head stuff and all the fresh air vents. My boat didnt have a bunch of stuff hooked up when I got it so ill have to do some research and see what all needs to be done.

Good call on the no foam. I'm in faver of it. The 3/4" is overkill but simply adds more weight. Don't for get to glass the bottom side of the ply. It does not need to be a heavy weight glass cloth. Use the CPES treatment first on the ply especially the edges.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2014 at 4:24pm
I bought some 3/4 plywood that ill glass down. I didnt want to go back with foam. After I glass down the secondaries im going to build all the perpendicular supports for the plywood. Then I guess ill have to start figuring out the bulk head stuff and all the fresh air vents. My boat didnt have a bunch of stuff hooked up when I got it so ill have to do some research and see what all needs to be done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iplan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2014 at 1:26pm
Awesome work ~~~ Things are coming together nicely, I'd say. Brings back memories!

Are you going back with a fiberglass over foam floor, or a fiberglassed floor?
85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014.
Exterior painted June 2015.
The Trailer is next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2014 at 10:50am
I haven't updated in a while, I test fitted the motor and had to make some adjustments to the stringer height. I cut and glassed my secondaries together with mat and epoxy, glued them down with a thick epoxy and Aerosil-Cabosil mixture, then I smoothed the bottom out with fairing compound. This weekend I plan to glass them in with my cloth strips.






Im slowly getting there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2014 at 5:16pm
Thats a good idea, I have been trying to be careful but I have already spilled a little epoxy on the back. I have to sand, prime, and paint soon so no use in adding more sanding than necessary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iplan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2014 at 4:00pm
Hey great job so far.... One thing I'd do before I went any further is to cover the top of the boat ~~~~ down the sides, etc....

I've got dozens of tiny fingerprints (epoxy) that I still have yet to wetsand off my gelcoat.

A couple of sheets of plastic and a bit of tape would have saved me a huge cosmetic headache...

Also ~ I dig the oly plates ~~~~ exactly what I used....
85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014.
Exterior painted June 2015.
The Trailer is next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wade_ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2014 at 3:36pm
I got the passenger side stringers pulled out, hull grinded, and new primary stuck in over the weekend. Hopefully tonight I can get the bottom of the stringer smoothed out with some fairing compound and tomorrow I can glass them in.
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Here are some pics from last weekend

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Got the right side primary stuck in over the weekend. I made a thick paste out of the fairing compound and used a spoon to smooth it out. Once it got firm I wetted it all down with some epoxy and laid out a 4 inch strip of bi-axial wetted it and rolled out the bubbles. Once it got firm I wetted it all again and laid out a 8 inch strip of bi-axial and wetted and rolled. Pictures to come, there is some forum error going on right now
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