1988 Ski Nautique Rebuild |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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Posted: October-06-2014 at 1:09pm |
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Different hull, but on mine, the blower one hose (suction side) that just winds up towards the bottom of the engine, under the doghouse. That's where the fumes would wind up, so that's where it needs to suck from.
The output (blow side) winds up going out towards the top of the stern. The intakes, on the bow, allow fresh air to be pulled into the doghouse from the vaccume created by the blower or pushed from forward movement of the boat while under way. They would have ducting that allows air to get towards the bilge, but I don't believe they would ever be connected directly to the blower. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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This weekend I got the two back deck sections completely fiberglassed and the bottom side of the mid front section glassed. I got one of the back pieces glued down.
Can anyone tell me what hoses connect to these inlets. Or they could be outlets? Either way, I cant figure out what hoses to connect to what. My boat has one intake hole on the left and two intake holes on the driver side. There are on two inlets/outlets on the blower motor so I need guidance. Thanks |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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do you have to use a hard pass through or can you just run the flex pvc through the cut outs in the wood and seal it up?
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21113 |
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Flex PVC works very well for that exact reason.
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Thanks man, yeah I completely forgot about the battery cables. I really want to use something flexable for the vents, I think it will save alot of time if I can connect some flexy stuff somehow.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21113 |
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Either mat or cloth would be fine... Cloth will go a lot quicker and cheaper as it's easier to cut and soaks up a LOT less resin. Your call!
The size of the holes depends on what materials you use for vent hoses and conduit. Original vents were 3". 2.5" PVC is an oddball size but is 2-7/8" OD. I'd use 3" at a minimum for the conduit, 4" if you can fit it. The last hole you are forgetting is the conduit running to the battery box for the cables. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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I got the front piece cut out last night, this turned out to be a chore. Lots of in and out of the boat.
When fiber-glassing the bottoms of the deck boards, is fiberglass mat sufficient or do I need to use cloth? Im also stuck on what size holes to cut in my bulkhead board. I know there are 3 holes for the blower/vent lines and one for the drain to the battery box. And there needs to be a big one for the cables but I keep seeing a 6th hole that seems to be about 2.5 inches in other people's builds. What is this one for? All of my stuff was rotted and trashed and none of my vents were hooked up when I bought the boat so I dont have a good reference. |
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5693 |
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I have also removed many pieces of what used to be marine plywood covered on both sides with west system epoxy and cloth (no CPES), that had turned into complete and total mush, rot would start at screw holes and move its way over. Of course these were not well taken care of boat by any reasonable standards, but the life of the costly repair was less than 5 years. If you are going to use an untreated wood in a boat do whatever you can to keep the water sealed out, everywhere you can. Then do everything you can to keep the boat dry.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21113 |
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No, we are smart enough to know now! Alan rebuilt the delux wood seat bases in his 81, and after just a few years of use, they were already showing signs of rot, despite having been coated with epoxy. Cpes may have slowed the process... But no doubt fully encapsulating them in glass (not just resin) would have been the best at prolonging them. Probably overkill for seat frames, but not a floor!
I think that if you rebuild with wood, you need to take all necessary precautions to prevent water intrusion into the structural members... They're not going to breathe if they're coated in glass on one side and cpes'd on the other. Keeping water out by sealing them as best you can and avoiding drilling holes, then keeping water away (no foam) is your best chance at avoiding future rot. |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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As I understand your thinking I don’t understand the logic.
If the CEPS is on the bottom of the wood to seal the wood to keep moisture from wicking up into it how is it going to allow the moisture to drain through? Mold does not need liquid water to start just moisture. Condensations, humidity, water all which the underneath of our floors are subjected to most of the year will promote the growth of mold and rot. My thoughts are if you cover the wood with a coating of glass then the mold spores can’t invaded the wood pores which promotes rot. I guess we won’t know which way is the best way to skin this cat for another 25 years or so when these resurrected boats get gutted again. |
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iplan
Senior Member Joined: April-19-2010 Location: Lake Murry SC Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Are we sure about this? I thought that every layer of fiberglass was a potential bond that could be compromised? When I did mine earlier this summer, I just CPES'd the bottom 3 or 4 times. My reasoning was according to what I'd seen here: that "if" the water gets through to top of the wood, fiberglassing the underside would trap it there, and cause the rot to begin at the bottom ~ where it was trapped.... I also did little drainage holes ~ where the ribs connect to the secondary stringers ~ so that any trapped water would go to the back of the boat and into the bilge.... as long as the boat of the boat is tilted up.... then once it's all in the bilge, lower the nose and drain it out the drain plug.... |
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85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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I agree wrap the whole thing in glass even the sides. Most of the constant moisture is underneath that's where the rot starts. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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I haven't updated lately, but I got most of the ribs cut, sealed, and glued in. I also started on the back portion of the floor. I cpes-ed it yesterday and will start glassing it this week along with cutting out the floor for the front.
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captbob626
Senior Member Joined: September-12-2013 Location: Cape MAy,NJ Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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FYI. For what it's worth, I've seen plywood delaminate when not at least coated on the underside. I don't think cpes will stop it. I use cpes and a thin layer of glass, make sure you seal the edges good also.
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Bob Meimbresse
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Okay cool, thanks guys. Im putting in another order today and wanted to make sure I ordered the right stuff.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I know it is cheating, but epoxy resin has enough working time to put down 2 layers of cloth in same layup, wetting in between of course. Make sure any seams are not lined up with the other layer.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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iplan
Senior Member Joined: April-19-2010 Location: Lake Murry SC Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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The fan of Overkill in me says, "2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth."
Personally, I would not use a single layer of fiberglass on anything.... just seems like a simple way to repeat the whole process.... I mean, you've done all the hard work at this point ~ an additional layer or two or three of glass is just going to make it that much better. |
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85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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If I step up to like a 7.5 ounce fiberglass cloth would I only need one layer? or is it better to go with 2 layers of like a 4 ounce?
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iplan
Senior Member Joined: April-19-2010 Location: Lake Murry SC Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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I use 3/4" plywood..... I believe in Overkill.
I did not cover the part of the floor that is faces the bottom of the boat with anything except CPES. My thought was that a layer of fiberglass on the bottom would trap water in the wood ~ if water ever entered from the top.... I went with 2 layers of fiberglass cloth connecting the hull wall top of the plywood, and then down over the exposed secondary stringers and finally onto the little pocket between the secondary & primary stringers. Then I put a layer of biax mat that tied the floor to the hull wall (as I wanted that bond as strong as possible). |
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85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Yeah I bought the 3/4" at the local lumber store when they were having a 15% off sale but if you think that's too much I would gladly get some 1/2". They are having another sale for labor day. And my wife has a list of stuff for me to make out of the 3/4" so it would not be going to waste lol.
What ounce glass would you suggest to do the flooring? And how many layers? Thanks for the imput |
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79TiqueRebuild
Senior Member Joined: January-21-2009 Location: Kansas City, Mo Status: Offline Points: 238 |
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Nice work! Brings back memories...
One tip that was suggested to me was attaching wood blocks under my plywood floor where the screws for the seats attach. That give more than just the plywood for the screws to bite into. Cpes is good stuff. Fill screw holes with it also,then 5200. Hope this helps. Monty |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Good call on the no foam. I'm in faver of it. The 3/4" is overkill but simply adds more weight. Don't for get to glass the bottom side of the ply. It does not need to be a heavy weight glass cloth. Use the CPES treatment first on the ply especially the edges. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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I bought some 3/4 plywood that ill glass down. I didnt want to go back with foam. After I glass down the secondaries im going to build all the perpendicular supports for the plywood. Then I guess ill have to start figuring out the bulk head stuff and all the fresh air vents. My boat didnt have a bunch of stuff hooked up when I got it so ill have to do some research and see what all needs to be done.
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iplan
Senior Member Joined: April-19-2010 Location: Lake Murry SC Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Awesome work ~~~ Things are coming together nicely, I'd say. Brings back memories!
Are you going back with a fiberglass over foam floor, or a fiberglassed floor? |
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85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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I haven't updated in a while, I test fitted the motor and had to make some adjustments to the stringer height. I cut and glassed my secondaries together with mat and epoxy, glued them down with a thick epoxy and Aerosil-Cabosil mixture, then I smoothed the bottom out with fairing compound. This weekend I plan to glass them in with my cloth strips.
Im slowly getting there. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Thats a good idea, I have been trying to be careful but I have already spilled a little epoxy on the back. I have to sand, prime, and paint soon so no use in adding more sanding than necessary.
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iplan
Senior Member Joined: April-19-2010 Location: Lake Murry SC Status: Offline Points: 201 |
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Hey great job so far.... One thing I'd do before I went any further is to cover the top of the boat ~~~~ down the sides, etc....
I've got dozens of tiny fingerprints (epoxy) that I still have yet to wetsand off my gelcoat. A couple of sheets of plastic and a bit of tape would have saved me a huge cosmetic headache... Also ~ I dig the oly plates ~~~~ exactly what I used.... |
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85 Ski Nautique 2001.
Stringer replacement job completed July 3 2014. Exterior painted June 2015. The Trailer is next. |
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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I got the passenger side stringers pulled out, hull grinded, and new primary stuck in over the weekend. Hopefully tonight I can get the bottom of the stringer smoothed out with some fairing compound and tomorrow I can glass them in.
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Here are some pics from last weekend
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wade_ab
Newbie Joined: September-10-2013 Location: Bmt Texas Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Got the right side primary stuck in over the weekend. I made a thick paste out of the fairing compound and used a spoon to smooth it out. Once it got firm I wetted it all down with some epoxy and laid out a 4 inch strip of bi-axial wetted it and rolled out the bubbles. Once it got firm I wetted it all again and laid out a 8 inch strip of bi-axial and wetted and rolled. Pictures to come, there is some forum error going on right now
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